It's finally finished! Trilogy #39

[RocsMerc]

I bought this: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=912440#post91 2440
and turned it into this by following the Eaton swap thread. :banana2:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20120713_173546.jpghttp://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20120714_145658.jpg
I bought this Trilogy kit used and missing most of the original parts a little over 2 years ago, but its been worth the wait. I have been slowly collecting parts for it ever since. This week I was on vacation from work and spent the week installing the supercharger myself. I installed it with a 90mm Lightning MAF, an Accufab oval bore throttle body, and a 3.2" pulley. There was quite a bit of custom modification from the standard Trilogy install. I had to grind down part of the stock Cobra manifold so the Trilogy adapter plate would sit on it.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/PIC_0018.JPG
I drilled and tapped a Ford Lightning IAT sensor into the back of the intake manifold and wired it to the two outer most wires of the MAF connector. The flange of metal around the intercooler needed lots of holes drilled into it so I could mount the supercharger to the adapter plate and so the opening for the boost gauge line wasn't obstructed. I had to hunt down an alternator re-manufacturing plant to remove the clutched alternator pulley for me. They were very nice about it and didn't even charge me anything. I modified the fuel rail pressure sensor to see boost using a brass T-fitting on the line going to the boost gauge. The water inlet adapter for the intercooler I bought on eBay had threaded an-10 connectors welded onto it, and I didn't realize it until the package arrived at my house. I needed to buy one straight threaded hose barb and one with a 90 degree bend to clear the tensioner pulley bracket.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20120714_173204.jpg
You can also see I did something very non-traditional with the crossover tube. This kit was sold to me with the passenger side half of the crossover tube, but not the driver side. Back when I first bought it, I contacted Jerry at Trilogy to purchase some of the missing parts including the other half of the crossover tube and he got back to me with a reasonable price, but this was around the same time my rear end blew up and I couldn't afford additional expenses at the time. Now the Trilogy kit is out of production and when I contacted Jerry about a month ago he told me that it would cost $1,000 for just the crossover tube!!! :eek: I tried to negotiate with him, even forwarding him the original email from him with the price that he quoted me two years ago, which was about a third of the price, but he was very firm on that price. He said that is manufacturing costs have doubled and now that it's out of production, he will only sell the COT pipes as a complete set. Apparently those two little pieces of pipe with a rubber elbow and o-rings is worth more than the blower itself. No one was able to give me a straight answer about if the modified COT that the Eaton swap uses would fit a Trilogy and obviously spending $1,000 on a COT was out of the question, so I found a different solution.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/99atlbluegt/2004%20Cobra%20Build/CoolingSystemCobra2.jpg
http://forums.corral.net/forums/svt-dohc/1360724-4v-crossover-delete-cooling-modification.html
It's a crossover delete kit. To use this on a Marauder required even further modification. First of all, you need to purchase it with two driver side connectors instead of the passenger side one. The Marauder has dual temp sensors. I installed the rear head cooling mod and used that to feed the heater core directly. This removed the need to put a T-fitting on the hoses to supply the heater core and will give better flow in my heads. This kit relocates the thermostat into it's own housing and therefore the stock 3 way thermostat is no longer needed. I cut the lower radiator hose about a foot shorter before the stock thermostat housing and coupled it with a flexible hose. I then connected the other end of the flex hose directly to the block. This eliminates the large hose that tee's off the stock COT and goes down. I can now connect the heads directly to the thermostat housing on the radiator inlet without the need of any splits or T-connectors. It's much cleaner in my opinion. I also had to custom make brackets for the horns and for the intercooler water pump. The horn bracket was easy enough to make out of some bent metal in my vice and some pliers.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20120714_190521.jpghttp://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20120714_190347.jpg
For the water pump, i didn't even need to make a bracket. I found this pipe clamp in Home Depot. I just painted a little Plasti Dip inside the ring so it would have a rubberized texture and I bent it slightly so it would fit the curved surface I was mounting it to.

I haven't driven the car yet because I'm still waiting to be dyno tuned in about a week. On Monday, my tuner is going to give me an emailed tune so I can start the engine and get back and forth to work. I work about 1 mile from my house. I can't even explain how excited and nervous I am. I want to drive it so badly, but at the same time I'm worried that it's going to leak radiator fluid from every hose clamp and catch fire. I'm probably worried about nothing, but there are about a million things that can go wrong and I can't even test to see if everything will work the way I think it will work. Hopefully everything will go smoothly. :burnout:

[Merrill]

Nice job, looks clean. You will have to have your grin surgically removed
when you get tuned and are driving it. What's next? Headers?
Widened wheels? Oh the madness.

