MARAUDER Stereo Install with MANY Interior Disassy Pics!

[JoeBoomz]

I finally got off my lazy rump and decided to install my stereo in my Marauder. The system is over 12 years old, I had it in high school in a 92 Grand Marquis. Then I moved into a `96 Grand Marquis. Then I took it out and sold the `96 for cash to get into a Marauder two years ago and the system has been boxed since then. By the time you're through these pics, you will see why I've been putting it off!

Total system install is over 20 hours (maybe I go a bit slow because I'm OCD and only like things done perfectly). Note to would-be thieves: the stereo equipment is OLD and not worth much. Don't bother finding my car and stealing it, you won't be able to sell it for very much. Check Kijiji and don't say I didn't warn you.

I also used this opportunity to run a dedicated 4ga. power wire to my BAP for fuel delivery. The stereo itself is powered by 0ga wire.

First off, here's the passenger side of the engine bay where we will be going to run two power wires to the positive battery terminal.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5752.JPG


Here's a shot of the 0ga power wire used to power the stereo. Ran along the passenger side of the car.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5779.JPG


Here's a shot of 4ga wire that was also run, this will feed my BAP (and possible future fuel additions). Ran along the passenger side of the car.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5781.JPG


Here we have brown Rockford Fosgate "Obsidian" RCA stereo wiring that goes from the deck to the amplifiers in the trunk. This will be run down the middle of the car under the carpet. The driver's seat will come out to do this.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5782.JPG


This gorgeous stuff is Rockford Fosgate braided 12ga speaker wire. Four runs of wire total, to the 2 speakers in the back dash, and one to each of the front door speakers.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5783.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5784.JPG


This is one of TWO power capacitors that I put in the trunk to support the subwoofer power draw.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5773.JPG


Here's a shot of our trunk where we will be spending quite a few hours.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5741.JPG


First step was to remove the pitiful factory subwoofer. Actually the sound wasn't that bad, which is why I put off the install for so long. I've had worse factory stereos than the Marauder's!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5737.JPG

This one is very easy, four bolts hold it to the underside of the rear dash. It only has one plug connecting it and comes right out.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5793.JPG

Continued in Post 2...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 1

With the factory sub and amp removed we have a lot more room to work in the trunk.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5797.JPG


Now we take out the Marauder's nice back seat.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5744.JPG


The seat bottom is held in by hooks. You can put your knee up against the base and push it towards the back of the car on either side of the driveline hump and it should unhook and lift up.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5745.JPG


Here's a shot of the back seat without the bottom.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5746.JPG


The back is hooked vertically with two bolts at the bottom that also hold the left and right seat belts to the frame. An 18mm deep socket gets these out and they weren't very tight in my Marauder.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5749.JPG


Once the two bolts are out you can lift the back right off of the frame and take it out of the car. Now you can see what those hooks look like:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5758.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5759.JPG


Here is the back of the back seat back outside of the car (that's a lot of backs):
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5755.JPG


Here is the back of the Marauder without any seats:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5761.JPG

TRUE STORY - I moved a 6 ft. COFFEE TABLE from Calgary to Edmonton (3 hrs drive) in the back of my 92 Grand Marquis with the back seat removed exactly like this. It fit perfectly between the doors! It was years ago and I wish I had a picture...


Now with the back seat out, we have DIRECT trunk access under this rubber flap:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5765.JPG

Continued in Post 3...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 2

Rear dash speakers are an easy swap in Marauders that have rear dash metal speaker grills. There are four 6x8 speakers in the Marauder (5x7 will also work).
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5791.JPG

Some Marauders actually do not have these covers; instead they have carpet overlay on top of the rear speakers and to change them you need to take off the back dash. If this is you, here's what to do:
- Take out the round-head plastic push-pins along the base of the dash that hold it down at the front (one shown in the picture above)
- There is a Phillips head screw on each side of the central brake light on top of the back dash. Take them out.
- The brake light pod will lift straight up and out, unplug the connector for the light
- The dash should pull out at this point, you may have to flex it upwards in the middle slightly.
- You may need to remove the covers on the rear window pillars as well to get the back dash out (I was able to on my previous cars, but did not try in the Marauder).


