d/r vortech supercharger

[lilmarauder]

anyone have reinhart vortech supercharger kit? if so how happy are you with it? i am interested in this "kit". seems easier than putting together a eaton swap...but i could be wrong.

[DOOM]

I have known quite a few people with the Reinhart "KIT"

They all seemed to be very pleased with it.

I'm sure some of them will post up.

[jflave]

The kit is good just don't have him do the the install.

[sailsmen]

Use the same rules you use for any multi part item you would buy. Get a list of all the parts and then don't pay until you get all the NEW parts. Use a method of payment that provides recourse in the event of a dispute.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I have a DR Vortech, Non-intercooled kit that I purchased from a member who bought it from DR but never installed it. I went to MO's Speed Shop, one of our supporting vendors and member (martyo) to have it installed. The supplied belt lengths were wrong ( 2 came with it) and fuel pump was changed to a better one, but the rest was complete, but I do know of a member here that has had alot of trouble getting parts sent to him in a timely manner. I got a really good price on it and it came with a Lotek A pillar guage pod and 3 speedhut guages and a new FRPP 4.10 ring and pinion which I have yet to install. I didn't have to deal with DR so I can't tell you what that is like. I 've heard good and have heard bad. It makes nice power and keeps pulling once the rpm band is where it likes it. I just have stock pulley size and no intercooler at this time and still made 411rwhp. An intercooler could add 50+ to that.

[lilmarauder]

i plan on doing all the install work myself. it seems alot of people on this forum are somewhat disgusted with dennis. to my knowledge i have done just about every bolt on mod that is worth doing as far as hp and torque. i am wanting more even with my car having 77,000 miles on it.

[lilmarauder]

that sounds pretty silly to put it nicely. not even supplying the right size belts.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I just had the Vortech installed in Sept. with 75-76000 miles on mine. That's what sort of is nice about the Vortech or centrifugal blower. The car/engine isnt really under boost during normal, average day to day commuting unless you frequent the 3500 - 5000 rpm range regularly. So the engine isn't under the boost load as frequent like in a roots or eaton type. There is plenty of members here with s/c marauders with over 100,000 and 200,000 miles on them.

[lilmarauder]

That's good to know . I didn't know that they operated like that. Perhaps I will get whold of D/R and get one. I wish I could get my hands on a trilogy.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Well, it's sorta like that..they both have boost thru a belt driven device. The centri usually like 3000+ rpm. I'm sure they both provide boost at all rpm, the roots being better for lower end and the centri surely shines at higher end. I hear ya about the Trilogy wants. I could have bought one just as they announced the last few to go, but at $6500 plus another $1500 install as I didn't do myself, i couldn;t justify the costs when I got the Vortech kit with extras for $3800 and took the savings to buy control arms, new tires, had the marauder rims re-finished and installed the vortech at Mo's, all for less than the new Trilogy..but it was a tough decision not to do it. I really like the Trilogy and Eaton swaps.

[88LTDCV351]

but I do know of a member here that has had alot of trouble getting parts sent to him in a timely manner

Careful buying a kit from Dennis. I'll send you a PM.

[lilmarauder]

Yea from my reading a trilogy is the best. But I am with you on your math on the cost. You for sure made the right decision.

[lilmarauder]

A p.m. would be great 88ltdcv351

[SC Cheesehead]

You can do an Eaton swap for $4,500 or less, have you considreed that route?

[martyo]

I have an Eaton swap with just about everything you need if you are interested.

[guspech750]

I payed a little over $4,000 with my dyno tune for my Eaton swap. And I love how it looks OEM too. I get a lot of those complements from people.

It's a sweet ass bang for your buck for sure.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Paul]

I have DR's NOIC Novi1200 self lubricated kit. I have no complaints with it, has been trouble free for the last 40k miles. That being said, I wish I had the Eaton swap for more low end torque, since I rarely get to let the dogs out. Regarding the kit, it took roughly four months and several follow up calls to get all of the pieces delivered, and with that I got two belts of the wrong size and other miscellaneous minor details. At least with the Eaton swap you have a parts list to follow and have control over the sourcing and timing.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

I have an Eaton swap with just about everything you need if you are interested.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^

Jump on this (not what she said).

[lilmarauder]

I would love to do a eaton swap.

[lilmarauder]

Yea I'm interested. P.m. sent

[guspech750]

Yea I'm interested. P.m. sent

Wooooooooo hooooooooo :burnout:


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[SC Cheesehead]

Wooooooooo hooooooooo :burnout:


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom


HOOOHA! Another one may be joining the fold! :banana:

[Blackmobile]

Curious how much RWHP Does an Eaton swap typically put out?

