S/C Marauder Stumbling need help badly!

[FF1077]

I just finished putting in a used engine last week. I’ve put about 150 miles on the engine when it started stumbling out of the blue and I had to pull off the road. I was headed up a hill and it stumbled/dropped 500 rpm and then went back to normal. A minute when buy and then it got worse and worse to the point I could hardly drive. I pulled off the road and popped the hood. The first thing I noticed is the blower pulley bearing is going out. Its making a lot of noise. I pulled the belt off to see if it changed any thing and its no change. It idles just fine and the second I try and rev it up it stumbles.

Of course there are no codes and the CEL never went off.

I’ve included a video so you can see what I mean.The first part is me trying to hold it steady at 2k, the last part is just trying to rev it up.


What should I be looking at, I really need some help? Thanks.

http://youtu.be/MHAfDGGZTSI


http://youtu.be/MHAfDGGZTSI (http://youtu.be/MHAfDGGZTSI)

[RF Overlord]

Fuel delivery.

[03sport007]

Man that sucks!!!!! First thing I noticed is your air/fuel ratio is different then mine. I'm at 14.7 almost immediately after startup. Done a data logging? Fuel pressure, fuel pump duty cycle, etc?

[JoeBoomz]

Also check vacuum hoses, you will have a hard time keeping it running with a big vacuum leak. Especially if this has just started out of the blue.

[FF1077]

First thing I noticed is your air/fuel ratio is different then mine. I'm at 14.7 almost immediately after startup. Done a data logging? Fuel pressure, fuel pump duty cycle, etc?

If you mean the gauge, that is the temp of the I/C fluid.
I haven't done any data logging. How should I do that?
Im going to change the fuel filter today.

[LANDY]

Check for fuel pressure at the rail port, also make sure all vaccumm lines are good

[FF1077]

I got to the car to move it with a buddies trailer. I reveved it up a few times and it didnt stumble like last night. When we got it to my buddies place I replaced the fuel filter and put the S/C belt back. Then i let it sit and idle for 20 minutes or so and this time when I revved it up it started stumbling again. The CEL came on and I got codes P0138, P1406 and P1336.
I measured the fuel pressure and its all over the place. It started at 20PSI and would jump to 30 when revving and before stumbling. Then it would drop back down to around 15 and finally settle around 28.
I dont think thats high enough PSI for a Marauder, let alone a S/C Maruader is it?

[RF Overlord]

No, it isn't. I believe it's supposed to be 39 lbs.

[LANDY]

Yes you should be at 39 psi at the rails. Make sure your getting good voltage at the pump, if you are your problem is inside tank.

[03sport007]

I see 39psi of fuel pressure that stays pretty consistent as I drive. It steadily gets higher as my iat2 gets hotter then 100 degrees.

Good Luck I know with everything your car has been through this hast to be very frustrating!!!!

[Black_Kannin]

I just had my PCV valve and hosed replaced......gave my baby turrets syndrome. Check to make sure you have good vacuum seal!!

[FF1077]

Good Luck I know with everything your car has been through this hast to be very frustrating!!!!

Thanks, I was SOOO glad to have it back on the road. It looks like its going to be back down for a while if I have to pull the blower off and have the bearing replaced.

[FF1077]

I just had my PCV valve and hosed replaced......gave my baby turrets syndrome. Check to make sure you have good vacuum seal!!

I did go through and check all the vaccum connections. My setup goes to a catch can and then to the PCV valve. Everything was tight and there are no vaccum leaks, did the carb cleaner trick.

[FF1077]

Yes you should be at 39 psi at the rails. Make sure your getting good voltage at the pump, if you are your problem is inside tank.

I will check that the next time I get a chance to work on the car. Where should I check at?
Ive tried using the search function and it comes up the hundreds of results and so far none are what I need.

[FF1077]

From what I have read it appears my pump is dying. I talked with the person who originally owned my car and he said he put in the SVT Focus Fuel Pump. Ive been doing some window shopping incase I need to buy one. I see a lot of them are aftermarket brands. Rockauto has Airtex, Delphi, Valeo, Carter, Motorcraft and Bosch. Only Airtex and Delphi are just the pump, the others have the pump, strainer and sender.

