T242 Install – My Solution To The Trilogy Install Knock Sensor Issue

[MyBlackBeasts]

After doing a lot of reading before starting the install of T242, I was in agreement with the consensus that relocating the knock sensor to the back of the head was not the best idea – picking up cam vibes, etc. I also did not want the sensor disabled in the tune.

After doing the disassembly I was staring at the valley thinking when it occurred to me that the best location for the sensor was where Ford designed it to be. There was plenty of room under the lower intake. Here is what I came up with:

Tools Required:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Tools.jpg

The install manual wants you to remove 3/16" of the sensor mount bosses. I found standing in the engine bay the easiest way to complete this task:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Inthebay.jpg

Using a pencil & depth guage mark a line around the bosses at the required 3/16". Then using an air cut off wheel with 1/16 cutting wheel, slice the required piece of the boss off just like a meat slicer:
Before
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Beforebossslice.jpg
After
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Afterbossslice.jpg

You will now have 2 slices of the boss, use 1 as a template to mark the curve of the boss on a 1/2" aluminum spacer. I used an old alternator spacer in my bucket of junk parts:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Template.jpg

Using a 90* air drill (air works best, electric is too large for the work area) drill a hole at 90* to the OEM bolt hole for the sensor (you will need shorty bits for this). You want the center of the hole you are drilling to intersect the bottom plane of the OEM hole, this will put the sensor just below the lower intake. The passenger side sensor I located slightly to the back of the boss as the casting was in the way if centered and this also located the sensor away from the rib on the bottom of the lower intake. Tap your new hole (M8x1.25 I think it was) to reuse the OEM bolt. Mix some JB Weld and coat the side of the boss and the curved side of your customized spacer. Slide OEM bolt thru the sensor, thru the spacer and in to your new bolt hole & tighten down. Now use some of the JB Weld to fill in the joint between the spacer & boss. Put a skim coat of antiseize on the bolt where it passes thru the spacer to prevent the JB weld from adhering to it, use blue Loctite on threads where the bolt threads in to the boss.

Here is the final result:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Final2.jpg
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Final1.jpg

I think this would work for the engines with dual sensors if you use a low profile head bolt and do some manipulating of the coolant tube curve in the valley.

Worked great, runs great! :burnout:

[DOOM]

Good write up!

[MOTOWN]

Good idea!

[Spectragod]

An alternative would be to use Duramix epoxy to hold them in place.

[justbob]

Hopefully the Eaton won't make it constantly pull timing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MyBlackBeasts]

An alternative would be to use Duramix epoxy to hold them in place.

Have not used that product. Will research it. I wanted to make the sensor metal to metal contact for vibe transfer and also allow it to be removed like OEM.

Always interested in new stuff.

Thanks! :D

[Dr Caleb]

Very cool!

I might have to pop my intakes off and re-do it in the spring!

[boatmangc]

Very Nice! Good idea.

[Spectragod]

Have not used that product. Will research it. I wanted to make the sensor metal to metal contact for vibe transfer and also allow it to be removed like OEM.

Always interested in new stuff.

Thanks! :D

Getting it apart may be an issue, you can glue rocks together with this stuff. I have never had anything come apart that I used this on.

[Dennis Reinhart]

After doing a lot of reading before starting the install of T242, I was in agreement with the consensus that relocating the knock sensor to the back of the head was not the best idea – picking up cam vibes, etc. I also did not want the sensor disabled in the tune.

After doing the disassembly I was staring at the valley thinking when it occurred to me that the best location for the sensor was where Ford designed it to be. There was plenty of room under the lower intake. Here is what I came up with:

Tools Required:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Tools.jpg

The install manual wants you to remove 3/16" of the sensor mount bosses. I found standing in the engine bay the easiest way to complete this task:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Inthebay.jpg

Using a pencil & depth guage mark a line around the bosses at the required 3/16". Then using an air cut off wheel with 1/16 cutting wheel, slice the required piece of the boss off just like a meat slicer:
Before
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Beforebossslice.jpg
After
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Afterbossslice.jpg

You will now have 2 slices of the boss, use 1 as a template to mark the curve of the boss on a 1/2" aluminum spacer. I used an old alternator spacer in my bucket of junk parts:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Template.jpg

Using a 90* air drill (air works best, electric is too large for the work area) drill a hole at 90* to the OEM bolt hole for the sensor (you will need shorty bits for this). You want the center of the hole you are drilling to intersect the bottom plane of the OEM hole, this will put the sensor just below the lower intake. The passenger side sensor I located slightly to the back of the boss as the casting was in the way if centered and this also located the sensor away from the rib on the bottom of the lower intake. Tap your new hole (M8x1.25 I think it was) to reuse the OEM bolt. Mix some JB Weld and coat the side of the boss and the curved side of your customized spacer. Slide OEM bolt thru the sensor, thru the spacer and in to your new bolt hole & tighten down. Now use some of the JB Weld to fill in the joint between the spacer & boss. Put a skim coat of antiseize on the bolt where it passes thru the spacer to prevent the JB weld from adhering to it, use blue Loctite on threads where the bolt threads in to the boss.

Here is the final result:
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Final2.jpg
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g443/MyBlackBeasts/Final1.jpg

I think this would work for the engines with dual sensors if you use a low profile head bolt and do some manipulating of the coolant tube curve in the valley.

Worked great, runs great! :burnout:

It is a geat idea, the proof will come when data loging the knock sensor whilie on the dyno and I gladd your cooling kit worked out.

[MyBlackBeasts]

It is a great idea, the proof will come when data loging the knock sensor while on the dyno

Thanks Dennis.

Probably won't get it on any dyno till next year so we'll see then.

Hope the family medical emergency resolved in a good way.