[guspech750]

Curious how much RWHP Does an Eaton swap typically put out?

Mine squeezed out 400rwhp and 410rwtq through the stock exhaust, 10-11psi, stock Cobra intake and non ported Eaton.
I think the timing was at 13degrees during the dyno tune if I remember correctly.

Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[SC Cheesehead]

Curious how much RWHP Does an Eaton swap typically put out?


Anywhere from 400 to 450 rwhp, depending on the pulley sizing, exhaust, and the dyno tune.

I'm currently at 430 with my set up.

[Blackmobile]

Anywhere from 400 to 450 rwhp, depending on the pulley sizing, exhaust, and the dyno tune.

I'm currently at 430 with my set up.

On how much Boost?

[Spectragod]

Curious how much RWHP Does an Eaton swap typically put out?

Uhhhmmmmm, not enough?:lol::rofl:

[Blackmobile]

Stop reading my mind! lol


Uhhhmmmmm, not enough?:lol::rofl:

[lilmarauder]

I am wanting to do this but I have no idea where to start. Ebay a m112 ? I'm having trouble finding a complete parts list. Help? Send me a link lol.

[guspech750]

I bought my parts from eBay, Froozenboost.com and a couple Mustang forums. I bought O-rings for the COT and water inlet adapter on the lower intake manifold, new alt pully and a few misc stuff from my local Ford dealer. Bought my wires, connectors and wire loom from Home Depot.

The Beauty of the Eaton swap is, is that you can buy parts as funds permit. No need to fork over thousands of dollars right off the bat.

And definitely get the one piece three gauge pod for the Marauder. Painted to match out interior. http://www.gaugepods.com/mercury.html
Here's mine.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/25/eva3ysus.jpg

Rexy can send you a nicely laid out list of parts and some places to buy from along with more good info.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[camelgrundle]

I am currently installing the dr kit and instructions are shorty and it took 7 months to get all parts but other than that its a great kit haha. Just call every day to get it quicker if u go that route.

[Pat]

I'm very happy with my DR kit, more than 50K miles. To enhance the low end I've installed 4:10's and a PI 3500 Stall converter.

[sailsmen]

I am currently installing the dr kit and instructions are shorty and it took 7 months to get all parts but other than that its a great kit haha. Just call every day to get it quicker if u go that route.

7 Months? That is criminal!:mad:

[LANDY]

I am currently installing the dr kit and instructions are shorty and it took 7 months to get all parts but other than that its a great kit haha. Just call every day to get it quicker if u go that route.

Wow 7 months lol. I can make a kit from scratch in a month or so with a full time job.

[jflave]

7 Months? That is criminal!:mad: He is a criminal & guys still stick up for him. I don't get it.

[88LTDCV351]

I am currently installing the dr kit and instructions are shorty and it took 7 months to get all parts but other than that its a great kit haha. Just call every day to get it quicker if u go that route.
7 months? Consider yourself lucky. Its been over 16 months and my kit from him still isn't complete.

[LANDY]

7 months? Consider yourself lucky. Its been over 16 months and my kit from him still isn't complete.
What do you need?

[jflave]

There has been a members MM at his shop since before July 2011 & it is still not back together. I wish he would come on here & post something about how he found his MM when flew down unannounced. WE have talked but he has asked me not to ID him, he has allready purchased another MM as his will never be the same. (and i thought i got robbed)

[Blackmobile]

I was at his shop 2 weeks ago to get my Marauder (with his Blow Through setup) tuned and am very pleased with out come. I've also had his A2A Vortech kit and it was a beast to say the least. The products speak for themselves.

[88LTDCV351]

What do you need?

Well, he never gave me the canned retune (can't use it anyway since its not a smog legal tune so I have to go custom), never got any couplers or rubber sections and things to connect the pipes together, never got a fuel pump or strainer, never got a different air box.

What does the brackets for the power steering or dip stick tube look like? I do have some brackets but I think they might be for the intercooler? or radiator cooling fan? What are the power steering or dip stick brackets? Fuel pump splice? Coolant resevior?

[Blackened300a]

I was at his shop 2 weeks ago to get my Marauder (with his Blow Through setup) tuned and am very pleased with out come. I've also had his A2A Vortech kit and it was a beast to say the least. The products speak for themselves.

Of you course you got great service, its those in different states and countries that can't just show up that easily that he screws over the most. 95% of any positive reviews are from those that live within a few hours drive.

[Vortech347]

I have always wondered what the difference is between the Merc kit and the 99-01 Cobra kits.

