2004 Cobra Engine + Whipple Planned for Marauder Install

[JoeBoomz]

My dad purchased this beauty and we are planning to put it into his NA Marauder this coming winter. It is a complete `04 Cobra pull from Davenport with 44,000 on the odometer, we skipped getting the Tremec with it because we will be sticking with an auto.

It has a 2.3L Whipple with 3.50 stock pulley (we plan to swap), 60# injectors, and dual Cobra fuel pumps.

Dad already has a full Kooks exhaust system and will be getting a transmission built as well. He is converting the dual Cobra fuel pump assembly for the Marauder and will be adding a 40A BAP to power it. With this we are anticipating a ~600HP Marauder.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1080432.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1010224.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1090294.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1090309.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1090282.JPG


Some things we are still trying to figure out are the wiring harnesses. Since the Cobra parts are completely assembled and working, we want to keep it together and refrain from swapping out with Marauder parts. This presents problems as many of the plugs are moved on the Cobra motor compared to the Marauder.

We will be running the Marauder ECU and with Pro Racer the tuning shouldn't be much of a problem. As usual I plan to be snapping lots of pictures along the way when we do the installs! Stay tuned...

[Juice]

Sex on wheels. Looking forward to seeing the build!

[Black&Gifted]

Looks good. With the 2.3, it looks awesome. Should make mid 500s to the wheels, but the torque will be amazing.

Couple things to think about/plan for: (1) you need to use the Marauder oil pan and oil pick up tube because of the front crossmember; (2) you either need to use a marauder/mach 1 timing cover with the eaton swap brackets or notch the frame to clear the alternator on the termi motor.

[JoeBoomz]

Couple things to think about/plan for: (1) you need to use the Marauder oil pan and oil pick up tube because of the front crossmember; (2) you either need to use a marauder/mach 1 timing cover with the eaton swap brackets or notch the frame to clear the alternator on the termi motor.

We will be notching the frame and are also replacing the oil pan.

Great advice, please keep it coming!!!

EDIT: we are NOT notching the frame, we relocated the alternator.

[Black&Gifted]

Another couple items came to mind LOL:

8 bolt flexplate. Still trying to locate one myself.

Coolant crossover tube - either modify the stock marauder COT or use a different radiator with the inlet on the passenger side (marauder inlet is on the drivers side). I don't know enough about the cooling system to say whether you'd be ok with just running a longer radiator hose would work, and if so how efficiently it would work.

[JoeBoomz]

8 bolt flexplate. Still trying to locate one myself.

Coolant crossover tube - either modify the stock marauder COT or use a different radiator with the inlet on the passenger side (marauder inlet is on the drivers side). I don't know enough about the cooling system to say whether you'd be ok with just running a longer radiator hose would work, and if so how efficiently it would work.

We had a link somewhere for the flex plate to buy online but haven't done it yet. When and if it works I'll let you know from where.

For the rad we will probably get a large cobra rad to install.

Awesome stuff keep it coming!

[MOTOWN]

Heres a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRW-Ford-4-6L-SFI-Steel-Flexplate-164T-8-Bolt-Crank-/120932682795?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c28264c2b&vxp=mtr

[CWright]

My dad purchased this beauty and we are planning to put it into his NA Marauder this coming winter. It is a complete `04 Cobra pull from Davenport with 44,000 on the odometer, we skipped getting the Tremec with it because we will be sticking with an auto.

It has a 2.3L Whipple with 3.50 stock pulley (we plan to swap), 60# injectors, and dual Cobra fuel pumps.

Dad already has a full Kooks exhaust system and will be getting a transmission built as well. He is converting the dual Cobra fuel pump assembly for the Marauder and will be adding a 40A BAP to power it. With this we are anticipating a ~600HP Marauder.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1080432.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1010224.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1090294.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1090309.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-20-2012-CobraEnginePics/P1090282.JPG


Some things we are still trying to figure out are the wiring harnesses. Since the Cobra parts are completely assembled and working, we want to keep it together and refrain from swapping out with Marauder parts. This presents problems as many of the plugs are moved on the Cobra motor compared to the Marauder.

We will be running the Marauder ECU and with Pro Racer the tuning shouldn't be much of a problem. As usual I plan to be snapping lots of pictures along the way when we do the installs! Stay tuned...



Now that's what I'm talking about!!!! :beer:

We did this in mine earlier this year. Just an FYI. I'm running a stock size lower and had to drop the upper down to a 2.75 to keep under a stock hood. That put us at 18lbs of boost which is right where I wanted to be. We also had to trim the cross member under the hood to fit down over the Whipple and carve out a squared off section of the hood liner. I'll post up a pict later on. I can't wait to see this final project!! Good luck and if you need anything please feel free to ask.

[CWright]

Here are some picts. We also had some belt slip so we redisigned the S/C pulley drive and added more pulleys. NO MORE SLIP! :D

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Whipple_2012_009.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Whipple_2012_001.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Whipple_2012_006.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Whipple_2012_003.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Whipple_2012_002.JPG (javascript:;)

[JoeBoomz]

Here are some picts. We also had some belt slip so we redisigned the S/C pulley drive and added more pulleys. NO MORE SLIP! :D


GORGEOUS, absolutely gorgeous! Thank you so much for posting this CWright, your engine and blower looks completely at home in your Marauder and you guys have done a job that looks like it came from the factory!

It looks like the belt tensioners/idlers are setup a bit differently between our two engines; I don't think we'll be seeing any slippage issues with what we've currently got. I see you kept the battery under the hood, was the air intake tubing custom fabbed or did you find a kit that fit the Marauder nicely?

[CBT]

Jesus that's clean, has it ever been cranked?

[DEFYANT]

......and THAT is how the Marauder SHOULD have come from Mercury! Or at least had the option anyway....

[CWright]

GORGEOUS, absolutely gorgeous! Thank you so much for posting this CWright, your engine and blower looks completely at home in your Marauder and you guys have done a job that looks like it came from the factory!

It looks like the belt tensioners/idlers are setup a bit differently between our two engines; I don't think we'll be seeing any slippage issues with what we've currently got. I see you kept the battery under the hood, was the air intake tubing custom fabbed or did you find a kit that fit the Marauder nicely?

Thanks man! I did notice our belt set up is a little different on the S/C. Brandon at Mo's Speed Shop (Martyo) fabbed up the intake tube and I was very impressed. He said he could make more if anyone was interested. He can take the mearsurements off of mine if needed. I did want to keep the Battery under the hood to keep from having to run big guage wire to the trunk. It was much easier to move some other things around. If you need any info I'll be more than happy to help or get you an answer. Good luck with your build! :2thumbs:



Jesus that's clean, has it ever been cranked?

:P



......and THAT is how the Marauder SHOULD have come from Mercury! Or at least had the option anyway....


+1 ^^^ :beer:

[BODYMAN]

IMO battery in trunk has given alot of room fora I/C ice/coolant resv box or other items. 600 rwhp is a little hopeful! Iam pushing 20lbs boost w/ low comp Alluminator & see my#'s in sig. I would do cams will you got the motor out also again IMO. The other thing you may consider is swapping out the plenum for a S/B TB & plenum that alone will gain you at least 30ish more to the rear tires. To each there own but if it were mean I would get the brkts from terry so I could retain the MM timing cover. Then changfe over to MM oil pan & p/u tube, doing this stuff will allow for fitment with no frame notching Which is a fairly big job. As for fuel You may want to keep in mind just going full return style one thing I didnt do but really regret Also if you stay returnless you will probably run out of fuel with 2 cobra pumps maybe/maybe not? Anyhow best of luck on the job you will truly enjoy the finish product. Feel free to PM me with any questions Having gone thru this myself over a year ago I may be able to help.... Look foward to seeing it when done.

[BODYMAN]

Another couple items came to mind LOL:

8 bolt flexplate. Still trying to locate one myself.

Coolant crossover tube - either modify the stock marauder COT or use a different radiator with the inlet on the passenger side (marauder inlet is on the drivers side). I don't know enough about the cooling system to say whether you'd be ok with just running a longer radiator hose would work, and if so how efficiently it would work.

As for the COT the best way would do like Zack had posted on Chicago garage. he pulled that info from mach1 registry, looks much cleaner doing that way. As for wiring harness personally I would keep the MM harness myself , using the Cobra could cause some unesc work.:beer:

[99SVT]

Looks good, the number of supercharged Marauders in Alberta keeps climbing.

[Vortech347]

What did you do about the alternator?

Great swap, I just hate the idea of taking out an aluminum block and putting in an Iron one.

[JoeBoomz]

Hi guys, Dad is still working on getting all the required parts together for this build. We will be setting up a return-style fuel system, and are working on a creative alternator solution instead of using the Cobra stock location. We are getting a dual fuel pump hat fabbed up as well and this stuff takes lots of time. Might have to put the install off till next Winter so the car can be enjoyed throughout the summer again :)

CWright, would you be able to post more pics around the Alternator area? From what we could tell, notching the frame includes removing a bolt from the suspension. Need to confirm if this is true.

