View Full Version : Watts link replacement
05crownsport
12-25-2012, 08:28 PM
I tried using the search function, but it's not working for me. I'm looking for the write up on R&R of the watts link. Any help directing me to that thread would be greatly appreciated.
SpartaPerformance
12-25-2012, 08:39 PM
Here is a write up for Watts replacement using out custom links but it's the same for stock units too
http://www.spartaperformance.com/wattsinstall.htm
05crownsport
12-25-2012, 08:48 PM
Thanks Paul! Merry Christmas to you and yours. I still owe you a beer...well now two!
Mr. Man
12-25-2012, 09:36 PM
Spray down the nut on the diff with some rustbuster and it's torqued to like 200lbs. It's a potential knucklebuster.
Blackened300a
12-26-2012, 06:58 AM
Thanks Paul! Merry Christmas to you and yours. I still owe you a beer...well now two!
I'll be happy to have a beer even though Tommy actually posted these directions, but my hand makes a special guest appearance in the 4th color pic down. :D
I did this on my back and the pivot nut is a PITA to remove in that position and even more of a pain to tighten. I never wanted to hear the click of a torque wrench more then when doing this swap. The air bags are a bit in the way when removing the bolts, but with the body jacked up and the rear hanging a bit, you can slide the bolts past the bag by prying the bag over slightly to one side. Also use your old watts link as a starting reference for reinstalling the air level sensor. The bar is cut to match the OEM location, but the OEM stamped aluminum can flex over time and the height may differ after the installation. I found my rear sat a little lower after the install and I matched the sensor dead on with the old watts link.
Like the instruction's say, the bolts will only go back one way. We tried to reinvent the wheel and find a easier way to put everything back together, but had no luck.
Total time start to finish was less then a hour on my back. If you don't have a airbag setup, but have a lift then it should go a lot smoother and easier.
fastblackmerc
12-26-2012, 07:48 AM
I replaced mine on my back also.
You'll need a long 1/2" breaker bar and assistant.... aka: a long pipe to fit over the end of the breaker bar.
Krytin
12-27-2012, 07:58 AM
It's a shame an impact gun won't fit in there!
Mebot
12-27-2012, 08:08 AM
Great reference and thanks for the timeliness on this post! I hope to get my Watts Link from Sparta installed sometime this winter.
05crownsport
12-27-2012, 08:24 AM
I'll be happy to have a beer even though Tommy actually posted these directions, but my hand makes a special guest appearance in the 4th color pic down. :D
I did this on my back and the pivot nut is a PITA to remove in that position and even more of a pain to tighten. I never wanted to hear the click of a torque wrench more then when doing this swap. The air bags are a bit in the way when removing the bolts, but with the body jacked up and the rear hanging a bit, you can slide the bolts past the bag by prying the bag over slightly to one side. Also use your old watts link as a starting reference for reinstalling the air level sensor. The bar is cut to match the OEM location, but the OEM stamped aluminum can flex over time and the height may differ after the installation. I found my rear sat a little lower after the install and I matched the sensor dead on with the old watts link.
Like the instruction's say, the bolts will only go back one way. We tried to reinvent the wheel and find a easier way to put everything back together, but had no luck.
Total time start to finish was less then a hour on my back. If you don't have a airbag setup, but have a lift then it should go a lot smoother and easier.
Oops...brain fart! I owe Tommy two beers...and one for you too Paul!
Thanks for the help! It's the final piece in the suspension upgrades as I already have the sway bars, control arms, shocks, and front springs. Next? Big brakes, and then....oh no, it'll have to be a surprise!
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