Is there any brand I should choose over the other?

Thanks for all the help, you guys have kept me from pulling my hair out.

[03sport007]

I replaced my pump with a Ford GT pump only(No strainer, sender). At that time people recommended that pump over the SVT Focus pump. I think it flows a little more and was cheaper. The guys that do the eaton swaps on Mach 1 swear that the Aviator Fuel pump is the way to go. Cheap and out flows both the GT and Focus pumps. They also say it fits the stock connectors. I believe all three are made by walbro. Of the ones you listed I'd stick with a Motorcraft of Bosch. But in today's world who really knows who makes what.

[FF1077]

I though about the Ford GT pump, but it seems that I may need to have the tune adjusted.

[03sport007]

I though about the Ford GT pump, but it seems that I may need to have the tune adjusted.

I'm no expert but I dont believe getting a new/better flowing fuel pump requires a new tune.

[-Matt-]

IMO it sounds like a COP to me

[dmjarosz]

Some people on here have recommended the Walbro GSS342 fuel pump. I Think its a 255 lph and its boat loads less expensive than the Ford GT pump. You do have to splice in a different connector though.

[JoeBoomz]

One of the vendors here can sell you a GT40 pump to replace yours. The tune will need to be adjusted. You can try without but be prepared for some stumbling as the car re-learns and go gentle on it at first.

But by the video you posted I don't think it's a fuel issue. I had a similar issue when my boost blew off a vacuum line. I could barely drive the car because it would drop in RPM's, stumble, and turn off. Or ignition problem across more than one COP (or power distribution) to make it stumble that badly.

[RacerX]

I'm no expert but I dont believe getting a new/better flowing fuel pump requires a new tune.
Actually, yes. It will work, but, there are parameters that are changed when you change to a new pump.


IMO it sounds like a COP to me
After my recent COP probs, I agree. It's a possibility at least!

[03sport007]

Actually, yes. It will work, but, there are parameters that are changed when you change to a new pump.


I stand correctied.

After my recent COP probs, I agree. It's a possibility at least!

How can it be COP with fuel pressure all over the place?

I would also think a vacuum leak bad enough that it wount rev past 1500rpms would be easy to hear?

If the fuel pump was failing wouldn't the duty cycle be high?

It's not even my car and I'm getting frustrated just thinking about it.

[-Matt-]

How can it be COP with fuel pressure all over the place?

I would also think a vacuum leak bad enough that it wount rev past 1500rpms would be easy to hear?

If the fuel pump was failing wouldn't the duty cycle be high?

It's not even my car and I'm getting frustrated just thinking about it.


Where have you seen fuel pressure data?



Here lets do something simple.

Would the car run like crap, then hours later or the next day run normal with a vacuum leak? Probably not.

If it was a massive fuel issue, then IMO it would be the same as above.

Now I have see COP's and/or the Ignition harness make cars stumble REAL bad one day, then drive fine for another 60 miles.

Check the computer at Ford to see if you are getting any no-fire codes on a cylinder, also check the problematic harness behind the drivers valve cover and firewall.

[FF1077]

Where have you seen fuel pressure data?


The fuel pressure data comes from me watching the fuel pressure gauge I attached to the rail. Essentially it sits at 20 PSI at idle. When I rev it up it never goes higher than 30 PSI.

So even if I had bad COP's dont I need to address the fuel issue first?

Thanks again.

[LANDY]

The fuel pressure data comes from me watching the fuel pressure gauge I attached to the rail. Essentially it sits at 20 PSI at idle. When I rev it up it never goes higher than 30 PSI.

So even if I had bad COP's dont I need to address the fuel issue first?

Thanks again.with the info you have provided i would not worry about COP's. If you dattalog the car you should see the voltage at the pump, fuel pump duty cycle, and fuel pressure.

[RacerX]

OK, out of curiosity, what does rail pressure spike at on average if you open the throttle all the way really quick and snap it shut? It should spike up in the 40+psi range for a split second as the injector pulse shortens and it takes the fp a sec to catch up by slowing down. Can you send me a log?

[FF1077]

If I snap it open really quick its hitting a average of 30 PSI, never going a few PSI over 30 either.