As an alternative, we are looking at rotating the alternator upwards towards the valve cover on the bracket with the long bolt, and using a custom bracket to hold it in place at the top.

[CWright]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/alternator_3.JPG (javascript:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Alternator_1.JPG (javascript:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/alternator_2.JPG (javascript:;)

[breeze]

Verrrry nice joeboomz!

[Shaijack]

Man that is nice.

[blkZooM]

Summit racing also sells an 8 bolt flexplate for $129

[justbob]

I got mine from Ebay from an F150 for like $38.00 shipped. Just grab an 8 bolt 164 tooth.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

[JoeBoomz]

<awesome pictures>

Thank you very much for taking the time posting those!

Now I see why you didn't need to notch the frame - you have the backwards-mounted alternator bracket installed on the front and the Marauder front skirt. I totally missed that in your first batch of pictures.

We're keeping the Cobra front and as a result, we're stuck with the alternator mounted to the block next to the steering pump and oil filter. But we think we have a good solution and will definitely post pictures here when done :)

[guspech750]

Looking forward to more posts and pictures in this thread!!


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[DOOM]

Great swap, I just hate the idea of taking out an aluminum block and putting in an Iron one.



It's only a 80 pound difference.

With the numbers he's putting down it's not going to matter.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

[Baaad GN]

Just were does one come accross a motor, trans, blower in a package to purchase? Criags list etc??????

[JoeBoomz]

Just were does one come accross a motor, trans, blower in a package to purchase? Criags list etc??????

eBay - the seller is midwaymustangs (Eric) and he was terrific to deal with. He sells complete swaps like this frequently.

[guspech750]

Just were does one come accross a motor, trans, blower in a package to purchase? Criags list etc??????

I've seen lots of trans/engine/blower combos for sale on eBay. LOTS!!


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Baaad GN]

I'll have to go and look at ebay, haven't needed to as all my engines are perfect but just in case! LOL

[Richy04]

schwing!!! Good luck with the build!!

[JoeBoomz]

Progress is coming along nicely with this build:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5699.JPG

Here's some closeups:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5753.JPG


The alternator will be located here, a custom bracket will be fabbed up to hold it securely in place.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5754.JPG

Some nice colors have been added but...

The MAJORITY of the work has been on the return fuel system, including a custom-built TRIPLE fuel pump hat which will have 3 GT pumps on it. I forgot to snap pics of the finished hat, will post them here next time I'm over there. Dad wants -10 from the hat up to the rails, with aeromotive fuel filter and regulator, then -8 back to the tank (the hat has provision for the return line).


Since I blew MY engine, (see http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88511) we will be taking a slight detour to drop in the cobra longblock that I purchased (with the Eaton) into my car, replacing the Eaton with all of my currently-existing Vortech setup. Getting my car up and running again with be great practice for when we get dad's done :)

[RacerX]

Quit posting porn!!! I'm at work dammit!!! :D

[Raleigh Marauder]

http://www.themeparkreview.com/forum/files/drooling-homer-simpson_2.jpg

[CWright]

Progress is coming along nicely with this build:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5699.JPG

Here's some closeups:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5753.JPG


The alternator will be located here, a custom bracket will be fabbed up to hold it securely in place.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5754.JPG

Some nice colors have been added but...

The MAJORITY of the work has been on the return fuel system, including a custom-built TRIPLE fuel pump hat which will have 3 GT pumps on it. I forgot to snap pics of the finished hat, will post them here next time I'm over there. Dad wants -10 from the hat up to the rails, with aeromotive fuel filter and regulator, then -8 back to the tank (the hat has provision for the return line).


Since I blew MY engine, (see http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88511) we will be taking a slight detour to drop in the cobra longblock that I purchased (with the Eaton) into my car, replacing the Eaton with all of my currently-existing Vortech setup. Getting my car up and running again with be great practice for when we get dad's done :)



It's coming along nicely!!! I like the blue a lot. Looks sharp!!!!

[JoeBoomz]

He has a set of valve covers ready to put on, painted with the same blue. And chromed coil covers. Should look pretty swanky when it's all together :)

[tbone]

Dammmnnnnnn......

[babbage]

Nice work on the pulley bridge and lower etc. So that's going in your car now?

[Jeffonebuck]

Standing at Attention !

[CWright]

He has a set of valve covers ready to put on, painted with the same blue. And chromed coil covers. Should look pretty swanky when it's all together :)



That's going to look SMOKIN HOT under the hood! :2thumbs:

[Vortech347]

Did you powdercoat the ribs on the pulley? If so that may cause some belt slip.

[sflrainmaker01]

:awe::awe:Looks awesome:awe::awe:

[MOTOWN]

That is going to be one mean azz build! and i love that your using the pulley bridge setup with a modified alt mounting belt slip shouldnt be an issue.

[SGT_MERC]

That looks awesome. You may wand to check for clearance with the ABS module, if you want to put your alternator there. I had to mount mine backwards and run it in reverse. Just my 2 cents worth.

[kariamack]

any pics of that fuel hat yet ??

[blkZooM]

pretty big fuel line, any plan for a lot more power down in the future

[maineiac]

I just got a woody nice build

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks guys for all the positive comments. Dad and I want to take our Marauders to shows together next year and have the Whipple and Vortech Marauders side by side. He is setting a solid precedent with the nice paint job and I'll probably have to get mine done up with some sweet colors too. DOM, if you're reading this I liked your Green setup


Did you powdercoat the ribs on the pulley? If so that may cause some belt slip.


That looks awesome. You may wand to check for clearance with the ABS module, if you want to put your alternator there. I had to mount mine backwards and run it in reverse. Just my 2 cents worth.


any pics of that fuel hat yet ??


pretty big fuel line, any plan for a lot more power down in the future

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks everyone for the positive comments! This is all Dad's work, and he's doing a terrific job. Also an expensive job!

Our plan is to take our Marauders to the local Show & Shines next summer, and have his Whipple Marauder next to my Vortech Marauder. Hoping to draw a good crowd...

Of course the great paint job he's doing is setting quite a precedent and I will probably have to get my parts painted nicely too. Otherwise my car will look pretty bad next to him. DOM if you're reading this, I liked your GREEN Vortech piping! If I didn't have my kit already, I'd be buying yours...



Did you powdercoat the ribs on the pulley? If so that may cause some belt slip.

Yes the whole pulley got done. Hope it doesn't cause issues but he didn't seem too concerned. We will be sure to get the belt nice and tight!



That looks awesome. You may wand to check for clearance with the ABS module, if you want to put your alternator there. I had to mount mine backwards and run it in reverse. Just my 2 cents worth.

We got an ABS delete to take care of this: http://www.prbmachining-absdeletemanifolds.com/catalog/i43.html
Last weekend we pulled a set of brake lines out of an 06 Crown Vic for dad to play with. Some bending of the lines might be required, but we're not too worried about clearance with the alternator now. Will post pics of this specifically when install is done.



any pics of that fuel hat yet ??

I was going to - but it's not 100% done yet. Don't want to get anyone too excited until it's complete and tested as fitting. The local machine shop that is working on it for Dad is in it for quite a few billable hours. But they may be interested in duplicating it afterwards for interested parties...



pretty big fuel line, any plan for a lot more power down in the future

Whipple Crusher :D

[JoeBoomz]

I've had a few PM's of curious minds wanting to see pictures of the triple fuel hat.

A local machine shop has been spending a TON of time on fabbing these up, they have done a remarkable job and the welds look seamless. And YES, it DOES fit in the tank :P

NOTE: PROTOTYPE version, still requires some tweaking and final version pictures will be posted when it's finally done.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-TripleFuelHat/P1020443.JPG
Those are two GT pumps and a Cobra pump (as an example) - final build will use THREE GT pumps.

The Y-connector was custom-drilled to add the third hose connection.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-TripleFuelHat/P1020447.JPG

The Dual hat will be going into my car for my Vortech build with my new Cobra motor. I will also eventually be converting my car over to return style in order to make the tuning easier.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-TripleFuelHat/P1020449.JPG


Some nice large fittings ready to connect to the big -10 fuel lines to the front :D


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-TripleFuelHat/P1020451.JPG

-10 outlet, and -8 for the return.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-TripleFuelHat/P1020454.JPG

Fitment in the Marauder gas tank has already been successfully tested. The hoses will be shortened in the final fitted version of the product.

[sailsmen]

What kind of sock or socks set up?

Please post the power supply to those three pumps including the connectors.

[MOTOWN]

Looks like your moving right along on your fuel hat, nice!

[Marauderjack]

Why will you need THREE fuel pumps......got to be a better way I would think??:confused:

Very nice fab work though!!:beer:

Good Luck!!

[Vortech347]

Why will you need THREE fuel pumps......got to be a better way I would think??:confused:

Very nice fab work though!!:beer:

Good Luck!!

Agree'd. Two 400lph's would do the trick nicely for damn near whatever you wanted to throw at it. Unless you are going for 1200HP.

