Wheel Bearing...

[airjordan2k8]

Well my rear wheel bearing is messing up so i went to my mechanic to confirm it.. and yes its that and he said he has to remove alot of stuff to change it that will cause my gear fluid to come out.. Question is.. is that all true? dont wanna be paying extra for nothing ya know... and is it ok to drive it like that until saturday?? thanks

[boatmangc]

It's true
Don't take it apart without a new axle
It's bad too


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[airjordan2k8]

So what your saying is to buy a new rear axle?? and thanks

[fastblackmerc]

It's true
Don't take it apart without a new axle
It's bad too


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+1....

If one axle is bad the other will be also.

Good time to install 4.10's. :D

[EMAS]

The mean buy a new axle shaft(s) not an entire axle assembly.

[SC Cheesehead]

Definitely buy two new axles, and depending on how long the bearing has been grinding into the axle shaft, there could be a bunch of metal shavings in your rear end.

If so, that's to take a lot of work to properly flush out th shavings, and depending on damage to other rear end components (gears, clutch packs, etc), you could be looking at more replacement parts; so if he tells you that additional parts are required, ask to see them, but don't be surprised if you're looking at a good-sized repair bill.

[MOTOWN]

I got a set of 28 spline ford oem axles (in perfect condition) if you need em pm me bud!

[justbob]

Bad axle for sure. Although I have yet to personally see both bad in any car, one is always just fine if your on a budget. At minimum you are looking at one axle shaft, one outer axle bearing, one axle seal, gear lube, and friction modifier. Depending on damage done, labor (assuming you are lucky) will run 1-2 hrs on the low end.


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[stevengerard]

if it gets worse you could start loosing fluid through the end of the axles so as everyone has said I would change it ASAP. I'd go with changing just the bad one but both of mine were bad so that's what I did.

[boatmangc]

I replaced both of mine but when I got it apart only the right side was bad, but since I had both, I replaced both.
Most likely when it was apart if I had checked, my clutch packs had to have been damaged too. There was a crapload of metal shavings throughout.
All at just about 40K miles

[Shaijack]

Don't you hate metal shavings in your rear end????
Replace them both.

[boatmangc]

Don't you hate metal shavings in your rear end????
Replace them both.

Beats fiberglass..:lol:

[SC Cheesehead]

I replaced both of mine but when I got it apart only the right side was bad, but since I had both, I replaced both.
Most likely when it was apart if I had checked, my clutch packs had to have been damaged too. There was a crapload of metal shavings throughout.
All at just about 40K miles

Same here, but mine failed around 70K, big +1 on the shavings, IIRC, it took Russ over 3 hours just to get everything cleaned out.

[airjordan2k8]

I got a set of 28 spline ford oem axles (in perfect condition) if you need em pm me bud!
Im going to see what he says when he has it apart.. and if i need them ill get with you thanks

[airjordan2k8]

+1....

If one axle is bad the other will be also.

Good time to install 4.10's. :D
I would do it but mines a daily driver so not sure if that would be a good idea ya know..

[airjordan2k8]

Thank you guys for all the replies, im trying to get my mechanic to do it asap hes only charging me 60 bucks too not bad huh

[lifespeed]

Im going to see what he says when he has it apart.. and if i need them ill get with you thanks

You WILL need axles (notice it is plural - two axles). Do yourself a favor and change axles, all bearings and seals (pinion bearing, seal and crush sleeve) and clutches. If you're anticipating higher horsepower, just replace the entire limited slip with a 31 spline unit and get 31 spline axles instead.

It makes more sense to pay the labor once and replace all the parts and be done with it. If you don't, you'll be back in there in a short time to change the parts you didn't get the first time.

Remember the saying, penny wise, pound foolish. It very much applies here.

[lifespeed]

Thank you guys for all the replies, im trying to get my mechanic to do it asap hes only charging me 60 bucks too not bad huh

How many miles do you have on the car? Why in the world would you think the other bearing and axle is OK? :confused:

[SC Cheesehead]

I would do it but mines a daily driver so not sure if that would be a good idea ya know..

Why is that? :confused:

Lotsa (most?) of the guys here have upgraded to 4.10s with no issues, and a bunch of those are or were DDs.


Thank you guys for all the replies, im trying to get my mechanic to do it asap hes only charging me 60 bucks too not bad huh

Only $60 to change out an axle and clean out a bunch of metal shavings?

Uhhhh, make sure you sock away a few extra bucks, I got a feeling you're going to be spending 'em to do some additional repairs down the road...:shake:

[lifespeed]

Lotsa (most?) of the guys here have upgraded to 4.10s with no issues, and a bunch of those are or were DDs.

I have to admit I'm not much of a fan of 4.10 gears either. The low 1st gear in the 4R75W trans (W is for wide ratio :) ) combined with the 3.55 axle is not bad, especially if you have enough horsepower. Which I don't. Yet.

