Brake Fluid

[Rockettman]

This is probably a stupid question - but I'm allowed one a day...

The manual calls for "High Performance DOT3".

My local Canadian Tire Store has "Prestone DOT 3 - Synthetic".

Are these the same thing, or does Ford have an actual High Performance one that I should be using?

Thanks everyone.

[fastblackmerc]

DOT 3 is DOT 3... there is a minimum spec that determines the DOT #.

I'd just get a name brand DOT 3 brake fluid.

The best is DOT 5.... but you'll have to flush the system with alcohol to get rid of all the DOT 3 before you go to DOT 5 and even then you may have issues with seals since the chemical composition of the different DOT# vary and using a different DOT# my cause the seals to fail.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

[Rockettman]

That's an interesting read.

I will admit...I have never changed the fluid on any of my cars. Ever!).

[Rockettman]

How much DOT 3 fluid will I need when replacing my lines to TCE's SS lines?

What size bottle should I buy? I have a choice of: 1/2 quart / 1 quart / 4 quart bottles.

[ctrlraven]

Have you ever bled your brakes before on the MM?

[Rockettman]

No not on the Maruader.

[ctrlraven]

I would probably pick up like at least 3 quarts and then do a full bleed job. I use Prestone Synthetic DOT 4.

[Rockettman]

Wow that's allot...but ok thanks. Will get the 4 quart bottle.
If I'm using the hand-held pump (no assistant available); is there any "trick / tips" for doing it on this car? Is it like any car I've done in the past?
(Again...I'm replacing the hoses).

[ctrlraven]

I always buy a little extra cause you don't want to run out in the middle of doing everything. lol I've never used the hand pump, I always have a second person helping me. I'm not sure if the TCE hoses are labeled for FL, FR, RL and RR. When I got my Goodridge ones years ago I accidentally had the front ones on the wrong side and over time noticed the one hose had a rubbing spot in it. If they aren't marked then take the time to make sure which goes where, fronts will be longer though.

[Rockettman]

Thanks Chris.
:beer:

[tbone]

I have this unit. Cheap, and works great. No second man needed.

http://findnsave.clintonherald.com/Product/1835441/Brake-Bleeding-Kit

http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/001/766/046/trimmed/1766416_14596046_trimmed.jpg

I used 2 quarts and had it running clean.

[O3 pharoh]

Wow that's allot...but ok thanks. Will get the 4 quart bottle.
If I'm using the hand-held pump (no assistant available); is there any "trick / tips" for doing it on this car? Is it like any car I've done in the past?
(Again...I'm replacing the hoses).

I just went through a hectic bleed job when replacing tce lines. What I found useful and successful was bleeding in sequence. Right rear, left rear, front right, front left. I know some have had no issues but when I hit issues I did it this way and found a lot of air our of right rear. I also had to run the car while bleeding to help. Hopefully this wont be necessary, but if it troubles you maybe you have a head start. Good luck. Lines are freaking awesome!

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

[Rockettman]

I just went through a hectic bleed job when replacing tce lines. What I found useful and successful was bleeding in sequence. Right rear, left rear, front right, front left. I know some have had no issues but when I hit issues I did it this way and found a lot of air our of right rear. I also had to run the car while bleeding to help. Hopefully this wont be necessary, but if it troubles you maybe you have a head start. Good luck. Lines are freaking awesome!

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks. I was also going to do this as you did too.

[ctrlraven]

Also remember when finished to pump up the brakes before even taking it out of park if you start it up.

[fastblackmerc]

I just gravity my fronts when I installed the TCE upgrade.

[Rockettman]

I just gravity my fronts when I installed the TCE upgrade.
Ok..that term I don't know.
Jim you're throwing new forks into this now ;):D
Is that just the regular bleed procedure? (I did mention I'm by myself on this one).

[Todd TCE]

Simply opening the bleeder after installing the hoses.