Four Phillips screws hold each speaker in place (you have to lift the dash up to get at the back screws that are covered a bit by it, but you don't have to remove it if you have speaker grills.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5801.JPG


25 WATTS HENCHO EN MEXICO
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5803.JPG


We'll be replacing these with some more powerful 80 watt RMS Rockford Fosgate Speakers. ;D
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5884.JPG


With the easy parts done it's time to stop putting off the harder stuff. Let's get the front doors apart.

First step is to take this plastic cover off with a small flathead screwdriver.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5804.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5805.JPG
...and take the torx screw out that holds the handle in place.


There are screws along the side and bottom of the door to remove next
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5807.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5808.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5810.JPG


Continued in Post 4...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 3

Here's what it looks like as we take off the passenger side door handle:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5822.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5823.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5824.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5825.JPG


You will also have to pull out the switches panel that has window and lock switches. This is the driver one; it has metal bendy tabs that you can push in with a flathead screwdriver to pull it out easier.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5812.JPG

Lift gently; as these cars get older, the plastic gets dry and breaks easy!

Out goes the driver door button panel:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5813.JPG


CAREFUL - before you try to yank the door off, there is ONE MORE SCREW hiding under the button panel!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5814.JPG


The plastic triangles at the top front of the door panel are held into the frame with a metal clip, and held to the door panel by a plastic clip. Pull straight out on them to get them out of the frame, but leave them in for when you lift the door paneling off.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5819.JPG


If it comes out, don't worry, it can be put back on easily:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5820.JPG


The door panel hangs on with hooks, lift it up to take it off. Don't pull it away just yet, there are wire harnesses to unplug still. Here's the backside of the driver door panel with plugs still connected:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5816.JPG

Continued in Post 5...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 4

Here is a shot of the underside of the passenger door button panel. You can see what the plastic clips look like. Best way to remove is to pull straight up. You can't get a screwdriver into them very easily to push them open.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5826.JPG


Now we can see the inside of the driver and passenger doors. Speaker removal is easy, they're just screwed in.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5828.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5829.JPG


Now we start taking apart some of the trim on the door frames. The plastic piece you see here is hooked BEHIND the ones around it, so lift it upwards and towards the inside of the car to get it loose:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5830.JPG


Door rubbers pull right off, they're only clipped to the metal frame. This is on the passenger side.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5832.JPG


Now we will get rid of some of the side kick plates by the front passenger's feet. This one has two push tabs holding it in:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5834.JPG


...and it pulls straight out towards the rear of the car:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5835.JPG


Here's the backside of the piece:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5836.JPG


Now we have to take off the piece at the top on the underside of the dash. It's held in by a couple more push pins and a black hanger which has tabs on the sides. Squeeze them together with your fingers and the piece will drop right off of the hanger.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5839.JPG


Once the piece is loose, you have to remove the light bulb. Twist it sideways and it will come right out. Check out the dust on the backside of this piece:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5840.JPG


Continued in Post 6...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 5

Now that we have the coverings off around the passenger side floor, I can show you the main entry point for the power wires.

There is a large rubber grommet in the passenger side firewall which is used for factory wiring. The large grommet has LOTS of extra space in it to drill holes and run extra wires.

You can see in this picture a vacuum line I have previously run through it for my AutoMeter boost gauge:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5841.JPG


So now we feel sorry for any mother giving birth as we try to shove a 0 gauge power wire through a hole in this grommet and understand how difficult it can be to put something large through such a small space!

We drill a hole carefully in the rubber, avoiding the factory wiring AND the metal frame around the grommet. Break a factory wire and you'll have a big mess to fix. Catch the frame and you might have a sharp metal edge that your new power wiring will rub against. So we have to go slowly and carefully. Scary as it sounds, it's not actually too bad to do.

Because the 0ga wire is so big, I start with a small drill bit and work upwards in bit size, finishing with a bit that is slightly smaller than the size of the power wire so the rubber stretches as the wire goes through and seals it up perfectly against the elements.

With the hole drilled, we take a long piece of standard fencing metal tie wire and fold it in half (it will not have an edge to catch anything when folded). We give it a slight upwards bend, and feed the folded end through our drilled hole until we can grab it in the engine bay.

Now we affix the tie wire to the 0ga wire we are going to draw through the firewall:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5846.JPG

I wrapped the tie wire around the fat 0ga wire, and then taped it together using ultra-sticky tuck tape. Notice the 3-in-one oil sitting on the floor. The tuck tape is lubed with oil and then we proceed to push, curse, and pull it through the grommet through to the engine bay.


