Really bad squeel from the drivers side...

[woaface]

I remember saying something to a few people about how my brakes squeel really bad. This set and the last set.

Deal is...they're starting to scream something awful when I'm slowing down, even slightly depressed (not fully though). Worse yet, now they do it when I've got my foot on the gas. I ran around a little bit to figure this all out. If the steering wheel is ed AT ALL to the right...the start to make noise. Straightened out and turning left...no noise. Still, they make really really ugly sounds when I'm under 10 or so mph. Once I'm under 3, it sounds like I'm stopping with nails. It's just awful.

I wanna take it in tomorrow early before I go to any of my classes and I wonder if anyone can tell me what I should expect to hear from the wrench.

[Marauderman]

I remember saying something to a few people about how my brakes squeel really bad. This set and the last set.

Deal is...they're starting to scream something awful when I'm slowing down, even slightly depressed (not fully though). Worse yet, now they do it when I've got my foot on the gas. I ran around a little bit to figure this all out. If the steering wheel is ed AT ALL to the right...the start to make noise. Straightened out and turning left...no noise. Still, they make really really ugly sounds when I'm under 10 or so mph. Once I'm under 3, it sounds like I'm stopping with nails. It's just awful.

I wanna take it in tomorrow early before I go to any of my classes and I wonder if anyone can tell me what I should expect to hear from the wrench.
Turn those squirrls loose stuck behind the brakes--their trying to get your attention to free them--from when you raced by and sucked them up!!!!! :lol:

[woaface]

:bows: :lol: :banana2: That's just funny.

My dad is giving me his credit card and I'm taking it in for that and a coolant flush around 1215-1230 tomorrow.

[Haggis]

:bows: :lol: :banana2: That's just funny.

My dad is giving me his credit card and I'm taking it in for that and a coolant flush around 1215-1230 tomorrow.


Cool, now hurry up and get those mods you wanted. Remember SUPERCHARGER!! :banana: :banana:

Oh yea, don't free those squirrels. They are just hungry and thirsty from all those WOT you do. :lol:

[woaface]

Never mind, I'm not goin anywhere today, I was up sick all night.

Don't ever eat at Jack in the Box...:puke:

[TripleTransAm]

How much mileage on the car? Original pads? Original rotors? Ever overheat the rotors?
Ever had the rotors cut?

[Haggis]

Never mind, I'm not goin anywhere today, I was up sick all night.

Don't ever eat at Jack in the Box...:puke:

Now we know why those squirrels were screaming. You were gasing them. http://smilies.sofrayt.com/1/z/fart.gif

[Paul T. Casey]

Some squeal is probably normal, especially with semi-metallic pads. Also, if the pads are replacements, did you use that tube of anti-squeal they sold you. I've seen many back yard mechanics skip the anti-squeal step, then wonder why tha brakes make all that noise. There's a reason they invented this stuff.

[RF Overlord]

Deal is...they're starting to scream something awful when I'm slowing down, even slightly depressed (not fully though). I wonder if anyone can tell me what I should expect to hear from the wrench.

In no particular order:

1. ^^^what Paul T. Casey said^^^
2. Pads worn down to the rivets.
3. Something lodged between a pad and the caliper or rotor
4. Badly scored or overheated rotors
5. Stuck caliper

[Ross]

I always put a good coat of bearing grease on my pads and rotors and they never squeal! :lol: :eek: :nono: :banned:

[woaface]

There are 37350 or so miles on the car. I have over heated the rotors once or twice, but they start talkin to me 2 to 3 minutes into driving after one or two very light stops.
I don't have original pads (the pads have 10,000 miles on them? they've been screamin the whole time) the rotors have been rotated...no they never gave me anti-squeel stuff. I don't even know what it means to get rotors cut, so that's never happened. Pads shouldn't be worn down, I had it up for an oil change last week and the guy said they had at least 20,000 miles left on them, and when I looked at them, they appeared to be 2 or 3 inches thick. And RF...I'd be willing to bet on those last three...
3. Something lodged between a pad and the caliper or rotor
4. Badly scored or overheated rotors
5. Stuck caliper

If I'm not sick later (and I don't think I will be...stupid ******in french fries and jack in the crack) I'll take it up there and tell them to change and flush the coolant and check everything in the front from right to left rim.

