line lock

[bugsyc]

Those of you who have installed a brake line lock,any advise on the installation?Seems straight foward enough.anything special I need to know..I'm getting the Summit line lock kit with the Summit install kit...Do I need to flair the fittings?Is there much line bending..If so which tools do you recommend???Thanks

[fastblackmerc]

Those of you who have installed a brake line lock,any advise on the installation?Seems straight foward enough.anything special I need to know..I'm getting the Summit line lock kit with the Summit install kit...Do I need to flair the fittings?Is there much line bending..If so which tools do you recommend???Thanks

Take your time.

You may need to cut and flair the lines since the kit is made for a Mustang

You'll need a double flairing kit, tubing cutter, tubing bender, line wrenches, brake fluid and something to bleed the brakes.

[justbob]

There is no need to cut anything, nor bend, on the car. Nor cutting the new lines. Don't buy any addtional kit as you will see just how easy and cheap it is. You do not need to alter your OEM lines in any way.

Your local FLAPS sell everything you need to convert from the MM's metric bubble flair to the linelocks standard thread double flair.

Easiest 15 minutes ever.

Also I opted for what is basically a door bell button for the activation switch, cost $4 from home depot and works flawlessly.

I'll take a couple pics in a couple minutes.

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

[justbob]

Keep in mind the front brake port is on the front of the master on 03's and on the rear for 04's. Starting in order of the system is a 1) metric bubble X standard bubble fitting 2) about a 10" long 3/16's standard bubble X standard flair line 3) 1/4" IPS X 3/16's adapter.

Returning from line lock to the car is 1) Another 1/4" adaptor 2) About a 6" long 3/16's standard flair X metric bubble flair line 3) a metric bubble flair coupling 4) OEM line unmolested and can be converted back in under a minute.

Once again, after figuring out the right fittings, this was the easiet mod I have yet to do on this car. Also, there is probably 10 different ways you could convert over, this was the easiest with what I could round up. Never a leak, and works great.

http://img.tapatalk.com/aeff610c-9e7f-e12a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aeff610c-9e8c-e8fd.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aeff610c-9e99-d178.jpg

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[bugsyc]

Thak you JustBob for helping out.Do you have an 04? Mine looks different.2 lines into distribution block and 4 out...I was hoping to use my defroster switch because the deroster hasn't worked since window tinting.Has a light and everything...So,you're saying I don't need any new lines??If you have a minute and look in summits part book,they sell just the line lock solenoid.Either Hurst(more money)or summit..They sell an install kit with fittings and lines or you can buy just the fittings..You're saying all I need is the line lock solenoid and the fittings???With the four lines coming out of the bottom of the distribution block,which are the front lines..I'll post some pictures tomorrow..Your way sounds much more better....

[justbob]

Mine is an 03. You don't touch anything at the distribution box, only the one line at the master like my pic.

Correct, you only need the unit itself. Everything else can be had at any auto part store on the cheap.

I've used mine countless times without failure.

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

[bugsyc]

Here are the pictures of my brake line set-up.Factory OEM.If you can tell me again what I need to do and where I would be very gratefull.Which lines are going to the front brakes etc...A big thanks to Just Bob..You said only the line from the master cylinder is touched,is that the one closer to firewall or the one more foward towards engine....Also which Solenoid did you use,Hurst,Summitt or B&D or Biondo??? BTW mine is a 300A,no traction lock,Also,I'm still going to need a line bender???

[Black_Noise]

that is down at the abs module/distribution block.... wrong area, go up to the master cylinder like JustBob is saying.

[bugsyc]

that is down at the abs module/distribution block.... wrong area, go up to the master cylinder like JustBob is saying.
Pic #2 and # 4 is the master cylinder.just painted black. Also Bob,Don't I need a couple of block off fittings.screwed into solenoid with no opening??

[bugsyc]

[QUOTE=justbob;1201777]Keep in mind the front brake port is on the front of the master on 03's and on the rear for 04's. Starting in order of the system is a 1) metric bubble X standard bubble fitting 2) about a 10" long 3/16's standard bubble X standard flair line 3) 1/4" IPS X 3/16's adapter.

Returning from line lock to the car is 1) Another 1/4" adaptor 2) About a 6" long 3/16's standard flair X metric bubble flair line 3) a metric bubble flair coupling 4) OEM line unmolested and can be converted back in under a minute.

Once again, after figuring out the right fittings, this was the easiet mod I have yet to do on this car. Also, there is probably 10 different ways you could convert over, this was the easiest with what I could round up. Never a leak, and works great.

http://img.tapatalk.com/aeff610c-9e7f-e12a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aeff610c-9e8c-e8fd.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aeff610c-9e99-d178.jpg

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.[/QUOTE How did you make the bends in the 2 new lines..a line bender,which one or just by hand..thanks

[blazen71]

If you can't see what Bob did in his pics, which is clearly shown, maybe someone else should do this for you. Brakes are serious and important for yours and others safety. Don't mess with them if you don't understand!

[bugsyc]

If you can't see what Bob did in his pics, which is clearly shown, maybe someone else should do this for you. Brakes are serious and important for yours and others safety. Don't mess with them if you don't understand!
Thanks for your concern..I think I can handle this..JustBob was being helpfull and I was just looking for some clarification..

[Black_Noise]

Pic #2 and # 4 is the master cylinder.just painted black. Also Bob,Don't I need a couple of block off fittings.screwed into solenoid with no opening??


From JustBob's pics you should be able to see whats going on with the install.


Im not trying to slam you or anything, but after that PM you sent, I recommend that you get some help with this..... brakes are serious!!

I would rather have help anyday from someone who knows, than maybe get into an accident because I was not sure on everything I was doing.

[justbob]

Bugsyc, what are you not seeing here? The ONLY line you remove and reroute is the front master cylinder line (Closest to headlights)..

In order.
1)Foot on brake.
2)Fluid in front line now goes to linelock, instead on distribution block.
3) fluid leaves linelock and now heads to distribution block.

It really is tthat easy.

You brought up a good point however. Traction controlled cars are hooked up differently or do not work well or at all. I can't recall that hook up.

Yes you need a bender, they can be had for about $4. Also yes you will need two 1/4" IPS brass plugs if yours doesn't come with them. Mine is a Hurst roll control bought used for like $40.

I hope this clears things up.
Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

[justbob]

Edit for double post and tired.

[Spectragod]

Bugsyc, what are you not seeing here? The ONLY line you remove and reroute is the front master cylinder line (Closest to headlights)..

In order.
1)Foot on brake.
2)Fluid in front line now goes to linelock, instead on distribution block.
3) fluid leaves linelock and now heads to distribution block.

It really is tthat easy.

You brought up a good point however. Traction controlled cars are hooked up differently or do not work well or at all. I can't recall that hook up.

Yes you need a bender, they can be had for about $4. Also yes you will need two 1/4" IPS brass plugs if yours doesn't come with them. Mine is a Hurst roll control bought used for like $40.

I hope this clears things up.
Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

IIRC, the cars with TC need to be hooked up with a pair of line locks, after the ABS/TC unit. For those of us that need to lock the front wheels to do a burnout.:burnout:

[bugsyc]

OK guys,I got it now...Thanks for all the help.It is quite easy.

[bugsyc]

IIRC, the cars with TC need to be hooked up with a pair of line locks, after the ABS/TC unit. For those of us that need to lock the front wheels to do a burnout.:burnout:
What does IPS stand for??

[bugsyc]

Bugsyc, what are you not seeing here? The ONLY line you remove and reroute is the front master cylinder line (Closest to headlights)..

In order.
1)Foot on brake.
2)Fluid in front line now goes to linelock, instead on distribution block.
3) fluid leaves linelock and now heads to distribution block.

It really is tthat easy.

You brought up a good point however. Traction controlled cars are hooked up differently or do not work well or at all. I can't recall that hook up.

Yes you need a bender, they can be had for about $4. Also yes you will need two 1/4" IPS brass plugs if yours doesn't come with them. Mine is a Hurst roll control bought used for like $40.

I hope this clears things up.
Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.
Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me.I understand the process now..Just waiting for the part to get here..You are a gentleman.Thank you again

[justbob]

What does IPS stand for??

International Pipe Thread.

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

[bugsyc]

Bob,I want tothank you publicly for your patience with me..I know what I need to get and what to do thanks to you..You're a good guy.Thanks again...bugsy....:beer: Will post completed pics

[tbone]

I'm getting ready to do this. Does the antilock brake module need to be opened to bleed the brakes properly? I had all kinds of bleeding issues when I replaced my master.

[fastblackmerc]

I'm getting ready to do this. Does the antilock brake module need to be opened to bleed the brakes properly? I had all kinds of bleeding issues when I replaced my master.

If the master cylinder was bench bled before installation there would be minimal air to get out. If the you do need to get air out you'll most likely need the ABS scan tool to cycle the ABS pump.

[fastblackmerc]

I noticed that it was mentioned that '04's with traction control need two line locks after the ABS. Is this true?

[tbone]

If the master cylinder was bench bled before installation there would be minimal air to get out. If the you do need to get air out you'll most likely need the ABS scan tool to cycle the ABS pump.

I did bench bleed it but had a hell of a time getting the air out of the system, even with opening up the abs module. In the end, speed bleeders gave me the best results.

[justbob]

I'm getting ready to do this. Does the antilock brake module need to be opened to bleed the brakes properly? I had all kinds of bleeding issues when I replaced my master.


NO! Don't touch it.


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

I noticed that it was mentioned that '04's with traction control need two line locks after the ABS. Is this true?


It's been done with one Jim but a few had issues. Seems two is the easier way?


Builder Of Badassery

[tbone]

NO! Don't touch it.


Builder Of Badassery

Alrighty then.

What's your opinion of the SS lines Bob? Worth the money vs improvement potential?

[justbob]

Alrighty then.

What's your opinion of the SS lines Bob? Worth the money vs improvement potential?


