4:10 Gears

[jimlam56]

Well, I'm finally getting off my butt and installing a bunch of parts I've been accumulating over literally years...
Zack and Mac Control Arms
TCE stainless brake lines
and a set of 4:10 gears (Thanks Finster!)
My question is, with 55k on the car is there anything else I should do to the rear end while I have it apart?
This is an 04, so I haven't had any axle issues as with the 03s...
Any comments/advice are appreciated!

[1stMerc]

For future reference, see if there is a part # stamped on the bushings you remove from the oem control arms. There is an issue with finding replacement ones when going to Z&M arms.

[DOOM]

Rebuild kit with the gears. Perfect time to do it.

[jimlam56]

For future reference, see if there is a part # stamped on the bushings you remove from the oem control arms. There is an issue with finding replacement ones when going to Z&M arms.
Do you think the oem bushings are ok with 55k to reuse?

[Rockettman]

I agree with "Doom" above.
If the axels are going to be out anyway; cheap insurance to just throw in new bearings and seals.

[jimlam56]

Rebuild kit with the gears. Perfect time to do it.
Do you have details/part number for the rebuild kit?

[1stMerc]

Do you think the oem bushings are ok with 55k to reuse?

You being in Florida they probably are, just check them. Don't remember how many miles i had before i made the swap Z&K 's, but at 90k mine or starting to go bad.

[DOOM]

Do you have details/part number for the rebuild kit?

Everything you need right here! All FORD PARTS!

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4210-C

[justbob]

Everything you need right here! All FORD PARTS!

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4210-C

Except availability LOL



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[jimlam56]

Except availability LOL



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How about this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-RACING-M-4210-C-RING-AND-PINION-INSTALLATION-KIT-/250870969961

[DOOM]

How about this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-RACING-M-4210-C-RING-AND-PINION-INSTALLATION-KIT-/250870969961

Yup that's it.

[jimlam56]

Thanks, ordered.
What about fluids?

[fastblackmerc]

75w140 Redline fluid

[Vortech347]

Use the 28 spline Carbon Cobra dif kit. Works AWESOME.

[DOOM]

Use the 28 spline Carbon Cobra dif kit. Works AWESOME.

Yes it does!!! :D

I have the 31 spline kit in mine and I'm very happy with it! :burn:

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad47/DOOMIE/DSC00312.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad47/DOOMIE/DSC00311.jpg

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad47/DOOMIE/e682ea58.jpg

:burnout: :burnout:

[jimlam56]

Thanks for all the replies!
Lastly, any tips/comments from those of you that have installed the ss brake lines?

[Rockettman]

I have my TCE SS lines - but haven't had a chance to install them as of yet.

I can say though, that they are a quality product.

[Mr. Man]

Thanks for all the replies!
Lastly, any tips/comments from those of you that have installed the ss brake lines?
You may need to bleed the system a couple of times to get all the air out. :)

[justbob]

Thanks for all the replies!
Lastly, any tips/comments from those of you that have installed the ss brake lines?

One of the easiest things to do to a MM. Very nice kit and a perfect fit. Only thing is to make double sure the lines don't rub on any parts and that they are positioned so they don't get stretched on full lock to lock steering. Then simply bleed with a one man bleeder or much quicker with a friends help.


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[GetMeMyStogie]

I have my TCE SS lines - but haven't had a chance to install them as of yet.

I can say though, that they are a quality product.

Same story here... we should meet up and do them at the same time :beer:

[GreekGod]

1) solid pinion spacer shim kit (do not use a crush spacer)
2) 31 spline axle shafts
3) Eaton Truetrac differential
4) Dynotech driveshaft: http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

[jimlam56]

Use the 28 spline Carbon Cobra dif kit. Works AWESOME.
I'm not clear what the advantage is of carbon over stock?
Do the clutches really need replacement after 55k?
(Oh yeah, its hit the quarter mile about 25 times and 5 road track outings...)
I'm having zero rear axles issues though, just want to upgrade to 4:10s.
Thanks,
Jim

[justbob]

I'm not clear what the advantage is of carbon over stock?
Do the clutches really need replacement after 55k?
(Oh yeah, its hit the quarter mile about 25 times and 5 road track outings...)
I'm having zero rear axles issues though, just want to upgrade to 4:10s.
Thanks,
Jim

Much grippier contact areas. I average 40,000 a set for OEM (2 now) I'll have to report back on the Cobra's as they aren't even a year old yet. Still, at 40 thou a set, that's pretty damn cheep maintenance for a stock clutch set.. The price difference is so little I figured why not?


