Rpm dips when turning steering wheel

[silversnake]

Can sometime confirm when I turn the wheels far left or right the rpm dips below 500 and vibrates or should it raise to compensate for the extra load on engine?

[JBFTech]

A decrease in RPM is normal when hitting the steering stops, power steering pump loads up and pressure spikes to the bypass psi limit, putting a big load on the pump and drag on the engine. I'm not sure of any specific RPM that is normal to drop to though, if it's too low it could be a faulty bypass in the pump, but wouldn't worry about it if steering is normal. RPM should increase slightly through normal range of steering until you hit the stops, but not really noticeable on most vehicles IMO.


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[JBFTech]

Sorry should have asked what vehicle are you talking about? Older explorers are horrible about vibrating and RPM dropping on turns, but, nothing fixes em. If you have chatter/vibration when turning, that wasn't always present, there's a chance you've got air in the system.


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[silversnake]

Sorry should have asked what vehicle are you talking about? Older explorers are horrible about vibrating and RPM dropping on turns, but, nothing fixes em. If you have chatter/vibration when turning, that wasn't always present, there's a chance you've got air in the system.


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Today the car cut off on me when I attempted to make a hard left into my drive way from a stop when I restarted the car the steering felt loose, to where I could turn the wheels with a finger. Very smooth. The car also drove a lot better than before. But then later as I was driving the steering felt harder to turn but not stiff. Also felt like the engine had a huge load on it because it required more pressure to the gas pedal to get up to speed.

[MyO4Rawdur]

Today the car cut off on me when I attempted to make a hard left into my drive way from a stop when I restarted the car the steering felt loose, to where I could turn the wheels with a finger. Very smooth. The car also drove a lot better than before. But then later as I was driving the steering felt harder to turn but not stiff. Also felt like the engine had a huge load on it because it required more pressure to the gas pedal to get up to speed.

Your alternator might be taking a dump. I remember when I had my black marauder it happen to me pretty much the same way as you. My compressor for the auto leveling had been starting to go bad and the wiring was worn through a bit causing high resistance which ended up burning out. Right when that happened I checked my alternator and it wasn't producing enough current. When I would turn at low speeds or stops it would nearly stall. You might also have a loose belt but you'd most likely know that if it was loose.
Id check your alternator first. See what that's able to tell you then i'd go for the power steering. I'm pretty sure these cars have the power assisted power steering but not certain so if your alternator is bad its going to cause it to dip. My car does that now but it only dims the lights. May need stronger battery or higher output alternator.

[silversnake]

Your alternator might be taking a dump. I remember when I had my black marauder it happen to me pretty much the same way as you. My compressor for the auto leveling had been starting to go bad and the wiring was worn through a bit causing high resistance which ended up burning out. Right when that happened I checked my alternator and it wasn't producing enough current. When I would turn at low speeds or stops it would nearly stall. You might also have a loose belt but you'd most likely know that if it was loose.
Id check your alternator first. See what that's able to tell you then i'd go for the power steering. I'm pretty sure these cars have the power assisted power steering but not certain so if your alternator is bad its going to cause it to dip. My car does that now but it only dims the lights. May need stronger battery or higher output alternator.

Thank you for the info. I've been checking for vacuum leaks, dirty fuel filter,loose wire connection. Not only was it cutting off when I pegged the wheels to make a tight turn, it's been driving sluggish lately like the engine is under load. Battery volts dips as well when I turn hard. Feel like the dip in rpm, volts and sluggish ride is all tied together. At this point ill try any suggestion.

[MyO4Rawdur]

Thank you for the info. I've been checking for vacuum leaks, dirty fuel filter,loose wire connection. Not only was it cutting off when I pegged the wheels to make a tight turn, it's been driving sluggish lately like the engine is under load. Battery volts dips as well when I turn hard. Feel like the dip in rpm, volts and sluggish ride is all tied together. At this point ill try any suggestion.

the alternator may be the cause of all of this. id go to a technician that you know or go to a shop and have them do an alternator test. pep boys is the worst institution to ever exist so dont go there but somewhere reputable can actually print out the test for you. it might cost a couple bucks but its worth it. replacing the alternator is cake, not sure your mechanical abilities. if you can put on your a/c and see what happens there you might also be able to tell if its the alternator.

another way that you may be able to test your alternator would be with a jump box. turn the wheels all the way to the left while your car is on and see what the voltage drops to; once you check the voltage on your gauge you can return the wheels to center. once you do that you can hook the jump box up to your battery and leave it there, get in your car and turn your wheels all the way to the left. get back out and take the jump box off. if the car stalls with the jump box then its not the alternator. if it doesnt stall then my best guess is the alternator without actually looking at it.