The calipers will fill up again after the hoses are installed and the air is purged from the bleeder fitting. You're doing the same thing by pumping, sucking or pressure bleeding. Just doing it quicker. The fluid in the reservoir will simply fill up what's under it and so long as you keep it topped off no air will get into the system. Air will not travel 'up' the hose so long as there's a steady flow of fluid draining from it.

[ctrlraven]

Simply opening the bleeder after installing the hoses.

The calipers will fill up again after the hoses are installed and the air is purged from the bleeder fitting. You're doing the same thing by pumping, sucking or pressure bleeding. Just doing it quicker. The fluid in the reservoir will simply fill up what's under it and so long as you keep it topped off no air will get into the system. Air will not travel 'up' the hose so long as there's a steady flow of fluid draining from it.

Is your hose kit labeled for which hose goes where?

[Todd TCE]

Yes it is, although it's pretty obvious as one is quite a bit longer.

[ctrlraven]

Yes it is, although it's pretty obvious as one is quite a bit longer.
Well yeah but wasn't sure if marked from Left to Right.

[Todd TCE]

There is no more R and L hose. Universal.

Simple enough: match this up to what you remove:

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/images/Marauder%20Hoses.jpg

[fastblackmerc]

Simply opening the bleeder after installing the hoses.

The calipers will fill up again after the hoses are installed and the air is purged from the bleeder fitting. You're doing the same thing by pumping, sucking or pressure bleeding. Just doing it quicker. The fluid in the reservoir will simply fill up what's under it and so long as you keep it topped off no air will get into the system. Air will not travel 'up' the hose so long as there's a steady flow of fluid draining from it.

It's not the fastest way, but if your one person doing the job it works fine.

[ctrlraven]

There is no more R and L hose. Universal.

Simple enough: match this up to what you remove:

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/images/Marauder%20Hoses.jpg
Gotcha. The Goodridge/KVR kit I got years ago already had the brackets on the hoses.

[Mebot]

Ok..that term I don't know.
Jim you're throwing new forks into this now ;):D
Is that just the regular bleed procedure? (I did mention I'm by myself on this one).


Sorry to bump an old thread here.

Barry, did you ever bleed your brakes and install your SS lines? How did it go? I am looking to do mine here in a couple weeks and I'm researching all these DIY threads now. thanks!

[fastblackmerc]

Sorry to bump an old thread here.

Barry, did you ever bleed your brakes and install your SS lines? How did it go? I am looking to do mine here in a couple weeks and I'm researching all these DIY threads now. thanks!

This is how I'd do it:


Siphon out all the old dirty brake fluid from the master cylinder, an old turkey baster works well... better yet get new one from the dollar store. DO NOT USE THE BASTER FOR ANYTHING ELSE... ESPECIALLY FOOD PREPARATION!!!!!
Fill the master cylinder with new fresh clean fluid.
Swap out the hoses - checking the master cylinder after each hose is swapped. Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!
Starting at the right rear wheel, crack the bleeder screw on the caliper, put a tight fitting hose over the bleeder (aquarium air hose works well), put the other end in a bottle and let it drain until you get clean fluid from the bleeder screw
Close the bleeder screw
Top off the mater cylinder
Do the same to the left rear, right front and left front. Topping off the master cylinder after each caliper is bled
Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!
Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!
Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!


Use DOT3 brake fluid. I'd get a quart just in case.


BTW..... Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!

[Mebot]

This is how I'd do it:


Siphon out all the old dirty brake fluid from the master cylinder, an old turkey baster works well... better yet get new one from the dollar store. DO NOT USE THE BASTER FOR ANYTHING ELSE... ESPECIALLY FOOD PREPARATION!!!!!
Fill the master cylinder with new fresh clean fluid.
Swap out the hoses - checking the master cylinder after each hose is swapped. Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!
Starting at the right rear wheel, crack the bleeder screw on the caliper, put a tight fitting hose over the bleeder (aquarium air hose works well), put the other end in a bottle and let it drain until you get clean fluid from the bleeder screw
Close the bleeder screw
Top off the mater cylinder
Do the same to the left rear, right front and left front. Topping off the master cylinder after each caliper is bled
Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!
Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!
Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!