...and finally, jump for joy when complete:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5849.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5850.JPG

The tie wire is still attached. At this point we cut it off and pull the remainder through.


Time to run some power wire along the side of the car! Let's take the rest of the plastic off along the bottom of the door frame:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5851.JPG

This stuff feels like it's going to break when you pull it off. But it holds together pretty good.

Here's what those clips look like:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5852.JPG


With that piece off, the other side of the door rubber comes off easily:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5853.JPG


Let's get the back one off too:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5855.JPG


Now we can get the pillar cover off next to the front passenger seat over the seat belt. It has simple metal clips and it pulls straight out:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5854.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5856.JPG

Continued in Post 7...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 6

Next we remove the plastic cover that goes along side the back seat by the floor on the wall. More metal clips that pull straight out easily:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5857.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5858.JPG


Now we have a clear run from front to back where we can run the wires. But first we need to open up the wire channels that run along the passenger side of the car on the floor for the factory wiring. They are held closed by tape and some small socket screws:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5859.JPG


Opening it up, we see that this Marauder was meant from the factory to have large gauge power wire added to it, with a completely-empty center channel all ready to go!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5861.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5864.JPG


Next we have to make the same run with our 4ga power wire. We start again by drilling a hole through the firewall grommet:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5865.JPG


Again we prepare and feed through tie wire, attach it to our power wire, lube it up, and push, curse, and pull it through to the engine bay:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5867.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5870.JPG

Now that we're done having our way with the factory grommet, add some silicone around the wires where they enter the grommet to ensure it's 100% sealed up from the elements. Check your wire lengths under the hood before doing this!


Continuing on, the passenger side channel is wide enough to accommodate both the 4ga power wire and the seat wiring that goes away halfway down the side.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5871.JPG


The power wires are now run down the passenger side of the car. Here's where they come out of the wiring channel by the back seat:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5872.JPG

Continued in Post 8...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 7

Here are the power lines running up the back of the car by the wheel well:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5873.JPG


...and out into the trunk on the passenger side, ready to power some goodies.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5875.JPG


I mounted two power caps here on the passenger side of the trunk. The top of the fuse block shown here will connect to the battery via the 0ga wire. The bottom part will connect to the amps.
The caps are grounded directly into the metal wall.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5878.JPG


Now that power wire is run, time to run some speaker wire. We'll start with the front doors. The wire will be run through the wiring boot with the factory wiring. Here's a shot of the INSIDE of the passenger door, towards the wiring boot and the track of the power window:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5885.JPG


We pull the cover off the wall by the front passenger feet space to get to the other side of the wiring boot:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5889.JPG


It's tie wire time again. Fold it in half and feed it through so it doesn't catch anywhere.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5890.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5891.JPG


Attach it to the speaker wire and pull it through:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5892.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5893.JPG


CAUTION: Check your door speaker wiring to ensure it will not interfere with the power window as it rolls down! Do not run the wire BETWEEN the window tracks, and ensure it is tight up against the inside of the door and not hanging loose!

We run the speaker wire down the side of the car through the leftover space in the wire channel (do not run it up against a big power wire, it may cause signal noise, keep them as far apart as possible):
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5895.JPG


Continued in Post 9...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 8

One additional wire is run from the front to the back on the passenger side. It is a small power wire that goes from the front deck to the back amps and is used to remotely turn on the amps when the deck is turned on. You can see it here coming out by the back seat (the small blue wire):
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5896.JPG


Now we're DONE running wire on the passenger side! We've run so far a 0ga power wire, a 4ga power wire, the braided speaker wire, and the remote amp turn-on wire:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5898.JPG


Now we start taking stuff apart on the driver's side. First is this piece with the hood release.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5900.JPG


The black plastic filler behind the hood release pops straight out:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5901.JPG


And then the plastic kick plate will pull straight out just like the one on the passenger side did:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5903.JPG


We will need to loosen the hood release by removing this bolt:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5905.JPG


And that gets us enough access to run the speaker wire through to the driver door:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5909.JPG


The Rockford Fosgate speakers protrude a bit on the one side so they were mounted upside down to fit perfectly behind the door panel:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5912.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5915.JPG

At this point, to finish off the speakers in one shot, I also did the ones in the back dash:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5911.JPG



Continued in Post 10...

