dirt-sand on all panels of black paint

[Geo]

I have small molecules of dirt/sand on my new black paint finish which doesn't come off even when washing with a sheepskin mit.

all panels are affected

I just dumped hot water on it in the hope that it will "lift off" the molecules so that I can safely wash with my mitt (and I don't even use circular motions with the mitt to prevent scratches, I just dabb the sheetmetal).

I do not want to haze the paint from scratches (new paint!!!).

what to do?

a friend told me to take a shirt and soak it in hot water and then appy it to the paint and then lift it off. I don't want to do that as after the first application the shirt will be full of dirt. I'd have to be using 50 shirts other wise to do the job (if it even works in the first place which i doubt).

I saw this on the net
http://store.carcareonline.com/micro-restoremicrofiberdetergentconc entrate.aspx

[boatmangc]

The product you have a link to is for cleaning and restoring microfiber towels.
Did the surface contaminates get on the finish while it was still wet?
If not a clay bar will work

Got pics?
If not, put your finger on a surface where the contaminates are obvious and take a pic, that way the camera can focus on your finger and surroundings making it easier to see the issue.

[Geo]

I'll get pics when it's sunny (tommorow?)

the molecules move around with my finger and sometimes even when blowing

there was an incident with a church blasting asphalt onto my paint with a sidewalk pressure washer or (hopefully) a blower. After hosing off the bits of concrete (twice) I washed it. A day later after the wash i noted the debris on the surface.

perhaps it's as simple as me using me lesser older sheepskin mitt (as opposed to my good one) as I didn't want to filthy my nice new sheepskin mitt with minute particles.

well, perhaps after a dabb the surface with soap one more time then again with my new mitt, it will be ok.

the whole point was to be able to make a inspection report on any chips from the blower on the sidewalk so that I can make a claim.

[Ken]

How fresh is the paint? and can it be clay barred? Could it be fibers from the mitt or towel? Just a thought?

[Geo]

i don't think it's fibers from the mitts, it looks like sandy molecules.

paint is from fall of 2010 so not so brand new

[boatmangc]

1st, wash the car with your new mitt, either use your old one just for wheels or toss it.
2nd ALWAYS use 2 buckets to wash your car
1 with just clean water in it
1 with car shampoo and water

Start at the roof of the car then do the hood and trunk and then the sides when rinsing and washing.
You always want what you wash off to run off rather than run onto a panel you have already washed.

Rinse the entire car with fresh water using a high pressure hose, try and hit all of the paint directly to rinse off any particles that could be abrasive to your paint

Soak each panel with soapy water by dribbling it from your clean wash mitt,1 at a time just before washing each panel, The shampoo is as much a lubricant as it is a surfactant, coating the paint with it first allows the particles of contaminates to slide off of the painf rather than being rubbed in by a poorly lubricated wash mitt

wash 1 panel with the clean mitt then rinse it out well in the clean water (rinse bucket)

Dunk your wash mitt in the soapy water and dribble soap on the next panel, dunk the mitt again and wash the next panel.

Rinse the mitt in the rinse bucket.

Repeat this procedure for each panel.

Then after washing the entire car using this method, take the spray nozzle off of the water hose and turn the water on 1/2 way. Hold the hose end an about a 10 degree angle to each panel on a corner starting at the top and flood the entire panel with a sheet of water. This will allow the water to sheet off of the surface so you don't have to use your drying towel (Waffle Weave Microfiber or 100 percent US made white cotton with all of the stitched edges cut off).

Try to blot the water off rather than dragging it across the paint.

Using this method allows most of what you wash off of the car to be in your rinse bucket rather than being mixed into your soapy water bucket and redistributed onto your finish once again.

If you still have the contaminants on your finish after this procedure you will need a claybar and claybar lube. Follow the instructions on the box. Readily available brands are Maguires and Mothers.

Claybar it then wash it again using the above procedure. If there is still stuff on the paint after that the pressure washing moron needs to pay for your repairs.

This is how I always wash my car unless I am using a rinseless wash.

