I am PISSED off!

[gdsqdcr]

7-8K miles ago, I put new brakes all the way around. Hawk pads and R1 concept slotted rotors. This afternoon, I had a chance to do a little canyon carving in the Marauder. Did I push her? Absolutely!! She only got squirrelly where here's here was loose gravel on the road in the apex of the turn.

It was fun, though I missed the manual transmission.

So why am I pissed? I am leaving the area going down and incline and smell burning brakes. Hmmm, I stop the and the smoke is bellowing from the front brakes!!! I have never smoked a set of Hawk pads -- not even on a track. The only pads I ever smoked was when a caliper froze on the 85 t-bird.

Yes, I know this is a 4400lb sled, but I would not expect the brakes to work so hard that they were smoking! Now I get the pleasure of tearing apart the from brakes and seeing if I am replacing pads or just scuffing them up.

Anyone ever have this issue? How about on the track? Will I need to get a big brake kit (wilwood/brembo) to stop the car on the track?

Thanks!
Anthony

[JoeBoomz]

They're easier to smoke when new. Best to work them in slowly over a couple of drives first then they will be less prone to smoking. The car is indeed heavy :beer:

[DWSTANG67]

After i installed hawks on my marauder i performed the bedding process. Starting at 20mph than full stop increasing up to 60mph and than full stop and yes i had smoke and heat. Since than i never had smoke from normal operation.

I do notice now the harder you use them the more they heat up and the better they work

[slickster]

After i installed hawks on my marauder i performed the bedding process. Starting at 20mph than full stop increasing up to 60mph and than full stop and yes i had smoke and heat. Since than i never had smoke from normal operation.

I do notice now the harder you use them the more they heat up and the better they work

+1 but never had smoke

[justbob]

I certaintely drive hard and all I used were they "house" brand cheapo pads that R1 sells three/four years ago and not an issue.

I only paid $199 and free ship off Ebay for all four rotors and pads. My pads are about half worn dorn, but will probably die from dry rot cracks before wear. Maybe just try the R1 pads?

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

[sailsmen]

I went back to the OEM pads and rotors. No problems. Most aftermarket cannot match the OEM.

[gdsqdcr]

OEM's were not nearly enough for me, and Hawks always treated me well, soni trid them. The Hawks and R1's stopped well on the road and after I let then cool down a bit, all seemed well again. Still going to strip it down and see what it looks like.

The max road speed limit is 25 with 4-5 switchbacks rated at 10mph and many turns over the stretch of about 8 miles. Tough road to drive. I never once felt like the brakes were an issue on the road, it was after stopping for about 5 minutes and then going down the relatively steep road to get back to the main road.

I used to road course the SHO, but I also use the manual transmission to power through and brake through most ofthe turns. This maybe something that I just need to adjust too. Course, I may need to adjust to the fact that the Marauder is not as nimble through the turns either.

Anthony

[Mr. Man]

I put Hawk pads (blue box) on the SB about 400mi. ago and I'm not impressed. If they don't get better I might change back to OEM.

[dohc324ci]

It's as nimble as a 4100lbs car can be. I drive my wife's S197 GT with the FR3 handling pack every now and again. Yeah it's a huge difference when the road isn't straight...lol do you have the front and rear adcco sway bars? Maybe a set of QA1 double adjustable shocks? Now my setup is all original (135k) OE stuff but planning on replacing shocks and adding the beefier sway bars.

[gdsqdcr]

It's as nimble as a 4100lbs car can be. I drive my wife's S197 GT with the FR3 handling pack every now and again. Yeah it's a huge difference when the road isn't straight...lol do you have the front and rear adcco sway bars? Maybe a set of QA1 double adjustable shocks? Now my setup is all original (135k) OE stuff but planning on replacing shocks and adding the beefier sway bars.



Addco's already there, musclemerc control arms to install. The car handled as well as it could ... Like I said, she only got squirrelly when I ran over the loose gravel in the apex of a turn; but even then she recovered well.

My issue is that the brakes smoked! I was not impressed with that at all!

[dohc324ci]

Well perhaps better tires and big brakes (TCE) for what you want to do. Widen rear rim with a 295 tire - Nitto NT05. I have a very hard time with the big bore breaking loose on this tire. I'd break loose easily with the BFG's. At its limit the tire doesn't scream like the BFG's and grip is amazing even with my worn out shocks (needs replacing). Oh and I also recommend doing the TCE stainless steel brake lines. Soft and mushy pedal feel will be no more especially under sudden stops.

[boatmangc]

I have been quite pleased with my Napa Reactive Ones. I put it through a few passes in an autocross a couple of months ago and I didn't notice any fade or heating, but the car is a behemoth and frankly, longer than the spaces between the pylons , I had to kick the arse around to get an approach that was do-able.
I had fun and the brakes were good.
But Wilwoods are still in my future, at the end of a 1320 there is no substitute for big brakes on these cars.