View Full Version : How to remove an overtorqued lock nut.
GetMeMyStogie
06-14-2012, 10:17 PM
I went to put my summer wheels on a couple of weeks ago. I got through the first 3 just fine when I discovered that the fellas who installed my new winter tires (on my old winter rims) thought it might be funny to torque the lug nuts on one of my wheels like it was a semi truck or something!:mad2:
It took a lot of leaning on the breaker bar to get the 4 regular nuts off. The 5th nut was actually a McGard lock nut (which I did try to remove before any of the other nuts, like you're supposed to) but I ended up distorting the lock nut removal tool (key) to the point where any amount of torque applied to it caused it to slip off the lock nut. I tried for over an hour, but just made the key and the lock nut itself worse. But nothing actually broke - yet.
I did eventually come up with a way to get the lock nut off. I took pictures, since otherwise it didn't happen. Of course, I took pictures after the trick worked, so what you'll see is a reasonable facsimile of the actions that took place...
First, take one rounded off McGard lock nut key one distorted lock nut and put them together...
GetMeMyStogie
06-14-2012, 10:22 PM
...continued
Then, take the manual jack from the trunk of the car, open it up a bit, put a 1/2" drive extension through the hole in the lift plate of the jack and then put the 13/16" socket onto the extension:
GetMeMyStogie
06-14-2012, 10:32 PM
Next, park the car very close to a sturdy wall.
Put the jack-enabled socket onto the lock nut key, and 'lift' the jack to the point where it puts enough pressure against the lock nut to both hold the jack suspended between the wall and the cars wheel, and allow you to apply enough torque to the socket to break the lock loose. My sidewall on my tall winter tire (70 series) was pushed way over to the point where I was afraid the tire might pop off the rim!
Once you're there, grab as long a handle as you can find - I used the 36" or so handle from my 2 1/2" ton floor jack - put it over the breaker bar handle and lean on it until you hear a loud crack.
Okay, so the first loud crack I heard was my long breaker bar breaking :( Luckily, I have a shorter, slightly sturdier breaker bar so I tried again. This produced a 2nd loud crack, which was the lock nut finally breaking loose. :D
fastblackmerc
06-15-2012, 05:04 AM
Very ingenious.
I'd be using a different tire shop. Sounds like they installed them with an air wrench instead of by hand. And obviously they didn't use the right torque.
Spectragod
06-15-2012, 06:06 AM
When I have to take a car for tires, I take a torque wrench with me, and watch(i.e, stand over their shoulder), you generally don't win any friends, but my wheels/rotors/studs aren't killed from some jackass with a 3/4" impact(yes, I've seen it), with a 1/2" reducer.
Granddaddy Marq
06-15-2012, 06:07 AM
Great now everybody knows how to steal your rims. In and out in an hour, hour and a half. :lol:
Vortech347
06-15-2012, 08:48 AM
When this happens I either take a cut off wheel, weaken the nut then strike it with a punch to break it. OR hammer an old socket around the outside of the locking nut.
babbage
06-15-2012, 11:09 AM
Shortcut: propane torch, hot things expand. Heat the nuts on wheel for 20 seconds, bet it would have come right off. Still your method is ingenious.
Blackmobile
06-15-2012, 11:16 AM
Another solution to the problem. Tighten the other 4 lung nuts REAL tight, and that way the over tightened lug nut or lock nut will be easier to unscrew.
magindat
06-15-2012, 01:23 PM
Now go get some gorilla lugs with spline locks and never have this problem again.
McGard are soft and can be gotten off with vice grips.
GetMeMyStogie
06-15-2012, 01:57 PM
Now go get some gorilla lugs with spline locks and never have this problem again.
McGard are soft and can be gotten off with vice grips.
I already have a full set lying around. After figuring out about 90 seconds after seeing them and their key for the first time how easy it is for anyone to remove them, I'll stick with Mcgard.
Besides, the problem was the shop, not the locks.
Odinson
06-15-2012, 02:46 PM
Awesome! I will be using this if it ever happens. Thanks.
bugsyc
06-15-2012, 03:28 PM
When the Fastlane mechanic put my wheels back on he said they should be torqued to app.100/ft lbs... Too much? Too little???
GetMeMyStogie
06-15-2012, 04:10 PM
I believe the spec is 80-105 ft-lbs
Black_Noise
06-15-2012, 05:17 PM
i would have never thought of that.... ever, Thats using the noggin
magindat
06-15-2012, 06:34 PM
I already have a full set lying around. After figuring out about 90 seconds after seeing them and their key for the first time how easy it is for anyone to remove them, I'll stick with Mcgard.