[Ms. Denmark]

Very nice Rocco!! Looks great! Congratulations!

[cj7chris]

Nice fab work. Let us know how it runs once its tuned.

[tjl006]

Looks good Roc. Happy to see that you got it all together.

[sailsmen]

Report back when you get to floor it!:D

[DOOM]

She looks good!

Have you been on the dyno yet?

[guspech750]

$1,000 for a COT?? What a scam!!

Nice work. Looks great!

And welcome to the world of MM boost!!



Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[RocsMerc]

She looks good!

Have you been on the dyno yet?

I get an emailed temp tune on Monday. I have my dyno tune the week after that. I don't intend to floor it until after the dyno, so I'll be taking it easy for a week.

[RocsMerc]

$1,000 for a COT?? What a scam!!

Nice work. Looks great!

And welcome to the world of MM boost!!

In the end, I'm glad I didn't use a COT at all. The lack of one makes my install unique and I like that a lot. If I've known about the COT delete kit before, I never would have contacted Jerry in the first place. I would have went straight for the delete option even if the COT was cheap.

[Spectragod]

$1,000 for a COT?? What a scam!!

Nice work. Looks great!

And welcome to the world of MM boost!!



Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

I wouldn't believe that to be a scam, it sounds like the manufacturer/fabricator is the one dictating the price as they would have to tool up for 1 unit, and I am sure they have a minimum price for setup.

Jerry is a standup guy, he has never taken advantage of anyone.

[bugsyc]

Really nice job and a great write up..Might give some on the fence the push to do their own install..Don't forget to update us after the dyno tune..Much respect...bugsy...:bows:

[sailsmen]

Waaaaay back when I helped restore a Volvo P1800. The OEM parts were so high we would have local machine shops fab them up for less than 25% of the Vovlo price.
What he was telling you is I am out of that buiness, if you have no other choice I can accommodate you but you are better off going elsewhere.

I turn away prospects all the time. I do give them advise that is of value to them. If the relationship is not mutaully beneficial it's a loser.

[RocsMerc]

I just started the car today. I have a slight problem. I used a 50.5 inch 8 rib belt for the supercharger. It fits on there snug, but it only used a slight amount of the tensioner's range of motion. Also when I let the car heat up, the belt stretched slightly and now the tensioner is touching the stopper. It still feels snug but I think I should switch to a 50 inch belt. The only problem is I can't seem to find a belt this small. Does anyone know a site I can buy one from?

[Cobra25]

If you cant find what your looking for in the general auto store Try going on line and getting Dayco Belts factory phone number. They make belts 8 Rib Black belts in different sizes for Volvo & International Tractor that are not listed to the general public auto stores. Ask for the enginering department to help you out.

[Siege]

Congratulations on getting it together!

Most belt manufacturers part numbers have the length as part of the number so it is pretty easy to find the right size.

For Dayco the number breaks down as:

5080495

50=No idea :flamer:
80=8 Rib

495 = 49.5" long

It doesn't appear that they make a 50" long belt but if the tensioner is at the end of its range then the 49.5" may work. If you drive to the autoparts store with your ratchet you can buy it and try it in the parking lot and if it doesn't work then return it.

[RocsMerc]

Congratulations on getting it together!

Most belt manufacturers part numbers have the length as part of the number so it is pretty easy to find the right size.

For Dayco the number breaks down as:

5080495

50=No idea :flamer:
80=8 Rib

495 = 49.5" long

It doesn't appear that they make a 50" long belt but if the tensioner is at the end of its range then the 49.5" may work. If you drive to the autoparts store with your ratchet you can buy it and try it in the parking lot and if it doesn't work then return it.

Thanks. I figured out that a 50" belt didn't exist last night. I ordered a 49.5" belt on Amazon last night and it should get here by Friday. I noticed some people on here had to grind down the stopper on the tensioner so they could pull it back enough to get the belt on. I might have to do that.

I have another question for the Trilogy/Eaton swap guys out there. Where did you mount the relay for the intercooler water pump? I mounted it where the Trilogy manual said to, but I noticed the water pump sticking on after the car was off and this was right after a heavy rainstorm. I think I need to move the relay somewhere a little more weather proof. What did you guys do?

[RocsMerc]

I just ordered this.
http://www.genosgarage.com/WATERPROOF-RELAY-KIT/productinfo/RELAY-KIT/
Hopefully this fixes my relay issues permantly.