[finster101]

Appears to be lost in the space, time continuim.

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 9

We're done with the front doors, so let's put them back together. As you put the panels on, pull the factory speaker wire and plug through with the rest of the wires and store it safely in the panel so that it is not dangling free and won't interfere with the power windows:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5916.JPG


When putting the button panels back in the door, you can gently push on the plastic tabs the direction that they will be locking. This will make sure the panels aren't loose and will wiggle after re installation. Notice how the clip looks on the back of the panel here, it acts like a hinge.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5918.JPG


...because of the way this clip is, you will need to reinstall the button panel like this. It should clip in nice and solid:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5917.JPG


Next we will run that little blue wire for the remote amp turn-on under the front dash and to where the head unit resides. There is black coaxial wire running under the dash on the passenger side up to the same place that feeds the antenna for the radio, so we can simply follow and attach to it along the way.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5919.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5921.JPG


Here's what the enclosure looks like for the head unit (already removed). The red plug you see is the factory radio harness. The black coaxial cable is for the radio antenna.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5924.JPG


How will we get the little blue wire up here? Fold some tie wire in half again!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5925.JPG


Fish it through to under the dash:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5926.JPG


...attach it to the blue wire and pull it on up:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5927.JPG


The factory head unit is replaced with an aftermarket deck. To connect in to the factory wiring you can use a wiring harness like the one shown here, and connect all of its wires to the harness that comes out of your new deck. Then plug and play!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5923.JPG

Continued in Post 11...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 10

Time to run some RCA cables! We need to get under the drivers side dash.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5928.JPG


The good news is that the top plate, directly under the steering wheel, does NOT need be removed. There is a plastic kick plate behind it, directly above the pedals, that we will remove instead. It is held in by more plastic snaps that pull out and it will have a lot of dust on the top side of it:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5933.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5934.JPG


Now we fish some tie wire down to pull up the RCA cables on the driver's side of the dash:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5937.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5938.JPG


Next we take out the driver's seat! There are four bolts holding it to the floor, covered by plastic caps that pop off easily.

Move the seat back to get the front bolts undone, then move it forward and up to get the back bolts off and then unplug the FOUR (!!) factory plugs under the seat. The seat will fit perfectly out of the driver's door and there should be no need to rotate it sideways.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5939.JPG


Now that you can see under the seat, check for money! I found a single lucky penny.
Here's a shot of the plugs under the driver's seat:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5941.JPG


The driver's seat belt is held in by a single large torx screw. The plastic cover will pull off (gently - it has a rotational tab that will break easily) to expose the screw.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5953.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5954.JPG


For reference, here's a picture of the airbag module mounted to the floor beneath the carpet under the driver's seat:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5945.JPG

Continued in Post 12...

[MercNasty]

hope to see and hear a video of the system once complete.

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 11

Here is the driver's side of the Marauder without the driver's seat:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5949.JPG


With the hardware gone it was a simple matter to pull up the carpet and run the RCA cables along the driveline hump underneath the carpet.

Here are the RCA cables coming out from under the carpet at the back seat:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5947.JPG


"Why can't we run those RCA cables down the wire channels at the side of the car?"

Unfortunately for me I tried it in my `92 and they picked up a lot of noise from the factory power wiring. The RCA's are a LOW level signal which gets greatly amplified before going to the speakers. So any extra noise in the wires is quite audible by the time it passes through the amplifiers.

Other RCA cables might not have this issue. Or the Marauder might not have this issue. I hate doing work twice, and just run them down the middle the first time to be safe. They sound great and I have zero noise from them this way.


The RCA cables are fed under the back seat and a hole is made to bring them into the trunk:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5956.JPG


Finally, we did have to run one wire down the driver's side wire channels; the driver's door speaker wire:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5955.JPG


Woohoo! We are DONE wiring inside of the car, and the rest of the work is in the trunk! All of the panels, door rubbers, and door sill pieces are put back together.

The work in the trunk mostly involved running wires nicely and zip-tying them together, mounting the amps, drilling and baring metal on holes for grounds, and connecting the wires to the amps nicely. I do have some shots of the work along the way though.