I forgot to add, if you ever have stepped on an old wooden floor...that's what it sounds like when I take any kind of tight and go over any kind of bump, small or large.

A couple of weeks ago, someone stopped in front of me, but I was looking off to my left because someone had jumpped out at me from there...I tapped the girl in front of me, luckily it was a friend who didnt care and there was no damage to either car. I absolutly slammed on brakes, the car about stood on it's headlights.

I'm going to go sleep by the toilet now...:bigcry:

[Ross]

Pepto Bismol! Pepto Bismol!

[Paul T. Casey]

You have to buy the anti-squeal, pretty cheap stuff, maybe 79 cents. It goes on the surface between the pads and caliper, not the rotor. I'm betting this is at least 95% of your noise. Also, where are you getting that 2 - 3" measurement. The pads are measured from the mating surface (where it sticks to the part you shove into the caliper, to the top of the lining (the stuff that rubs on the rotor to make you stop.

[Paul T. Casey]

I'd venture that a stuck caliper is the least likely of your choices. If it is, drive for 25 or so miles, smoke should be coming from the affect brake/wheel. If you do have a stuck caliper, then you've also overheated the rotor, and maybe even warpped the caliper itself.

[GarageMahal]

I forgot to add, if you ever have stepped on an old wooden floor...that's what it sounds like when I take any kind of tight and go over any kind of bump, small or large.
This sounds like it may be the bushings.

jta

[woaface]

I'm feeling better after taking 3 tbs of pepto bismal. I'll take it up later today and get anti-squeel stuff on it. No smoke is coming out. The 2 to 3inch measurement is what it looked like (looked like key word) on the rear brakes....just the pad itself.

Bushings? My dad had some replaced on his Villager because they were completely shot. Mine don't feel or sound like what his did. We had to drive back from Charlotte with them all messed up. But being it's a different car and different suspension and different drive...that was the first thing I thought about.

Anyways, my mom has the car now so I'm going to watch Fox News and CMT for a while...ah, great entertainment:lol:

[TripleTransAm]

I'd venture that a stuck caliper is the least likely of your choices. If it is, drive for 25 or so miles, smoke should be coming from the affect brake/wheel. If you do have a stuck caliper, then you've also overheated the rotor, and maybe even warpped the caliper itself.
Paul speaks the truth. Had the passenger's side caliper seize up on me on the '85 Parisienne on the way back from church one day in the early 90s. Started as a slight pull, progressing to a hard drag within 10 minutes, progressing to billowing smoke within 5 more minutes. 5 minutes later there was one p*ssed off guy in his best Sunday clothes standing by the side of the car, swearing in Portuguese at the smoking rotor/caliper. I had to wait about 10 minutes before I could make it home (only 5 minutes left in my trip anyway).

One VERY rare possibility, but possible nonetheless, is a rotor that has worn through rust. In this case, the actual diameter of the rotor shrinks through corrosion of the edges... eventually, the pad ends up overlapping the edge of the rotor, resulting in a fine edge on the pad that wears at 90 degrees to the rotor surface. No other alternative but to replace the rotor in this case. Happened to my '85 Civic, because of the 6 months of disuse while I had my F-cars out.

[Paul T. Casey]

I had one get stuck on an old station wago once, 20 mile trip took 3 hours. Drive a little way, touch brakes, seize right front wheel, stop, jack car, remove wheel, free up stuck caliper, replace wheel, drive a little way, touch brake....... It's amazing how often we use the brake when we drive.