[lifespeed]

The probability of failure is directly proportional to the number of parts.

[JoeBoomz]

The probability of failure is directly proportional to the number of parts.

Or, if one of three pumps fail, the other two keep going and save the motor....?? :D

[lifespeed]

Or, if one of three pumps fail, the other two keep going and save the motor....?? :D

That depends on the failure mode of the pump. You would need to have separate fuses for each pump so a short-circuit electrical failure didn't take out all three. Does the hydraulic portion of the pump fail "open" or "short" (blows all the fuel from the good pumps through the failed pump).

While your idea sounds good on the surface, it won't just work that way without deliberate design. You may want to calculate the fuel required for your desired horsepower plus safety margin and see if two pumps aren't overkill already.

[JoeBoomz]

What kind of sock or socks set up?

Please post the power supply to those three pumps including the connectors.

To answer the above question and clear up some of the other comments about fuses, etc,
http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/36-101.htm

The wiring still has to be done, it hasn't happened yet in the car so no pics.


The strainers are the L-shaped type (for the two side by side pumps), with the third running this style:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380445718040


Sorry guys I'm not working on this project directly (dad is), so some of the answers might be slower coming. I know his eventual goal is over 1000HP and this is the reason for the overkill on the fuel system.

[Sully008]

Interesting project, very cool! Is he planning on running E85 in the future?

[jwibbity]

Subscribing!!!!!

[JoeBoomz]

Hello everyone, I know it's been awhile since any updates were posted on this project. We were derailed for a few months working on my car (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88511), and I've just been lazy getting pics together for posting.

So, without further ado, here are ~50 new pictures of this project!


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6827.JPG

With winter started and the roads too crappy to drive on, it was time to do another engine pull. Here's dad's NA stock motor, works PERFECTLY and has about 20K miles on it.

As you'll see in a bit, he had some mods, including K&N CAI, Steeda underdrive pulleys, Kooks headers, and a PI 3000 Stall torque converter.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6828.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6829.JPG


We also pulled the transmission right out, in an attempt to make life easier dealing with the attached headers for both take-out and reinstallation.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6832.JPG

4R70W, stock unmodified.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6833.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6834.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6835.JPG


Here's a look at the stock flywheel, and the back of the headers.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6836.JPG

...again...

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6838.JPG

[JoeBoomz]

And out comes the motor.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6846.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6864.JPG



Check out the belt dust on the timing cover and alternator!!!
Between the steeda underdrives, 6250 RPM, and the alternator clutch turning on and off, there was cause for belt slip.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6866.JPG


Here's a nice look at the stock motor with Kooks headers.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6868.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6870.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6872.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6873.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6875.JPG


View of stock motor from the back, as from factory. No cooling mod. BOOOO!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6877.JPG


Here's a neat shot of the Kooks X-pipe hanging in place.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6880.JPG

[JoeBoomz]

Dad has put in long hours trying to design a nice return fuel setup, hours that aren't fairly reflected by pictures. But here are some shots of the rails and fittings mockup on the Terminator:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6952.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6954.JPG

Another glimpse of the stock motor and headers:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6881.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6883.JPG


Old motor (left) and new motor (right):
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6887.JPG


Here's something I noticed while looking into the Marauder stock crossover tube (COT) - looks like a big flow restriction there to me!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6888.JPG



A rare look into the ass end of a Whipple:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/IMG_6951.JPG



On the new Terminator, the stock cam covers come off for inspection, and will be replaced with something prettier. Notice also the headers are MOVED to the new motor, which was a HUGE job as the bolt accessibility on the Kooks is horrible.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04%2015.34.52.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04%2015.35.02.jpg

[JoeBoomz]

WARNING - ENGINE P0RN!


These red cam covers were a great eBay find, they are professionally powder-coated torch red.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 15.59.49.jpg


Yes, this IS the stuff DREAMS are made of.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.01.56.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.02.08.jpg


Sometimes it's just fun to peek under the covers.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.21.42.jpg


The machine shop needed some time to make the blower elbow fit over the fuel rail. There wasn't enough clearance for both originally.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.45.53.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.46.07.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.49.52.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.50.04.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.54.38.jpg


We've got a catch can for each PCV, here is the one for the passenger side. Notice it's on the rear of the passenger side cover. I'm guessing the covers are from an older Lincoln or something. They're not Marauder covers, nor are they 03/04 Cobra covers.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-04 16.54.57.jpg

[CWright]

Man that is HOT!!!!!!!

[Mebot]

Freakin' badass!

sent from a Samsung Galaxy far far away..

[JoeBoomz]

Dad also tore out all the ABS stuff, and replaced it with this, alongside of the TCE stainless brake lines:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.07.25.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.07.36.jpg


Aside from the TCE hardware, the rest of the hoses came from Greenline Hoses and Fittings, a local shop. DOT approved and pressure tested. Braided stainless with plastic covering on top.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.07.42.jpg



TCE's kit:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.08.16.jpg


TCE on rear wheel:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.08.26.jpg


We also picked up some 1.5" wheel spacers on eBay to try:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.08.33.jpg


I ordered dad a COT plug from Jerry:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.36.06.jpg


These are built for the Marauder and do NOT fit the Cobra COT. We took it to the machine shop to remove a thread and carve out some extra material from the bottom of the plug, to make it fit the cobra COT. A gorgeous product Jerry! (the black one will go on my car)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.36.14.jpg

[JoeBoomz]

SILICONE HOSES! Yes, blue ones.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.56.04.jpg


Made for Cobras, if you want them, talk to this guy here
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/781847-want-silicone-coolant-hoses-step-inside.html
...or buy them on his eBay auction.

These hoses are not fit to replace stock Marauder hoses, but work for us because we have a Cobra setup and are getting a Cobra radiator.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.57.32.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.57.51.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/01-14-2014-DadCobra/2014-01-12 16.58.01.jpg

[JoeBoomz]

That's all the updates for now. The current set of goals are to finish cooling by end of January, finish fuel by end of February, install motor in March, tune in April, and enjoy afterwards. The project is weekends only, and we are CONSTANTLY stuck waiting for parts to come in (i.e., fuel fittings, radiators, coolers...), or having to take things to the machine shop for "adjustments."

[ajdereicup]

That engine is freaking sexy as hell. Very nice and good work

[Mr. Man]

Looks great. Post a video of startup if you can.

[Baconbit]

What kinds of numbers are you hoping to achieve with this setup?

[Mebot]

What kinds of numbers are you hoping to achieve with this setup?

Probably around 50 hp

[JoeBoomz]

Probably around 50 hp


We are hoping for at least 60

[RacerX]

I see a problem with the new setup. Send engine to me ASAP, eh? :D

[Mebot]

We are hoping for at least 60

Going to be a stretch as I don't see any nitrous applications




:cool:

sent from a Samsung Galaxy far far away..

[guspech750]

That is bad ass!!


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Duvalballer]

That setup is going to be a monster, good luck. Can't wait to see what kind of numbers it puts down.

[SGT_MERC]

Or, if one of three pumps fail, the other two keep going and save the motor....?? :D

I'm getting ready to replace both of my fuel pumps. One went out and the pressure is bleeding back through the dead pump. I'm installing check valves, between the fuel hat and Y block, to prevent this from happening. If I lose a pump, the other will be plenty to get home. I think that is good insurance.

[Chayton]

Is it ok if I post a post one of your pictures on instagram? (with credit to you of course) that engine is too sexy... :drool:

[JoeBoomz]

Is it ok if I post a post one of your pictures on instagram? (with credit to you of course) that engine is too sexy... :drool:

Sure, once they're on the internet, Google already has them too, I'm sure they'll come up in peoples' image searches.... :beer:

[JoeBoomz]

Time for a Valentine's update in this thread!


Dad really wants to ensure everything stays cool on this car, he has put two coolers up front behind the grill

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7396.JPG


(1 for engine oil, 1 for transmission)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7398.JPG


These fit just perfect here!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7399.JPG

Another bracket will be added for support but the spacing is just perfect.


Here's the brand and model of cooler used:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7394.JPG




He also has a Fluidyne radiator on order for the engine coolant.

[JoeBoomz]

A bunch of work went into planning and laying out the fuel lines atop the engine. These things are as big as a garden hose and the injectors will have a ton of fuel on tap to suck up!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7358.JPG


Youtube is great, it taught us how to put the ends on easily:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7361.JPG

We pressure tested with an air compressor - no leaks!


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7363.JPG

Aeromotive fuel regulator.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7364.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7365.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7368.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7371.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7373.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7380.JPG




http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7387.JPG


(the last shot is my favorite)

[JoeBoomz]

Those big -10 fuel lines will need something hefty to fill them up, and as aforementioned, Dad wants three GT pumps in the tank to do the work.