Besides, the problem was the shop, not the locks.
They're all easy. Sadly enough.
I like Gorillas because they ALL lock - thus causing a would-be thief more time and effort - and potential of getting caught.
NOTHING is truly secure....
yjmud
06-15-2012, 11:00 PM
locks are only to keep honest people honest!!!
MM2004
06-16-2012, 05:19 AM
When the Fastlane mechanic put my wheels back on he said they should be torqued to app.100/ft lbs... Too much? Too little???
100 ft./lb is good-to-go.
Mike.
fastblackmerc
06-16-2012, 05:29 AM
locks are only to keep honest people honest!!!
That is correct.
I like my Gorillas. Much harder to take off 20 locks vs 4 locks
fastblackmerc
06-16-2012, 05:31 AM
100 ft./lb is good-to-go.
Mike.
Correct. You need to retorque them after 100 miles or so, as with all aluminium wheels.
sailsmen
06-16-2012, 06:49 AM
Don't forget the most effective and yet underutilized tool when all others fail - THE MONKEY WRENCH!
GetMeMyStogie
06-16-2012, 09:26 AM
I still don't see gorilla 'locks' as locks at all. Locks require keys, and a gorilla 'lock' doesn't need a key. That is, every gorilla 'key' can be modified to match any one of their 'locks'. What you have, really, are 20 nuts that use a slightly different tool than the usual 13/16" hex, but anyone can get one. They are akin to the cylindrical keys and locks used on old Kryptonite bike locks - they're unique and look like they should work well, but they really don't.
Honest people don't steal wheels. Crooks do, and they'd have no problem getting/making the needed tool, to remove any gorilla lock without any loud hammering, and without risking damage to the wheels, and taking no more time than removing a simple hex nut.
Stop trying to convince me they're superior protection for my wheels - they're not. Now, if you want to argue that they look better, you may have something.
GetMeMyStogie
06-16-2012, 11:07 AM
The shop manual actually lists the torque as 95 lb-ft. I'm pretty sure it used to be a range, in earlier model years of the MGM.
MM2004
06-16-2012, 11:30 AM
The shop manual actually lists the torque as 95 lb-ft. I'm pretty sure it used to be a range, in earlier model years of the MGM.
Go for 100 ft./lb and call it a day.
You'll be good.
Mike.
Vortech347
06-16-2012, 05:24 PM
Shortcut: propane torch, hot things expand. Heat the nuts on wheel for 20 seconds, bet it would have come right off. Still your method is ingenious.
Problem is you'll screw up the finish on most wheels.
massacre
06-16-2012, 09:09 PM
Last time this happened to me was on my Mustang, dealer used impact.
I shattered the key trying to remove one of the locks.
Ended up welding a spare lugnut onto the lock. Worked like a charm.
BTW I used this stuff, I forget the name.....ice something? It protects from welding heat and spatter. I put some on the wheel and the wheel remained completely unharmed by and welding sparks/spatter/heat.
babbage
06-20-2012, 03:26 PM
Problem is you'll screw up the finish on most wheels.
not if you heat just the nut, low flame, tight cone - with propane.
Chayton
06-20-2012, 06:00 PM
I went to put my summer wheels on a couple of weeks ago. I got through the first 3 just fine when I discovered that the fellas who installed my new winter tires (on my old winter rims) thought it might be funny to torque the lug nuts on one of my wheels like it was a semi truck or something!:mad2:
It took a lot of leaning on the breaker bar to get the 4 regular nuts off. The 5th nut was actually a McGard lock nut (which I did try to remove before any of the other nuts, like you're supposed to) but I ended up distorting the lock nut removal tool (key) to the point where any amount of torque applied to it caused it to slip off the lock nut. I tried for over an hour, but just made the key and the lock nut itself worse. But nothing actually broke - yet.
I did eventually come up with a way to get the lock nut off. I took pictures, since otherwise it didn't happen. Of course, I took pictures after the trick worked, so what you'll see is a reasonable facsimile of the actions that took place...
First, take one rounded off McGard lock nut key one distorted lock nut and put them together...
wow, what a coincidence! Yesterday I got a nice sized nail in the sidewall of my ford ranger, and went to change the flat. Whoever installed the new set of tires on my truck last winter TORQUED these mothers down as hard as they could! I SNAPPED 2-3 sockets! literally broke them! and the nuts didnt even BUDGE! Took it to Big O today, I bought the tires at sears but they changed my tire and put on the spare for free!
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