What do I need to data log?
I have the Torque app for my phone and have a log from it, but I dont know if it has what people need to see.
Its too large to post here though.

[RacerX]

I was thinking you had an sct tuner for some reason. You do have fuel pressure probs. No doubt there.
The fuel pump was upgraded? Who did it? Fuel sock jammed aginst the bottom? A clog somewhere in the lines?

[-Matt-]

The fuel pressure data comes from me watching the fuel pressure gauge I attached to the rail. Essentially it sits at 20 PSI at idle. When I rev it up it never goes higher than 30 PSI.

So even if I had bad COP's dont I need to address the fuel issue first?

Thanks again.


Sorry i must have passed over that info while reading your thread.

Do you have a BAP?

[FF1077]

I have a tuner that came with the car, I will look and see what brand it is tonight.

The pump was changed to the SVT Focus pump by the original owner.

I dont even want to think about a clog in the lines.

I do have a BAP.

[-Matt-]

I have a tuner that came with the car, I will look and see what brand it is tonight.

The pump was changed to the SVT Focus pump by the original owner.

I dont even want to think about a clog in the lines.

I do have a BAP.


Can you hear the BAP running?

[LANDY]

I highly recommend you to buy an sct tuner if you dont have one and offcourse have the car retune since you might not know how the previous owner got it tuned. Once you fix your problem.
Im gonna go on a limb and ask you to take the hat and FP assembly out, visually inspect everything, if all looks good grab a voltmeter and check for voltage at the FP. Thats the other way to do it if you dont have a source of dattaloging.

[FF1077]

Can you hear the BAP running?

I was thinking about this. With the Trilogy setup, doesnt the BAP only get switched on when you hit boost?

[Spectragod]

I was thinking about this. With the Trilogy setup, doesnt the BAP only get switched on when you hit boost?

Yes, unless you bypass the Hobbs switch.

[-Matt-]

I was thinking about this. With the Trilogy setup, doesnt the BAP only get switched on when you hit boost?

Mine makes a high pitch whine anytime the car is running

[FF1077]

This is the tuner that I have.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/thumbs/SCT_Tuner.JPG (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/21665)

[RacerX]

That should have the Trilogy tune on it. Looks like the one that would have come with your Trilogy kit from Jerry. Can't hurt to try it. If it's locked to another car, it will let you know.

[FF1077]

So it will data log?

[dmjarosz]

Probably not the cause but maybe its the FPDM going bad? Ive seen electronics behave wierdly depending on ambient air pressure, humidity, and temperature.

[FF1077]

Probably not the cause but maybe its the FPDM going bad? Ive seen electronics behave wierdly depending on ambient air pressure, humidity, and temperature.

It looks like the last place the Fuel Pump gets power through is the Inetia Switch, after the FPDM. So I am thinking that if I measure power there and I have 12 VDC then its not that?

All of you have given me a lot to think about, thanks for all of it!

[LANDY]

I would also wire the BAP before the FPDM and bypass the hobbs switch once you find the problem.

[FF1077]

I went up to where my car is and I measure voltage in the wires going into the FPDM.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/C3127_Connector.JPG


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Fuel_Pump_Circuit.JPG


At the PK/BK wire I have 13.76 volts with the car running.
Does that mean that the problem is with my pump since its getting the full voltage?

Thanks.

[RacerX]

Have someone turn the key to the accessory on position while you are down on the ground near the trunk. If your fuel pump is working, you WILL hear it as it pressurizes the system.

[FF1077]

Have someone turn the key to the accessory on position while you are down on the ground near the trunk. If your fuel pump is working, you WILL hear it as it pressurizes the system.

The pump runs, the fuel pressure wont go any higher than 20 PSI at idle.
Im thinking its dying.

[03sport007]

The pump runs, the fuel pressure wont go any higher than 20 PSI at idle.
Im thinking its dying.

I think you're right.

[FF1077]

I put in a new Focus SVT Fuel Pump on Monday. Fuel pressure still reads at 20 PSI when idling, but now jumps to 40 if I rev it up just a little bit. I took the car out for a quick drive and while I didnt get into it really hard, I did get into boost and the problem appears to be fixed. Before I could barely even move the car without it dying.

