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tallpaul
06-02-2012, 09:29 PM
Can anybody talk me through a whole brake system flush? Since I have replaced all the brake pads, rear discs and am installing the TCE brake lines, I figured that now would be a great time to flush the system.

sailsmen
06-03-2012, 05:18 AM
You can buy a kit or make one. There are several available over the internet.

Spectragod
06-03-2012, 05:48 AM
Can anybody talk me through a whole brake system flush? Since I have replaced all the brake pads, rear discs and am installing the TCE brake lines, I figured that now would be a great time to flush the system.


Here ya go, super easy to use (you will need an air compressor for this to work though).

http://www.cejn.us/en-us/Download/vacula/

There are other systems out there, or you can just gravity bleed them.

guspech750
06-03-2012, 07:42 AM
I just use my daughter as cheap child labor to push on the brake pedal for me.


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SC Cheesehead
06-03-2012, 09:23 AM
PM 03mmmonroe, he can walk you through it.

fastblackmerc
06-03-2012, 09:57 AM
I'd recommend gravity bleeding.

The one thing you do not want is air in the system, especially the ABS pump.

You'll need 4 bottles, tubing that fits the bleeder screws tightly and new brake fluid.

Connect the tubing to the bleeder screws at one end, the other end goes into the bottle. Do this to all 4 wheels or 1 wheel at a time.

Open the bleeder screw(s) and take off the brake fluid tank cap.

Fill the tank close to the top and put the cap back on (this is important as DOT 3 & 4 fluid will absorb moisture).

Never let the tank run dry.

Keep adding fluid until it comes out clear / clean in the bottle, close the bleeder screw and continue to the next wheel.

Rockettman
06-04-2012, 04:46 AM
^^^ isn't there something about "starting at the furthest wheel from the booster, then work backwards"? (I think I recall that from years ago - maybe its not as important as once thought).

fastblackmerc
06-04-2012, 04:55 AM
^^^ isn't there something about "starting at the furthest wheel from the booster, then work backwards"? (I think I recall that from years ago - maybe its not as important as once thought).

I believe that each wheel is it own circuit so the farthest wheel adage doesn't apply.

batmanone
06-26-2012, 06:01 PM
My brake were changed and bleed but my pedal is soft any answers

fastblackmerc
06-26-2012, 06:17 PM
My brake were changed and bleed but my pedal is soft any answers

Air still in the lines... bleed them again.

steve fox
06-27-2012, 08:54 PM
gravity bleed is even easier than described above. Remove the reservoir cap, open all four bleeders. Sure there will be some BF on the floor so if you don't want to mop up a qt of BF do it in the dirt or gravel lot. Anyway keep the reservoir full with a fresh quart of DOT 3 while you drink a cool one. Should take 10 or 15 min. Do not start the engine and stay away from the brake pedal. Once the qt of BF is nearly gone, shut the bleeders while making sure the reservoir stays topped off. Screw the lid on the reservoir and head to the car wash to rinse the BF from the tires. Done.

fastblackmerc
06-28-2012, 12:45 AM
gravity bleed is even easier than described above. Remove the reservoir cap, open all four bleeders. Sure there will be some BF on the floor so if you don't want to mop up a qt of BF do it in the dirt or gravel lot. Anyway keep the reservoir full with a fresh quart of DOT 3 while you drink a cool one. Should take 10 or 15 min. Do not start the engine and stay away from the brake pedal. Once the qt of BF is nearly gone, shut the bleeders while making sure the reservoir stays topped off. Screw the lid on the reservoir and head to the car wash to rinse the BF from the tires. Done.

Let's be a little environmentally responsible here.....

So you don't make a mess and destroy the environment, connect some tight fitting hoses to the bleeder screws. Put the other end in empty soda or water bottles. When the fluid coming out of the hoses is clear, close the bleeder screws.... no mopping, no trip to the car wash.

Mebot
06-28-2012, 02:25 PM
Let's be a little environmentally responsible here.....

Lol says an owner of a heavy 4 dr v8 premium gas drinking monster of a vehicle :p

Just ribbing ya

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Rockettman
07-18-2012, 08:31 AM
I'd recommend gravity bleeding.

The one thing you do not want is air in the system, especially the ABS pump.

You'll need 4 bottles, tubing that fits the bleeder screws tightly and new brake fluid.

Connect the tubing to the bleeder screws at one end, the other end goes into the bottle. Do this to all 4 wheels or 1 wheel at a time.

Open the bleeder screw(s) and take off the brake fluid tank cap.

Fill the tank close to the top and put the cap back on (this is important as DOT 3 & 4 fluid will absorb moisture).

Never let the tank run dry.

Keep adding fluid until it comes out clear / clean in the bottle, close the bleeder screw and continue to the next wheel.

I just can't remember...after you push the pedal down; the fluid comes out into the empty bottle; don't you have to close the bleeder valve again before letting the pedal up? Again...not commenting - just can't remember. :geezer:

babbage
07-18-2012, 01:02 PM
I just can't remember...after you push the pedal down; the fluid comes out into the empty bottle; don't you have to close the bleeder valve again before letting the pedal up? Again...not commenting - just can't remember. :geezer:

Yes, but gravity is easier. To the OP you missed your chance when you put the new lines on! My lines were pretty much gushing when disconnected from the caliper. Leave the master cyl cap off and when it gets down 1/2 top it off, then repeat for each wheel.

ctrlraven
07-18-2012, 01:52 PM
When using a bottle make sure to pour some new BF in the bottle so the end of the hose is not openly exposed to the air.

I've manually bleed mine and had Ford abs cycle my brakes and my pedal is still soft. I guess it the brake master cylinder.