[jflave]

Of you course you got great service, its those in different states and countries that can't just show up that easily that he screws over the most. 95% of any positive reviews are from those that live within a few hours drive. +1 you hit the nail on the head. :)

[screamn]

In before the lock.......

:popcorn:

[88LTDCV351]

Well, he never gave me the canned retune (can't use it anyway since its not a smog legal tune so I have to go custom), never got any couplers or rubber sections and things to connect the pipes together, never got a fuel pump or strainer, never got a different air box.

What does the brackets for the power steering or dip stick tube look like? I do have some brackets but I think they might be for the intercooler? or radiator cooling fan? What are the power steering or dip stick brackets? Fuel pump splice? Coolant resevior?

Any help guys in sourcing the rest of the parts? Also, what do all of the brackets look like since I think I'm still missing some.

[LANDY]

Well, he never gave me the canned retune (can't use it anyway since its not a smog legal tune so I have to go custom), never got any couplers or rubber sections and things to connect the pipes together, never got a fuel pump or strainer, never got a different air box.

What does the brackets for the power steering or dip stick tube look like? I do have some brackets but I think they might be for the intercooler? or radiator cooling fan? What are the power steering or dip stick brackets? Fuel pump splice? Coolant resevior?
The brackets for PS and oil dipstick are small. They can be made quite easily. The I/C brackets are larger. The radiador fan brakets are also longer with an S bend.all those brakets can be made with ease. The coolant reservoir is from a 96 town car. They run around $70 from Ford. Fuel pump swap is easy too. If your mechanically inclined with a little imagination it can be done, if not take it to a shop.

[LANDY]

(with his Blow Through setup) The products speak for themselves.
His blow thru setup. I LMAO come on Ed, blow thru has been around for more than 7 years. Its nothing more and relocation maf and Bypass valve. Also his kit (not) there is a long story about that, he didnt make the kit i know the person who made the awsome pipes he claims he made. He has a whiney way of making relations and a dirty way of destroying them.

[88LTDCV351]

Here is a photo of some of the brackets I got. Which are these?

[88LTDCV351]

And here is some more circled in red.

[LANDY]

Those are i/c brakets. The two straight are lower the bend one is upper.

[88LTDCV351]

OK, looks like I still need this power steering or dip stick tube bracket then.

[LANDY]

I see the fan brackets there.

[Marauderman]

anyone have reinhart vortech supercharger kit? if so how happy are you with it? i am interested in this "kit". seems easier than putting together a eaton swap...but i could be wrong.

I have one of his first series of water to air S/C units----all good since '03--except for the water inner cooler tank --should have kept some ant-freeze in it--this past week the pump for it must have froze--the MM is outside for first time in 10 years due to new truck in garage--so cold froze it --duh!

Don't think this "kit" is available any longer...so good luck..........

[sailsmen]

Good Luck!

[88LTDCV351]

Can anyone provide some pics of the missing parts? If I have to get them fabbed, it would be nice to know what they need to look like or thier dimensions.

I was able to get the coolant resevior from my local dealer.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Do you still have the fuel pump thermostat info i emailed you prolly in august/sept.? And i remember emailing sizes of the silicone couplers but mine do not include intercooler connections. I did not get the dipstick brackdt.i have to make one yet. Motown marauder knows a website that carries the silicone couplers. And other stuff related. Air box is just a k n cone filter and two pieces of sheet metal to sort of srperate it from engine. Sorry typing on phone at work

[LANDY]

Siliconeintakes.com has your all you need for your pipes. I can get back to you with measurements when i get back in town.

[88LTDCV351]

Do you still have the fuel pump thermostat info i emailed you prolly in august/sept.? And i remember emailing sizes of the silicone couplers but mine do not include intercooler connections. I did not get the dipstick brackdt.i have to make one yet. Motown marauder knows a website that carries the silicone couplers. And other stuff related. Air box is just a k n cone filter and two pieces of sheet metal to sort of srperate it from engine. Sorry typing on phone at work

Yes, I still have that email somewhere. Thanks, appreciate the help. I'll have to find it but I know I have it still. I bought the thermostat from Amazon. I have the cone filter but I don't have the sheet metal.

[88LTDCV351]

Siliconeintakes.com has your all you need for your pipes. I can get back to you with measurements when i get back in town.

Thanks, any and all help is appreciated.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I prolly still have the emails too so i can look later and resend. Never hurts to have too much info even if duplicate. Ill help.with info etc as well. Pat has great info and the guys at Mos speed shop im sure would help with some info. Pm marty.he can prolly have brandon fab stuff up if needed. They have done alot of vortech work on marauders and mustangs. Marty treats us right and a huge asset to us.