The custom fuel had fabrication is done and we spent a bunch of time mounting the pumps and ensuring they do not move, and then connecting all the hoses and check-valves.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7461.JPG


After much trial and error we figured out the best way to align the filters so they could flex nicely while we inserted the hat into the tank, while having minimal overlap.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7463.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7464.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7465.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7468.JPG



While the hat itself was successfully tested for fitment in the tank, we haven't tried it yet with the filters. Clearance-wise on the outside, we have lots of room to work with the hoses and fittings by the tank:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7457.JPG



But until we actually get this install complete, I won't say whether it fits 100% or not ;)

[CWright]

:2thumbs::pimp:

[JoeBoomz]

I mentioned a few months ago above that the fuel rail and Whipple elbow needed modifications to fit together; here are some more detailed pics of that:


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7353.JPG

(39# injectors were sacrificed here for staging only, we have swapped back to 80's now that the fitment is all cleared up)


Underside of Whipple elbow:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7354.JPG


Here's a clear pic of how much material was removed safely:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7356.JPG


NOW it fits nicely!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7376.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7377.JPG

Clearance will be tight under the elbow against the cam cover with the fuel line and wiring harness in place, but I'm pretty sure we can get it all under there and keep it pretty.



We also ran into another interesting snag when pulling the stock motor - looks like someone screwed up when they built the original harness and forgot a line. There was an additional wire added at (I'm guessing) the factory that runs right from the PCM plugs, down to the transmission harness plugs on the transmissions.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7391.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7392.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-13-2014-DadCobraMotor/IMG_7393.JPG


I think it was Pin 12 on the transmission harness which is the starter relay. I would bet that they tried to fire up the car for the first time, and it didn't start. This would have been a real pain to track down and patch up, and unfortunately they kind of did a hack job fixing it.

We didn't find it until we started lifting the engine out; we had to remove all of the harnesses together with it because of this extra line (the harnesses are tied together by it).

[Zack]

Couple things:
-Looks great.
-You could have made your life easier and ran the fuel in a constant loop, instead of feeding both rails.
-Why did you leave the pressure check valves in the mix?
-You shouldn't use GT pumps in a return style fuel system.
-Have you ever looked at how small the basket is in the bottom of the tank?
-When you do your final wiring, you need to run one pump full time and trigger the others off boost. Your fuel will get stupid hot if you don't do this.
-Lastly, You only need 2 Fuel pumps.

Sometimes over-engineering is detrimental. Otherwise, everything looks purty.

[Zack]

Lastly, lose the bulky PCV line under the blower. Just plug it....not necessary whatsoever.

[Vortech347]

Two walbro 400lph's would only be $200 and feed whatever you need. Like Zack said ditch the pressure valves (The little white boxes between the hat and pumps) and don't use the GT pumps for return style. Just one of those pumps is in my fox and its safely making the power it does with room to spare. We have two of them in a friend's 700HP 2v and both being on together is to much fuel. The regulator sounds like a washing machine. So the second pump comes on once 4psi is reached.

Two of the hoses on the pumps look like they are about to kink. That could also be an issue later on.

The Machine work to make stuff fit looks sweet.

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

The fuel is being built for future consideration so we don't need to add any more. Dad is eyeballing a 4L crusher in the long term, hence the apparent overkill. Likely we won't use more than two pumps at once, but we didn't want any chance of fuel shortage.

We decided to keep the check valves in case of a pump failure.

Though the hose in the pic looks kinked, it really isn't.

What's the issue with GT pumps in a return system? I'm sure I've seen it done successfully. And they are more capable and quieter than the W's.

[MOTOWN]

Looking good Joe! i hope the two coolers doesnt cause the car to run hot if too much airflow is blocked to the radiator. looking forward to seeing the new radiator as well, looks outstanding!

[Zack]

You don't need the check valves, they are a restriction. You have a better chance of winning the lottery than a fuel pump coming apart

Please know that with that much fuel pump, you can't EVER go below 1/4 tank of gas. The pumps will suck the basket dry.

And FYI a -8 line will support 1500rwhp on regular gas.

[JoeBoomz]

You don't need the check valves, they are a restriction. You have a better chance of winning the lottery than a fuel pump coming apart


I'm getting ready to replace both of my fuel pumps. One went out and the pressure is bleeding back through the dead pump. I'm installing check valves, between the fuel hat and Y block, to prevent this from happening. If I lose a pump, the other will be plenty to get home. I think that is good insurance.

Zack says you need to go buy more lotto tickets :)


The design for this build is based on numerous Cobra posts, both end users and vendors, who have gone through constantly upgrading their fuel systems to support more air. In the end, many have decided to go return style, and those with big numbers need the three pumps and 80lb injectors to meet the fuel requirements.


Again, I do like reading from others experiences and there are tons of different opinions out there on the subject of fueling. Here are some more good threads for reading from over at SVTPerformance:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/751104-gas-fuel-system-upgrade-options-what-you-need-know.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/distillery-374/867396-cp-e-jpc-fuel-hat-triple-pump-setup-2003-2004-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/distillery-374/867105-triple-pump-vs-dual-pump-heat-test.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/distillery-374/811618-e85-fuel-system-03-cobra.html

[SGT_MERC]

Have you experienced any issues with the ABS delete block?

[slickster]

Question befor I get my sw long tube headers I have a termi in my mm now do I need to get headers for a 03 cobra or mm or the fit is all the same?

[MOTOWN]

Question befor I get my sw long tube headers I have a termi in my mm now do I need to get headers for a 03 cobra or mm or the fit is all the same?

You need Marauder specific headers

[JoeBoomz]

Have you experienced any issues with the ABS delete block?


Will post up once we get the car running. Pulling out the fuel tank this weekend to put the pumps in carefully ;)

[Comin' in Hot]

Will post up once we get the car running. Pulling out the fuel tank this weekend to put the pumps in carefully ;)

the tank comes out easily... going back in is a marauder right of passage. the bolts are about 1/2" too short and its almost impossible to get the nuts started again.... avoid it if you can

[MOTOWN]

Will post up once we get the car running. Pulling out the fuel tank this weekend to put the pumps in carefully ;)

You can actually install your pumps without dropping the tank, just move the passenger side tailpipe out of the way.

[Zack]

^^^^that
I've never dropped a tank to remove the hat

[Blown3.8]

If you pull the tank buy new studs for it. They shear when you install them that is why they are too short upon reassembly.

[Marauderjack]

If you pull the tank buy new studs for it. They shear when you install them that is why they are too short upon reassembly.

No truer words have been spoken here!!:beer:

I fought those damn short studs for a couple hours and finally went and got the new ones......piece of cake with them!!:bows:

But......listen to Zack.....no need to drop the tank!!:shake:

[JoeBoomz]

So about a month ago we got the fuel pumps installed. I've been procrastinating from posting the updates due to some of the replies last time.
I'll be waiting for another round of "you don't need to drop the tank," even after you guys see the size of this fuel assembly while being inserted into the tank. Absolutely impossible to install without dropping the tank, unless you feel like removing the rear axle.


To start, I want to say that there is a distinct lack of fuel tank pics on here, so let's begin by looking into where the fuel hat mounts, and at the BASKET that is inside the tank that most people don't know about.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.10.47.jpg

Here, the fuel tank is sitting vertically on the floor. We are above it, looking down into the tank through the hole where the fuel hat is mounted. You can't see into the tank from this angle without removing it.

The bottom of the fuel pump assembly (and the fuel "sock" that sits on the end of the pump) sits inside a basket inside of the tank. The purpose of the basket, I'd presume, is to reduce the effects of splashing in the tank due to driving movements.

Here's a more clear look at that basket. It's actually a bit small and you need to plan for it if you are changing the configuration of the fuel socks (filters) on the end of your pumps.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.10.37.jpg



Anyway, getting dad's 3-GT-pump rig into the tank, complete with the fuel socks, was a chore. We had to try numerous angles and approaches to get it in. It would have been impossible without removing the tank.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.07.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.15.jpg


The fuel socks have to be bent to get them inside of the tank:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.18.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.22.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.30.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.31.jpg



We had almost zero clearance on all sides to the thick GT pump baskets, but the assembly was built to exact fit and we got it in.



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.40.jpg


"is it in yet?!" Haha!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.43.jpg


continued in next post...

[JoeBoomz]

Almost there:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.34.44.jpg


Now, some rare pictures for you guys. We are looking INTO the tank from the fuel fill hole on the top side, towards where the hat is inserted.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.35.21.jpg


The big white thing in the front is an exhaust valve, I'm assuming to relieve air pressure in the tank if things heat up. Pressurized gasoline tanks are dangerous.