But gear ratio is kind of a personal preference thing. I like to be able to road trip the car, and taller gears are preferable here. Really, 3.55 is not a tall gear.

[SC Cheesehead]

I have to admit I'm not much of a fan of 4.10 gears either. The low 1st gear in the 4R75W trans (W is for wide ratio :) ) combined with the 3.55 axle is not bad, especially if you have enough horsepower. Which I don't. Yet.

But gear ratio is kind of a personal preference thing. I like to be able to road trip the car, and taller gears are preferable here. Really, 3.55 is not a tall gear.

Try a MM with 4.10s, you'll notice a big difference in responsiveness, and most guys see little difference in mileage with the 4.10s. Also, keep in mind that with the OEM 18 tires, the effective ratio of the 3.55s ends up being a bit taller.

[lifespeed]

Try a MM with 4.10s, you'll notice a big difference in responsiveness, and most guys see little difference in mileage with the 4.10s. Also, keep in mind that with the OEM 18 tires, the effective ratio of the 3.55s ends up being a bit taller.

No doubt the 4.10s are more responsive, especially with a relatively stock engine. As you modify the engine for added horsepower you get to the point where you just overpower the tires in 1st gear anyway. Of course you can switch to slicks and run one heck of a quarter mile time. But that has little meaning driving on the street.

Personal preference.

[SC Cheesehead]

No doubt the 4.10s are more responsive, especially with a relatively stock engine. As you modify the engine for added horsepower you get to the point where you just overpower the tires in 1st gear anyway. Of course you can switch to slicks and run one heck of a quarter mile time. But that has little meaning driving on the street.

Personal preference.


True, that.

I had my 4.10s installed when I was still NA and left them in when I had the Eaton installed, love the extra low end oomph. Actually wouldn't mind going to 4.30s....

[airjordan2k8]

How many miles do you have on the car? Why in the world would you think the other bearing and axle is OK? :confused:
I have 92,234 miles on it now.. and idk i dont know much about cars...:(

[lifespeed]

I have 92,234 miles on it now.. and idk i dont know much about cars...:(

Generally when you have a set (front/back, left/right) of car parts that are expected to wear and need replacement under normal operating conditions, you replace the set together. The rationale is that if one is worn, the other is too. Perhaps not as much, or showing as severe symptoms, but likely still worn.

It is usually more cost-effective from a time and labor standpoint, and ensures that the other un-repaired part doesn't leave you stranded on the side of the road unexpectedly.

[boatmangc]

I just saw my clutch packs tonight, I should have changed them when I did the axles.
It would have saved me money and time now.
Clutch packs are reasonably priced. I had the Ford Racing Carbon Fiber set installed.

[justbob]

You WILL need axles (notice it is plural - two axles). Do yourself a favor and change axles, all bearings and seals (pinion bearing, seal and crush sleeve) and clutches. If you're anticipating higher horsepower, just replace the entire limited slip with a 31 spline unit and get 31 spline axles instead.

It makes more sense to pay the labor once and replace all the parts and be done with it. If you don't, you'll be back in there in a short time to change the parts you didn't get the first time.

Remember the saying, penny wise, pound foolish. It very much applies here.

How many MM axles have you personally replaced?




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[lifespeed]

How many MM axles have you personally replaced?

Back in the days when I had more time than money I did plenty of rear end work on 12-bolt Chevys, which are a very similar design to the 8.8 Ford. I know my way around inside a rear end ;)

But I worked hard and put myself through college, so this time around I paid a good rear end shop to do the job. I did look at the carnage, and yes, one axle was worn more than the other. But they both needed replacing.

I expect I won't have to revisit the axle for another 100K, maybe more. New clutches feel much better too. I love the clutch-type limited slip action and the way it stabilizes the car under acceleration. No Auburn or Eaton will do that!

[justbob]

I only ask because these cars are notorious for chewing up only one axle. The vast majority of my customers (all makes/models) live on a budget and will never treat a car like I do. While I agree on many parts should be replaced in pairs, sometimes we need to consider the labor cost vs. parts cost vs. how it's driven and finally their budget. Most vehicle rotating mass, suspension, tires, ECT wear more on the right side from curbs, majority of salt and objects collecting on the shoulder. While I like to replace in pairs on most parts with my car, i always think a little more on customers vehicles, and not let the OCD take over.
I will always give a true viable option and not push parts. Earlier on you recommended all parts and 31's to a guy who admits not knowing much about cars. Not knowing what his budget is, I wouldn't want to scare the life out of him for only a one to two hour book job is all.