The bearing in the snout of the Supercharger is going out so thats why I didnt get into it hard and only drove it for a few miles. Now it will sit until I can afford to have the bearing replaced. I shouldnt have these types of problems on a 35K mile car. At the rate things are going the car is going to nickel and dime me to death and I will have to sell it.

[RacerX]

When your plenum is seeing vacuum, you don't need as much pressure to push the fuel into the heads. When you're under boost, the fuel pressure is more to compensate for the additional pressure. Good news though!

[FF1077]

This car hates me.


It appears I may have gotten a bad pump, but im not sure and need some suggestions.

I got the supercharger all fixed up and took it out for a drive on Friday night. I’d put about 50 miles on it when I decided to get into the boost. It starts cutting out just like it did before I replaced the pump every time I got into boost. I park it and ponder the situation till Saturday morning when I have to go to work. I get to the freeway and decided to get into the boost. It’s perfect, boosted to the max flying along without a hiccup. Get out of work and by the time I’m almost home its back to cutting out if I give more than a moderate amount of throttle. So bad that I could barely make it up a hill.
Sunday morning I am going to take it to a buddy’s house and have him use his fancy scanner on the car. I hope to limp it there as its pretty close. On the way there again its running perfect, boosted to the max flying along without a hiccup. Get there and he put his scanner on it and no codes, no pending codes. It’s idling while we do this. We go to take it for a drive and it’s like it was Saturday night so we turn around for fear of not making it back. When we do we hook up the fuel pressure gauge and it’s showing 20 PSI at idle and again it’s not increasing the fuel pressure like I think it should. A wide open blip of the throttle has it jump to about 30 PSI and then when the RPM’S drop the fuel pressure drops to near zero before settling at 20 PSI while idling.

I’m thinking I have a bad pump. I checked the voltage at the FPDM before I replaced it and it was 13V+.
Is it just luck of the draw or is something killing my pumps?
This time I also turned the BAP all the way up just to see if that helped, it didn’t.
Why would it run perfect both mornings? Was it because it was cooler, or was the pump just working better and starts to crap out after running for a while?
I’m not thinking it’s any kind of obstruction, or if it is why would it run perfect both mornings.

Is there ANYTHING else I should look at?

[Curless]

I don't like your idling fuel pressure, no matter what my info says 35 - 70...at all times. With your fuel pressure jumping all over I would want to know why. What pump did you go with? Your chances of getting a bad pump are slim to none if you used a quality piece. I do not know what you are using for fuel pressure regulation but it seems like its not working properly. Just MHO...

[FF1077]

I went with a Delphi Pump for a 2003 Focus SVT from Rockauto. The Focus pump is what was in the car when I bought it. I keep thinking the same things, that the odds of a bad pump are slim.

I changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator with another I have on hand.

[Curless]

The only other thing I can think of off hand is low fuel, or the tank baffle is broken. Did you notice if the baffle around the pump was still in the tank and mounted?

[FF1077]

The tank was almost full, it had at least 15 gallons in it.
I dont know about the baffle.

[boatmangc]

I shouldnt have these types of problems on a 35K mile car. At the rate things are going the car is going to nickel and dime me to death and I will have to sell it.

Hang in there man, I had a few bugs when I bought mine. It had 28000 on it when I picked it up.
I blew the motor 3000 miles after I bought it and found that the original Trilogy install was not so good.
Now 20,000 miles later I'm all smiles, I still work on it all the time but hey, if it wasn't the Marauder it would be something else.

I used the Aeromotive 340 when I dropped my tank.
At WOT I have never seen any more than a 60% duty cycle on it.
My BAP has always been cranked up all the way.

Like Landy said. Buy an Xcal3, download Live Link and go run the car with the laptop hooked up.
You can pick and monitor just about anything, then replay it and watch all the stuff you picked to monitor.

Pretty awesome.

[LANDY]

If you made sure there is not and obstruture where the fuel travels specially inside the tank. I would not spend another dime untill datalogging it. Also get your self a wideband you wont regret it.

[03sport007]

Man this sucks!!!! Sorry about your luck.

I have a excal2 that's locked to my car but I believe can be used on any car for data logging. You're more the welcome to use if needed.

I'd be very nervouse about going into boost until you get this figured out. If you've got fuel issues it can still be running lean even when it feels good. You don't want to add a blown motor to your problems.