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[lifespeed]

1) solid pinion spacer shim kit (do not use a crush spacer)
2) 31 spline axle shafts
3) Eaton Truetrac differential
4) Dynotech driveshaft: http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

Which driveshaft, steel Al or carbon?

[GreekGod]

Which driveshaft, steel Al or carbon?
Aluminum is probably the best value

[lifespeed]

Aluminum is probably the best value

The stock driveshaft is Al. Don't you need something stiffer to address the high speed harmonic issues?

[Baaad GN]

Ya let me see, If I drive 100mph for 2-3 hours maybe I need a driveshaft!

[DOOM]

Ya let me see, If I drive 100mph for 2-3 hours maybe I need a driveshaft!



LOL!!! :rofl:

[justbob]

Complete waste in my opinion. I've done countless burnouts hitting triple digits, plenty of track use, and 92,000 miles of thrill ride. Never once a vibration, never once a leak.


Trans seal is what? $8?
Tear up the tail shaft? $150??

Driveshaft to feel good about maybe damage at a speed you rarely drive? $650?

That sounds like very high insurance.



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[justbob]

Double post.

[lifespeed]

Ya let me see, If I drive 100mph for 2-3 hours maybe I need a driveshaft!

The question was not if you need to do it, but if you're going replace it why would you replace it with another Al unit?

[SC Cheesehead]

The question was not if you need to do it, but if you're going replace it why would you replace it with another Al unit?

The CVPI units are an aluminum metal matrix that are less prone to distortion at high rpm.

Carbon fiber composite driveshafts are definitely superior, but are prolly overkill for most street applications, plus:

Carbon fiber D/S = $600+

Used CVPI MMX D/S < $100

[GreekGod]

The stock driveshaft is Al. Don't you need something stiffer to address the high speed harmonic issues?

The stock driveshaft is a known issue when going from OEM 3.55 to 4.10 gears. A performance aluminum shaft is a common recommended replacement. Shaft whip can destroy the output shaft bushing and a pressure rear oil mod is also good insurance for another known issue.


That's why the Marauder is speed limited to 123MPH

If there are doubters, reference this post from 2003. The Florida Highway Patrol had 3 go bad before going aftermarket:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5163&page=2

============

[IwantmyMMnow!]

So, is it safe for me to assume that the general consensus here is, if you plan on driving above 100mph for sustained periods, upgrade your driveshaft? I've got 4.10s and would like to know, but I do have another question:

What is considered as a 'sustained period'? Is it a one-time measurement or an accumulation of events? Running the Daytona 500, yes upgrade...getting it up to 100+ once a year, no need for upgrade...what's the 'in-between' magic number to constitute an upgrade?

I've had mine up to 100+ 2 or 3 times, 10-15 seconds each, before I had 4.10s installed. The fastest I've run since 4.10s is low 90s (longest stretch about 5 miles). Next year I hope to make some runs down the strip for the first time...would hate to break something my first time out, so would like to know if I need to worry about upgrading my d/s before I make my first run....

[GreekGod]

From the link:

"... the stock shaft reaches critical speed around 123 MPH with 3:55 gears so when you add 4:10's the critical speed drops proportionately, that's why the car is speed limited, now The Metal Matrix Drive shaft is made out of composite metal Matrix, aluminum, which is lighter and twice as strong as the OEM Drive shaft because of this the critical speed is increased making the car safe to drive above 100 MPH especially with 4:10 gears, critical speed is the point where the shaft will actually flex in and out causing a severe drive line vibration, this can break the rear transmission tail shaft as well as shake the mirror off the windshield "

[rayjay]

FWIW, I had my trac lock rebuilt when we did the gears. It didn't need it, but at 60K it was cheap insurance. The parts were not much IIRC and it was apart anyway. I also replaced my axle seals as maintenance as one had already failed. Since I have no plans on going forced induction I stayed with the OEM axles.

