alternator issue still....

[montyd]

so i thought that my underdrivers were causing my lights to dim at wot. i put a post up here and everyone helped me out and directed me to my alternator. so i called dbelectric and ordered a new one. got it saturday, and threw it on at work today. on my way home tonight it was dark outside and i had the lights on so of course i went wot and same thing lights went dim. ive also noticed(with old alternator also) that when cruising along at 60-70 mph(2000rpm) the the lights in the guages seem to flicker a little at times. any thoughts?

thanks in advance.
Dan

[Blackmobile]

Then take the clutched pulley off and install a regular one.

[fastblackmerc]

Check all the + & - connections. They need to be clean and tight.

[MyBlackBeasts]

so i thought that my underdrivers were causing my lights to dim at wot. i put a post up here and everyone helped me out and directed me to my alternator. so i called dbelectric and ordered a new one. got it saturday, and threw it on at work today. on my way home tonight it was dark outside and i had the lights on so of course i went wot and same thing lights went dim. ive also noticed(with old alternator also) that when cruising along at 60-70 mph(2000rpm) the the lights in the guages seem to flicker a little at times. any thoughts?

thanks in advance.
Dan

Some tunes shut the alt off at WOT which makes the lights dim till you let up on the accel pedal. Are you sure you are not trying to fix something that is not broken? :confused:

[MOTOWN]

This would be a good time for the BIG 3 upgrade!, i also think it would address your problem, i was surprised to see how much corrosion was inside my stock alt charge wire, and battery wires.

[montyd]

big 3 upgrade? the main wire on the alt was extremely clean and the batery terminals are also. ill call brenspeed and ask them if they turn the alt off but that still doesnt explain how the dash and gauge lights flicker a little bit

[MyBlackBeasts]

big 3 upgrade? the main wire on the alt was extremely clean and the batery terminals are also. ill call brenspeed and ask them if they turn the alt off but that still doesnt explain how the dash and gauge lights flicker a little bit

Could be 2 different issues. Check with tune vendor about WOT alt disable to confirm.

[MOTOWN]

big 3 upgrade? the main wire on the alt was extremely clean and the batery terminals are also. ill call brenspeed and ask them if they turn the alt off but that still doesnt explain how the dash and gauge lights flicker a little bit

LOL ok good luck bud

[montyd]

I also just noticed that along with the dash lights flickering (get bright then dull then bright and so on while cruising) the highlights and dash lights dim when i step on the brake also.

[Rockettman]

Sounds like you've got a "shorting" of a wire somewhere in the car.
The lights flickering = periodic grounding (shorting out).
The lights dimming while on the brakes = usually means not enough power from the alternator. Since you've elimiated that issue, it would seem the power off the alternator isn't "getting to where it should be going".

If I'm off base here...please someone else chime in. Help this guy out! We all know how frustrating an electrical issue can be!!!

[montyd]

Ok, ill start checking the car over for loose wires or grounds. Between this and my rear axle problems im pretty frustrated with the car.

[fastblackmerc]

Ok, ill start checking the car over for loose wires or grounds. Between this and my rear axle problems im pretty frustrated with the car.

Frustrating it is... but no thong that can't be fixed.

[montyd]

i know ill get it figured out. i have done nothing but work on the car in the last two months since i bought it, i love driving it. just tired of throwing money at it. im going to vegas for sema show next week so it will probably get put off untill after i get back.

[Spectragod]

Frustrating it is... but no thong that can't be fixed.

Not only does the car have an issue, YOU go throwing a thong into the mix. :D

But really, you need a DVOM to get some type of an idea of whats going on, and, just because the alternator is "new" that doesn't mean it is good.

As I said in the last post you put up, specific voltages from a DVOM as opposed to the volt meter in your dash is the only way to determine what is going on.

[babbage]

I thought even from the factory at WOT the alternator disengages (clutch) to make the acceleration faster. I would check the ground wires. You can add an additional ground to the battery, run it to a spot on the frame or body, sand the metal so it is a clean and shiney - making a good contact for new ground wire.