A wide band and data logging are the only way to know whats going on.

Might want to think about having someone check it out. I would think an experienced tuner on a dyno could nail it down pretty quick

[LANDY]

This car hates me.


It appears I may have gotten a bad pump, but im not sure and need some suggestions.

I got the supercharger all fixed up and took it out for a drive on Friday night. I’d put about 50 miles on it when I decided to get into the boost. It starts cutting out just like it did before I replaced the pump every time I got into boost. I park it and ponder the situation till Saturday morning when I have to go to work. I get to the freeway and decided to get into the boost. It’s perfect, boosted to the max flying along without a hiccup. Get out of work and by the time I’m almost home its back to cutting out if I give more than a moderate amount of throttle. So bad that I could barely make it up a hill.
Sunday morning I am going to take it to a buddy’s house and have him use his fancy scanner on the car. I hope to limp it there as its pretty close. On the way there again its running perfect, boosted to the max flying along without a hiccup. Get there and he put his scanner on it and no codes, no pending codes. It’s idling while we do this. We go to take it for a drive and it’s like it was Saturday night so we turn around for fear of not making it back. When we do we hook up the fuel pressure gauge and it’s showing 20 PSI at idle and again it’s not increasing the fuel pressure like I think it should. A wide open blip of the throttle has it jump to about 30 PSI and then when the RPM’S drop the fuel pressure drops to near zero before settling at 20 PSI while idling.

I’m thinking I have a bad pump. I checked the voltage at the FPDM before I replaced it and it was 13V+.
Is it just luck of the draw or is something killing my pumps?
This time I also turned the BAP all the way up just to see if that helped, it didn’t.
Why would it run perfect both mornings? Was it because it was cooler, or was the pump just working better and starts to crap out after running for a while?
I’m not thinking it’s any kind of obstruction, or if it is why would it run perfect both mornings.

Is there ANYTHING else I should look at? I just sent you a pm with my number, i myself want to know and help you fix your problem.

[FF1077]

Youve both got PM's and many thanks to you both.

As it sits, the car cannot be driven. I have it parked at a freinds place until I can get time to work on it.

Anyone interested in the Torque data log from my cell phone app send me a PM with your email addy and Ill send it to you. Its less than a MB, but to large to post here.

[FF1077]

Josh and Landy helped me on my car this weekend. Thank you both very much, especially Josh. We got stuck working outside and he was soaking wet.

We got Josh's SCT Tuner hooked up and took the car for a quick drive. At first it started out stumbling just a little bit, but over time it got worse. During all that stumbling it looks like my fuel pump is working within acceptable parameters. Josh and I swapped over his FPDM and regulator to rule those out just in case. It made no difference.


I think it’s safe to rule out the fuel system at this point. That leaves me with air and spark.

When the car is first taken out it doesn’t stumble as badly as it does when it’s been on the road a while. That makes me think it’s not something mechanical, its electrical. I am beginning to wonder if I don’t have a pair of COP’s that have gone bad on me.

I’m even beginning to think stumbling isn’t a good term either. It’s like someone shut the ignition of for a fraction of a second. Josh came up with a good suggestion, to take a video of what the car does when it “stumbles”. It’s going to be a week or two, but next time I am with the car I will do that. Maybe Josh can post his thoughts too.

[MMBLUE]

This has had me thinking on your issue. Think of your problem this way. Expandsion and contraction. When things are cold they shrink, when hot expand. So, I wonder if there is air that is getting in not metered. Either through the pipes, fittings or intake itself. Try this, when car is warm and running at temp, get a can of ether or similar, and spray in different suspect areas to see if idle changes etc. What do you think?

[Vortech347]

Something small and easy. Did you replace the sensor itself on the end of the fuel rail?

[FF1077]

Something small and easy. Did you replace the sensor itself on the end of the fuel rail?

I did. I changed it with a spare I had and then again with the one off Josh's car just to be sure.

[FF1077]

This has had me thinking on your issue. Think of your problem this way. Expandsion and contraction. When things are cold they shrink, when hot expand. So, I wonder if there is air that is getting in not metered. Either through the pipes, fittings or intake itself. Try this, when car is warm and running at temp, get a can of ether or similar, and spray in different suspect areas to see if idle changes etc. What do you think?