[Siege]

I have another question for the Trilogy/Eaton swap guys out there. Where did you mount the relay for the intercooler water pump? I mounted it where the Trilogy manual said to, but I noticed the water pump sticking on after the car was off and this was right after a heavy rainstorm. I think I need to move the relay somewhere a little more weather proof. What did you guys do?

That's odd. It sounds like you may have a bad relay.

I have mine mounted where the manual describes and haven't had any issues.

[bugsyc]

Congrats on your install.Did you do it all yourself?? If you did,more power to ya..:bows:

[RocsMerc]

I got my dyno tune a week ago. Sorry this took so long to post up but I've been distracted by other minor issues for the last week.

When I got the car back from the dyno, I had an electrical short that would pop my fuse instantly. That turned out to be an unrelated issue to everything I've done to the car, but it scared me that I might have done something wrong for a while and it had me really depressed for a few days. :depress: I couldn't even enjoy my new speed. I was envisioning the worst, thinking that the EGR tube was melting my engine wire harness behind the block and that I would have to take the supercharger and intake manifold out just to get to it. It turns out my LCM unit is going bad and that's what's blowing the fuse. Then after that was dealt with, I discovered my car started getting about 5 MPG out of nowhere with normal driving. :eek: I didn't notice it until I realized that I used almost half a tank of gas from driving 35 miles. That turned out to be a very simple problem. The rubber boot that connected the boost pressure line to the fuel rail pressure sensor had a tear in it. That was an easy fix. I can see my correct boost numbers on the dyno sheet so I know that it was in working order when I got tuned. It turned out that the rubber vacuum line connector I used was too small and it just cracked after being given enough time. Oops, stupid mistake.

Now that the bad is out of the way, lets talk about the good. :burnout: I requested two tunes, one for 93 octane, and one for 91 octane for when I go on road trips like Carlisle, PA. Sometimes when I'm out of state, 91 octane is all I can find. I also asked that the 91 octane tune would have a more conservative transmission tune since it would be used primarily for road trips with long highway mileage. As he started dialing in the correct tune for my car, it made a max of 432 RWHP. This was at 6500 RPMs, just above where my RPM red line should be. He said that that pull was too aggressive so he pulled some timing and lowered the red line to 6100 RPMs. He wasn't satisfied with that pull so he reverted back to the timings of the previous pull with the red line lowered to the proper value. In the end it made 423 RWHP / 398 torque @11PSI on my 93 octane tune and 406 RWHP / 385 torque on my 91 octane tune. :banana2: He said that I have a very strong engine and he showed me a dyno sheet for an Eaton swap Marauder that he tuned. His car made slightly less HP than mine and he was running 12 PSI of boost, a whole pound more than me. He also said that when I made 432 RWHP @6500RPMs, when the red line was too high, that my car just about peaked the capacity of my injectors, fuel pump, and MAF. In case anyone was wondering, I'm running 39# injectors, a lightning 90mm MAF, and an Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump (http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-pumps/11142-340-stealth-fuel-pump-offset-inlet-inline/) without any BAP. I actually had no intention of upgrading either my injectors or fuel pump and I brought a larger pulley for the supercharger with me just in case I managed to peak my fuel system. Someone on this site has stated that you will max out the safe limits of the bottom end of the engine before you peak 39# injectors and if my fuel pump reached max capacity as the injectors peaked, I guess that means that there a good match for each other.

Next came the transmission part of the tune. This part I'm not as happy about the results. I have 4.10 gears and had a tune from Reinhart. I was use to firm shifts and downshifting easily at 1/4 throttle. I didn't get to ride with him when he went to take it out for a test drive because I walked to the McDonald's around the corner. He said that for the 91 octane tune, he gave me the stock transmission tune with firmer shifts and for the 93 octane tune he razed all the shift points 5 MPH from stock. Maybe this would have been ok if I had the stock gear ratio, but with 4.10 gears, razing everything 5 MPH is basically just the stock shift points. I'm in overdrive at 35 MPH and I think I feel the torque converter locking at the top of second gear. Also, the shifts aren't firm at all. In fact, it feels like it slips a little under slow acceleration when going from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. I have never felt my transmission slip before this tune. I'm going to contact him and ask to have my 93 octane transmission program put on my 91 octane tune with the shifts a bit firmer, which is exactly what I want for my conservative road trip tune, but what should I ask for with my 93 octane tune? Should I ask for him to raze it another 5 MPH? What about the torque converter lock up schedule? When I had Reinhart's tune, I didn't even notice my torque converter locking, so I don't know what I should ask for. Is there a file I could get from him that I could sent to someone that knows about Marauder transmissions, or better yet, could I give him a file with someone else's tune and say "Use this trany schedule."? :confused:

[sailsmen]

Go to another tuner.

