J mod kit

[tallpaul]

I have been looking at the vendors on the website and others threads on here for a j mod kit. Does the valve body kit from BCE automotive have the j mod done to it? I e-mailed them, but I decided to ask you guys anyway. If not, does anyone offer one with everything done to it?

[fastblackmerc]

I have been looking at the vendors on the website and others threads on here for a j mod kit. Does the valve body kit from BCE automotive have the j mod done to it? I e-mailed them, but I decided to ask you guys anyway. If not, does anyone offer one with everything done to it?

There really isn't a kit. Just drills and the instructions.

[03sport007]

I have been looking at the vendors on the website and others threads on here for a j mod kit. Does the valve body kit from BCE automotive have the j mod done to it? I e-mailed them, but I decided to ask you guys anyway. If not, does anyone offer one with everything done to it?

I bought a modified spaperator plate from Dirty Dog Perfomance. If I had to do it over again I'd buy a new separator plate and modify that one. Their relatively cheap.

I have a BCE rebuilt transmission with the modifications he does to the valve body. Absolutely love it. Not sure what he does but I like it better then my old Trans with just a jmod.

[ctrlraven]

Here is the kit from Dirty Dog Performance
http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/transmission-rebuild-kits-and-parts/aod/aode/4r70w/4r70w-plate-style-shift-kit/prod_62.html

[FrankJAG]

Not a bad price!

[Shaijack]

You will love the feeling of the shifts. I do.

[tallpaul]

Thanks for the link. You guys are great about helping me spend more money.

[Adam12]

I did a trans-go shift kit and I love it. Shifts are firm and when I dial in the shifts with a tuner its great.

[tallpaul]

I did a trans-go shift kit and I love it. Shifts are firm and when I dial in the shifts with a tuner its great.

How do you dial in the shifts with a tuner. My tuner came from alternative auto and I don't think it can do that.

[bugsyc]

Best way to get her done? B&M or Dirty Dog valve body kits or do the actual original J Mod???

[RF Overlord]

Which is more important to you, time or money?

[justbob]

Not a bad price!

Are you kidding? What a joke! All that is is a predrilled $30 plate, two $1.50 gaskets, and cheap filter.

Maybe I should sell some kits LOL

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[bugsyc]

Are you kidding? What a joke! All that is is a predrilled $30 plate, two $1.50 gaskets, and cheap filter.

Maybe I should sell some kits LOL

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OK,so I think you are saying forget buying one of the kits(B&M or DirtyDog) and do the original J-mod???

[RF Overlord]

That's what I was trying to imply, too.

All buying a prepackaged kit gains you is not having to drill the holes yourself, which is super easy.

[burt ragio]

I did a trans-go shift kit and I love it. Shifts are firm and when I dial in the shifts with a tuner its great.

May want to check some old posts on the tras go kit & its draw backs. If I remember it leads to trans faliure. Maybe some one can post up the trend.

[Odinson]

May want to check some old posts on the tras go kit & its draw backs. If I remember it leads to trans faliure. Maybe some one can post up the trend.

You're talking about shift kits not the jmod right? It's on my list.

[RF Overlord]

Jerry Wroblewski, the "father" of the 4R70W, wrote an article explaining why TransGo shift kits are...um...less than ideal. He writes about TransGo specifically, so I'm not sure his advice applies to ALL shift kits, but in any case, doing the J-Mod (developed by, and named after, him) is the preferred way to go.

It used to be on the Modular Depot site, but since they were bought out and the site was closed down, it's disappeared. I have a copy at home and will post it as a sticky when I find it.

[justbob]

Jerry Wroblewski, the "father" of the 4R70W, wrote an article explaining why TransGo shift kits are...um...less than ideal. He writes about TransGo specifically, so I'm not sure his advice applies to ALL shift kits, but in any case, doing the J-Mod (developed by, and named after, him) is the preferred way to go.

It used to be on the Modular Depot site, but since they were bought out and the site was closed down, it's disappeared. I have a copy at home and will post it as a sticky when I find it.

Bob, with allll this Jmod talk lately, maybe the directions themselves should become a sticky.

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[tallpaul]

I agree, posting directions and pictures would simplify things for the j-mod.

[FrankJAG]

There are a couple of posts on crownvic.net, in the BOK area IIRC. Do a search you'll find it.