Here we are slowly inserting the assembly into the basket in the bottom of the tank, making sure the fuel socks end up exactly where we need them to. They do bend up at the ends to fit the basket, but flow restriction will be minimal.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.35.24.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.35.40.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.36.13.jpg



And we're done installing the pumps into the tank!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.15.42.jpg

[Marauderjack]

I can see why ya wanted to remove the tank now but do ya really need all those fuel pumps??:eek::confused:

[JoeBoomz]

We did need new studs and mounting hardware from Ford to reinstall the tank. The factory studs are broken off to prevent tank puncture in a crumple event, and therefore are too short to re-use if the bolts are removed entirely. New studs are longer and you can easily get the tank hung again after they are changed.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-16 17.22.04.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-16 17.22.31.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-16 17.16.13.jpg



We also got the Whipple elbow carved out a bit more to ensure we had space for the wiring harness:


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 12.47.42.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 12.48.03.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 12.48.20.jpg



Lastly, Dad ordered a sexy carbon fiber JLT intake to ensure the whipple has air to breathe:


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.45.47.jpg

That's an SCT ba3000 MAF.


Quite the fancy air filter they use:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.46.44.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.46.52.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-11-2014-DadTripleFP/2014-03-08 15.47.09.jpg

It wasn't cheap, but it's a beautiful product!

[MOTOWN]

Outstanding illustration as usual Joe! i feel like i was there helping! lol, you had better keep that tank at least 1/2 tank or better, or that basket is going to be sucked dry in a heartbeat!

Nice setup , your dad should never have a fuel supply issue, i can only imagine what the pressure regulator sounds like, mines sounds like a Maytag with the dual Walbros running.

[hotford]

Looks killer nice set up for sure .....little over kill for me but he'll ya looks amazing, I can appreciate the custom work man ship
I too went return style and modified the hat but to accept a single walbro 400 and it supports well over 600 wrhp with my current set up,
You have enough for double with your set up.....lol

[1stMerc]

D**n Joe that's a wild fuel setup. Thanks for taking the time to get enlightening pics and posting.

[blkZooM]

Being that you put three pumps in the tank how difficult do you think it is to put two 465?

[JoeBoomz]

Being that you put three pumps in the tank how difficult do you think it is to put two 465?

Dual pumps would be much easier to fit. But I haven't seen the 465 - I'd assume they're similar in dimension to the GT (or stock) pumps.

[JoeBoomz]

Whew! A few months went by fast there, we need to get this car back on the road to enjoy summer! We've taken quite a few weekends off on this project, due to yard work, family commitments, and other distractions.

In the meantime dad has spent numerous hours on reworking the harness
- Move the alternator wiring to the driver side
- Move the IAC and throttle wiring to the passenger side
- Move the fuel rail pressure sensor wire to the driver side
- Remove the EGR wiring

There may have been a couple of other tweaks to the Marauder harness that I am forgetting to mention here, but those are the main ones. Being a perfectionist like me, he took the time to solder the new connections, loom it up, and tape it so it's better than factory.

We also ordered MORE PARTS! We don't want the car to run out of breath, so when I was able to source a single blade inlet from Whipple, dad couldn't refuse. Here is the comparison between it and the stock inlets:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040513.JPG

The single blade inlet will allow more air to flow through without restriction - easier for the blower to suck it in.



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040518.JPG

We had the new elbow modified the same way as the original one, to accommodate the fuel rail, -10 fuel line, and the wiring harness nicely between it and the cam cover.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040522.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040533.JPG



Stock throttle body is being replaced by an Accufab single-blade TB. Open wide!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040538.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040546.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040552.JPG



Here's the whole thing assembled again with the JLT intake:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040565.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040577.JPG

[JoeBoomz]

After a few months of delays in the order, our METCO hardware finally arrived. Though Tommy at Sparta didn't actually sell them to me, he helped me out on them, and a big shout out to him for that. If you want these, talk to him.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8115.JPG

I need to say - I can not be any more impressed than I am by this product. These are beautiful. Pictures don't do it justice. If you have held these in your hands before, you will understand what I am talking about. They are perfectly machined, very solid, lightweight, and almost look space-age. Once they're on the car, they make the parts surrounding them look like old garbage.

High price aside, I can't recommend these enough.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040637.JPG


The onus is on the end user to attach the grease nipples, then grease the bushings before installation.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040631.JPG


A terrific pic of the watts link upgraded:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040627.JPG


Anyone wondering where the RIDE HEIGHT SENSOR IS - look at the black thing attached halfway through the link on the right side of the pic. It is attached upwards to the sensor. To adjust your air suspension ride height, you move this bracket left or right on the watts link.


Now, here's a comparison to the stock parts that came off the car.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8258.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040596.JPG


This next pic is my favorite! Look how flimsy the stock link is compared to the Metco one. The control arms on the wheels are the same deal.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8259.JPG


Installation is pretty straightforward - just nuts and bolts. There is a tough spot by the passenger side air suspension bag where the bolt won't fit out easily, but if you're gentle and patient you can get it out.

[JoeBoomz]

Dad wanted a Carbon Fiber drive shaft. There's lots of discussion about the benefits of CF shafts compared to steel or aluminum ones. Some people say it's a waste of money. We haven't tried it so we figured we should.

The guaranteed benefits:
- Lower rotational mass (it's half the weight of the stock aluminum shaft)
- Much greater resistance to flexing (apparently less power is absorbed by the shaft and more transferred to wheels)

This is a REALLY cool comparison video:
hjErH4_1fks


Anyway, we sourced the shaft from Precision Shaft Technologies (http://pstds.com/). I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8318.JPG
(I have never been so jealous in my life of someone's big black shaft)


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8320.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040656.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040659.JPG


Next to the stock shaft:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040642.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040652.JPG


The U-joints are also UPGRADED to 1350 joints, almost twice as big as the stock joints:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8323.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8324.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040645.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040648.JPG



Can't comment yet on how it drives, but every little bit counts in this build. It's a beautiful product and a real shame that people really won't see it on the underside of the car. The thing is a work of art. If you want one, talk to Mark at PST, and mention that Joe from Canada sent you!

[JoeBoomz]

LOTS of work to do on the vehicle's fluids systems!

New tanks for most of the fluids:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040607.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040613.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040622.JPG


A FLUIDYNE radiator (for a Cobra), with DERALE high-performance shroud and fans:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8331.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040653.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8329.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040665.JPG



And the car as it currently sits still:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/IMG_8327.JPG

(we put the rear wheels on ramps for the suspension changes)


Oh, and dad also put on Addco sway bars, both front and rear. MUCH thicker than stock. Sorry I missed that one, and no pics.


We're getting closer to the end though - the motor is going in the weekend of July 4th (while you guys are partying).

Not wanting to pay to rebuild the stock transmission to handle the new power, instead we have a TCI built transmission on order that is slated to arrive by the end of June.
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/super-streetfightertm-4r70w-transmission-98-04-4-6lhtml/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-434322
Dad already has a Precision Industries 3000 stall TC for it.


After that, it's a matter of finishing up the brackets for the fuel filter (under the hood), fuel regulator, alternator, intercooler, and putting it all together. Hopefully we can start the tuning by mid- to end of July. Will keep everyone "posted" :D

[JBeezy]

I'm speechless

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[MOTOWN]

Dayum Joe! some body pass me a towel!!!!!!!!!!!!

[lji372]

Dayum Joe! some body pass me a towel!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here ya go!








:lol:

[Joe Walsh]

Dad wanted a Carbon Fiber drive shaft. There's lots of discussion about the benefits of CF shafts compared to steel or aluminum ones. Some people say it's a waste of money. We haven't tried it so we figured we should.

The guaranteed benefits:
- Lower rotational mass (it's half the weight of the stock aluminum shaft)
- Much greater resistance to flexing (apparently less power is absorbed by the shaft and more transferred to wheels)

This is a REALLY cool comparison video:
hjErH4_1fks


Anyway, we sourced the shaft from Precision Shaft Technologies (http://pstds.com/).

Next to the stock shaft:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-12-2014-Driveshaft-Metco/P1040642.JPG

Can't comment yet on how it drives, but every little bit counts in this build. It's a beautiful product and a real shame that people really won't see it on the underside of the car. The thing is a work of art. If you want one, talk to Mark at PST, and mention that Joe from Canada sent you!

That is sweet!
I had PST make a CF driveshaft for me as well!

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12250&highlight=PST+Driveshaft

It runs so smooooooth!

[JoeBoomz]

That is sweet!

I had PST make a CF driveshaft for me as well!



http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12250&highlight=PST+Driveshaft



It runs so smooooooth!


Mike had said he made one for a marauder a long time ago - must have been yours!

Good to see you are still happy with it after TEN YEARS!

We noticed the same issue in the spline but will wait till the new TCI transmission arrives to confirm its fitment.

[MOTOWN]

Mike had said he made one for a marauder a long time ago - must have been yours!

Good to see you are still happy with it after TEN YEARS!

We noticed the same issue in the spline but will wait till the new TCI transmission arrives to confirm its fitment.

I was wondering why the PST shaft (slip yoke) seems to be a couple inches shorter, but that would explain what Joe Walsh was talking about with splines not present for the first 2 3/8" of the slip yoke.

[Comin' in Hot]

Make sure the trans has a long output shaft and long tail housing for the marauder or CVPI, if it's the one from the mustang or civilian CV or MGM, your driveshaft will be too short and you will need a 1" spacer.