[EMAS]

I thought even from the factory at WOT the alternator disengages (clutch) to make the acceleration faster. I would check the ground wires. You can add an additional ground to the battery, run it to a spot on the frame or body, sand the metal so it is a clean and shiney - making a good contact for new ground wire.

The clutch pulley does not "disengage" the alternator it allows the alternator to turn faster than the belt. It is an overrunning clutch. The reason for the clutch pulley is so they can use a lower belt tension to reduce drag. The problem with the lower belt tension is that with the AT during WOT shifts the engine RPM drops quicker than the alternator wants to which results in an annoying chirp and increased belt wear. The overrunning clutch allows the alternator to slow down to the belt speed at it's own pace.

Now the PCM does control the alternator's output voltage and that can lower the drag the alternator creates. However the main reason for the PCM controlled voltage regulator is to increase battery life by reducing the alternator's output voltage from one that charges the battery to one that maintains the charge.

[montyd]

i got home a little early tonight so i got the dvom out and checked a couple things. with the car running and headlights on i had 14.3-5 volts at the battery. i changed my gound to the wire on the inner passenger side fender and same voltage. same at the fuse box(i know its a short distance but i figured i might as well check.). i noticed it only has a 550 cold cranking amp battery. im not sure what size it needs to be but that seems small to me. could that cuase the problem? im not sure where else to check voltages but thats what i know so far.

[babbage]

The clutch pulley does not "disengage" the alternator it allows the alternator to turn faster than the belt. It is an overrunning clutch. The reason for the clutch pulley is so they can use a lower belt tension to reduce drag. The problem with the lower belt tension is that with the AT during WOT shifts the engine RPM drops quicker than the alternator wants to which results in an annoying chirp and increased belt wear. The overrunning clutch allows the alternator to slow down to the belt speed at it's own pace.

Now the PCM does control the alternator's output voltage and that can lower the drag the alternator creates. However the main reason for the PCM controlled voltage regulator is to increase battery life by reducing the alternator's output voltage from one that charges the battery to one that maintains the charge.

Thanks for the correction! Good info for sure.


i got home a little early tonight so i got the dvom out and checked a couple things. with the car running and headlights on i had 14.3-5 volts at the battery. i changed my gound to the wire on the inner passenger side fender and same voltage. same at the fuse box(i know its a short distance but i figured i might as well check.). i noticed it only has a 550 cold cranking amp battery. im not sure what size it needs to be but that seems small to me. could that cuase the problem? im not sure where else to check voltages but thats what i know so far.

550 CCA's seems low - what brand? A battery that is on the way out can give strange symptoms to the cars electrical systems. Many on here including me recommend a Motorcraft 850 CCA battery.

[montyd]

Check all the + & - connections. They need to be clean and tight.

so i got bored today at work and started checking wires. my ground from the battery to the timing cover was corroded on the timing cover end. i replaced it, cleaned everything up good to make sure im getting good contact on the fender and on the engine. my mechanic at work that i trust, said on the gm trucks they need a ground from teh engine to the frame because they do the same thing my car is doing. i guess im going to try that next....

[fastblackmerc]

so i got bored today at work and started checking wires. my ground from the battery to the timing cover was corroded on the timing cover end. i replaced it, cleaned everything up good to make sure im getting good contact on the fender and on the engine. my mechanic at work that i trust, said on the gm trucks they need a ground from teh engine to the frame because they do the same thing my car is doing. i guess im going to try that next....

You should have a ground from the engine to the firewall / body. It should be attached to the top of the cam cover. passenger side rear. There are also 1 or 2 grounds near the battery and the underhood relay / fuse box.

[Marauderjack]

However the main reason for the PCM controlled voltage regulator is to increase battery life by reducing the alternator's output voltage from one that charges the battery to one that maintains the charge.

Where'd ya get this information??:confused:

[Spectragod]

i got home a little early tonight so i got the dvom out and checked a couple things. with the car running and headlights on i had 14.3-5 volts at the battery. i changed my gound to the wire on the inner passenger side fender and same voltage. same at the fuse box(i know its a short distance but i figured i might as well check.). i noticed it only has a 550 cold cranking amp battery. im not sure what size it needs to be but that seems small to me. could that cuase the problem? im not sure where else to check voltages but thats what i know so far.