[justbob]

There are a couple of posts on crownvic.net, in the BOK area IIRC. Do a search you'll find it.

No matter the resources, no thanks.

That's why we should just sticky it here with the adults.

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[MM2004]

No matter the resources, no thanks.

That's why we should just sticky it here with the adults.

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Bob,

I have a pretty decent camera.

Just sayin...

:D

Mike.

[FrankJAG]

No matter the resources, no thanks.

That's why we should just sticky it here with the adults.

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Sorry, just trying to be of assistance :confused:

[justbob]

Sorry, just trying to be of assistance :confused:
It's cool man, I just didn't like the attitude of some regarding MM owners being stuck up. I did meet some very cool peeps over there, but decided best to leave.

[RF Overlord]

For copyright reasons, I can't simply copy and paste from the CVN BOK...if you refuse to go there, then the TCCOA site has the J-mod instructions as well.

[MyBlackBeasts]

For copyright reasons, I can't simply copy and paste from the CVN BOK...if you refuse to go there, then the TCCOA site has the J-mod instructions as well.

^^^TCCOA - yep. Saved to my computer & printed also.^^^ Excellent resource & instructions.

[justbob]

For copyright reasons, I can't simply copy and paste from the CVN BOK...if you refuse to go there, then the TCCOA site has the J-mod instructions as well.

Didn't think of that infringement. Stay tuned, I'll have my own write up soon. I did one today for ChiStallion and started getting good shots, but too many interuptions, and lack of time halted the 2nd half. I will get the rest of the pics on Mike's car in a few weeks or someone else's maybe sooner. I picked up 8 sets of gaskets today from all the interest and new members lately.

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[risky]

Hey justbob I'm interested on the j-mod. Let me know when you could do the j-mod on my marauder

[justbob]

Hey justbob I'm interested on the j-mod. Let me know when you could do the j-mod on my marauder

Tomorrow? :D

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[risky]

Tomorrow? :D

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Let's do it. Ohh wait that sound kind of dirty. Lol. Let me know I'm free tomorrow.

[vegasmarauder]

I went through my old stuff and found a write up that I edited with some of my own observations. I also uploaded some pictures into my member gallery (its public) I had from various sources over the years on the J-Mod. This may help until someone wants to put it all together.

Gallery Link: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=666

here's the text portion;
PERFORMING THE J-MOD YOURSELF…• Step I:
1. Remove the transmission pan by loosening the 14, 10MM pan bolts.
 You’re best bet is to use a shallow 10MM socket (anything larger will not fit between the cross member and the rear of the pan).
 Place a large drain pan (a plastic cement mixing pan from Home Deport was perfect) under the trans.
2. Drop the pan
 Remove the pan bolts on the FAR edge away from you. The pan will start to tilt down and the fluid will run out that side. Hold it up and remove the last pan bolt on your side and then tip it away from you into the drain pan.
 4 - 5 items may be in the pan; a little yellow plastic plunger that looks like a spinning top (discard it, it was a temporary plug for the filler tube from the factory), possibly the 2-3 brown accumulator spring (set aside it does not go back in), a metal base for the 2-3 spring (save), possibly the 2 – 3 shift accumulator itself (a larger plunger with a smaller diameter top and larger diameter bottom, and oval shaped filter.
 Remove the filter; remember to pull out the orange rubber grommet as it usually sticks up in the valve body hole.