[silversnake]

the alternator may be the cause of all of this. id go to a technician that you know or go to a shop and have them do an alternator test. pep boys is the worst institution to ever exist so dont go there but somewhere reputable can actually print out the test for you. it might cost a couple bucks but its worth it. replacing the alternator is cake, not sure your mechanical abilities. if you can put on your a/c and see what happens there you might also be able to tell if its the alternator.

another way that you may be able to test your alternator would be with a jump box. turn the wheels all the way to the left while your car is on and see what the voltage drops to; once you check the voltage on your gauge you can return the wheels to center. once you do that you can hook the jump box up to your battery and leave it there, get in your car and turn your wheels all the way to the left. get back out and take the jump box off. if the car stalls with the jump box then its not the alternator. if it doesnt stall then my best guess is the alternator without actually looking at it.

Wow...i didn't kno the alternator can cause so much issues. Changing the alternator would be cake if that's the problem.im goin to run a live datalog right now and return with the results

[MyO4Rawdur]

Wow...i didn't kno the alternator can cause so much issues. Changing the alternator would be cake if that's the problem.im goin to run a live datalog right now and return with the results

they are pretty reliable most of the time but when they fail they fail slowly. they dont actually die right away so you see them just start to slow down and stuggle. once the alternator dies youll know it. ill wait for your information upon your return. you can pm me if i dont get back to you right away.

[silversnake]

they are pretty reliable most of the time but when they fail they fail slowly. they dont actually die right away so you see them just start to slow down and stuggle. once the alternator dies youll know it. ill wait for your information upon your return. you can pm me if i dont get back to you right away.

Ok. I started the car, pulled both battery terminals and used a multimeter to test the volt coming from the alternator which was between 13.95-14.02. Them I ran a live datalog using my SCT live link software voltage were lower at 13.65 this was done while in park. I drop the car in drive and the only thing I noticed dropped was the rpm from 750 -550. I turned the wheels all the was to the right and the car shut off. I repeated all steps and same result.

[EMAS]

There is a power steering pressure switch that sends a signal to the computer so it knows of the increased load on the engine. The computer is supposed to open up the IAC to compensate. So my guess is that you've got a bad switch or wiring so the computer isn't seeing that signal and doesn't know to bump up the idle.

[silversnake]

There is a power steering pressure switch that sends a signal to the computer so it knows of the increased load on the engine. The computer is supposed to open up the IAC to compensate. So my guess is that you've got a bad switch or wiring so the computer isn't seeing that signal and doesn't know to bump up the idle.

When I intitally turn the steering wheels the rpm raises slightly but then drops significantly from 600-400 then back to 550 on drive. When I do the same in park it goes from 700-600 then back to 650

[silversnake]

How to check the clutch pulley on the alternator?

[EMAS]

How to check the clutch pulley on the alternator?

Take the belt of and spin the pulley, In the clockwise direction you can feel and see it spin the armature and the counter clockwise direction the armature shouldn't spin.

[silversnake]

Take the belt of and spin the pulley, In the clockwise direction you can feel and see it spin the armature and the counter clockwise direction the armature shouldn't spin.

Earlier I pulled my alternator to get it tested, but before i brought it to the advance auto for testing i spinned the pulley in both ways and the armature spinned also both direction. I then locked the armature by placing a screw driver to stop the armature from spinning then attempted to spin the pulley again but it was locked along with the armature. It pass the charging test though. Good or bad?

[CBT]

Earlier I pulled my alternator to get it tested, but before i brought it to the advance auto for testing i spinned the pulley in both ways and the armature spinned also both direction. I then locked the armature by placing a screw driver to stop the armature from spinning then attempted to spin the pulley again but it was locked along with the armature. It pass the charging test though. Good or bad?
Put a known good one/new one on it and try it and see. If you were nearby, we'd use mine.

[tbone]

If you have a tuner, bump up the rpm's a little. When I put underdrive pulleys on, I had to bump it up a little to counteract slight sluggish steering.

[RF Overlord]

Take the belt of and spin the pulley, In the clockwise direction you can feel and see it spin the armature and the counter clockwise direction the armature shouldn't spin.


Earlier I pulled my alternator to get it tested, but before i brought it to the advance auto for testing i spinned the pulley in both ways and the armature spinned also both direction. I then locked the armature by placing a screw driver to stop the armature from spinning then attempted to spin the pulley again but it was locked along with the armature. It pass the charging test though. Good or bad?Two possibilities:

1) A PO had the alternator replaced at some point.

2) I thought only '03s had the overrunning clutch. Putting your car details in your sig helps us with troubleshooting.

[silversnake]

If you have a tuner, bump up the rpm's a little. When I put underdrive pulleys on, I had to bump it up a little to counteract slight sluggish steering.

No tune, bone stock

[silversnake]

Two possibilities:

1) A PO had the alternator replaced at some point.

2) I thought only '03s had the overrunning clutch. Putting your car details in your sig helps us with troubleshooting.

I own an 03 MM...300b