Diff Cover

[Comin' in Hot]

I'm about to order parts for my 31 spline conversion and I'm going to do a 4.56 gear swap at the same time. The only thing that I need to decide yet is what differential cover to buy. I like the thought of the bearing load caps, but when have to take this out on the highway for extended periods I like the cooling fins and I can't decide.

What are your thoughts? (please no stupid comments like 4.56s are overkill)

I have two choices:

First - the Ford Racing M-4033-G2 with the built in bearing cap load bolts

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/photos/M-4033-G2-2.jpg

Second - The Ford Racing M-4033-K with the cooling fins


http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/397/397-M-4033-K.jpg

[MOTOWN]

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/sims36/20120416_175036.jpg

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/sims36/mailk.jpg

[MOTOWN]

And it holds 3 xtra quarts!

[Curless]

The Ford racing one is the only one that will actually increase the structural strength of your rear diff. I have used ones like these for years on 7.5 GM rear ends and they work great! They average 33% increase in strength. Not to mention the drain and fill holes it gives you.

[DOOM]

I'm about to order parts for my 31 spline conversion and I'm going to do a 4.56 gear swap at the same time. The only thing that I need to decide yet is what differential cover to buy. I like the thought of the bearing load caps, but when have to take this out on the highway for extended periods I like the cooling fins and I can't decide.

What are your thoughts? (please no stupid comments like 4.56s are overkill)

I have two choices:

First - the Ford Racing M-4033-G2 with the built in bearing cap load bolts

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/photos/M-4033-G2-2.jpg

Second - The Ford Racing M-4033-K with the cooling fins


http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/397/397-M-4033-K.jpg



I like the first one!

And you're going to love those gears! :up:

[LANDY]

The top one gets my vote. Are the 4.56 going on a centri or PD blower?

[Mr. Man]

4.56 gears OMG that's crazy:eek:................:D. I like the first one too. How hot does the gear oil actually get? Will the 4.56 create more heat than the OEM's? Might help you decide.

I also was looking at the Mag-Hytec cover and trans pan. They hold more fluids and have a magnetic dipstick. I believe they both also have a 1/8" NPT plug for a sending unit if you choose to monitor your temps. Decisions, decisions.:)

[Comin' in Hot]

The top one gets my vote. Are the 4.56 going on a centri or PD blower?

Vortech S-trim, 4.30s now, I just want to make sure it gets off the line :burnout:

[Comin' in Hot]

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/sims36/20120416_175036.jpg

http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af324/sims36/mailk.jpg

I was looking at them, but I refuse to pay $250 for a cover, it's about 100 more than I want to spend.

[MOTOWN]

Yeah mines was a gift, cant blame you on the price! i like the first cover as well

[RF Overlord]

I have the first one (with the bearing cap bumpers) on The Blackbird and on Phoebe. It's overkill on Phoebe but I got it for a really good price and installed for free.

[screamn]

I went with the TA Performance:

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1806

Looks the same as the Ford Racing but I got mine for a little less than the Ford one.

[Chi Stallion]

I went with the TA Performance:

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1806

Looks the same as the Ford Racing but I got mine for a little less than the Ford one.+1 Cant go wrong with the TA Girdle and Stud kit.

[Curless]

I went with the TA Performance:

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1806

Looks the same as the Ford Racing but I got mine for a little less than the Ford one.

T/A Is who started it all back in the day for Grand Nationals. Thats where I get mine from.

[ctrlraven]

+1 Cant go wrong with the TA Girdle and Stud kit.

I have a TA girdle and FRPP stud kit on mine.

[Krytin]

W/4.56 gears I would lean toward the cover w/cap girdle. The lower gear ratio will allow for faster power build-up. If you are drag racing the car (or driving it like you would if you were drag racing) thy extra support for the diff will be a good thing!

[marauder410]

i bought my car and months later noticed that i have the firdt cover on mine as weel the ford racing.. bu idk why bec when changed the fluids i notcied i still have thr stock rear end :confused:

[Blk04MM]

another 4.56 gear! my mm owner gave me a 4.30 gear but i want 4.56 and will be N/A. i will keep the 4.30 on the shelf if i ever want to back down.
i will read more into these girdles you all speak of for my swap

[Comin' in Hot]

I just placed my order with Tousley Ford for 31 spline axles, a 31 spline trac-loc diff with carbon clutches, 4.56 gears, and the stud girdle cover, unreal prices!!! I forgot to order an install kit but I could get that anywhere.