• Step 2:
1. Remove the valve body
 Prep: layout towels or a canvas under your car, layout a couple of paper towels under the car to set the valve body on later, layout a couple of paper towels on your workbench to receive the valve body once it is removed.
2. Start by removing the black plastic harness from the valve body. It snaps into place in 3-4 locations and is removed with a slight tug at each connection point. Use a right angle pry tool and GENTLY pry away from the valve body and each point where the harness is connected. This should be at the pressure valve, shift valves and where it goes up to the outer case. If you break this, it must be replaced.
3. Towards the upper right, remove the 8MM bolt with the rooster comb spring (has a roller attached to it ), make sure to keep the bolt in the hole of the spring as to not lose the orientation of either piece.
4. Adjacent to this is another bolt with a metal bracket that holds the pressure regulator in place, remove this bracket in a like manner. The pressure valve stays in place.
5. Now take a look at the valve body and notice that there are two types of bolts; those with 8MM heads and those with 10MM heads. Do not loosen or remove the 10MM bolts. Look closely at the 8MM heads and you will notice that the ones in the middle section (On the steel plate section) will be a bit longer than those on the periphery. When putting them back, the longer ones must go in the plated section and the shorter ones go around the periphery. DO NOT mix them up !
6. Remove the periphery bolts (using a cordless drill, an a 8MM socket)
7. Note the position of the manual valve. It is the piston looking thing and has a notch in it in which a pin on the detent lever that was under the rooster comb resides.
8. Remove the 8MM bolts in the plated section, all but one in the center most section.
 Now get your drain pan ready as here comes the tranny fluid shower
9. Hold the valve body up and slowly back out the last bolt about a quarter of an inch and wiggle the valve body slightly so that it drops down slightly and tranny fluid starts flowing.
 Let this drain for a few minutes (may be up to 3-4 quarts).
10. Once the fluid has drained, or you get tired of waiting, hold up the valve body and unscrew that last bolt. Hold it firmly and be prepared as it is heavier than it looks and if your car is not jacked up high enough you will have little leverage.
11. Place the valve body in the trans pan and transfer to your workbench, gasket side up.

• Step 3:
Disassembly and Modification.
1. Use an exacto knife or razorblade to lift a corner of the top gasket and remove carefully.
2. Note the orientation of the two reinforcement plates (circles with 4 10MM bolts each)
3. Remove the 4 bolts from each plate with a 10MM socket and place them on a paper towel in the same orientation they were prior to removal. Clean the two plates with carb or brake cleaner.
4. Remove the one 10MM bolt that holds the separator plate in place on its edge.
5. Remove the separator plate and clean with carb or brake cleaner.You may have to scrape off part of the gaskets from the plate. It must be spotless.
6. Drill the holes as prescribed in Jerry’s document (Figure 1)
 Holes #2, #4, #5, #9, #11 – 7/64 drill bit
 Hole #10 – 3/32 drill bit (I have used the same 7/64 bit on this hole with no problems)
7. Deburr your drillings with a sanding stone or take a very large drill bit with it not in the drill turn it manually over the holes to deburr them. They must be smooth.
8. Remove the remaining gaskets off the valve body
9. Make sure the eight check balls are still in the correct places. If you did not tilt the valve body or turn it over they should still be in the correct positions. Double check.
10. Place the new gasket on the valve body (IMPORTANT! On some gaskets, the hole for hole #4 is not big enough for the new size drilled hole and partially covers it. Place the gasket on the separator plate and hold it up. If you see gasket material covering the hole, trim it away with a razor blade just enough to uncover the hole. You can see how much room you have by looking at the side walls of the valve body casting at hole #4. If the gasket material covers the hole, it may break off and get stuck somewhere else in the valve body.
11. Clean the separator plate and reinstall
12. Install the new top gasket (the one with the big round holes)
13. Reinstall the circular reinforcement plates and the single plate retaining bolt (torque to 90 inch pounds)
14. Clean the entire valve body paying attention to any electrical connectors
15. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the electrical connectors.
• It is now ready for re-installation.

• Step 4:
1. Under the car; clean the transmission internals with carb or brake cleaner, paying attention to any electrical connectors.
2. Put upward pressure on the 1-2 accumulator cover and use snap ring/retaining ring pliers remove the snap ring from the 1-2 shift accumulator (the round hole on the drivers side front corner towards the front of the car)
 Watch out as this ring holds the cover with a spring behind it that is under considerable tension. I used a 3/8 socket extension to hold the plate up while removing the ring.
3. Remove the yellow spring. Do not go any further into the accumulator.
4. Replace the cover and the snap ring.
5. Apply dielectric grease to any electrical connectors.
6. Clean the tiny trapezoidal/oval filter screen that came out of the valve body case casting during disassembly and apply a small amount of Vaseline on the black plastic (top) and place it back up in the tranny. There is only one place
for it to go towards the rear right corner. If you look up you will see a space the shape of the black plastic top (a rectangular shape).
7. If the 2-3 shift accumulator has fallen out during the valve body removal, place it and the spring plate back into the 2-3 shift accumulator hole. The accumulator goes in small end top, large end bottom. Press it into the hole slightly. Then install the old round spring base; one side is relatively flat and the other has a point; the point goes down. You may have to bend the three tabs out on this piece ever so slightly to get it to stay up in the hole.