[RocsMerc]

Go to another tuner.

I went to this tuner due to a lack of options. There are not many reputable Ford tuners on Long Island. The most reputable tuner is less than a mile from my house, but they refused my business because it's not a Mustang. The tuner Paul used is in New Jersey over a 2 hour drive away and when I called to make an appointment, he was booked until September. I have to take what I can get. There has to be something I can ask for from him to get the shift schedual the way I want. Am I entitled to the editable tune file if I ask him for it? Maybe I can email it to someone like Reinhart or Lido.

[sailsmen]

When you look at all the time and money you put into it a few hour drive is nothing.
My tuner is 450 miles away.

[JoeBoomz]

Do you have any transmission mods? From your description you are running stock and a stock transmission is very sensitive to tune changes.

If your tuner uses SCT and doesn't mind loading some value files for you, I'd be happy to provide some enhanced transmission values to try out. My better ones are for a modified transmission, but the stock ones I have are pretty good too.

[RacerX]

Rocsmerc How is that Aeromotive Stealth 11142 working for you? I'm leaning that way. I read this last year and the new 400lph doesn't do as good in tests as the Aero.

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/pages/fuel-pump-comparison-test-5.html

[justbob]

Rocsmerc How is that Aeromotive Stealth 11142 working for you? I'm leaning that way. I read this last year and the new 400lph doesn't do as good in tests as the Aero.

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/pages/fuel-pump-comparison-test-5.html

I'll find that out shortly!


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

[LANDY]

Has anyone done a comparison between the GT pump and the stealth pump?

[MOTOWN]

I would like to have seen the Walbro 400lph pump in the test/comparison

[lji372]

$1,000 for a COT?? What a scam!!

Nice work. Looks great!

And welcome to the world of MM boost!!


+1 on all 3 counts

[RacerX]

I'll find that out shortly!
Cool! I'm looking at that to replace the GT40 and keep the 40amp BAP.


Has anyone done a comparison between the GT pump and the stealth pump?

Yes, I posted the link above. It even outperforms the 400lph at the typical 39.16 psi that we use.

GT40 and Walbro GSS-342 are really the same 255lph pump. See the data below:

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/pages/fuel-pump-comparison-test-5.html

[LANDY]

The GT pump is 310 LPH. Im at 75% fpdc at 12.0 afr with my new setup over 20 psi. Im waiting on the Pro Racer software to get here so i can fatten it up to 11.4 or so. Plus a 100+ hit of nitrous should put me around 90%. I just dont know if its worth the hassle for the extra 30 LPH. Maybe i should just go return style which i dont want to, or leave this car alone.

[RacerX]

??? Landy, I thought you had more ponies than me. I have a real gt40 fp w/40amp bap and am at 95% fpdc. 11.5/12 afr. GT40 is a 255lph. I'm pretty sure.

[LANDY]

I have two GT pumps, 40amp BAP set at 17VDC, modded FPDM, two -6 out of the hat to a single -8 before the filter to the stock fuel rails. A dedicated wire for each pump from the FPDM to the pumps. Last i dynoed at 18psi it was making 569rwhp. Now with the YSI its going over the 20psi on my boost gauge. It leaned me out from 10.9 to 12.0. On the same tune.

[LANDY]

I just double checked and they are claiming 310lph on the GT pumps.

[justbob]

Been told some can't dip below 60 PSI at idle using the 400 on a returnless. I will be using -8 from hat to filter mounted near the master, then -8 to rail.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

[RacerX]

I just double checked and they are claiming 310lph on the GT pumps.

I saw that and others claiming 255/260 range. Which to me is more believable why we're running out of pump. 340 stealth with a bap is 433lph @ 60psi and 17v. I know a single GT40 fp w/bap can't touch that. Dual 340s though... Hmmmm...

[LANDY]

Now we are talking!!! I have a dyno appointment with a car that has double 340's no Bap ill find out how good are they tomorrow.

[RacerX]

Now we are talking!!! I have a dyno appointment with a car that has double 340's no Bap ill find out how good are they tomorrow.
That would be very helpful info! Thanks!

[Vortech347]

I'm running a single stealth pump with a BAP (set at 0) on my Mustang with a -8 fuel line and its feeding 550rwhp just fine. Sounds like if the pump is getting maxed your fuel filter needs to be changed or you have a kink in the line somewhere.