[camelgrundle]

im just waiting on the intercooler piping hopefully its in the mail. oh yea and the re-tune.

[camelgrundle]

i have a question though. my bap is one that does not need a control knob. and every write up is for the kenne bell. the wires coming out of it are the red wire connected to a fuse, an orange wire, black wire, and tiny brown wire. any idea which goes where.

[Vortech347]

i have a question though. my bap is one that does not need a control knob. and every write up is for the kenne bell. the wires coming out of it are the red wire connected to a fuse, an orange wire, black wire, and tiny brown wire. any idea which goes where.

Your BAP should have 2 heavier gauge red wires. One is the HOT to the BAP, the other is the HOT to the fuel pump. The 1 heavier gauge black wire is the ground.

As for the other wires coming out, 1 pair is for the controller knob, by wiring these together it makes the BAP run 100%. There is another pair of wires that go to a hobbs fuel pressure switch. Connecting these 2 wires also make it run 100% of the time.

If it is installed PRE FPDM you want it at 100% with no knob.

[88LTDCV351]

I prolly still have the emails too so i can look later and resend. Never hurts to have too much info even if duplicate. Ill help.with info etc as well. Pat has great info and the guys at Mos speed shop im sure would help with some info. Pm marty.he can prolly have brandon fab stuff up if needed. They have done alot of vortech work on marauders and mustangs. Marty treats us right and a huge asset to us.

Thanks again, Mark. I had forgotten about some of those emails.

[OneBADLsE]

I was at his shop 2 weeks ago to get my Marauder (with his Blow Through setup) tuned and am very pleased with out come. I've also had his A2A Vortech kit and it was a beast to say the least. The products speak for themselves.

We all know if you live near DR your result will differ from those out of state :shake:

[pacammer]

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits. He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary

[sailsmen]

When was the last time Dennis worked on your MM?

[Baaad GN]

Poor Dennis, eighter you love him or Absolutely HATE him!

[MMBLUE]

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp.


WOW 800 RWHP :rolleyes:

This must a super duper new "SPECIAL" kit ;)

[jflave]

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits. He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary800 RWHP ?? what ET's did you do & was that a stock motor ? :dunno: Just asking

[Marauderman]

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits. He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary


When was the last time Dennis worked on your MM?


WOW 800 RWHP :rolleyes:

This must a super duper new "SPECIAL" kit ;)


800 RWHP ?? what ET's did you do & was that a stock motor ? :dunno: Just asking

Uh, as I said earlier , I too have an original water to air "kit"--but not with a relocated battery---and what they say^^^^^^ above does seem to contradict
all known similiar "kits"...so some more specs would definiately help the growd here for sure--me being one --very curious about that 800?

Could you get the details and post them up or have him do it for us---Thanks

[sailsmen]

loco1234 did a lot of write ups on his set up, it was a long development process. Just search his posts.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1232041&highlight=supercharger#post123 2041
11-02-2012, 07:53 PM
Loco1234's Avatar Loco1234 Loco1234 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Walsh View Post
..............

You'll need some BIG AZZ brakes to rein in 800 RWHP!!!!


Yah Last time the Maruder got dyno well well over a year ago & it was 623RWHP on pump gas & that was with the old Vortec Supercharger.. Now have installed a new JT -Trim & a few other mods... Some include improved intercooling etc... SO the Dyno session is coming up but I expect a good 100+RWHP increase thus 800RWHP give or take.. Pump gas... in PA is 93 for Super... There are a few Sunoco's that offer 94 octane at the pump but I don't dyno tune to that...

Thus I have been planning once money is avail to order & install a big Arse brake upgrade... so curious if this new one is better than the previous 6 piston setup...

I run the 6 piston Wilwood setup on a 65 Ac cobra w/ a 427 SOHC "Cammer" motor (all AL) so I know they have stopping power... However I use a wide 6 piston setup...
__________________
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[Marauderman]

Thanks for the above post with the info----

Taken from it---" Now have installed a new JT -Trim & a few other mods..."
explains a whole lot vs what I have -----yep, nothing like some details....thanks again--

[Blk04MM]

Siliconeintakes.com has your all you need for your pipes. I can get back to you with measurements when i get back in town.

Nice site. I will definitely bookmark that.

[Joe Walsh]

I have a Vortech kit from Dennis. We worked out an air/water inter-cooled kit with the battery re-located to the trunk. The kit has great performance with near 800 rw hp. For all the details PM my son, loco1234. He has all the spec's and photos. Dennis now provides Paxton Novi air/air kits.
He still provides and supports Vortech. Great guy, excellent support.