[woaface]

Took it in today. I asked all the questions and it came down to...the brakes are crappy. So when they die in 20,000 or so miles, I'll get some real nice ones.

Also, last time Jiffy Lube changed out my coolant, they didn't flush it, and they put too much water in the system. Whoo! It was dirty.

[TripleTransAm]

I had one get stuck on an old station wago once, 20 mile trip took 3 hours. Drive a little way, touch brakes, seize right front wheel, stop, jack car, remove wheel, free up stuck caliper, replace wheel, drive a little way, touch brake....... It's amazing how often we use the brake when we drive.


:lol: Good one.

Hey, coincidence that this was discussed today... on my way home from picking up my little boy at my parents', we came up behind this little 80s rinky dink import (kind of Chevette-looking, must have been a Suzuki Forsa or something like that). Bad smell of something burning begins to enter my cabin. So I pull out to pass... as I pass the poor dude, his driver's front rotor is GLOWING RED! Now, it's close to 7 pm so it's dark out... what a cool show!

I did alert him to the situation, seems he knew something was up with that brake. No *****, Sherlock...

[woaface]

:lol: Good one.

Hey, coincidence that this was discussed today... on my way home from picking up my little boy at my parents', we came up behind this little 80s rinky dink import (kind of Chevette-looking, must have been a Suzuki Forsa or something like that). Bad smell of something burning begins to enter my cabin. So I pull out to pass... as I pass the poor dude, his driver's front rotor is GLOWING RED! Now, it's close to 7 pm so it's dark out... what a cool show!

I did alert him to the situation, seems he knew something was up with that brake. No *****, Sherlock...:lol: keep diggin watson! Nice...

[Petrograde]

hey Woa...

I wonder if the brake mods sold by some of our vendors would fit your GM? :up: :rock:

Tom

[woaface]

hey Woa...

I wonder if the brake mods sold by some of our vendors would fit your GM? :up: :rock:

Tom
As long as they can fit inside some 16inch rims!:D I'm pimped out in that stuff...

[Krytin]

If you have not cut the rotors - had them turned on a brake lathe to true the wear surface in 37k miles, I'd say is past due! Worn, glazed and/or warped rotors will do everything you have described! The turn-in noise could be wheel bearings as well. I've been doing brake jobs on cars and trucks for 25 years now and many times when I don't resurface the drums or rotors I get them ruturned for noise/pedal pulsation.

Lately, most high quality disc brake pads come with shims rivited or glued to the pad to prevent squeel - if they don't - CRC makes a nice anti-squeel called "Disc Brake Quiet" in an aerosol (Permatex has a similar product).

Good luck on the repairs!

[woaface]

If you have not cut the rotors - had them turned on a brake lathe to true the wear surface in 37k miles, I'd say is past due! Worn, glazed and/or warped rotors will do everything you have described! The turn-in noise could be wheel bearings as well. I've been doing brake jobs on cars and trucks for 25 years now and many times when I don't resurface the drums or rotors I get them ruturned for noise/pedal pulsation.

Lately, most high quality disc brake pads come with shims rivited or glued to the pad to prevent squeel - if they don't - CRC makes a nice anti-squeel called "Disc Brake Quiet" in an aerosol (Permatex has a similar product).

Good luck on the repairs!
Have had all that done in the last 10k.

I've learned two things about my car in the last 3 weeks.
1.)If I want to really go, I don't need to stab the pedal to the floor. Instead 3/4 of the way and I get the same pick up/downshift(if I'm already moving)/speed and a lot less traction loss if I'm standing.
2.) If I really need to stop really quickly, I don't need to push the brake in but 3/4 of the way in. By doing this, it stops more quickly, and I think this is because the pedal doesn't push back against my foot. (I neve rgot the pushing back thing but at least it's solved without better parts)

I'm a work in progress,

One thing I learned the hard way...The car has faster starts by rolling at a stop light instead of standing there and then stabbing the pedal at green. I lost a small battle against a Honda CRV doin that.:shake: