my version of the oil catch can...stay tuned.

[whitey]

Ok guys, ive done my reseach and ordered parts last night. Im going to build my version of the oil catch can, and will take pictures as i go, so far i have an ebay catch can coming in, all aluminum, with s drain plug and sight glass, some sintered stainless steel mesh, 10 micron, snd stainless steel mesh at 120 threads per square inch. Research is saying that the oil vapor can be 1 micron in size, however a mesh that small would interfere with air flow. I read for every 50 hp your motor puts out, about 1 CFM is going through the pcv valve. 5 micron allows around 7 cfm, and i didnt want to push the envelope on it, so i went with 10 micron mesh. The 120 mesh will be used as a prefilter and as a baffle. As soon as parts come in i will start assembly and take pictures on how to make it. Total cost will be around $70.

[fastblackmerc]

Ok guys, ive done my reseach and ordered parts last night. Im going to build my version of the oil catch can, and will take pictures as i go, so far i have an ebay catch can coming in, all aluminum, with s drain plug and sight glass, some sintered stainless steel mesh, 10 micron, snd stainless steel mesh at 120 threads per square inch. Research is saying that the oil vapor can be 1 micron in size, however a mesh that small would interfere with air flow. I read for every 50 hp your motor puts out, about 1 CFM is going through the pcv valve. 5 micron allows around 7 cfm, and i didnt want to push the envelope on it, so i went with 10 micron mesh. The 120 mesh will be used as a prefilter and as a baffle. As soon as parts come in i will start assembly and take pictures on how to make it. Total cost will be around $70.

What about the cost of your labor?

[whitey]

Labor is free, im not selling these, its for me. I personally enjoy designing and making things. The problem with oil cc are that everybody claims theirs are the best, with no proof or a list of the materials they use. Im going to make a superior cc, with proof of concept behind it.

[J-MAN]

Labor is free, im not selling these, its for me. I personally enjoy designing and making things. The problem with oil cc are that everybody claims theirs are the best, with no proof or a list of the materials they use. Im going to make a superior cc, with proof of concept behind it.

Oh.. not selling...just a tease then...:bigcry:

[breeze]

Ima need to make one too, my pcv pipe cracked so I'll be tuned in. Btw, what the purpose of these? Catch oil out the intake!?

[whitey]

Your pcv valve lets a lot of oil mist/vapor go into your intake, this causes oil to mix with your gas and some settles in your intake and eventually causes sludge in there. Oil lowers your octane level, and clogs up things. The oil catch can will catch the vapor and condense it inside of a catch can.

Im not here to make a profit, or sell these in competition with other vendors. Just trying to make a superior catch can with DIY instructions, if someone would need me to make them one, i could essentially make it for them. This site has always been helpful to me and im just trying to give back.

[cat in the hat]

How much oil do these cans catch in a n/a engine ? Are we talking about a tablespoon between oil changes, or a pint, or what ? (I understand that it will depend on the engine, driving habits etc, I'm just looking for a rough idea.)

[breeze]

I may make my own after reading into this

[whitey]

Cat: i seen your other post and the answer i dont know, its enough to make the inside of your intake look like crap, ill post up how much oil im catching with mine after its installed.

[tallpaul]

I'd like to buy one. Post some pics when you are done.

[whitey]

It'll be atleast a week before the stuff i ordered gets here.

[cat in the hat]

Cat: i seen your other post and the answer i dont know, its enough to make the inside of your intake look like crap, ill post up how much oil im catching with mine after its installed.

Thanks :)

It seems like there are a lot of guys here that are using these things, it would be great to hear how much they're actually catching with them.

[fastblackmerc]

This is what mine looks like:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Oil%20Catch%20Can/DSCN0447.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Oil%20Catch%20Can/DSCN0446.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Oil%20Catch%20Can/DSCN0443.jpg

I didn't want to reinvent the wheel so mine is made from the best catch can available... Draft 42 Designs stealth catch can. Uses hard lines, non-collapsible connections & stainless steel hose clamps.

If anyone is interested I can make them.

[Marauderjack]

Oil lowers your octane level, and clogs up things.

Oil actually slows the burn rate and effectively increases perceived octane!!:cool:

BTW, I have 245K miles without a catch can and mine still runs fine!! Have not opened the intake to see discoloration....no reason to??:shake:

You will trap a little vapor....mostly "lights" from the oil, fuel and water vapor will condense!! All are harmless to combustion and the residue in the intake won't hurt a thing unless you are worried about how it looks??:confused:

I'd like to see what you actually trap when you finish it.....GOOD LUCK!!:beer:

[breeze]

When I took my apart it wasn't bad at all.

[whitey]

Marauderjack: i disagree, if oil increases octane, than why wouldnt we be adding oil to our gas tank?

[fastblackmerc]

Marauderjack: i disagree, if oil increases octane, than why wouldnt we be adding oil to our gas tank?

This it true... "Oil actually slows the burn rate and effectively increases perceived octane!!"

The higher the octane the slower the gas "burns" in the combustion chamber.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

Effects of octane rating

Higher octane ratings correlate to higher activation energies: This being the amount of applied energy required to initiate combustion. Since higher octane fuels have higher activation energy requirements, it is less likely that a given compression will cause uncontrolled ignition, otherwise known as autoignition or detonation.

The compression ratio is directly related to power and to thermodynamic efficiency of an internal combustion engine (see Otto-cycle). Engines with higher compression ratios develop more area under the Otto-Cycle curve, thus they extract more energy from a given quantity of fuel.

During the compression stroke of an internal combustion engine, as the air / fuels mix is compressed its temperature rises (PV=nRT).

A fuel with a higher octane rating is less prone to auto-ignition and can withstand a greater rise in temperature during the compression stroke of an internal combustion engine without auto-igniting, thus allowing more power to be extracted from the Otto-Cycle.

If during the compression stroke the air / fuel mix reaches a temperature greater than the auto-ignition temperature of the fuel, the fuel self or auto-ignites. When auto-ignition occurs (before the piston reaches the top of its travel) the up-rising piston is then attempting to squeeze the rapidly expanding (exploding) fuel charge. This will usually destroy an engine quickly if allowed to continue.

There are two types of induction systems on internal combustion engines. Normally aspirated engine (air is sucked in using the engines pistons. Or, forced induction engines (See supercharged or turbocharged engines).

In the case of the normally aspirated engine, at the start of the compression stroke the cylinder air / fuel volume is very low, this translates into a low starting pressure. As the piston travels upward, a compression ratio of 10:1 in a normally aspirated engine will most likely not start auto-ignition. But 11:1 may. In a forced induction engine where at the start of the compression stroke the cylinder pressure is already raised (having a greater volume of air / fuel) Exp. 2 Bar (14.7Psi), the starting pressure or air / fuel volume would be 2 times that of the normally aspirated engine. This would translate into an effective compression ratio of 20:1 vs. 10:1 for the normally aspirated. This is why many forced induction engines have compression ratios in the 8:1 range.

Many high-performance engines are designed to operate with a high maximum compression, and thus demand fuels of higher octane. A common misconception is that power output or fuel efficiency can be improved by burning fuel of higher octane than that specified by the engine manufacturer. The power output of an engine depends in part on the energy density of the fuel being burnt. Fuels of different octane ratings may have similar densities, but because switching to a higher octane fuel does not add more hydrocarbon content or oxygen, the engine cannot develop more power.

However, burning fuel with a lower octane rating than that for which the engine is designed often results in a reduction of power output and efficiency. Many modern engines are equipped with a knock sensor (a small piezoelectric microphone), which sends a signal to the engine control unit, which in turn retards the ignition timing when detonation is detected. Retarding the ignition timing reduces the tendency of the fuel-air mixture to detonate, but also reduces power output and fuel efficiency. Because of this, under conditions of high load and high temperature, a given engine may have a more consistent power output with a higher octane fuel, as such fuels are less prone to detonation. Some modern high performance engines are actually optimized for higher than pump premium (93 AKI in the US). The 2001 - 2007 BMW M3 with the S54 engine is one such car. Car and Driver magazine tested a car using a dynamometer, and found that the power output increased as the AKI was increased up to approximately 96 AKI.

Most fuel filling stations have two storage tanks (even those offering 3 or 4 octane levels): those motorists who purchase intermediate grade fuels are given a mixture of higher and lower octane fuels. "Premium" grade is fuel of higher octane, and the minimum grade sold is fuel of lower octane. Purchasing 91 octane fuel (where offered) simply means that more fuel of higher octane is blended with commensurately less fuel of lower octane, than when purchasing a lower grade. The detergents and other additives in the fuel are often, but not always, identical.

[whitey]

I agree that it will slow the burn, and i completely understand octane levels, but i believe it is more to it then gas will burn more readily than oil. Oil doesnt burn as clean as gas, and will leave behind more carbon. We all know that carbon build up will harm a motors performance, and although some oil is burned off, a lot is not and will leave behind residue and mixed with the carbon left behind from the oil that did burn will cause things to gunk up. Theres no right or wrong way to look at it i guess, i prefer to not gunk up, use 93 octane, rather than gunk up at get maybe a 93.2 octane level. I retract my statement of "oil lowering octane levels," as i was wrong, but a clean engine is more effecient than a dirty one.

[Marauderjack]

Marauderjack: i disagree, if oil increases octane, than why wouldnt we be adding oil to our gas tank?

Been doing that for 15 years in everything I run......4 stroke outboard boat included!!:beer:

Half an ounce per gallon of TCW-3 "ashless" for the cats....also acts as an upper cylinder lubricant...kinda like when ya add Marvel Mystery Oil to you gas!!