Gary

After plenty of R&D via Greg at F.I.T. .....:shake:

[pacammer]

Folks,

My Marauder is not a drag car. I am an old Ford mule driver. Long before Sprint Cup the factory teams did R&D racing on the Saturday before the big race free of charge for the folks. That is my driving experience and how I like to run.

My best advise is to set a goal and a budget for your build. Then get smart, read, study, ask advise, then set a plan.

Here is a short list of findings;

1. our aluminum block can handle the same horse power and pressures as the aluminator block
2. get a kellog crank, do not stroke it rather over bore your cylinders by .30, mathmatically this is a perfect stroke to bore ratio for your new 5.0 engine
3. our cams are excellent with stage 3 porting and plolishing for our heads, I used fox racing
4. valves and retainers need to be upgraded to handle over 6500 rpm, mine can hadle 7500 rpm without valve float
5. install a Melling high volume, not high pressure oil pump
6. install a head cooling cross-over kit
7. every type supercharger or turbo charger benefits most with air/water intercooling. The needed radiator and fans will fit up front on the Marauder
8. get the Jmod trans upgrade for your tranny
9. have your new CP or Diamond pistons top ceramic coated and side skirts slip coated. This will enable a nominal cylinder compression ratio up to 10.5/1 even if boosted. Ceramic coatings suppress detonation
10. for drag racing use Maley H beam rods, for track racing use Oliver light weight I beam rods. Always have your rotating assembly fully balanced
11. modify your suspension and drive line for your intended use, Drag or track. I run track at Pocono International Raceway therefore I have a track set up. It consists of Adco F&R sway bars, Zack&Mac upper and lower control arms , metco watts ling with 50% of the bushings being delrin, moser 32 spline axels, Detroit True Trac differential, factory rear ratio, balanced composite drive shaft.

Yes there is a Santa. I regularly run down and out corner Ferrari's, Lamborginni's, and Maserati's. Not bad for a taxi cab/police cruiser.

This is my two cents based up experience and proven performance. By the way, I get 23 mpg at 75 mph on the highway

There are many other mods that can be done. This is only a short list.

Regards,
Gary

[Gordy]

Folks,

My Marauder is not a drag car. I am an old Ford mule driver. Long before Sprint Cup the factory teams did R&D racing on the Saturday before the big race free of charge for the folks. That is my driving experience and how I like to run.

My best advise is to set a goal and a budget for your build. Then get smart, read, study, ask advise, then set a plan.

Yes there is a Santa. I regularly run down and out corner Ferrari's, Lamborginni's, and Maserati's. Not bad for a taxi cab/police cruiser.

This is my two cents based up experience and proven performance. By the way, I get 23 mpg at 75 mph on the highway

There are many other mods that can be done. This is only a short list.

Regards,
Gary

Preach it man

[jflave]

Gary, enjoy your ride, would love to see you in action one day. No disrespect directed at you its the other person (DR) that i know is a crook.

[pacammer]

Jflave,

I respectfully disagree.

Regards,
Gary

[Blackened300a]

Jflave,

I respectfully disagree.

Regards,
Gary

Gary you may wanna check out some old threads in the vendor review forum and you will understand why he feels that way. Plus way too many members have had negative experiences in dealing with him. Just consider yourself lucky that you had a positive experience.

[clintons4]

(DR) that i know is a crook.

I hear too much bad crap about this guy. I don't understand how he is still in business. :confused:

[IwantmyMMnow!]

Never had any business dealings with DR, but I'm tired of reading a thread I'm interested in and stumble into all the back-n-forth about him.

If you were wronged by this person, sorry to hear that. If you have great dealings with this person, good for you.

He's been dismissed from this site and yet a year later people have to defend/berate this guy and stir up the pot.

WHY?

[SC Cheesehead]

Never had any business dealings with DR, but I'm tired of reading a thread I'm interested in and stumble into all the back-n-forth about him.

If you were wronged by this person, sorry to hear that. If you have great dealings with this person, good for you.

He's been dismissed from this site and yet a year later everyone has to defend/berate this guy.

WHY?


One of the things I've learned over here in Qatar is, "Just because they do something doesn't mean it has to make sense."

'Nuff said... ;)

[Blackened300a]

He's been dismissed from this site and yet a year later people have to defend/berate this guy and stir up the pot.

WHY?

To protect new marauder owners who may consider using DR to purchase products for their car. Wouldn't you be pissed if you spent a considerable amount of money, then get screwed over and have your car destroyed by this hack or would you prefer to have a warning from time to time from people who had nightmare experiences?
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.