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[lifespeed]

I only ask because these cars are notorious for chewing up only one axle. The vast majority of my customers (all makes/models) live on a budget and will never treat a car like I do. While I agree on many parts should be replaced in pairs, sometimes we need to consider the labor cost vs. parts cost vs. how it's driven and finally their budget. Most vehicle rotating mass, suspension, tires, ECT wear more on the right side from curbs, majority of salt and objects collecting on the shoulder. While I like to replace in pairs on most parts with my car, i always think a little more on customers vehicles, and not let the OCD take over.
I will always give a true viable option and not push parts. Earlier on you recommended all parts and 31's to a guy who admits not knowing much about cars. Not knowing what his budget is, I wouldn't want to scare the life out of him for only a one to two hour book job is all.


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If you're anticipating higher horsepower, just replace the entire limited slip with a 31 spline unit and get 31 spline axles instead.

First, I only mentioned the big axles in the context of possible horsepower upgrades. It is a logical time to consider this.

I understand lack of funds, been there, done that. I learned a lot about doing my own automotive work because of the reality of being young and underpaid.

However, as somebody who does automotive work you are probably well aware that the life of the limited slip clutches is over, and it is a logical time to replace them. Most good rear-end shops will suggest you may as well do the pinion and carrier bearings and seal at this point because it wears too, and will end up being the only 100K items left in the axle at this point. And they will typically even offer a package-deal price on the labor.

What you describe as a viable option, many of us consider a "patch job". If you have no $$ and need to get the car back on the road, what else can you do? You are not wrong to suggest this is an option. But I would be clear it is the last resort, not the most appropriate or cost-effective choice over the long run if funds are available to address the other wear items in the axle.

[lifespeed]

Justbob: did you get the solid or tubular Addco sway bars? Do they (can they?) still use the ball-jointed Ford end links? How do they compare to stock?

[fastblackmerc]

Justbob: did you get the solid or tubular Addco sway bars? Do they (can they?) still use the ball-jointed Ford end links? How do they compare to stock?

Go with the solid bars, IMHO... the Marauder is too heavy for the tubular ones.

They are direct replacement for the OEM bars.

[Mac-MerC]

if it gets worse you could start loosing fluid through the end of the axles so as everyone has said I would change it ASAP. I'd go with changing just the bad one but both of mine were bad so that's what I did.

Like this..... or is this something else happening?......
this started yesterday
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz212/Mac-Merc/IMAG0881.jpg
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz212/Mac-Merc/IMAG0880.jpg

[lifespeed]

Like this..... or is this something else happening?......
this started yesterday

That is a bad axle and bearing. Does it smell like gear oil?

[justbob]

Justbob: did you get the solid or tubular Addco sway bars? Do they (can they?) still use the ball-jointed Ford end links? How do they compare to stock?

Solid bars and yes, same link hook ups. Many members have had bad luck with the addco bushings, so I ended up putting Energy Suspenions front and rear, so far no complaints.
Truthful experience? I expected more, but that is just me with everything and everybody (wasn't hugged much as a kid 😜 ) BUT yes, it is an improvement well worth the cost. I still feel that cutting the front springs years back was one of the best things I have yet to do. The handling improved ten fold and the look is pretty sick as well.


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[lifespeed]

I still feel that cutting the front springs years back was one of the best things I have yet to do. The handling improved ten fold and the look is pretty sick as well.

I have heard this from others as well. How many coils did you remove from the spring (top?), and what did it correspond to in ride height reduction? Any resulting curb or other scrapeage?

[Mac-MerC]

That is a bad axle and bearing. Does it smell like gear oil?

i've never smelt gear oil before but it does smell. goddamn it

[lifespeed]

i've never smelt gear oil before but it does smell. goddamn it

Sadly, this is normal maintenance for any design where the bearing rolls directly on the axle. Ford is not the only mfg to do it this way.

Today, only 3/4 ton trucks get a proper press-fit bearing and race (or floating axles). I don't believe even 1/2 ton pickups have a proper axle setup, BICBW.

[justbob]

I have heard this from others as well. How many coils did you remove from the spring (top?), and what did it correspond to in ride height reduction? Any resulting curb or other scrapeage?

I just did one coil from the top like most here, a few have also done one and a half with good results. Front dropped 5/8" immediately, close to an 1" after a week of driving, 1 1/4" a year later and never settled any more. A true waiting game for results. I have lowered a handful of locals as well, results very on mileage and city/highway use but seem to average about an inch.
As for scrapeage, I did notice curbs seemed to have raised a tad.. Nothing road condition wise except my cut out turn downs scratch every once in a good while.
Basically a very good with no real side effects and still maintain an almost OEM quality ride that is reversible if it's not for you at a cost of new springs. Most of these cars could use new ones anyway.


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[GreekGod]

The only way to properly clean our 8.8" internal axle housing is to completely dis-assemble it and power wash it. Even then, it is difficult to get at the hidden area over the front pinion bearing.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/PalletsMay232012_006.jpg

[airjordan2k8]

UPDATE.. Cars in the shop but no luck on finding the axle nowhere so i had to order one online, ordered it from rockauto.com would have done both but right now i gotta alot of other things that im paying on.. thanks for everyones input on this...