Here is the 4ga wiring upgrade for my BAP, with room in the fuse block for future additions if needed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5959.JPG


The knob for my BAP was moved and mounted in front of the original factory subwoofer mounting bracket in the trunk:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5961.JPG


Here's the trunk again, this time filled up with amplifiers:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_6039.JPG


A picture of me charging the power capacitors up for the first time using the included 1000-ohm resistors:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_6044.JPG


Up front under the hood, a 250A breaker was added so you can quickly shut power off to the back if you need to disconnect the battery:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_6043.JPG


And an upgraded battery connector was put on the battery post. This one shows the current voltage at all times:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_6042.JPG

Continued in Post 13...

[JoeBoomz]

...Continued from Post 12

Here's the connected and installed head unit all done (the bracket that converts double DIN to single DIN is an eBay item):
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_2083.jpg


And finally, when the wires are all run and connected, and the carpet and panels restored, it's time to drop the sub box into the trunk:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_1955.jpg

The spare tire fits perfectly over top of the sub box, and although I can no longer use my trunk organizer, there is still ample trunk space when needed.


One last great pic; "how does a dad with two kids get 20 hours to work on his stereo install?" Aside from staying up late after the kids are in bed, I was also able to distract them for some time so I could work in the trunk:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_1952.jpg


Thanks for viewing, it was a lot of work and I hope many people can benefit from the pics of the Marauder interior dis-assembly. The stereo works and sounds great, you can put it to 90% volume and the sound is crystal-clear. Now I need to spend another 20 hours installing Dynamat because the car rattles so much from the bass :D


UPDATE: Here's a vid of the system in action, I apologize in advance that the camera mic was incapable of capturing the audio, you will see why...
rg4QYe64mjM

[Mike M]

Wow, do you have a pic of the head unit?

[martyo]

fantastic write up!

Kudos!!!!

[tbone]

Great work! Thanks! I'll use some of this info to do my stereo. Just the head unit though.

[03sport007]

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the write up!!!!!!!!! You've been MIA for a while glad you're back.

[Siege]

Another great writeup!

Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and document all of this during the project.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

JoeBoomz,

This thread is absolutely fantastic! It should be made into a sticky pronto! I've been wanting to upgrade my stereo system since day 1, but have been hesitant for many reasons (mainly, didn't want to mess up the interior like I've done on my previous cars).

Instructions are great...pics are excellent. It's got me movtivated to get my act together and get whatever remaining pieces I need so that when I finally have a whole day to myself, I can take advantage of it.

Thanks a million for posting!!!!!

[MMcactusflower]

WOW! A trememdous amount of work here and pics to show us as well. Thanks for your hard work and efforts...replacing the factory music system is on my wish list and when that time comes, I will have a great resource here.
Thanks again for what you have done for all of us with upgraded music dreams for our MMs.

[Vortech347]

This thread needs to be a perma sticky....

[Spectragod]

Nice write up! If I may make a suggestion..... after the circuit breaker and before the power feeds, you may want to add fuses, if the line shorts out on the battery side of the fuse box in the trunk, it will take a lot to trip a 250 amp breaker, translation=lots of smoke and/or fire.

[2,4shofast]

You did a very good job on the write up, I was reliving my install while reading about yours. I agree this should be a sticky for sure!:beer:

[J-MAN]

Just WOW! Thanks Joe. :bows:

[JoeBoomz]

First thank you to everyone for the kind comments, I have learned so much from the people on this site taking time to post things so I figured I might as well snap photos along the way while I was doing the job! :beer:



Wow, do you have a pic of the head unit?

I added the pic today; I'm currently running an older Pioneer single DIN that works terrific with a USB stick. Pioneers look awesome in the Marauder, their colors match the factory dash colors perfectly!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_2083.jpg
...unfortunately the new Pioneer double DIN units have me really thinking about an upgrade, especially now with the handsfree cell phone laws in place where I live.



Wow!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the write up!!!!!!!!! You've been MIA for a while glad you're back.

Over the winter I wasn't able to do much to my car and fell out of touch with the forum a bit. Stay tuned for some posts regarding LiveLink logging and more Pro Racer stuff! Also we are working on an 03 Cobra engine/blower install in Dad's marauder for next winter and we'll get some good pictures along the way!



This thread needs to be a perma sticky....

I've been saying that for years about ALL my threads! :D




Nice write up! If I may make a suggestion..... after the circuit breaker and before the power feeds, you may want to add fuses, if the line shorts out on the battery side of the fuse box in the trunk, it will take a lot to trip a 250 amp breaker, translation=lots of smoke and/or fire.