[fastblackmerc]

So, is it safe for me to assume that the general consensus here is, if you plan on driving above 100mph for sustained periods, upgrade your driveshaft? I've got 4.10s and would like to know, but I do have another question:

What is considered as a 'sustained period'? Is it a one-time measurement or an accumulation of events? Running the Daytona 500, yes upgrade...getting it up to 100+ once a year, no need for upgrade...what's the 'in-between' magic number to constitute an upgrade?

I've had mine up to 100+ 2 or 3 times, 10-15 seconds each, before I had 4.10s installed. The fastest I've run since 4.10s is low 90s (longest stretch about 5 miles). Next year I hope to make some runs down the strip for the first time...would hate to break something my first time out, so would like to know if I need to worry about upgrading my d/s before I make my first run....

Sustained would be running the Daytona 500.

I've had mine up to 120 - 140 at CMS for a couple of minutes at a time and no problems.

Have made quite a few passes at the strip and no problems either.

[Vortech347]

Ya let me see, If I drive 100mph for 2-3 hours maybe I need a driveshaft!

I do. No issues.

[jimlam56]

Well, I finally got this stuff done.
All I can say is Wow with the difference the 4:10s make!
For the record, Ford no longer sells the control arm bushings seperately.
You have to buy the whole control arm.
Luckily mine were in fine shape to re-use.

[1stMerc]

Glad your bushing were in good shape. Thanks for the info.
The search goes on.

[bill64]

1) solid pinion spacer shim kit (do not use a crush spacer)
2) 31 spline axle shafts
3) Eaton Truetrac differential
4) Dynotech driveshaft: http://www.dynotechengineering.com/
^^^^ agreed. crush sleeves suck. #2 plus 3 are good upgrades as well. about the drive shaft i have no opinion on that. the crush sleeve eliminator kit sets up the pinion like a dana diff, much more ridgid and easier to set up as compaired to a crush sleeve.

[jimbok1951]

http://jds-high-performance.com/

Anyone know or used this shop in Huntington Valley, Pa for 410 gears install ? A friend of mine who turns wrenches referred me here, says they are heavy into Mustangs. Wanted somone close to NE Philly in the event of any issues on install. I am contacting the shop tomorrow for a price, would be great to hear feedback from here. Also I will see if they perform J mod and trans fluid exchange.

Thanks

[cat in the hat]

http://jds-high-performance.com/

Anyone know or used this shop in Huntington Valley, Pa for 410 gears install ? A friend of mine who turns wrenches referred me here, says they are heavy into Mustangs. Wanted somone close to NE Philly in the event of any issues on install. I am contacting the shop tomorrow for a price, would be great to hear feedback from here. Also I will see if they perform J mod and trans fluid exchange.

Thanks

I would love to know if this place is any good.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

http://jds-high-performance.com/

Anyone know or used this shop in Huntington Valley, Pa for 410 gears install ? A friend of mine who turns wrenches referred me here, says they are heavy into Mustangs. Wanted somone close to NE Philly in the event of any issues on install. I am contacting the shop tomorrow for a price, would be great to hear feedback from here. Also I will see if they perform J mod and trans fluid exchange.

Thanks
This is the guy who installed my Trilogy for the previous owner.

[jimbok1951]

So what are you saying exactly, he was trying to gouge you ? Was the Trilogy install good ? Please explain. When you get a tune don't you have it saved on a SCT or other handheld device ? Don't know, I am pretty much stock with a SCT & 3 tunes on my device.

Thanks

[cat in the hat]

One of the big things on their website is dyno tuning.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Trilogy install is great! I've only spoken with the guy a few times when I was trying to learn about the build and seeing if he could re-tune it to pass NJ inspection.