[MOTOWN]

I must agree I would want to be fore warned! And I think everyone else should have that warning also!

[IwantmyMMnow!]

To protect new marauder owners who may consider using DR to purchase products for their car. Wouldn't you be pissed if you spent a considerable amount of money, then get screwed over and have your car destroyed by this hack or would you prefer to have a warning from time to time from people who had nightmare experiences?
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.

Paul, I understand what you're saying and agree with you. I would be very upset if it happened to me. It's been a year now since he's been banned, so most new MM owners probably don't know about him, unless they are near him or from what they read on here. Now that Mo's has replaced him and done an excellent job, I would tend to think those in the SE would consider him.

Believe me, I think it sucks that people got screwed and I'm all for protecting the members on here. He was called out and asked to be removed from the site, which was done. I'm just getting tired of running into the back-n-forth about him. The horse has been beaten, is dead and buried, dug back up and beaten some more. I realize I'm not the authority to tell people what they can/can't say and I know the animosity will exist as long as this site does...just frustrated at seeing it brought up again and again.

Remembering history is important, but do we have to re-live it?

Respectfully,

Iwant

PS--Is it April yet? :beer:

[Vortech347]

Folks,

My Marauder is not a drag car. I am an old Ford mule driver. Long before Sprint Cup the factory teams did R&D racing on the Saturday before the big race free of charge for the folks. That is my driving experience and how I like to run.

My best advise is to set a goal and a budget for your build. Then get smart, read, study, ask advise, then set a plan.

Here is a short list of findings;

1. our aluminum block can handle the same horse power and pressures as the aluminator block
2. get a kellog crank, do not stroke it rather over bore your cylinders by .30, mathmatically this is a perfect stroke to bore ratio for your new 5.0 engine
3. our cams are excellent with stage 3 porting and plolishing for our heads, I used fox racing
4. valves and retainers need to be upgraded to handle over 6500 rpm, mine can hadle 7500 rpm without valve float
5. install a Melling high volume, not high pressure oil pump
6. install a head cooling cross-over kit
7. every type supercharger or turbo charger benefits most with air/water intercooling. The needed radiator and fans will fit up front on the Marauder
8. get the Jmod trans upgrade for your tranny
9. have your new CP or Diamond pistons top ceramic coated and side skirts slip coated. This will enable a nominal cylinder compression ratio up to 10.5/1 even if boosted. Ceramic coatings suppress detonation
10. for drag racing use Maley H beam rods, for track racing use Oliver light weight I beam rods. Always have your rotating assembly fully balanced
11. modify your suspension and drive line for your intended use, Drag or track. I run track at Pocono International Raceway therefore I have a track set up. It consists of Adco F&R sway bars, Zack&Mac upper and lower control arms , metco watts ling with 50% of the bushings being delrin, moser 32 spline axels, Detroit True Trac differential, factory rear ratio, balanced composite drive shaft.

Yes there is a Santa. I regularly run down and out corner Ferrari's, Lamborginni's, and Maserati's. Not bad for a taxi cab/police cruiser.

This is my two cents based up experience and proven performance. By the way, I get 23 mpg at 75 mph on the highway

There are many other mods that can be done. This is only a short list.

Regards,
Gary

Going .030 over with stock stroke and block does not yield 5.0l of displacement.

[88LTDCV351]

We need Mo to offer up a turn key Vortech kit. :) I'm sure he'd get some business from us Cali folks.

[Vortech347]

A Non-IC base Si-trim kit would be damn nice.

Eaton swaps are great but Vortech kits are always cake to install.

[LANDY]

Its not hard to put a kit together. I can have the pipes made. The other stuff can be source without a problem. I built a kit for MMblue from scratch.

[MMBLUE]

Its not hard to put a kit together. I can have the pipes made. The other stuff can be source without a problem. I built a kit for MMblue from scratch.


FTW for sure. Kudos to Landy :bows:. You just have to gather up all the parts. The HUGE hang up is the pipes. Everything else is buy this here, and that there.

[Vortech347]

Its not hard to put a kit together. I can have the pipes made. The other stuff can be source without a problem. I built a kit for MMblue from scratch.

What was your ball park on price?

[MMBLUE]

What was your ball park on price?

It can easily be done for under 4K. Ask me how I know.;)

[88LTDCV351]

OK, so I recognize number one on this photo as being the pipe that starts from the throttle body. What order do the rest of the pipes go in with an intercooler?

[camelgrundle]

I know the 2 u shaped ones go to either side of the inter cooler and one goes from the throttle piece and the other goes from charger to air box. If that helps. Try mocking it up I'm on that step too.

