View Full Version : Oem Stub Shaft vs. 300m Hardened
tbone
12-22-2012, 02:44 PM
Some expressed their doubts about me not using a hardened 300m shaft on my trans repairs. Here is Alan Brown of DirtyDog Performance explaining why the 300m hardened stub shaft is not the way to go vs. his hardened direct drum and oem shaft:
"The problem is caused by bind up not power, The 300m stub shaft will just cause the drum to twist on a stock drum. That does way more damage. If you notice the drum twisted with the shaft. By hardening the drum the shaft becomes stronger as the drum prevents it from twisting as easy. At that point the shaft becomes a fuse because if you use the 300m unit you will strip the back of the forward drum out, or the forward hub or the direct hub. Whichever has the most wear at that point A broken shaft is a cheap easy fix, the rest of the problems are not. The only real answer is to prevent the problem that causes it. Clutch slippage on shift is better than parts breakage.
Low line pressure can delay the shift timing and increase these failures. This can be caused by a worn pressure regulator valve and/or a worn pressure control solenoid. The general rule to prevent the problem in a good transmission is never play in overdrive. If you are going to be hard on it always turn off overdrive and wait for the downshift before doing so.
We can go all out use a 300m shaft and a 300m drum, but you’ll still break one of the other components when the problem occurs and in most cases those will not only make the car not move at all, cost way more to fix and contaminate the entire transmission, torque converter and cooler. When the stub shaft breaks you still have first second and reverse, the problem stays contained well and can be fixed for under $50 in parts."
Bradley G
12-22-2012, 03:20 PM
I love both my built trannys' they hit quick and firm, I was advised against the hardened shaft by several people, I consider these individules to be experts in thier field.
MM2004
12-22-2012, 03:38 PM
Interesting.
Dumbass question.. Does high line pressure and a Jmod increase the chance of this type of failure?
Mike.
tbone
12-22-2012, 05:32 PM
I believe that's what caused my problem.
Marauderjack
12-23-2012, 02:57 PM
Some expressed their doubts about me not using a hardened 300m shaft on my trans repairs. Here is Alan Brown of DirtyDog Performance explaining why the 300m hardened stub shaft is not the way to go vs. his hardened direct drum and oem shaft:
"The problem is caused by bind up not power, The 300m stub shaft will just cause the drum to twist on a stock drum. That does way more damage. If you notice the drum twisted with the shaft. By hardening the drum the shaft becomes stronger as the drum prevents it from twisting as easy. At that point the shaft becomes a fuse because if you use the 300m unit you will strip the back of the forward drum out, or the forward hub or the direct hub. Whichever has the most wear at that point A broken shaft is a cheap easy fix, the rest of the problems are not. The only real answer is to prevent the problem that causes it. Clutch slippage on shift is better than parts breakage.
Low line pressure can delay the shift timing and increase these failures. This can be caused by a worn pressure regulator valve and/or a worn pressure control solenoid. The general rule to prevent the problem in a good transmission is never play in overdrive. If you are going to be hard on it always turn off overdrive and wait for the downshift before doing so.
We can go all out use a 300m shaft and a 300m drum, but you’ll still break one of the other components when the problem occurs and in most cases those will not only make the car not move at all, cost way more to fix and contaminate the entire transmission, torque converter and cooler. When the stub shaft breaks you still have first second and reverse, the problem stays contained well and can be fixed for under $50 in parts."
http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/transmission-rebuild-kits-and-parts/aod/aode/4r70w/cat_23.html
EXACTLY what I was told and my transmission builder agreed!!:beer:
tbone
01-08-2013, 01:51 PM
Don't buy a thing from Dirty Dog. I waited three weeks for the parts when he said it would be 1 week, he repeatedly lied about it being shipped by UPS and then the post office, and he finally sent me a used direct drum that was literally worn out junk yard crap, supposedly heat treated. Then he had the balls to say it was all my fault because I rushed him and he wants restocking fees. Unbelievable.
babbage
01-08-2013, 02:16 PM
Don't buy a thing from Dirty Dog. I waited three weeks for the parts when he said it would be 1 week, he repeatedly lied about it being shipped by UPS and then the post office, and he finally sent me a used direct drum that was literally worn out junk yard crap, supposedly heat treated. Then he had the balls to say it was all my fault because I rushed him and he wants restocking fees. Unbelievable.
^^ Wowzer. Sorry about that, thanks for sharing.
tbone
01-08-2013, 02:26 PM
This is the crap he sent me. You can see the excessive grooves in the hole and sanding with emery cloth, and the rust on the inside of the drum. Plus the splines show excessive wear because the drum wasn't riding true anymore. What a scheister! (Sorry they are upside down.)
justbob
01-08-2013, 04:33 PM
O.M.G... How is it guys like this remain in business???
Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk
mach1soldier
01-17-2013, 06:59 PM
Can't say i'm really suprised... I got a bad converter due to suppliers putting out bad products. He fixed it for the cost of shipping but if you know you shipped out converters with bad clutch linings, wouldn't you at least try to help some people out.
I will say I have another one of his converters and it worked great.
Maybe it depends on the day.
RacerX
01-17-2013, 08:44 PM
Well, every damn piece in the AOD I took apart is hardened. I'm going to use just about every part in my 4R and get a 300M stub. Bullet proof enough for my power levels soon to be. Pics of the above parts on mine:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/medium/IMG_0935a.jpg (javascript:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/medium/IMG_0936a.jpg (javascript:;)
Sorry to hear that tbone.
I know you were pissed!!! :mad2:
tbone
01-17-2013, 11:47 PM
Well, every damn piece in the AOD I took apart is hardened. I'm going to use just about every part in my 4R and get a 300M stub. Bullet proof enough for my power levels soon to be. Pics of the above parts on mine:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/medium/IMG_0935a.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/medium/IMG_0936a.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
That direct drum looks like what I should have been sent by this Bozo....
tbone
01-17-2013, 11:49 PM
The good news is that with the latest mods I did (less the hardened direct drum), the trans works pefectly, shifts the way I like and should last many, many years and miles.
mach1soldier
01-27-2013, 10:22 AM
Glad to hear you got it all worked out and you are happy with it. I need to learn how to build transmissions. It is the one thing I farm out but my favorite builder moved on.
burt ragio
01-27-2013, 10:58 AM
Wow, I hope your incident was one in a million. I talked with Alan at Dirty Dog Performance about my 4R70W. The man seemed very enthusiastic & knowledgable. I have read a few of his articles viewed him on youtube.
tbone
01-27-2013, 02:49 PM
He talks a good game. That's about it.
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