[RocsMerc]

Rocsmerc How is that Aeromotive Stealth 11142 working for you? I'm leaning that way. I read this last year and the new 400lph doesn't do as good in tests as the Aero.

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/pages/fuel-pump-comparison-test-5.html

I haven't had any issues with the fuel pump. My main reason for getting it was at the recommendation of one of the tuners I called when trying to schedule an appointment for a dyno. I don't remember which tuner it was unfortunately; I called so many. It was not for increased flow reasons, but because it's a turbine style pump. I was told that a turbine style pump will perform better and last longer in a return-less fuel system. I actually already had a Walbro GSS-342 purchased when I called to schedule a dyno, but I went ahead and bought the Aeromotive Stealth anyway. My only real complaint about that pump is the parts included in the install kit were of a lower quality than the Walbro install kit. Although I don't remember if the install kit that came with the Walbro was made by Walbro or if it was thrown in as a free-be by the company I purchased the pump from. The sleeve that goes around the pump was a cheep foam rubber, where as the one that came with the Walbro was real rubber. That was actually irrelevant anyway because I reused the rubber sleeve that was on the stock pump. The real issue was the harness pigtail that came with the Aeromotive one was very flimsy. I was worried that the wires would come unsoldered from the harness. I used the pigtail that came with the Walbro instead. My main advice to you is to go with the Aeromotive Stealth, but buy yourself a pigtail connector and don't use the one it comes with. Other than that one issue with the quality of the pigtail connector, it's a great pump.

[RocsMerc]

I just realized that I've never updated this thread since I've had my transmission tune adjusted to be more to my liking.


Next came the transmission part of the tune. This part I'm not as happy about the results. I have 4.10 gears and had a tune from Reinhart. I was use to firm shifts and downshifting easily at 1/4 throttle. I didn't get to ride with him when he went to take it out for a test drive because I walked to the McDonald's around the corner. He said that for the 91 octane tune, he gave me the stock transmission tune with firmer shifts and for the 93 octane tune he razed all the shift points 5 MPH from stock. Maybe this would have been ok if I had the stock gear ratio, but with 4.10 gears, razing everything 5 MPH is basically just the stock shift points. I'm in overdrive at 35 MPH and I think I feel the torque converter locking at the top of second gear. Also, the shifts aren't firm at all. In fact, it feels like it slips a little under slow acceleration when going from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. I have never felt my transmission slip before this tune. I'm going to contact him and ask to have my 93 octane transmission program put on my 91 octane tune with the shifts a bit firmer, which is exactly what I want for my conservative road trip tune, but what should I ask for with my 93 octane tune? Should I ask for him to raze it another 5 MPH? What about the torque converter lock up schedule? When I had Reinhart's tune, I didn't even notice my torque converter locking, so I don't know what I should ask for. Is there a file I could get from him that I could sent to someone that knows about Marauder transmissions, or better yet, could I give him a file with someone else's tune and say "Use this trany schedule."? :confused:

Long story short, I contacted my tuner and he was more than happy to make some adjustments to my tune. In fact I like my current shift schedule better then my old Reinhart one. He made my shifts a bit firmer all around on both tunes. I also asked him to simplify my torque converter lockup schedule. It now never locks in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear. It only locks when going over 54 mph and only in 4th gear. Having the torque converter unlocked in the lower gears was a night and day difference for the better. We also realized the reason I was unhappy with the old tune. Because of my mono-blade oval throttle body, my throttle response was so good that I was doing all my normal driving under less than 10%-15% throttle, therefore the computer always thought I was driving like a snail and always shifting the earliest the tune allowed for. He made the tune more sensitive to the smaller amounts of throttle I was driving with, as well as locked out overdrive until 45 mph, and it felt very good. He actually put three different tunes on my SCT and told me to drive around and find what I like and dislike, and he built my tune around my responses.

[guspech750]

That's great. My TC only locks at 55mph.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Blackened300a]

That's great. My TC only locks at 55mph

Mine too. I like having it unlocked and lockup like a 5th gear. At WOT it locks up at 90mph.

[guspech750]

Mine too. I like having it unlocked and lockup like a 5th gear. At WOT it locks up at 90mph.

Yeah it is like having a 5th gear. I would like to have the TC lockup readjusted to lock up at 65. It still a little annoying while driving on non highway roads where the speed limit is 50 or 55. But im in no rush. It is just a small annoyance.

[LANDY]

That would be very helpful info! Thanks!
Yesterday the car made 564/495whp the FPDC was at 62%. Yes thhis car has dual fpdm and BAP's.