Factory subwoofer amp wiring?

[HwyCruiser]

Looking for help with the factory subwoofer amp wire harness - wire color(s) and function. Tried searching without luck.

Thanks,

-JD

[Murader03]

Looking for help with the factory subwoofer amp wire harness - wire color(s) and function. Tried searching without luck.

Thanks,

-JD
JD.....Got your e-mail. Have made a quick look through the diagram book prior to work tonight. Didn't find anything, but I'll look closer now. Will let you know what I find...

[rookie1]

I'm looking for the color codes also if you find them. Thanks

[HwyCruiser]

Thanks Bob, I got your message.

Rookie, I'll post the colors that Bob sent me once I get a chance to get back into the trunk this weekend to confirm.

-JD

[rookie1]

Thanks Bob, I got your message.

Rookie, I'll post the colors that Bob sent me once I get a chance to get back into the trunk this weekend to confirm.

-JD
Thanks! I just finished installing Polks and audiobahns rear and front and am debating whether or not to install my Infinity Basslink replacing the whole factory sub set-up.

[jettle]

I just installed my Basslink this last weekend. It sounds way better than the factory sub. I put it up on the shelf by the tire. I hear it works even better if you can put it down in one of the corners. I have a trunk organizer though and I dont want to loose that.

I also replaced the factory speakers with JL audio seperates. They are awesome!

[HwyCruiser]

OK, I just got out of the trunk and have the wire colors. I've now officially spent too much time in a trunk voluntarily.

Bob's book had a different color for the remote wire than my 2003 300A did, so I'll give both:

Brown / Orange to Green = TX (pre-amp positive or signal?) by Bob's book
Red / Black to Black = RX (pre-amp negative or reference?) by Bob's book
Green / Violet (Bob's) or White / Violet (mine) to White = remote 7.4VDC "on"
Black / Green to 2 Reds = Ground to lug attached in the car behind the back seat
Red / Yellow to 2 Yellows = Battery 12.8VDC always hot unless fuse gone

The "to" colors refers to the wires of the intermediate wiring harness between the factory harness and the amp.

The factory power and ground wires were probably 16 gauge. The intermediate harness power wires were doubled up, like that was going to do any good. Probably because the stock amp needs more juice than the factory harness was designed to carry. There's no gain adjust on the amp, so I can't figure that one out.

I'm going to have to run at least an 8 gauge wire to the battery. I don't know yet if I'm going to use an amp with a line level input using a RCA pigtail or go with an amp with speaker level inputs and tap of the rear speakers. Any advice would be appreciated.

- JD

[03SILVERSTREAK]

OK, I just got out of the trunk and have the wire colors. I've now officially spent too much time in a trunk voluntarily.

Bob's book had a different color for the remote wire than my 2003 300A did, so I'll give both:

Brown / Orange to Green = TX (pre-amp positive or signal?) by Bob's book
Red / Black to Black = RX (pre-amp negative or reference?) by Bob's book
Green / Violet (Bob's) or White / Violet (mine) to White = remote 7.4VDC "on"
Black / Green to 2 Reds = Ground to lug attached in the car behind the back seat
Red / Yellow to 2 Yellows = Battery 12.8VDC always hot unless fuse gone

The "to" colors refers to the wires of the intermediate wiring harness between the factory harness and the amp.

The factory power and ground wires were probably 16 gauge. The intermediate harness power wires were doubled up, like that was going to do any good. Probably because the stock amp needs more juice than the factory harness was designed to carry. There's no gain adjust on the amp, so I can't figure that one out.

I'm going to have to run at least an 8 gauge wire to the battery. I don't know yet if I'm going to use an amp with a line level input using a RCA pigtail or go with an amp with speaker level inputs and tap of the rear speakers. Any advice would be appreciated.

- JDI also opened the factory sub amp to see if there was a gain control but there were none. I don't remember who the member was but he sugested using the converter to convert the speaker output to a low level signal output. BTW-excellent work on the wiring color code...

[MonsterD]

I had a fosgate amp laying around out of my durango so after sitting in traffic all day listening to the rattle from that little woofer.......I couldnt take it anymore.
I took the box out of my truck and put it in the trunk. They hooked up the fosgate amp and now it rocks. Way tooooo hard. Might have to rethink this.
The amp I installed is a 800 watt brute, and its pushing a fosgate 12.

they left that little silver amp looking thing in the back. It was actually mounted on the factory sub enclosure. They said that instead of dealing with the wiring and trying to separate the signals, they could use the wires out of the silver amp looking thingy, and wired that in to the amp. They said that since the factory set up had already done the work to separate out the ultra lows to the enclosure they could just do that.

It sounds great. Its a bit overpowering. I have the amp gaims all the way down, and all the bass turned off at the head unit and it sounds great. If I turn up the bass at all, then it starts to shake the world.

they are building a box that will fit up on the tire deck for the same 12.
I think I might take the big amp out and tone it down about bit. Maybe go to a 10 with around 400 watts. Not sure yet.

[rookie1]

OK, I just got out of the trunk and have the wire colors. I've now officially spent too much time in a trunk voluntarily.

Bob's book had a different color for the remote wire than my 2003 300A did, so I'll give both:

Brown / Orange to Green = TX (pre-amp positive or signal?) by Bob's book
Red / Black to Black = RX (pre-amp negative or reference?) by Bob's book
Green / Violet (Bob's) or White / Violet (mine) to White = remote 7.4VDC "on"
Black / Green to 2 Reds = Ground to lug attached in the car behind the back seat
Red / Yellow to 2 Yellows = Battery 12.8VDC always hot unless fuse gone

The "to" colors refers to the wires of the intermediate wiring harness between the factory harness and the amp.

The factory power and ground wires were probably 16 gauge. The intermediate harness power wires were doubled up, like that was going to do any good. Probably because the stock amp needs more juice than the factory harness was designed to carry. There's no gain adjust on the amp, so I can't figure that one out.

I'm going to have to run at least an 8 gauge wire to the battery. I don't know yet if I'm going to use an amp with a line level input using a RCA pigtail or go with an amp with speaker level inputs and tap of the rear speakers. Any advice would be appreciated.

- JD
gracias amigo!! time for the basslink, I'm thinking it's about a 30 minute job now.

[joflewbyu2]

the sub gets its signal from a separate positive and negative wires in a harness along with 2 other wires - amp turn on and ground. its the smallest harness out of the 3. not sure if the signal is crossed coming out of the radio or if it is crossed in the amp before being amplified or crossed after being amplified. hooking up my new radio sunday which has a low pass sub out RCA plugs (left and right) that i am using a "Y" splitter to the positive and negative of the small harness that i got from crutchfield. will let you know the outcome. i believe it should sound better. signal is low pass crossed and then passed to the rear amp to be amplified (more efficient).

[rookie1]

Hi all, again, excellent work on the color codes!! Hey, I was in the trunk this weekend and was going to hook up my Infinity Basslink, after taking the oem subwoofer assembly out and while digging out the Basslink I noticed that I had a Kicker Free Air 8" subwoofer laying there(musta pulled it out of someone's sub box I was helping them with). I held it up to the factory cut rear deck hole and it matched up pretty good so I drilled a few holes, mounted it up there hooked it up to the factory amp and it sounds freaking great! I now set the bass on the head unit to about 1/4. The only problem is that I have to de rattle the rear deck now which should be fairly easy by some judicious use of foam rubber and some dynamat between the speaker and the rear deck. The nice thing about it is that i gained usable space on the tire shelf which should be great for the 4 channel amp I'm putting in next and I can sell the Basslink. You can find Free Air subs on Ebay for around 40 bucks Free Air woofers require no enclosure.