[LANDY]

Vortech S-trim, 4.30s now, I just want to make sure it gets off the line :burnout:
It definatelly will. A torque coonverter will also make it an animal if u dont have one already.

[Comin' in Hot]

I don't have one, but I will when I do stage 2 of my build

[yjmud]

Did you get the special cross pin

[Comin' in Hot]

Did you get the special cross pin

I don't know of one, but I'm thinking I need to find out about it.

[Mr. Man]

I don't know of one, but I'm thinking I need to find out about it.
Don't forget about upgrading you gonculator valving;)

[WhatsUpDOHC]

I just placed my order with Tousley Ford for 31 spline axles, a 31 spline trac-loc diff with carbon clutches, 4.56 gears, and the stud girdle cover, unreal prices!!! I forgot to order an install kit but I could get that anywhere.

Neck snappin' Derek!

Let us know when your first run is going to be.

Mark

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[yjmud]

http://completeoffroad.com/i-122880-notched-cross-pin-8-8-7-8-ford-richmond.html
I had to get one for my jeep

[Jolly Roger]

I went with the TA Performance:

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1806

Looks the same as the Ford Racing but I got mine for a little less than the Ford one.

IIRC TA Performance makes them for Ford under sub-contract.
I paid a little extra for the Ford Racing logo.
Some time ago a member did a cool thing.
Had his machined to say Mercury Marauder.;)

[Comin' in Hot]

Look what arrived today, I'm getting excited!!!!!
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/4579D012-4321-4164-A38F-1BDAA9DBFF20-230-0000000C0548BC9C.jpg

[GreekGod]

You should also replace the 4 cap bolts with the studs kit. I replaced the cover bolts with stainless socket head cap-screws from Fastenal.

[CWright]

Went with 31's a few days ago. I saw the diff cover you posted up and decided to go with it. I like it!

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/10-28-12_002.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

[Comin' in Hot]

Most of my parts are here, I'm still deciding what to do about the cross shaft, get a notched one or trim a few of the inner ring gear teeth and I need to get some misc. parts

[babbage]

Third: the trick flow girdle that I have has BOTH cooling fins, bearing cap supports plus mag drain plug and seperate fill plug. pic in sig!

Break em in carefully - after 10 mins of first drive cover will be hot enough to burn your hand..

[MOTOWN]

Most of my parts are here, I'm still deciding what to do about the cross shaft, get a notched one or trim a few of the inner ring gear teeth and I need to get some misc. parts

Get yourself a notched cross shaft pin, if you trim the ring gear your compromising the gear/material after its been heat treated, and your voiding your warranty should you need to use it in the future

[Comin' in Hot]

Get yourself a notched cross shaft pin, if you trim the ring gear your compromising the gear/material after its been heat treated, and your voiding your warranty should you need to use it in the future

I'm just hesitant because its what broke in half in my trilogy

[MOTOWN]

I'm just hesitant because its what broke in half in my trilogy

I feel your pain, this is my only concern when using 4:56 gears! but a good notched pin should be fine

[Comin' in Hot]

I feel your pain, this is my only concern when using 4:56 gears! but a good notched pin should be fine

Who makes a good one, do you have a part #?

[MOTOWN]

Who makes a good one, do you have a part #?

I know Richmond gear does, let me check for a part #

[Comin' in Hot]

I saw they have two, but I'm not sure which one I need

[MOTOWN]

Heres one on fleabay http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-8-Ford-7-8-diameter-Notched-Cross-Pin-shaft-875-for-86-and-newer-/120838630573?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c228b2cad&vxp=mtr

Part# RG 80-0279

[MOTOWN]

Your running 31 spline axles correct? just fyi 28 splines uses 3/4" pin, and the 31 splines uses 7/8" pin

[justbob]

Your running 31 spline axles correct? just fyi 28 splines uses 3/4" pin, and the 31 splines uses 7/8" pin

Confused? I just swapped in 31's and side gears on Ponyup's car a few months back and didn't run into any issues? Carrier itself different? Splain.