• Step 5:
1. Now reinstall the valve body.
 Pay close attention to the manual valve (piston looking thing) remember the pin on the detent arm must go just behind the head of the piston in the groove.
2. Hold the valve body up and place one of the long bolts as close to the center as possible.
3. Reinstall the rooster comb spring and metal bracket in their respective locations.
4. You can now start the remaining bolts by hand; just a few turns to make sure they are
seated properly and not cross threaded. They all should thread in almost all the way easily.
5. Set all bolts down snug; using the included bolt pattern diagram at the end of this document (Figure 2)
6. Now torque all bolts to 90 inch pounds using the included bolt pattern document (Figure 2).
7. Reinstall the black plastic electrical connector, snap it firmly into place and make sure that each contact point is seated and secure.
8. Install a new tranny filter (coat the seal with a little tranny fluid).

• Step 6:
1. Clean the tranny pan inside and out. The magnet inside comes off and may have a lot of fine metal fiber attached to it. Clean it all off thoroughly.
2. Reattach the transmission fluid pan (using the original multi-use gasket unless it is damaged).
3. You can now start the remaining 10MM bolts by hand; just a few turns to make sure they are seated properly and not cross threaded.
4. Set all the pan bolts snug.
5. Now torque all bolts to 120 inch pounds. Go around the pan a few times to be sure.

• Step 7:
1. Fill the transmission through the dip stick tube with about 5 quarts of Mercon V.
2. Hold the brake, start your engine, move the shifter through the gear selections, and allow your car to warm up while checking for anything out of the ordinary. The first few times it will shift soft as all the air comes out of the valve body.
3. Check for leaks and continue to top off the fluid until full (about 3-4 more quarts).
4. Continue to run it through the gears after each quart and then lower the car and confirm your good work!

[fastblackmerc]

Here is a link with pictures...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CFYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.crownvic. net%2Ftech%2F4R70Wnotes.pdf&ei=jATnT5nYE4bS2AW6_ZTbCQ&usg=AFQjCNHfTI52jKcSIXzITz9Hoo 1MuVbVDg

A lot of good transmission articles here:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html

[burt ragio]

You're talking about shift kits not the jmod right? It's on my list.

Talking about the Trans go kit.

[fastblackmerc]

Talking about the Trans go kit.

I've heard that the Trans-Go kit will mess up the trans. Better to go with the J-mod.

[tallpaul]

If you already have a tune and you do the J-mod, will you have to get another tune? Mine is from Alternative Auto.

[justbob]

If you already have a tune and you do the J-mod, will you have to get another tune? Mine is from Alternative Auto.

Only if you do not care for the shifting and the tune is fully locked.

Other options, reinstall the springs or lighter springs.

I'd just call Lidio and tell him you paid good money, please unlock the shift pressures.

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[risky]

If the tune is from Lidio it's probably locked unless you told him to not lock it when you bought it. When I ordered mine from Lidio it was locked. I called him and asked him to unlock the parameters and I had to send it back to him

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Let's do it. Ohh wait that sound kind of dirty. Lol. Let me know I'm free tomorrow.

Yeah, there's no waaaaay that can be dirty...:lol:

I wish I was closer to you Bob...I'd be there tomorrow!

Damn, I guess there really isn't a way to NOT sound dirty when talking to Bob....:lol:

[stevengerard]

Do the 04's need this since they have the newer trans?

[RF Overlord]

Any 4R70W or 4R75W will benefit from a J-mod...

[Baaad GN]

03-04 makes no difference they still need it!

[vkirkend]

Here is the kit from Dirty Dog Performance
http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/transmission-rebuild-kits-and-parts/aod/aode/4r70w/4r70w-plate-style-shift-kit/prod_62.html

Is this what you did to your car? Seems a bit steep for just drilling a few holes in the plate......

[MyBlackBeasts]

Competition plate (thicker), 2 gaskets, new filter & some fluid. $50ish - depending on your choice of fluid.

Some time spent under the car, drill a few holes, remove or shorten springs (depending on what you want for shifting characteristics - remove for me).

All done.

Doing mine this weekend hopefully. :D