Many advantages and NO disadvantages other than a little cost....and no it won't foul your plugs!!:shake:

285K miles on my last CV....245K miles on my MM now, 126K miles on my Dodge RAM truck and 1200 hours on the boat motor.......none of 'em use ANY oil between changes!!!:bows:

Old trick I learned from John Frederick who was with Wynn's FP for many years and it seems to have served me well.......but what do I know??:confused:

[whitey]

Tcw3 ashless is fine to add to your gas, i already admitted to being wrong about lowering the octane level.....BUT we are not talking about 2 stroke oil here in your intake, we are talking about oil for a 4 stroke motor being passed through the pcv as vapor...it is not ashless, it will gunk up your motor eventually, reducing performance.

[Marauderjack]

Tcw3 ashless is fine to add to your gas, i already admitted to being wrong about lowering the octane level.....BUT we are not talking about 2 stroke oil here in your intake, we are talking about oil for a 4 stroke motor being passed through the pcv as vapor...it is not ashless, it will gunk up your motor eventually, reducing performance.

I used straight 30 wt for 5 years and went to TCW-3 for "pour-ability" in the cold......John Frederick told me to use 30 wt non-detergent and said it won't hurt ANYTHING...even the cats!!:beer:

It was my idea to use the TCW-3......"ashless" was just more attractive but certainly not necessary!!:shake:

You have your ideas and I in no way wish to change your direction but some of what you are saying with great authority is just not right!!:o

Good Luck!!:up:

[whitey]

All im saying is that i personally use motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20, and i dont want that in my intake. If your claims are true, why not skip "adding" it to your gas and just use it as motor oil, it would automatically feed it through your intake for you?

[Marauderjack]

All im saying is that i personally use motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20, and i dont want that in my intake. If your claims are true, why not skip "adding" it to your gas and just use it as motor oil, it would automatically feed it through your intake for you?


One last comment and I am finished!!

The amount of oil vapor coming from the PCV is so insignificant (ppm) it would make ZERO difference in the engine!!

I am doing exactly what I intend to and will continue along my path!!;)

Good Luck with your project!!

[whitey]

One last comment and I am finished!!

The amount of oil vapor coming from the PCV is so insignificant (ppm) it would make ZERO difference in the engine!!

I am doing exactly what I intend to and will continue along my path!!;)

Good Luck with your project!!

:P....your no fun, after so many hours an engine runs, it does make a difference.

[Blown3.8]

Here is 174k mile mess. This is why DFI vehicles have problems, there is no gas spraying on the back of the valves.

[whitey]

Thanks for the picture Chris, thats the reason to have a oil cc

[Vortech347]

Meh, on N/A cars its not a big deal unless your piston rings are shot. Unless you are actually burning a ton of oil (blue smoke) and obvious oil levels decreasing I wouldn't worry about it.

Boosted cars it can cause detonation if your PCV system sucks.

[whitey]

the catch can will be in real soon, but the filters are saying jan. 7th, both are coming from california.....USPS FTW, UPS=slooowwww

[whitey]

Ok, so i got the catch can today and began working on its innards. Using 1/2" copper tubing to connect to the inlet and outlet fittings, jb weld is doing the trick. Also i removed all the "ricer" blue anodizing with oven cleaner, and some "nevrdull" to get it to a polished shine. I will post a full how to with pictures once this thing is done....waiting for the filters...damn ups.

[Spectragod]

This is what mine looks like:

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Oil%20Catch%20Can/DSCN0447.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Oil%20Catch%20Can/DSCN0446.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Oil%20Catch%20Can/DSCN0443.jpg

I didn't want to reinvent the wheel so mine is made from the best catch can available... Draft 42 Designs stealth catch can. Uses hard lines, non-collapsible connections & stainless steel hose clamps.

If anyone is interested I can make them.

Along the same lines...... I used 2 42 Draft Designs catch cans, XRP lines, added AN fittings to the valve covers, catch cans, intake tube etc., cnc'd a couple of brackets to mount the cans etc.............

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/rfrf5500/Marauder%20Cab/IMG_0430.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/rfrf5500/Marauder%20Cab/IMG_0439.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/rfrf5500/DTR%20%20shots/IMG_0288.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/rfrf5500/DTR%20%20shots/IMG_0433-1.jpg

[whitey]

Thats a clean looking motor you got there

[whitey]

pic of what it will look like when its done..

[whitey]

what it looked when i first got it...

[whitey]

Filter will be in today, what id like to know, is anybody still interested in how to make this? If not i wont waste my time to post up pics and do a write up...

[Blown3.8]

Filter will be in today, what id like to know, is anybody still interested in how to make this? If not i wont waste my time to post up pics and do a write up...
Post it up. I'm sure someone will find it useful.

[whitey]

It works...ill post up a how to in a brand new thread tonight called how to properly build a catch can

[fastblackmerc]

It works...ill post up a how to in a brand new thread tonight called how to properly build a catch can

How do you know it works? You got that much oil in the PCV system?

[whitey]

very light oil residue on the face of the drain plug after 15 miles, now how well its going to work, will take a few hundred miles...

[guspech750]

Yeah. Post it up. All info is good info.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[GAMike]

Don't know about y'all but I am a firm believer in using my right foot to keep everything clean :). To be fair, I am thinking about a catch can as well, but no immediate plans.