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[MOTOWN]

Confused? I just swapped in 31's and side gears on Ponyup's car a few months back and didn't run into any issues? Carrier itself different? Splain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does ponyup have 4:56 gears? thats when the stock cross pin interferes with the ring gear

On 4:56 gears in the 8.8 you need a 3/4" notched pin with 28 splines, and a 7/8 notched pin with 31 spline

Im not a fan of grinding the ring gear to get a stock cross pin to fit

[justbob]

Lol I thought you were referencing a normal pin. No, IIRC his is still 3.55. That clears it up! :)


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[MOTOWN]

Lol I thought you were referencing a normal pin. No, IIRC his is still 3.55. That clears it up! :)


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Ahhh i see

[Vortech347]

Waste. You will break the axles before the 8.8.

[MOTOWN]

Waste. You will break the axles before the 8.8.

What exactly is a waste?

[Vortech347]

The cover with a girdle

[Baaad GN]

I used pin # 29674666 and it worked great!

[MOTOWN]

The cover with a girdle

Yeah your correct, but they sure do look nice

[Lowndex]

Went with 31's a few days ago. I saw the diff cover you posted up and decided to go with it. I like it!

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/10-28-12_002.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

I purchased the one you have with a 4.10 gear setup. KC says it is very close to that sway bar. Should I be worried?

[Comin' in Hot]

Wow I forgot about this thread. I never used either of the covers, I went with the B&M cover.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/5F287CEA-1DAD-4F1A-88FD-6EB2ADE7B5C6_zpsitslvwyi.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Witman40/media/5F287CEA-1DAD-4F1A-88FD-6EB2ADE7B5C6_zpsitslvwyi.jpg.h tml)

I had to make a bracket for the e-brake cable mounts.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/B71EE8EA-0211-4284-A1A9-C1F332AF2815_zps9fhftrjk.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Witman40/media/B71EE8EA-0211-4284-A1A9-C1F332AF2815_zps9fhftrjk.jpg.h tml)

[daddyusmaximus]

No sway bar? Is this a dragstrip only car?

[Comin' in Hot]

No sway bar? Is this a dragstrip only car?

I didn't have a picture with it installed.

[justbob]

I purchased the one you have with a 4.10 gear setup. KC says it is very close to that sway bar. Should I be worried?



You will need to either trim an inch off the end links and their spacer or order one inch shorter ones. The sway bar will start to rub on the left side but mostly on lowered cars. Using 1" shorter links lowers the middle section enough to clear. I just cut mine down because they were only a couple of month old Energy Suspension ones and couldn't see throwing them away. It fixed me right up though.

I also installed double bolted sway bar bushings and welded a plate to the axle to mount them to. I also added lateral locks on the rear bar, although not needed, I know it won't scoot over and continue to rub.


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[Lowndex]

Lifespeed,

As you designed by suspension system, we have mostly the same suspension and rear end components. Once you go 9.0, so will I with Mike Myer. But for the time being, what say you 'oh Jedi of suspension'?

[Lowndex]

You will need to either trim an inch off the end links and their spacer or order one inch shorter ones. The sway bar will start to rub on the left side but mostly on lowered cars. Using 1" shorter links lowers the middle section enough to clear. I just cut mine down because they were only a couple of month old Energy Suspension ones and couldn't see throwing them away. It fixed me right up though.

I also installed double bolted sway bar bushings and welded a plate to the axle to mount them to. I also added lateral locks on the rear bar, although not needed, I know it won't scoot over and continue to rub.


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Okay, I just emailed KC your comments. Thank you. If you can share pictures, it would help move the work faster.

[jsignorelli]

I have the Ford unit (highly polished)on all of my performance cars. Never had a failure, even when over 700 HP are trying to blow the systems apart at Englishtown's quarter mile.

I installed one on the MM when I added the 4.10 gears, and did the 5.4 stroker kit. Although I only take the MM on road courses, I like the insurance on the rear end.