Folks pay attention, this is actually VERY good advice. I will be making some more changes to the wiring, similar to what you suggest here. However the alternator is also getting an upgrade to ~240 amps so I have to be careful which fuses to use.

Thanks again guys, if you have any other questions or need a higher quality version of any of the photos just let me know. I downsized them from ~500MB to 20MB to post them on the forum.

[Odinson]

Wow that was awesome. I'm planning on running some 4 gauge to the trunk and dreading it. Not anymore! Thanks.

Marauders will never die!

[Esilar]

A very good work and an article with many hints and pictures which greatly show the important tasks. :bows:
As i'm just on the way to swap my head unit it's perfect for me. :D
Thank you.

[Vortech347]

Again, MODS STICKY THIS ****!

[blkZooM]

besides the point but I'm having trouble putting the bottom seat back in on the hooks any idea what could be wrong

[Comin' in Hot]

besides the point but I'm having trouble putting the bottom seat back in on the hooks any idea what could be wrong

Next time you are up my way I'll help you stick the seat back in

[blkZooM]

Next time you are up my way I'll help you stick the seat back in

when will you be out there Derek your always working, so I dont hit you up often. Also JoeBoomz what would you recommend doing if a Eaton swap is in the near future I really would like to add a system, but the swap makes it a little difficult on my part.

[Comin' in Hot]

I work more regular hours now, I'm typically home by 6 every day, or if you are in the Collegeville/Skippack area you could just stop by the office and I'll help you out, it shouldn't take more than a minute

[JoeBoomz]

besides the point but I'm having trouble putting the bottom seat back in on the hooks any idea what could be wrong

To put the backseat bottom in again I did this:
- put the seat in place, don't worry about the hooks yet
- get in the car on one side and face the rear of the car with one knee on the floor
- use your other knee to push the seat bottom towards the rear of the car, push down slightly on the seat at the same time.
- while still applying downward force, release your knee on the seat bottom. It should move forward and latch in.

[blkZooM]

I work more regular hours now, I'm typically home by 6 every day, or if you are in the Collegeville/Skippack area you could just stop by the office and I'll help you out, it shouldn't take more than a minute

Ill most likely be closer to Allentown or the Bethlehem area so it would be after you get off work if that's cool

[Esilar]

Where can i get such a nice battery connector cover with display?

Does the 250 A fuse in the engine bay has a cover for the connectors? I don't like the idea of having a positive terminal exposed. A unnoticed scewdriver or wrench and ... :o

[JoeBoomz]

Where can i get such a nice battery connector cover with display?

Does the 250 A fuse in the engine bay has a cover for the connectors? I don't like the idea of having a positive terminal exposed. A unnoticed scewdriver or wrench and ... :o

I bought two battery terminals from "uneeksupply" on eBay, one for the Marauder and the the other for my Jeep. Both work fantastic. If you search eBay for "battery terminal" you will find tons of great options.

The breaker does NOT come with covers for the connections, which is my only complaint. I wrapped mine in electrical tape and they look pretty good now and are protected.

[JoeBoomz]

An ultra-rare JoeBoomz Duplicate Post:


Sorry guys, I have been meaning to get the car out to a quiet highway to get videos of both the stereo and rear cat delete setup, however I grounded the car after discovering the front tires are a bit too far gone:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-24-2012-DataloggingAndAnalyzing/IMG_2143.jpg
!!!


New tires are being put on the rims tomorrow and hopefully some evening this week I will get out to make the vids.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Joe,

What length of power wire did you use from battery to trunk? I've got a 15' length from a previous install and was wondering if this would be enough. I'm thinking yes (4' from battery to inside car, 6' inside car to trunk, 2-3' inside trunk to amp), but just want to make sure before I start taking things apart.

Got my date set for when I'm gonna do this...July 8. Hopefully I'll get a boom from my sub and not my battery...:lol:

[JoeBoomz]

Joe,

What length of power wire did you use from battery to trunk? I've got a 15' length from a previous install and was wondering if this would be enough. I'm thinking yes (4' from battery to inside car, 6' inside car to trunk, 2-3' inside trunk to amp), but just want to make sure before I start taking things apart.