I also noticed you say you have 1350 u-joints, inland empire is the only one I could find that makes a 1350 yoke for a 4r70w. You could use an AOD yoke as the splines are the same, but then you will need an AOD tail housing because the outer slip yoke diameter is slightly smaller.

I only know all this because I went through driveline hell. And don't want to see you go through the same thing.

[Comin' in Hot]

If you happen to need a spacer, I have one with the correct bolts that I no longer need

[Comin' in Hot]

If your splines aren't recessed and you have 1350 u-joints, it sounds like it's an AOD yoke.

[JoeBoomz]

Make sure the trans has a long output shaft and long tail housing for the marauder or CVPI, if it's the one from the mustang or civilian CV or MGM, your driveshaft will be too short and you will need a 1" spacer.

I also noticed you say you have 1350 u-joints, inland empire is the only one I could find that makes a 1350 yoke for a 4r70w. You could use an AOD yoke as the splines are the same, but then you will need an AOD tail housing because the outer slip yoke diameter is slightly smaller.

I only know all this because I went through driveline hell. And don't want to see you go through the same thing.


If your splines aren't recessed and you have 1350 u-joints, it sounds like it's an AOD yoke.


If you happen to need a spacer, I have one with the correct bolts that I no longer need


Awesome info, thanks a ton. I'll get in touch with TCI to confirm it will be plug-and-play for us. I really appreciate your taking the time to post this.

We know the yoke is correct because it fits perfectly into the factory transmission we pulled from the car. We'll just have to ensure the tail shaft length is correct.
:beer:

[Comin' in Hot]

You might want to call you driveshaft manufacturer and find out exactly what that yoke it is first, the AOD yoke's outer barrel diameter is smaller by like a few thousandths. Unless they do something I never heard of. Most of my info comes from Denny's driveshaft and Dynotech. I also know for sure that's not an Inland Empire yoke because they have a bolt-in style u-joint mounting caps.

[blkZooM]

Am I the only one that can't see the pictures anymore?

[justbob]

I seez em.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[JBeezy]

Eye's sees them too

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Zack]

I really wish you guys would have welded a sump to the bottom of the tank, or removed that basket.

That is dangerous to the engine the way its all configured. Did you bother to check the clearance between the bottom of the fuel socks and floor of the tank? Its a crucial measurement.

In any case, awesome work!

[jay03merc]

Any updates lately?

[JoeBoomz]

Any updates lately?

Sadly, no, it's been taking a lot of time to get mounting brackets needed fabbed up exactly as needed, and we've been doing lots of "little" things like running wiring for gauges and power, putting holes through the firewall, etc.

In the meantime I've been looking for transmission builders, because TCI turned out not being a good solution. They didn't know about the different tail shaft lengths and weren't willing to guarantee us the transmission would fit the Marauder. In the end I just ordered a bunch of parts from PATC and the tail shaft lube mod from Blue Oval, and we'll get the rebuild done locally.

Hopefully we get the motor put in sometime mid-august and have the transmission rebuilt close to the same time, so we can get somewhere close to where we can start to tune the car!

[MOTOWN]

Go with Lentech , there in Canada , http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html

[Comin' in Hot]

Go with Lentech , there in Canada , http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html

My car has a Lentech trans, it's a great piece. It was put in my car before I bought it. When I was ordered nobody thought about the different tail shaft/ housing and it came with the shorter parts. As I stated earlier this was because of a lot of my issues. Once I figured out I called Lentech. They told me they only use a short tail shaft because it's stronger than the long one. But if I sent the transmission back and swap it out for thousand dollars, not bad considering it requires a complete tear down of the transmission. So if you order from them, just verify what it's going in and that you need the longer parts.

[JoeBoomz]

Time for some updates on this "epic" (timing) project.

TRANSMISSION - we said screw it with all of the big rebuilders - they all want an arm, leg and left nut for a rebuilt transmission, and that doesn't even include shipping to where we are. Seriously, I bought my complete Cobra pull for less than they're asking.

So instead, we bought a master rebuild kit from PATC (#12 on this crazy webpage: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aode.htm)

Interceptor master rebuild kit. This the same exact parts list we use in our Interceptor transmission. This package deal comes with: a quality master rebuild kit with Alto clutches, the new mechanical diode kit that came on the market in 1999, eight count Alto Red Eagle direct clutch Power Pack, high performance Fairbanks TransAction Kit, oversize overdrive servo, carbon fiber overdrive band, heavy duty converter with oversize clutch (#13) with 1800 stall speed, filter, spiral snap ring, pressure spring and valve or pressure spring and the freight is free anywhere in the 48 United States. ...without their 1800 stall converter, and then added a hardened intermediate shaft to the order. We will have a local guy rebuild our working low miles transmission for under 2K and save about 3K getting one built by the other guys. The JMOD steps are covered in the Fairbanks TransAction Kit, which comes with improved springs as well.

We also got this tailshaft forced lube cooling mod from Blue Oval: http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=74



With winter approaching again, we've been working on it less and less and only on weekends. Courtesy of Alberta, here's what we had a week ago (Sep 8):

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9086.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9087.JPG




Lots of wiring being done now, the same amount as I showed in my stereo install thread and most of the same steps. We have also been mounting gauges and running wires:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9076.JPG


I never cared for the ricer pod before, but now that I have it all set up in Dad's car, it's starting to grow on me. One problem is it takes away from the sleeper aspect of the car.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9077.JPG



Finishing up all the measuring, fitting, and mounting of the coolers:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9078.JPG

(engine oil and trans fluid coolers made be DERALE)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9079.JPG




Hot marauders go slow. Dad doesn't want a slow marauder. This is a $1400 FLUIDYNE radiator and DERALE set of fans and shroud.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9081.JPG


I am looking forward to datalogging his car vs. mine (with stock rad and smaller fan) and comparing the engine temp differences. The car really likes to retard the spark at elevated temperatures.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9080.JPG

The cooler at the bottom is for steering fluid. This car is getting the best of everything.

[JoeBoomz]

Here's our solution to the Alternator mounting problem.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9071.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9072.JPG

The alternator is using the Cobra mounting spot, but we've rotated it upwards and have connected it to the upper pulley bridge via this bracket. The ABS module in the car was removed, so we should have space for it in the engine compartment. We'll find out for sure when we finally drop the motor in ;)




Dad's machine shop also threw together a quick PCV connector that looks great:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9073.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-14-2014-DadUpdate/IMG_9074.JPG



We need to finish up some more wiring before we drop the engine in, it's much easier to run through the firewall with the engine removed. But after that we're ready to put the motor in, and get the transmission rebuilt in the meantime. We likely won't be driving it until spring, but the end is in sight.

[Ourobos]

Thanks for the new desktop background.. Sick..

[CNTLOSE]

Awesome build!

[Zack]

Your work is ridiculously awesome.
FYI, the stock radiator will keep the temps in check with a PD blower and the AC running full time.

[sflrainmaker01]

Very nice! :up: Do I sense new eaton swap alt brackets?.......

[JohnE]

Nice looking setup. Good luck with the build.

One suggestion, ditch the Gatorback belt for the supercharger. It has a tendency to stretch too much under load.

[JoeBoomz]

On Boxing Day we dropped the motor into the car, headers and all.

Sorry for the delay - life's been VERY busy - but here are the pics taken along the way:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050619.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050635.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050639.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050641.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050643.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050646.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050648.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050650.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050652.JPG

[JoeBoomz]

The alternator fits perfectly where the ABS hardware used to be, and the Metco bracket clears the front (Addco) sway bar at the front of the oil pan.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050660.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050661.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050663.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050665.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050669.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/12-26-2014-DadMotorDrop/P1050673.JPG



Still need to reroute the MAF wiring and make a bunch of other wiring connections in the trunk for fuel.
We did some work yesterday on the fuel lines connecting the hoses to the rails, and next weekend we'll be installing the rebuilt transmission.

[Lowndex]

Awesome! Doing a build with your Dad - it does not get any better.

This will be a special ride.

[MOTOWN]

Dayuum Joe! this one of the cleanest builds out there.

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks guys, we're really hoping this year will be "the year" haha!

This epic project has dragged on...and on...and on... It's been almost 3 years since the motor first arrived!

[CWright]

Buddy, that is looking great!!

[RubberCtyRauder]

Sweet set-up!! looks awesome!!

[sailsmen]

Good things take time. Rome wasn't built in a day!

[Gerry24]

That looks insane.... WOW BAD A$$

[mm svt]

very nice job sir. I have to say job well done to you for your devotion to the guides you have posted.

if you find an oil filter that fit in there please post the part number, I found one and still had to cave in the top dome on it, the cobra oil filter adapter will still come out with the engine in if you have to and there are better coolers (p71) for that gem of engine.
My MM SVT will be at Mo's this Friday for the Dyno Tune, hope it goes well, I'm not
looking for 1000 hp (yet) just adding some pep to its step.

[JohnE]

Very impressive build, thanks for sharing.