[justbob]

Okay, I just emailed KC your comments. Thank you. If you can share pictures, it would help move the work faster.



I'll try to get a pic after work. It's really nothing but welding a piece of 3/16" flat stock to the original sway bar mounting point and drilling two holes to add an Energy Suspension bushing that is a two bolt design and not using the Addco one that is supplied and known to squeak.

This also lowers the mounting point an additional 3/16" to further add space between the cover and the bar but not quite enough on mine because of how lowered mine sits. Hence the further need to shorten the links to bring the front of the bar up a tad to essentially lower the middle down to clear the cover.

Nothing worth any kind of effort or over thinking. Less than an hour time on my lift and the cost of scrap metal..


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[lifespeed]

If I remember right you have the tubular rear sway bar which is a larger diameter and slightly different bends to clear the center section. Even the stock cover hits the sway bar when the suspension compresses unless you use shorter sway bar links. I have a post in here with the end link part numbers somewhere but don't have time to fight with the useless search function on this site right now.

To make greasable mounts I drilled and tapped the factory Ford brackets and used Energy Suspension poly inserts. I thought this the most practical, it requires no axle mods.

I suspect the aftermarket cover will only worsen the issues with hitting the sway bar.

[justbob]

From the front:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/acde61b76f6b659ff2feb854485c47 20.jpg
From the rear:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/8bd51a194a3c91728beae6a869326c 94.jpg
From the rear center:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/1021e748cd1f4b62d0dccfea2d3084 28.jpg
Plenty of fingers..
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/b7dd1eb01266a2f178e6d6eecaa1e7 a4.jpg



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[lifespeed]

Different sway bar. Also, isn't the axle hanging in this photo? Compression is where interference happens.

[justbob]

Different sway bar. Also, isn't the axle hanging in this photo? Compression is where interference happens.



No. I didn't feel like raising it. Took the pics on my back. [emoji17]


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[Lowndex]

If I remember right you have the tubular rear sway bar which is a larger diameter and slightly different bends to clear the center section. Even the stock cover hits the sway bar when the suspension compresses unless you use shorter sway bar links. I have a post in here with the end link part numbers somewhere but don't have time to fight with the useless search function on this site right now.

To make greasable mounts I drilled and tapped the factory Ford brackets and used Energy Suspension poly inserts. I thought this the most practical, it requires no axle mods.

I suspect the aftermarket cover will only worsen the issues with hitting the sway bar.

I have a post in here with the end link part numbers somewhere but don't have time to fight with the useless search function on this site right now.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1333336&postcount=38

[Lowndex]

From the front:

Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

Thank you.

[GetMeMyStogie]

The Ford Racing M-4033-K with the cooling fins
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/397/397-M-4033-K.jpg


I went with the B&M cover.
I had to make a bracket for the e-brake cable mounts.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/B71EE8EA-0211-4284-A1A9-C1F332AF2815_zps9fhftrjk.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Witman40/media/B71EE8EA-0211-4284-A1A9-C1F332AF2815_zps9fhftrjk.jpg.h tml)

Looks like the e-brake bracket would work with the M04033-K cover.

Has anyone installed this cover on their MM? I need a replacement and can accept some grinding, but not relocating the sway bar.

[Charlie Costell]

Birdman, I have the same hood. Bought it after seeing yours several years ago. Still get compliments. Did not mean to hijack the thread.

[Svashtar]

From the front:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/acde61b76f6b659ff2feb854485c47 20.jpg
From the rear:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/8bd51a194a3c91728beae6a869326c 94.jpg
From the rear center:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/1021e748cd1f4b62d0dccfea2d3084 28.jpg
Plenty of fingers..
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/b7dd1eb01266a2f178e6d6eecaa1e7 a4.jpg


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Older thread I know but impressive work. Great idea on the stops for the bar, didn't know they made them that big, and never occurred to me the bar could move over that much.

I've always had a little over an inch of clearance between the 1" RSB and TA cover, but occurs to me with the air off it could have been hitting. I hope not, but have to crawl under and check. The Quickor bar is HD and comes with shorter end links, so maybe that helped. (It also has surface rust and yours looks practically polished.)

I like the greasable rear bushings as well.