That’s along the lines of what I was thinking but with the COPS. Heat and electrical resistance. The longer they are “on” the worse the problem gets.

I will certainly try what you suggest, it’s a great idea.

[FF1077]

Worked on the car again, it still hates me.
So with the thought that I had a Bad COP or two I bought four new ones from Rock Auto (all I can afford). I chose the Motorcraft brand. I swapped out all four on the Driver’s side. Buttoned the car back up and let it run for a while to get it nice and warm. I took the car for a drive and the problem is still there, no change.
So then I got a can of starting fluid and sprayed any place I thought a vacuum leak could be. Idle never changed. I then swapped out the four COP’s on the passenger side. Buttoned the car up again and went for a drive. The problem is still there, absolutely no change.

One more thing I am going to try is changing out the spark plugs. My torque wrench broke when I torqued down the intake, so I am waiting to change the plugs until I can borrow another one.

After the plugs I am out of ideas.

I was so pi$$ed off I forgot to take any new video of what its doing.

[MMBLUE]

What about a cam sensor :confused: Anyone else on this one???

[Charged]

Hello FF1077, I purchased sanco's marauder I got it home had it for two days and then went out on 4th of July after it ran for about 5 min, got in started driving and bam it started stumbling bad. I took it back home replaced the fuel filter and the sensor on the fuel rail. With no luck I then pulled the tank out to replace the fuel pump and whalah the little rubber hose coming out of the top of the fuel pump was split, sending half the fuel back in the tank. I pulled the hose off replaced it with a new one and used hose clamps to put it back together and haven't had a problem yet. Just something I experienced, hope this helps and I hope you get it fixed soon :beer:

[Spectragod]

One simple thing you may look at, the spark plug insulators. when you pull the plug out, hold it as if it is in the motor, electrode down, and make sure you didn't have an insulator break and slide down to the tip.

I had this happen once, I chased that misfire till I pulled my plugs, found 1 with a broken insulator and when in the installed position, it would slide down, instant mis-fire. So basically, when you pull the plugs, you shouldn't be able to shake them and hear any noise.

[FF1077]

What about a cam sensor :confused: Anyone else on this one???

The original owner contacted me and said that I should think about the cam/crank sensors. I need to try and find a testing procedure.

[FF1077]

Hello FF1077, I purchased sanco's marauder I got it home had it for two days and then went out on 4th of July after it ran for about 5 min, got in started driving and bam it started stumbling bad. I took it back home replaced the fuel filter and the sensor on the fuel rail. With no luck I then pulled the tank out to replace the fuel pump and whalah the little rubber hose coming out of the top of the fuel pump was split, sending half the fuel back in the tank. I pulled the hose off replaced it with a new one and used hose clamps to put it back together and haven't had a problem yet. Just something I experienced, hope this helps and I hope you get it fixed soon :beer:
I thought about this and I think maybe I can rule it out as the problem. According to all the reading Josh took my car is getting all the fuel it needs, even when its cutting out. So if the hose was split and I was losing fuel it would have shown up in the readings as either a decrease in fuel or a increase in the work of the pump.

[FF1077]

One simple thing you may look at, the spark plug insulators. when you pull the plug out, hold it as if it is in the motor, electrode down, and make sure you didn't have an insulator break and slide down to the tip.

I had this happen once, I chased that misfire till I pulled my plugs, found 1 with a broken insulator and when in the installed position, it would slide down, instant mis-fire. So basically, when you pull the plugs, you shouldn't be able to shake them and hear any noise.

I will probably end up replacing all the plugs just to be safe.
It would be nice if they were the problem.

[justbob]

Obviously this won't help you, but ever since a year ago, I can no longer power wash my engine (never once an issue for years prior) or go thru a car wash because of the hood (class glass cowl) or I get the exact same sound as in your video. It's happened twice now, first time in ran so rich my eyes were watering trying my best to limp her home 2 miles. Second time off the charts lean and a real sumbitch to keep running, feathering the gas/WOT, didn't matter, it took years of owning POS's knowledge to keep her running to get back home.