Use DOT3 brake fluid. I'd get a quart just in case.


BTW..... Make sure the master cylinder NEVER goes dry!

Sweet, thanks Jim. This sounds pretty straight-forward. What about pumping the brakes to bleed the old fluid out? I know you mentioned Gravity..

Also do you recommend lifting one side of the car or is it ok putting all four sides up on jack stands?

[fastblackmerc]

Sweet, thanks Jim. This sounds pretty straight-forward. What about pumping the brakes to bleed the old fluid out? I know you mentioned Gravity..

Also do you recommend lifting one side of the car or is it ok putting all four sides up on jack stands?

Pumping the brakes is OK but..... you need to keep the end of the hose submerged in brake fluid so you don't suck and air into the system and you need to check the master cylinder with more frequency since it will drain faster.

Doesn't matter if all four wheels are off the ground or not. Whatever is comfortable for you.

The added benefit is you are changing all the brake fluid.

Good youtube video.........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs

[MOTOWN]

Good video! thats how i always did it at home.

[Mebot]

thanks for the video tip! Now i need to buy some pads!

[ctrlraven]

When I replaced my brake master cylinder, my mechanic bleed the system the old way, then hooked up his snap-on scan tool to cycle the abs pump method and then did the old way again.

[fastblackmerc]

When I replaced my brake master cylinder, my mechanic bleed the system the old way, then hooked up his snap-on scan tool to cycle the abs pump method and then did the old way again.

If you are careful you don't need to cycle the ABS pump.

[Rockettman]

Hi "Mebot" (Ryan); I unfortuately have not got around to replacing the hoses yet.
(Last year was a very tough year for me; so not much was done with the car at all).
Sorry for the late reply.

[Mebot]

Hi "Mebot" (Ryan); I unfortuately have not got around to replacing the hoses yet.
(Last year was a very tough year for me; so not much was done with the car at all).
Sorry for the late reply.

Hi Barry thanks for the reply and no worries. I replaced the brakes and lines last summer and it was a fairly easy project. I hope things turn around for you

[Logizyme]

DOT 3 is DOT 3... there is a minimum spec that determines the DOT #.

I'd just get a name brand DOT 3 brake fluid.

The best is DOT 5.... but you'll have to flush the system with alcohol to get rid of all the DOT 3 before you go to DOT 5 and even then you may have issues with seals since the chemical composition of the different DOT# vary and using a different DOT# my cause the seals to fail.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

Please no one attempt to switch to DOT5!

DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 are Glycol based, DOT4 has higher temp and moisture tolerances than DOT3, and DOT5.1 higher than DOT4. 3/4/5.1 are hygroscopic and will function as intended in our brake system.

DOT5 is silicone based, functions differently than 3/4/5.1. DOT 5 is hydrophobic. Silicone based DOT5 is typically used in industrial and military applications, as it has a more stable viscosity in a large variety of tempuratures. The two major problems with attempting to use DOT5/silicone based brake fluid in a system designed for DOT3/4/5.1 is that the rapid vibration and agitation of the ABS(when activated) will cause silicone based brake fluids to loose their hydraulic properties, and there is no way to bleed water from the brake system, which will cause excessive corrosion and reduced hydraulic effectiveness.

Please thank the United States Department of Transportation for making Glycol/Silicone based fluids so confusing by labling Glycol 3/4/5.1 and silicone 5. Allot of sense went into that.

Brake fluid is marketed in allot of ways, Super DOT4 generally means the boiling point is much higher than DOT4 spec, there are also low viscosity brake fluids, such as Ford's DOT4LV that they use in newer applications(not recomended for our application). Generally your parts stores will not carry DOT5.1, I would suggest getting a premium DOT4, or DOT4 super, and flushing the system.

DOT3/4/5.1 can be mixed, but I would do my best to flush the entire system if switching to a new brake fluid.