Ask anyone here and the answer is yes. After driving many many Marauders with them and comparing to my stock lines, I personally see NO difference. Put a little concrete under your boots, she'll stop plenty fine with a heavier foot.


Builder Of Badassery

[tbone]

Well, I changed out all the lines with new oem when I revamped the entire braking system. I thought these would be a nice addition to my Hurst line lock and save me the trouble of bleeding the system again if I do it later, but won't go there if it is not a not a big performance advantage.

[cheapthrillb2]

I don't wanna start a new topic, so figured I'd just bump this one with my question.

03 minus Trac control. I'm assuming I just got a bum line lock. But trying to isolate the rear brakes from working, instead of holding the front brakes. I won't to prevent the rear from working, so I can control the fronts with the pedal.


Tapped into the rear line on the master cyl. Between abs and Mc. The line lock clicks when activated, but my brakes still lock up. Tried switching polarity on the valve, not obviously labeled. Made no difference. Is it possible the abs controller is still rerouting pressure to the rear or do I just have a bum unit? It's an allstar brand line lock.

[cheapthrillb2]

Took the all star off. Put a new Hurst on, in the front brake position. Did exactly as outlined in this thread and several others here on mm.net. Verified +/- to the valve. Can feel just a slight bump inside the valve when activated. Bled the brakes with the scanner. Tried pumping the brakes with valve activated along with every other possible thing I could find, still won't work.

[MyBlackBeasts]

I don't wanna start a new topic, so figured I'd just bump this one with my question.

03 minus Trac control. I'm assuming I just got a bum line lock. But trying to isolate the rear brakes from working, instead of holding the front brakes. I won't to prevent the rear from working, so I can control the fronts with the pedal.


Tapped into the rear line on the master cyl. Between abs and Mc. The line lock clicks when activated, but my brakes still lock up. Tried switching polarity on the valve, not obviously labeled. Made no difference. Is it possible the abs controller is still rerouting pressure to the rear or do I just have a bum unit? It's an allstar brand line lock.


The Willwood unit will do what you want. Operation description says when activated it will block pressure to brakes (opposite of Hurst LL operation) so install in rear brake feed line, activate to prevent pressure to rears and you have what you want.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-9921/overview/

[justbob]

What if you tapped into the rear line and reverse the in/out lines?


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[cheapthrillb2]

This is currently how it is. The top port on the roll control is going to the master cyl. And bottom port to the abs controller.

[justbob]

Took the all star off. Put a new Hurst on, in the front brake position. Did exactly as outlined in this thread and several others here on mm.net. Verified +/- to the valve. Can feel just a slight bump inside the valve when activated. Bled the brakes with the scanner. Tried pumping the brakes with valve activated along with every other possible thing I could find, still won't work.



If I’m reading this right, you tried hooking it up the normal way and it isn’t holding the fronts correct?

Are you holding the pedal firmly, then pushing the button (and holding it) and letting off the pedal? The only way I see it not working is the line in and line out are installed backwards or a faulty unit. These don’t really have a record of being defective.


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[cheapthrillb2]

It's currently setup in the front position.

Push pedal firmly, activate roll control, let off pedal. Does not hold fronts applied.

Push pedal firmly, activate roll control, let off brake, pump brake again firmly, let off brake still doesn't stay applied.
That's both with or without the car running.


The all-star valve, when activated made an audible click when engaged and could firmly feel the click while holding it.

The Hurst, cannot hear anything when activated, while holding the valve in your hand when activating I can just barely feel something move within the valve.

[justbob]

You never take your finger off the button correct?


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[justbob]

This is currently how it is. The top port on the roll control is going to the master cyl. And bottom port to the abs controller.



Just verified same as mine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180919/48b7f181df0a7ccf066cb13b081f3c f5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180919/7ec5304b0e93b103d098c7713bb507 3f.jpg


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[cheapthrillb2]

Correct, I keep finger on the button keeping the solenoid activated.

[justbob]

I didn’t want to ask but figured I should at this point. I see absolutely no reason why it isn’t working? It’s hooked up identical to mine and I’ve never heard of a failed one?

Are your brakes working good under normal use still? (Still air somewhere)


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[justbob]

Just for giggles, have you checked the rears to see if they are holding by chance? IIRC the ports on the master were reversed in ‘04 and depending on build date you might have a crossover. Stretching here..

Other than that I have nothing?

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[cheapthrillb2]

Yeah brakes feel great. I bled them with my scanner. Better now then before I touched it messing with the valve. Didn't think they felt bad before.

07/02 build date. It's a really early one lol.

[cheapthrillb2]

When you activate your Hurst does it make an audible engagement? Or if having your hand on it when activated does it have a solid feel to it?

[Spectragod]

I was always worried about hooking up before the abs, and I see why now.

Mine, whether right or wrong, is hooked up on the outputs of the abs pump, 1 for each front wheel, they work, like I said, not certain my way is right?


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[justbob]

When you activate your Hurst does it make an audible engagement? Or if having your hand on it when activated does it have a solid feel to it?



No sound that I ever noticed. I’ll check tomorrow how it feels.


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