[babbage]

very nice job sir. I have to say job well done to you for your devotion to the guides you have posted.

if you find an oil filter that fit in there please post the part number, I found one and still had to cave in the top dome on it, the cobra oil filter adapter will still come out with the engine in if you have to and there are better coolers (p71) for that gem of engine.
My MM SVT will be at Mo's this Friday for the Dyno Tune, hope it goes well, I'm not
looking for 1000 hp (yet) just adding some pep to its step.

If you have a high volume oil pump why not just get a remote oil filter kit mount, then you can run a big filter..?

Awesome build Joe! :bows: Any brake upgrades? (sorry just a thought) :)

[JoeBoomz]

very nice job sir. I have to say job well done to you for your devotion to the guides you have posted.

if you find an oil filter that fit in there please post the part number, I found one and still had to cave in the top dome on it, the cobra oil filter adapter will still come out with the engine in if you have to and there are better coolers (p71) for that gem of engine.



Ah yes, we are using an oil filter relocation kit (Transdapt IIRC) - it runs the larger PH8A or equivalent filter. Will be mounted to the frame before the front driver wheel. Pics to follow.

The stock filters definitely won't fit in between that adapter and the frame.




If you have a high volume oil pump why not just get a remote oil filter kit mount, then you can run a big filter..?

Awesome build Joe! :bows: Any brake upgrades? (sorry just a thought) :)


Brake upgrades not yet - we want to go fast and don't care about stopping! :D

Seriously though, we'll probably be talking with Todd at TCE in the next year or so about these puppies: http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/marauder/kits-17/

[lji372]

Saweeeeet
:bows:
:bows:
:bows:
:bows:
:bows:

[JoeBoomz]

It runs, it drives, it's FREAKING fast. Pics to follow soon. Still tuning.

[chief455]

It runs, it drives, it's FREAKING fast. Pics to follow soon. Still tuning.
cool deal.
I have an '03 Cobra motor with little Bullet cams waiting behind my car.
I sold the Whipple to free up cash, until the day comes.
Inspirational thread :beer:

[1stMerc]

Anymore updates?

[JoeBoomz]

Really sorry guys, I owe you lots of pictures and updates. Had to break for winter, and fighting some electrical issues.

As you saw, we were able to drive it a bit last fall, just a few days of cautious testing and seeing where we were at with fuel, etc. It shreds the tires ridiculously easily, even starting out in 2nd. But we had electrical issues.

The massive Derale 16825 radiator fans draw TONS of power. Added to the two other Derale fans on the single coolers, we were just pulling too much power when all the fans were running.


The first alternator we had was a DB Electrical 220 amp unit from eBay. It was a great alternator but just couldn't put out enough power at idle RPM's.

So we found Matthew at Mechman, who answered a slew of questions for us and spec'd a built 240amp unit that can provide 150amps @ 900 RPM. Cost was over $600 USD with the trip to Canada. Take a look at this beast:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1060155.JPG


Fitment is perfect as the casing is designed for 2003/2004 Cobra, but they did build it entirely from scratch.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/20150718_100636.jpg

The alternator works perfectly and has surpassed all of our expectations.


Now that we had enough power on tap, we were constantly popping the main breaker to the alternator or to the battery in the trunk. The huge 0ga power wires were HOT to the touch coming off the alternator. We needed to better control the fans and their power usage.

We went through a couple of sets of simple on/off temperature-based fan controllers trying to manage the power usage. The controllers from China literally blew apart, smoke and smell everywhere. Dad re-wired everything several times over the course of months.

Next we tried a Derale 16795 PWM controller to run the two Derale 16825 fans. The PWM controller is intended to start the fans off slow, and ramp them up slowly as needed to meet a target temperature. This is so the system doesn't have a huge power drop as the fans kick in (at full speed on a standard on/off controller).

Here's the Derale 16795 PWM controller all hooked up:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1060641.JPG

But we hit a problem. The Derale PWM controller wasn't as advertised. It didn't have enough jam to power our pair of Derale fans. It would sit there making a squealing sound, not turning the fans at all. Even when we jump started the fans, it could not keep them running on its own. I spent the better part of two months going back and forth between Derale tech support "troubleshooting" our install. They sent a second PWM, we had the same issue. They asked for serial numbers of the PWM's, resistances across the contacts, confirmation of which fans we were using, everything. Then they stopped replying to emails. It became clear they didn't know what was going on and I've never heard back from them since. We were able to return the second controller to Summit and get a refund.


So next we found the AutoCool III at http://www.autocoolguy.com, rated for a ridiculous amount of power and hand built in the USA. I conferred with Darryl who said that his PWM shouldn't have any issues running those Derale fans, and we ordered one up and installed it.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1060884.JPG


Darryl's PWM worked flawlessly, exactly as advertised. It solved our engine cooling fan power spike issues perfectly.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1060904.JPG



Here's a look at power distribution in the trunk using Zack's favorite Fore fuel controller that costs more than $5 ;)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1060647.JPG

Main breaker for fuel system is on the left, and fuses for the individual pumps are on the right side. There is a 2PSI switch on the main vacuum manifold under the hood that turns on the third fuel pump, this is the wiring here to also support that.


Battery located in the trunk as well:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1060645.JPG


Some other follow-up items that were addressed:

- To make the carbon fiber drive shaft fit the transmission, we needed to get the slip yoke machined down a bit

- Transmission cooling was not what we expected, the lines used were just too small to allow ample flow of the fluid up to the front cooler and back, the trans temps were too high. So Dad purchased a Setrab cooler and this was mounted horizontally on an angle nearer to the transmission and under the passenger side. Still tweaking this system, but with so much power coming from the engine the transmission climbs pretty quick in temps

- Power steering ran hot with the long cylindrical cooler I had posted above. This was removed and we used the Derale cooler in the front grill that used to be for the transmission. Now the steering system is nice and cool.

- The boost was blowing vacuum lines loose, several of them needed adjustment and to be clamped to prevent leaks

- Currently we see the boost gauge go up to 22 PSI. A larger pulley will be installed which will bring the boost up a bit more (to the blower's rated 18000RPM), and will also help bring up the alternator output at idle RPM.


Next post I'll post some pictures from along the way of bits and pieces that were missed above.

[JoeBoomz]

Some random photos of pieces used to bring this all together.


Metco lower (crank) pulley assembly, allows to quickly change the size of the 8-rib crank pulley that drives the alternator and blower to change blower RPM.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1010098.JPG

We have 5 other pulleys (and belts) ready to test to see if we can get better results on the Whipple without spinning past its point of efficiency.



Here's a look at the Kooks cats on the car, notice the bungs welded on for various O2 and wideband sensors.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1040672.JPG

We've got a total of FOUR widebands on this car, two on each side (this also contributed to our big power draw on the car).
Dad wanted to test out a Innovative Motorsports LM2 logging device which has two sensors, and then there are two boost gauges (GlowShift and AutoMeter).

I haven't played much with the LM2 yet, it needs to be plugged into the OBD2 and then it can log direct to an SD card. Seems handy, but for now I've been sticking to what I know for the logging, SCT's LiveLink. The GlowShift boost gauge is great, the AutoMeter one kind of sucks, it is slow to respond and doesn't seem as accurate as the others.



Here are some pics of the gauges we added to the car (in addition to the pillar gauges posted previously):

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/WP_20141012_018.jpg

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/WP_20141012_023.jpg


Ran out of space for gauges, put the extras in the glove box:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/WP_20141012_005.jpg
(GlowShift fuel rail pressure on left, AutoMeter wideband at the right)

You can also see the enable/disable switches dad wired up and installed in the glove box for various parts of the electrical system, including a fuel pump enable bypass, killing fans if needed, and turning off lights to the gauges.



A couple more shots of the ABS delete block that we original found on crownvic.net
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1030781.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/IMG_7197.JPG

This block worked perfectly, the brakes in the car work as they did before. We do have a permanent ABS light on the dash, have to check with a Ford dealer if we can get it disabled.

I tried to go to the guy's site today and it's gone. We want to get a couple more of these, I'll have to dig up my old emails and hope we can get a hold of him and that he still has some, otherwise we'll need to custom make a few. We want to do more Marauders in the future.



Here are some pics of the cooling system components:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1040268.JPG

On left you have Derale coolers, middle is the Afco intercooler, right is the Fluidyne radiator.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1040256.JPG

These are Spal fans on the Afco aftercooler, and then single Derale fans on the trans and steering coolers at the front of the car.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1040277.JPG

Another look at the Fluidyne radiator used.

[JoeBoomz]

Here is a picture of the many pieces that come with the transmission kit:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1050238.JPG



This is a custom made oil filter adapter connector, to reroute the oil lines from the engine to the oil cooler and through the PH8A-sized filter we use from the TransDapt kit.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/P1050691.JPG



Next I will post some datalogs that were collected so far this year that show that the extra effort was well worth it for the cooling and fuel ;)

[JoeBoomz]

Datalogging this car has been great, affirming design decisions and money spent on parts. Here are a number of charts from one of our first datalogs we did a few weeks back.