[88LTDCV351]

Maybe someone can post a picture of thier pipes on thier car. Intercooled or not, at least the pipes from the throttle body to the Vortech supercharger has to be the same.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Here is non-intercooled...Airbox to S/C (large black rubber elbow) then from S/C outlet to intake..with I/C tubes,it would go down to I/C then up to intake instead of right off S/C to intake.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu92/mdnos/2012-09-09_12-11-36_960.jpg

[LANDY]

Here you go!!!

[Blown3.8]

This is my guess. The only pipe that looks familiar to me is #4. Actually #5 looks like the non IC'd charge pipe.

[LANDY]

Yes number 5 doesnt belong there. He sent u the wrong pipe. What a surprise.lol

[Vortech347]

Here is non-intercooled...Airbox to S/C (large black rubber elbow) then from S/C outlet to intake..with I/C tubes,it would go down to I/C then up to intake instead of right off S/C to intake.



Nice. I would love a non-IC kit.

[88LTDCV351]

Yes number 5 doesnt belong there. He sent u the wrong pipe. What a surprise.lol

Well, he definately sent me an Intercooler.

Thanks guys for the pictures.

[sailsmen]

#5 Looks like Marauder Mark's Pipe or it could be Charlie Sheen's pipe.

[88LTDCV351]

Pipe number 5 is definately the wrong size. It is too small in diameter to hook up to the supercharger elbow like Rubbercityrauders photo. Most pipes measure 3 inches in diameter except for pipe one with an opening measuring 3 and a half inches. I imagine the coupler will have to adjust the size on that one.

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/3569/p3170067.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/p3170067.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[88LTDCV351]

Thanks to Mark, looks like I can get a number of 3" couplers (probably 3 or 4) and a 3 to 3.5 hose reducer at Treadstone performance engineering. But would still need a coupler to attach to the intake which might not be a common size. And I'll still need a pipe that would go from the Vortech to the airbox (I dont' have an airbox either).

[Limited360]

hmmmm and I am thinking of getting a D/R vortech kit... Time to rethink it sounds like..

[sailsmen]

Thanks to Mark, looks like I can get a number of 3" couplers (probably 3 or 4) and a 3 to 3.5 hose reducer at Treadstone performance engineering. But would still need a coupler to attach to the intake which might not be a common size. And I'll still need a pipe that would go from the Vortech to the airbox (I dont' have an airbox either).

Send them all those crack pipes back, get the credit on your CC and buy them from some one else.

There are a number of sources for couplers and T-clamps.
In the past I had good luck with boostcontroller.com.

Assuming you have a V-2 Vortech and the same IceVex IC the spec on the TClamps to use.

Location - Starting S/C Discharge Type Hose ID Min Max
Top S/C discharge 312 2.750 2.906 3.219
Bottom S/C discharge 338 3.000 3.156 3.469
IC Intake/Outtake, 4 Clamps 338 3.000 3.156 3.469
IC Intake Elbow 338 3.000 3.156 3.469
IC Outake Elbow 388 3.500 3.656 3.969
Intake, 2 Clamps 488 4.500 4.750 5.063
Power pipe, in/out, 2 Clamps 438 4.000 4.156 4.469
TB to Intake Elbow Coupling 2"L 4.50ID.

Good Luck.

[GAMike]

hmmmm and I am thinking of getting a D/R vortech kit... Time to rethink it sounds like..

You have Lideo right over in Mt. Clemmons MI at Alternative Automotive
and you have Mo's Speed Shop here in Metro ATL (both supporting vendors here) if you were of the mind to travel..... Between those 2 shops, its kind of hard to see value in bringing a car all the way down to Florida.....

Either of these shops can install/tune/plumb a Vortec kit no problem....:beer:

[jflave]

You have Lideo right over in Mt. Clemmons MI at Alternative Automotive
and you have Mo's Speed Shop here in Metro ATL (both supporting vendors here) if you were of the mind to travel..... Between those 2 shops, its kind of hard to see value in bringing a car all the way down to Florida.....

Either of these shops can install/tune/plumb a Vortec kit no problem....:beer: Both shops are good, you can't go wrong :)

[Limited360]

I would go to Lidio to do the install for sure... Was just looking at doing the install myself so was looking for an 'off the shelf' kit... still researching, getting knowledge!

[guspech750]

Boooooost! Just do it:burnout:


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[jwibbity]

Do it!!!!!!

[Accumulator]

I would go to Lidio to do the...[Vortech].. install for sure...

I had Lidio retune my DR-Vorteched Crown Vic, and yeah, he (Lidio) is very good. He's *not*, however, a fan of the Vortech setup for Panthers.