The 0ga power wire I used was 17' in length. And I took more than 2' extra off of it in the process. So you should be fine with 15', at least to the very back of the trunk where you could mount a fuse or distribution block!

Have fun and enjoy the BOOMZ! :beer:

[IwantmyMMnow!]

The 0ga power wire I used was 17' in length. And I took more than 2' extra off of it in the process. So you should be fine with 15', at least to the very back of the trunk where you could mount a fuse or distribution block!

Have fun and enjoy the BOOMZ! :beer:

Just one amp and one sub, so no need for a distribution block. I've heard that an in-line fuse should be installed within 2' of the battery...not the case?

[JoeBoomz]

Just one amp and one sub, so no need for a distribution block. I've heard that an in-line fuse should be installed within 2' of the battery...not the case?

Fuse or breaker. The closer to the battery the better, as the wire from the battery is always "hot".

If you were to put the fuse in the trunk instead and the wire is broken anywhere between the fuse and the battery, it would short out completely and you'd have big trouble. So, it's best to have the fuse as close to the battery as possible.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Fuse or breaker. The closer to the battery the better, as the wire from the battery is always "hot".

If you were to put the fuse in the trunk instead and the wire is broken anywhere between the fuse and the battery, it would short out completely and you'd have big trouble. So, it's best to have the fuse as close to the battery as possible.

Thanks...that's where I've had them before. Just had a :confused: moment when you mentioned having a fuse or DB in the trunk...

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks...that's where I've had them before. Just had a :confused: moment when you mentioned having a fuse or DB in the trunk...

Sorry if I've confused anyone - with capacitor(s) in the trunk, the power from the trunk side is also "hot" so you should have a fuse on that end as well before the long run of power wire to the front.

If you don't have a trunk power source and it all comes from the front, just the one up front would be sufficient.

Most amps also have fuses on them as well to protect them.

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Sorry if I've confused anyone - with capacitor(s) in the trunk, the power from the trunk side is also "hot" so you should have a fuse on that end as well before the long run of power wire to the front.

If you don't have a trunk power source and it all comes from the front, just the one up front would be sufficient.

Most amps also have fuses on them as well to protect them.

I've never had a system big enough to require a cap...:o

While most amps do have fuse(s) on them, it's good safety practice to have an in-line fuse near the battery as well. Got to learn about this indirectly when a friend of mine blew his amp so bad that the heat/sparks caused the carpeting on his sub box to catch fire and when he pulled the power wire out, there were several badly charred/melted places along it....:eek:

[JoeBoomz]

It took some time to get out and make some good videos of the system in action, but here they are.



UPDATE: Here's a vid of the system in action, I apologize in advance that the camera mic was incapable of capturing the audio, you will see why...
rg4QYe64mjM

[Esilar]

It took some time to get out and make some good videos of the system in action, but here they are.

I am right that the sound distortion came from the camera?
How long you can play like on the video before the battery waves the white flag? :cool:

[JoeBoomz]

All distortion you heard was the mic in the camera. Or possibly car rattles!

The sound starts clipping after about 5 minutes on battery at those levels due to the amps being starved. I don't ever really do it and only did this time to keep things quiet for the video. With the volume and bass down it lasts for hours on battery no problem.

[bugsyc]

Excellent write up.Even I could follow it..You have a job as a directions writer for Jap electronics that can be understood,if you wanted one..One small question...I have the same battery clamp,where does the blue wire go???thanks for all the work you put into this write up,it shows...bugsy

[JoeBoomz]

Excellent write up.Even I could follow it..You have a job as a directions writer for Jap electronics that can be understood,if you wanted one..One small question...I have the same battery clamp,where does the blue wire go???thanks for all the work you put into this write up,it shows...bugsy

My pleasure Bugsy, I enjoy hearing that people benefit from the time I spent on these. I learned tons from informative posts from other members and have made great progress on my car because of them; I'm only happy to do the same! It's a shame that some of the great contributors like DR were chased away, we can all benefit from sharing.

Regarding the blue wire hookup - it goes to ground so that the voltage meter can measure the voltage drop across the battery. Either connect the blue wire to the negative terminal of the battery, or to the chassis where the other grounds are.