How many volts does it put out under load, how many amps @ idle and amps under load, volts alone will not charge the battery and run the car.

I would also check the battery for state of health, Midtronics makes a tester that will give you this info.

[montyd]

i tested the battery with our tester at work lst week. it tested fine, even under a load. as far as the alternator, what do you mean by under load? i checked it at work today with another dvom just for good measure, the batter was 12.35 volts withthe car off, had 14.35 volts with the car running, and with the headlights on in park i had 14.35 also. i noticed pulling into my neighborhood tonight that the dash lights pulsate the same as my turn signals, i have been watching my guage in the car alot and the voltage seems kinda funny to me, like the new regulator on the new alternator alows it to spike, then drop down to 14 or 13.5. at idle with the headlights off i have around 13 volts. once i turn the headlights on it drops to 12, turn the fogs on it drops to 11.5, step on the brake and it drops to 11.( all the was in gear at idle stopped)im not sure how to check the amperage ??

[Spectragod]

Under load would mean just that, I generally use a 90 amp load to verify operation. If you turned your head lights & fog lights on and voltage dropped below 14 volts, your alternator is junk.

[montyd]

really? man i just put it on last week. i got it from db electric after a member here suggested it

[Spectragod]

really? man i just put it on last week. i got it from db electric after a member here suggested it


I'd call them and tell them that the voltage drops below 12 volts when you turn your headlights on. I'm pretty sure they will warranty it for you.

[montyd]

ok ill definatly do that tomorrow. mybe ill upgrade to the 200 amp model this time. i appreciate your help

[Spectragod]

ok ill definatly do that tomorrow. mybe ill upgrade to the 200 amp model this time. i appreciate your help

I wouldn't bother with the upgrade unless your planning on big audio. I would be more concerned with one that works.

[montyd]

I wouldn't bother with the upgrade unless your planning on big audio. I would be more concerned with one that works.


me too. audio is kinda on the list. but its a ways off. i figured there was a better chance to get a better product with the upgrade. what was the big 3 upgrade that was mentioned early in the thread?

[MOTOWN]

me too. audio is kinda on the list. but its a ways off. i figured there was a better chance to get a better product with the upgrade. what was the big 3 upgrade that was mentioned early in the thread?

Here you go! http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1

[EMAS]

Where'd ya get this information??:confused:

By keeping up with current service info.

Here is a simplified version that covers the basics of the Ford PCM controlled voltage regulator from Napa's tech tips. http://www.napaechlin.com/Ford-PCM%20Controlled%20Charging%20 System/Content.aspx

That is one of the reasons many of us still have or have recently replaced the OE batteries on these cars at 10 years, though the fact that Ford spec'ed out a high quality battery also helps.

[babbage]

By keeping up with current service info.

Here is a simplified version that covers the basics of the Ford PCM controlled voltage regulator from Napa's tech tips. http://www.napaechlin.com/Ford-PCM%20Controlled%20Charging%20 System/Content.aspx

That is one of the reasons many of us still have or have recently replaced the OE batteries on these cars at 10 years, though the fact that Ford spec'ed out a high quality battery also helps.

Thanks again for good the good tech.

What Alternator would you buy EMAS? I'm wondering how long my factory alternator is good for and would rather replace it before it quits on me.

[EMAS]

Thanks again for good the good tech.

What Alternator would you buy EMAS? I'm wondering how long my factory alternator is good for and would rather replace it before it quits on me.

Personally I rebuild my own but if you don't want to do that look for a rebuilder near you and have them rebuild your existing one. Otherwise I'd check and see if NAPA has one in their fully remanufactured line. Their cheap one like the bulk of the "re-man" alternators that you find at parts stores are repaired, ie they fix what ever is wrong with that particular unit or clean up a useable core from the wrecking yard.

How long they last is hard to say. My 92 CV with 190K still has it's original alternator while I had to replace the one in my wife's Taurus at 100K.

[montyd]

the napa brand alternators are really expensive. my cost is right at 300 bucks and retail is close to 525. just sayin