[88LTDCV351]

I had Lidio retune my DR-Vorteched Crown Vic, and yeah, he (Lidio) is very good. He's *not*, however, a fan of the Vortech setup for Panthers.

Its just too bad Trilogy didn't fork out some money to get its kit CARB EO numbered like Vortech. I can tell you there would have been a good number of additional kits sold to us Cali folks for sure. Myself included after my disappointment with DR.

[lji372]

I have an Eaton swap with just about everything you need if you are interested.

i'm thinking you just made twenty people start checking their bank balance:lol:


(on a side note, still can't find that dang computer:mad2:)

[martyo]

i'm thinking you just made twenty people start checking their bank balance:lol:


(on a side note, still can't find that dang computer:mad2:)

That kit has since been sold. :banana2:

[lji372]

Hmm was it sold to bad merc?

[martyo]

Hmm was it sold to bad merc?

Nope. Some random guy.

[lji372]

Was it today. Just curious. I put in a thread this morning you had one. Hoping he wasn't asleep at the wheel.

[88LTDCV351]

Send them all those crack pipes back, get the credit on your CC and buy them from some one else.



Its a little too late for that. After all I went through to get as much as I did receive, I'd rather just complete this kit someday and be done with it. Besides, not sure after almost 2 years, that he would honor a return. I'm more a turn the other cheek guy but I'm not throwing anymore of my business that way.

[martyo]

Was it today. Just curious. I put in a thread this morning you had one. Hoping he wasn't asleep at the wheel.

No, a little while back. Thanks for the referral though!!!

[88LTDCV351]

If Chris is going to be making a Vortech kit, should I just buy that complete kit and sell the items I got from DR (the incomplete kit)?

[RubberCtyRauder]

Why not see if you can buy only what you need ?

[88LTDCV351]

Chris did help me in finally completing my kit. I need to finish going through the parts I got from DR and Chris and just take stock of all I got. Chris is a standup guy at ADTR.

With my engine reaching 162,000+ miles, not sure its a good idea to supercharge it now. Just wait until it blows up and then rebuild where it can then handle the additional power of the kit.

But my question is what gauges are supercharged marauders getting for their Lotek A pillar 3 gauge pod? Boost? Trans temp? Are there Autometers that have the same style faceplate for those gauges to match the existing Voltmeter and oil meter?

[RubberCtyRauder]

boost, fuel pressure, wideband

autometer ultralite, very close matching

[Pat]

Only real problem was loose belt, Zack fixed that.

However, I'm running Mo's tune now @ 431 RWHP. S/C and installation still running good. Using a 50 shot NOS as a cooling charge to control IAT's somewhat.

[camelgrundle]

What he said^^ and I would install it now because you will have fun till that engine quits and not too much of a problem to take the accessories off when and if it does.

[Spectragod]

Chris did help me in finally completing my kit. I need to finish going through the parts I got from DR and Chris and just take stock of all I got. Chris is a standup guy at ADTR.

With my engine reaching 162,000+ miles, not sure its a good idea to supercharge it now. Just wait until it blows up and then rebuild where it can then handle the additional power of the kit.

But my question is what gauges are supercharged marauders getting for their Lotek A pillar 3 gauge pod? Boost? Trans temp? Are there Autometers that have the same style faceplate for those gauges to match the existing Voltmeter and oil meter?



Oil pressure, boost, wide band, fuel pressure, trans temp, killer chiller temp gauge, volts and a aero force for my iat's.


Sent from my iPhone while doing a big ole' smokey burnout in my wife's Prius.

[justbob]

I like simple..

AFR
Boost

Anything else can be data logged.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I like simple..

AFR
Boost

Anything else can be data logged.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

That's how I roll.

[88LTDCV351]

OK, so I'm thinking the below:

http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-boost-0-15-psi-fse-ultra-lite.html
http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-fuel-press-0-15-psi-w-o-peak-valley-4210.html
http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-analog-wideband-fse-ultra-lite.html

[Spectragod]

OK, so I'm thinking the below:

http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-boost-0-15-psi-fse-ultra-lite.html
http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-fuel-press-0-15-psi-w-o-peak-valley-4210.html
http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-analog-wideband-fse-ultra-lite.html

15 psi fuel pressure is going to be buried while any FI car is running, you'll want 100 psi unit

[RubberCtyRauder]

you can also buy cheaper than autometer direct. part number search on amazon and Google turn up better pricing

[RF Overlord]

Might wanna switch to this boost gauge (http://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-boost-vac-30-in-hg-20-psi-mech-4293.html)...always helpful to have a vacuum reading for troubleshooting.