In this picture below you can see the blue wire coming out of the positive battery connector, it goes behind the battery, and comes out on the left side where it is connected to the frame on a green factory ground screw:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_6042.JPG

[8UWITH6]

Any problems with power loss (lights blinking) at full volume with a stock alternator and all those old school Fosgate Amps? :D

[JoeBoomz]

The caps helped a ton, the only thing is slight headlight dimming at night when the bass hits hard. No effect on the power to the fuel system.

I will probably swap the alt over the winter when it's off the road with a 250amp chrome job.

[8UWITH6]

Thanks. I was just curious. I run a lot of old school Fosgate equipment like you. (Nice to see people still using the DVC subs). I have DVC's, HX2, and some of the new Power Series stuff. Love it all. When I find my Marauder Im just trying to figure out the best route in terms of speaker size and type inside, and the best way to keep the power loss down. I will more than likely add a trunk mounted battery this time around. This thread is bookmarked for future reference, thanks for your step by step pictures.:beer:

[MinnesotaMM]

The amount of dedication and quality here is incredible. Props for being patient and getting it done right!

[bugsyc]

Hey Joe, Where is the grommet on the fire wall in the engine compartment.Do you have to get at it from under the car? or do you have to remove some parts to get at it???I just am not able to see it.In the passenger compartment it's easy to get to,I just can't find it in the engine bay...

[JoeBoomz]

Bugsy, it's buried pretty good and you might be able to see it from the underside. I can't remember last time I tried! :)

I usually feed the tie wire with an upwards curve so when it comes out in the engine bay it surfaces where you can reach it and pull it through from above.

[bugsyc]

Gotcha and thanks...

[daddyusmaximus]

Researching how difficult to remove the factory sub enclosure... Glad I found this thread. Great detail in this.

[1Marauder]

Dibs on the trunk organizer!!!!!

This write up is unbelievably articulate, easy to follow, linear... +19 on the kudos for a great job. Thank you for posting up and MODS please make this a sticky!

Can't wait to hear it live!


Seriously though, I did beat Jerry on the Dibs for the trunk Organizer!

[fastblackmerc]

Researching how difficult to remove the factory sub enclosure... Glad I found this thread. Great detail in this.

Some nuts and a couple of electrical connectors.

[daddyusmaximus]

Managed to get the sub out and the back seat out today before I got sore. (sucks being a cripple) lucky for me my car has the grills on the back deck so I won't have to take that shelf carpet off. I'll get the new speakers in tonight probably, & I can start taking measurements for my new sub enclosure.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[daddyusmaximus]

...Continued from Post 2

Rear dash speakers are an easy swap in Marauders that have rear dash metal speaker grills. There are four 6x8 speakers in the Marauder (5x7 will also work).
[B]http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5791.JPG


Do these grills come off easy? I'm afraid I'll damage one if I just start prying up.

[JoeBoomz]

They come off pretty easy, the worst that could happen is getting them a bit bent. They're metal.

[jmsa540]

what aftermarket subs will fit in place of the stock sub?

[daddyusmaximus]

what aftermarket subs will fit in place of the stock sub?

I don't know of anything that is a direct fit. Most likely it will require a custom box. I found a JL Audio 12W3-D4 sub in an odd shaped sealed down firing enclosure a few years back at a stereo shop going out of business. I had it in a 99 P-71 for a while before it sat in the garage for 3 years. Just got lucky that it wasn't too tall to fit. I welded some bolts to the trunk floor to bolt it down to.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/daddyusmaximus/cars/012_zpsyw5f2hso.jpg (http://s219.photobucket.com/user/daddyusmaximus/media/cars/012_zpsyw5f2hso.jpg.html)

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/daddyusmaximus/cars/019_zpseglv67tb.jpg (http://s219.photobucket.com/user/daddyusmaximus/media/cars/019_zpseglv67tb.jpg.html)

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/daddyusmaximus/cars/021_zpsqaqunlrf.jpg (http://s219.photobucket.com/user/daddyusmaximus/media/cars/021_zpsqaqunlrf.jpg.html)

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/daddyusmaximus/cars/Amp%20mounted_zpsvdyq9koa.jpg (http://s219.photobucket.com/user/daddyusmaximus/media/cars/Amp%20mounted_zpsvdyq9koa.jpg. html)

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc306/daddyusmaximus/cars/003_zps44ao7syg.jpg (http://s219.photobucket.com/user/daddyusmaximus/media/cars/003_zps44ao7syg.jpg.html)