Note we still have some dialing in to do - some things are still off in the tune. We haven't been to a dyno yet to check numbers yet either.



Here's a look at a nice pull from idle. The RPM is in blue
- starting at 1000RPM (we were stopped) at 877 seconds (on the bottom)
- then going up to 6500 rev limiter 878 seconds, wheels spinning
- driver came off the pedal to get traction at 878.5 seconds to 879 seconds
- shift from 1-2 happens at RPM drop at 882 seconds
- 2-3 shift at 885
- Long pull in 3rd from 886-892, then driver let off the gas
- Torque Converter lockup appears in 2nd at 880.25 seconds (see the dip in RPM)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog1.jpg




This chart shows us how our fuel supply is keeping up.

The fuel rail pressure is in purple, values on the Y-axis at the left side. It looks jaggedy, but the bumps are within 0.5 PSI – very small variance
- Steady between 42 and 42.5 while idling between 875-877 seconds
- It jumps as the third fuel pump kicks in, near 877.5
- It drops again as the boost goes away around 893-894 seconds and the third pump turns off again
- The whole run we don’t go anywhere below 41.5 PSI. This is WAY different than my car with a return system where I can see it dipping below sometimes, down to 35 PSI even, or spiking a ton after a run.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog2.jpg




Watch the coolant temp climb from 178F to 198F through this pull.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog3.jpg



At 986 seconds we are back to 182F while cruising at 2100 RPM (1.5 minutes later!)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog4.jpg




Look how closely the airflow (MAF Counts) matches the engine RPM’s (while the throttle blade is open)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog5.jpg

On my Vortech Marauder, the MAF counts climb exponentially to the engine RPM - with a roots-style blower where the power is almost linear across all RPM's, the MAF counts climb in a fashion similar to the RPM.




Here is the air fuel mixture, supposed to be at 12, in actuality it was at 12.5 most of the run (more air than fuel expected)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog6.jpg

So we know to adjust the MAF table (increase the amount of air) to bring it closer in line to what the airflow actually was - so more fuel is added to get us to the demanded 12 A/F.



Throttle position, driver had it all the way down except for when he tried to get traction back at the start (this is why the a/f jumped up to 17.5 in the above chart instead of staying at 12 the whole run)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog7.jpg

Notice when the driver comes off the pedal at the end, the air fuel went to 20 – the coasting fuel shutoff is enabled so the engine is slowing the car down and no fuel is being used.



Voltage:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog8.jpg

Voltage was maintained throughout the whole run, no lack of power for the fuel pumps and injectors!

Look at the voltage jump up at the end when the driver comes off the pedal! This is probably the third fuel pump turning off again.



This is the intake air temp:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog9.jpg

It climbs from 122F to 152F in this run (heat from the air going through the intercooler), and drops back down to 122F 89 seconds later:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog10.jpg

Back to 122F at 982 seconds in the log.


So both our engine coolant and air intake temperatures will come down back to normal after about 1.5 minutes of cruise in the car...



Hit the 10-image limit, continued in next post...

[JoeBoomz]

...continued from previous post...


Trans temp, this one has me a bit skeptical about the factory sensor especially after seeing the gauge added to the car.

- At around 204F when cruising at 870 seconds.
- Then we stop and it climbs (the torque converter is spinning while we are stopped???)
- Then the driver put the pedal down and the temperature goes DOWN for some reason, before bottoming out at 205F, then a gradual climb to 216F at 903 seconds
- Temperature stays high during coasting (when the fuel is off, the torque converter is locked, should be minimal heat generation)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog11.jpg


Got it back to 207F at 1001 seconds, 98 seconds later. So it takes about 1 minute and 40 seconds to come back down in temperature, according to this.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog12.jpg



The fact that it takes so long to get the trans temp up after the pull leads me to think that Ford has their sensor on the return from the cooler and it takes extra time for the hotter fluid to make the circle back to the casing where it is being sensed. (???)






This one is OPEN LOOP DESIRED (equals 0 or 1 true or false)
When you put the pedal down, the car goes into Open loop mode.

Closed loop is when the ECU learns the air fuel mixture on its own based on the 02 sensors (all it knows is “too rich” or “too lean” and bounces back and forth).

When it goes open loop, it relies entirely on the pre-programmed MAF table, the MAF counts (which is has from the MAF sensor), and the amount of fuel required in the pre-programmed fuel table in the tune, to give the correct amount of fuel to the engine.

So having the MAF table correct in the tune is essential to having the correct air/fuel mixture when you are doing a pull. Too rich or too lean and the engine could be damaged.

Here you can see it goes open loop almost instantly when you floor it. This is where I can do the tuning because I know it isn’t relying on any learning to get the air/fuel.
The fact that we got 12.5 instead of 12 shows we were ~4% off, so I adjust the MAF table by ~4% in those locations so next time, it thinks we have more air and adds that 4% extra fuel to bring it down to 12 for next time.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog13.jpg







Coasting fuel shutoff is a 0/1 like the open loop desired.
Dark blue in this chart is the coast fuel shutoff flag.
I left air/fuel in this chart too (green)
Here you can see at the end when we entered coasting mode, and the fuel shut off at 896 seconds. A/F goes to 20 (all air, no fuel)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog14.jpg




This is a different pull than the above charts, this one shows us going through all of the gears in the car.
Blue = RPM
Brown = Throttle Position
Purple = Fuel Rail Pressure


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/03-27-2016-WhippleUpdate/Datalog15.jpg



That's about it for today's update, 4 hours later :)
Hope there's something useful for someone in all of this, don't hesitate to ask questions or want higher res pictures of something.

[lifespeed]

What a great update, and data to go with it! Looks beautiful. High capacity in the heat exchanger, fans, electric and fuel will serve you well.

[JoeBoomz]

A quick update here for informational purposes, sorry no new pics (unless you want to see car show pics here (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1512267)).


- Too much tires spinning. Went from 4:10 back to 3:55's. :D

- Tried a 4lb lower, which brought the boost up to 24.5PSI at 4500RPM. Blower was still efficient here, but barely. Makes lots of heat and caused spark issues (blew out the spark). Had to retard the timing too much to keep using pump gas (94 octane).
Went back to stock size lower, able to bring the spark up again, car is running awesome.

Had it on rollers but that was when we had the 4lb lower on the car and it wasn't running smoothly past 4500RPM. Couldn't tell by driving it on the street, but the rollers are able to show dips in power clearly. I don't know if we'll have a chance to get a dyno HP number this year, will try (snow flies early here), and it's already 10c outside at night with trees turning yellow.

[MOTOWN]

I can definitely relate to swapping gears , I'll be going back to 3:55s , or 3:73s whatever I can get a deal on , but the 4:10s have to go.

[blkZooM]

A quick update here for informational purposes, sorry no new pics (unless you want to see car show pics here (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1512267)).


- Too much tires spinning. Went from 4:10 back to 3:55's. :D

- Tried a 4lb lower, which brought the boost up to 24.5PSI at 4500RPM. Blower was still efficient here, but barely. Makes lots of heat and caused spark issues (blew out the spark). Had to retard the timing too much to keep using pump gas (94 octane).
Went back to stock size lower, able to bring the spark up again, car is running awesome.

Had it on rollers but that was when we had the 4lb lower on the car and it wasn't running smoothly past 4500RPM. Couldn't tell by driving it on the street, but the rollers are able to show dips in power clearly. I don't know if we'll have a chance to get a dyno HP number this year, will try (snow flies early here), and it's already 10c outside at night with trees turning yellow.



Jesus the though of seeing 24 psi and knowing there is pump gas in the tank would scare the hell out of me. Do you have the torque numbers it made/graph showing what it made before 4500 rpm?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[JoeBoomz]

Jesus the though of seeing 24 psi and knowing there is pump gas in the tank would scare the hell out of me. Do you have the torque numbers it made/graph showing what it made before 4500 rpm?

No clear results on the dyno, the power output was too spotty and we aborted before spending too much time on it. We spent the time working on my Vortech car instead.

Funny how there is no sign of that in street driving; it really shows how much better the rollers are for tuning and testing when you get into the high horsepower...

We knew we would be at the limit with pump gas and have considered using better fuel to push further. We don't have any 100 octane around here, 94 is the best there is :(

At the end of the day, the car needs to be enjoyed, not sit in a garage. Being able to roll into a gas station to fill is a big factor!

[blkZooM]

No clear results on the dyno, the power output was too spotty and we aborted before spending too much time on it. We spent the time working on my Vortech car instead.

Funny how there is no sign of that in street driving; it really shows how much better the rollers are for tuning and testing when you get into the high horsepower...

We knew we would be at the limit with pump gas and have considered using better fuel to push further. We don't have any 100 octane around here, 94 is the best there is :(

At the end of the day, the car needs to be enjoyed, not sit in a garage. Being able to roll into a gas station to fill is a big factor!


Sorry I mean to ask torque numbers below 4500. I agree on the last part also.




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