After exhaustive efforts, I flat out gave up. Both times after about three days she would cough up a storm and come to life. I have separately sprayed everything possible countless times with a spray bottle and still can't find the cause.

My only question to you is, what was the moisture/humidity levels when it began to act up compared to when it ran good?

Please chime in when you get this resolved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FF1077]

My only question to you is, what was the moisture/humidity levels when it began to act up compared to when it ran good?

Please chime in when you get this resolved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When It first started it was July and the weather was warm, in the 70's. Thats when I took the Video. It was about the same weather after I replaced the Fuel pump and had the blower repaired. This last time I worked on it, it was raining and in the 50's.

[FF1077]

In my latest go round with Trilogy 90 I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft AGSF22C/SP 505 plugs. I let the car idle and warm up for 20 minutes before I took it for a drive. No change, still doing it.
Here is a link to the video I took of it cutting out.

http://youtu.be/57EDKz6auNI

I’m down to the crank and cam sensors left to change.


Any new thoughts or ideas?

[adtaylor]

I had a similar problem back in October with my car. Out of no where my car started Stumbling at right about 60mph so I called Lido up. To make a long story short I took the car to Lido to have him look at it. He told me the car justed needed new spark plugs no big deal. He changed the spark plugs out, but the car still stumbled. Lido then tried several diffrent brand of spark plugs and checked and made some adjusments to the tune, but the car still contiuned to stumble. Lido then said the only other thing he could think it could be is bad COP's. With the car having 84,xxx miles on it I decided to have him replace all of the COP's instead of just the one or ones that he found that were bad. I went this route to insure me that I wouldn't be going thru the same issues months from now with the car. It's been about two months and the car drives better than ever now.

[FF1077]

Because I hate threads that describe a problem I have and there is never a resolution, I am updating this thread to say problem solved.

Major thanks go to Landy and 03sport007 for taking the time to personally help me with my problem. They both helped me realize that fuel was not the issue thanks to 03sprt007’s data logging. 03sport007 also let me swap out components with his car and that saved me from buying parts that I wouldn’t have needed. Not to mention we were doing it in the pouring rain and we both got soaked!

So the original owner suggested I look at the Cam and Crank sensors as they could be causing the problems I described. That was on my list of things to look into, but it jumped to the top of the list when I read this.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/svt-dohc/1203938-help-97-cobra-breaking-up-5000rpm.html (http://forums.corral.net/forums/svt-dohc/1203938-help-97-cobra-breaking-up-5000rpm.html)

That is EXACTLY what my car was doing. As soon as I could I swapped out the crank sensor and have enjoyed three glorious weeks of a perfectly running Marauder. I should have followed his advice many months ago!

There was this one REALLY spooky moment though. I was on my way to work about a week ago in stop and go traffic. I was contemplating how it seemed like the problem was fixed, everything was fine and I was so happy. Then I started to get negative and was thinking that with my luck the CEL would come on soon (I have horrible luck) and I would have another problem that needed fixing. Not 5 minutes later the CEL came on. It was two codes (don’t recall what they were) for the left and right rear O2 sensors. I know I had one of them before when my collector gasket was leaking. I cleared the codes and nothing since. (Crosses fingers)

[Odinson]

Thanks for posting the solution.

Hey maybe it wasn't just bad luck but intuition kicking in during your hiccup. Good news about that? No intuition, no problem!

[shou]

Good for you for coming back and posting what you found!

[RF Overlord]

Mary's been having a similar issue with Phoebe. I bought a new CKP sensor but you have to pull the A/C compressor to replace it. Waiting for her to have the HVAC system pumped down to disconnect it.

After reading the link posted by FF1077, I'll try cleaning the CKP connector before going through all the other work.

[RacerX]

Btw, for anyone ever questiong wether a crank or cam sensor is bad, they are simple coils around pole magnets and if you can measure voltage between .5v and 1v (it will ocillate as you turn the engine over). You need piercing multimeter leads and extreme caution is advised.

[FF1077]

"Mary's been having a similar issue with Phoebe. I bought a new CKP sensor but you have to pull the A/C compressor to replace it. Waiting for her to have the HVAC system pumped down to disconnect it."

All I had to do was unbolt the compressor and move it a little bit and there was plenty or room.