You might just want to find a detailer that knows what a 2 bucket wash is and one that does paint correction and have them take a look.

[Geo]

boatmangc:

I do every thing you say in your procedure (thanks for your detailed instructions by the way) except for the second rinse bucket. Instead I just pressure wash the mitt, almost after every panel wash, to rid the mitt of debris.

I also never use a drying towel as I am always worried about dragging anything across my sparkling clear (no orange peel) black paint.

[SC Cheesehead]

Or, you can use 1 gallon of water, 2 capfulls of Croftgate Wash 'n Wax with two microfiber towels, and get outstanding results in 1/2 the time...

[Geo]

What about those solutions detail shops have (bug and tar remover). I've seen them use it before on stubborn residue/sediments.

It goes on like soap.

[Geo]

or perhaps I could save the rest of whatever is on there as evidence for any insurance or for evidence against the third party.

It's just hard to search for chips with all these things stuck on there

[FW_Linc/Merc]

Start by taking it to a quarter car-wash and let the high pressure water dislodge as much as possible. You do not want to lift the particle out and then roll it across the surface. After the power wash then use some of the suggestions above. I might just leave the the car as-is after the power wash and then get estimates from a paint or detail shop on the cost to repair. You may want to call your auto agent as this might be covered under your policy with a deductible.

[Geo]

this are the stubborn sediment/granules

[Geo]

it's perceived that one of the flying stones (perhaps as fast as 180mph) could cause the scratch there on the roof

[JoeBoomz]

Get the church to pay for fixing it. They have lots of tithe money anyway.

[boatmangc]

Or, you can use 1 gallon of water, 2 capfulls of Croftgate Wash 'n Wax with two microfiber towels, and get outstanding results in 1/2 the time...

I use Optima No Rinse (ONR) for my rinseless wash, very similar to Croftgate.
Buti only wash with a lambs wool mitt and even using ONR I still do the 2 bucket method and I also use 2 Grit Guards, 1 in each bucket.


this are the stubborn sediment/granules

I see a pretty healthy scratch in your first picture which leads me to believe you have surface contamination and a particle came loose and stuck in the wash mitt and damaged the finish while you were washing, that will polish ( don't buff) out.

It is helpful whenever photographing paint to put your finger in the frame so you have size perspective and the camera has something to focus on besides a glossy surface.



1st take a small sandwich bag, soap down an area with contaminates on it, put your hand in the plastic bag and gently slide it around a small area. The bag somehow amplifies the sensation in your fingertips so you can tell whether the contaminates are on the surface or imbedded into the finish. I use this test to decide when a car needs to be clayed.

If you can feel them as high points then if you are comfortable doing it, clay it (even just a small area), rinse it off and blot it dry, then look to see if it appears better.
If you can't feel anything with the bag the contaminates are imbedded below the surface (doubtful) then it is time to move to correction or possibly even painting.

If it is surface contamination, after claying, do the plastic bag test again. When it is clean you will feel nothing but smoothness through the bag.

If it comes off wash the car again either with soap and water or with a no rinse product and reapply the topping (wax) of your choice.

If you aren't comfortable doing the clay bar (really easy, just follow the directions), get someone that is an EXPERIENCED detailed that does paint restoration and get them to give you an estimate to give to the church so THEIR or the 3rd parties' insurance can pay for it.

Feel free to PM me for my phone number if you want to talk about your paint, I have a lot of paint correction experience.

[Geo]

I appreciate the info and help boatmangc

where does one get grit guards?

JoeBoomz: yes, I presume the church has insurance

I just wrote two letters. One as a follow up to the church and one to my insurance company. I CCd the church letter to the insurance company as well.

I presume I will be able to designate the insurance company as the intermediary and that way the church can pay the insurance company as needed as the insurance company deals with the shop

[boatmangc]

I appreciate the info and help boatmangc

where does one get grit guards?


http://www.autogeek.net/professional-grit-guard.html


and here's a link to the ONR I was mentioning.

http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html