Oil viscosity?

[Slinkard49]

What viscosity and brand do you run in your Marauder. I know they recommend 5w-30. Is it okay to go with 0w-30 or is that a big no no? I plan on running full synthetic from here on out but will drive it quite a bit so I'm not wanting to go with racing oil like Royal Purple or anything like that. Thanks for your opinions, Mike

[fastblackmerc]

What viscosity and brand do you run in your Marauder. I know they recommend 5w-30. Is it okay to go with 0w-30 or is that a big no no? I plan on running full synthetic from here on out but will drive it quite a bit so I'm not wanting to go with racing oil like Royal Purple or anything like that. Thanks for your opinions, Mike

Actually the recommended weight is 5w20.

I run Mobile 1 0w30 in my MM with no problems.

Best thing to do is get an oil analysis . I use Blackstone Labs. The analysis will tell you about the internal condition of th4e engine and recommended oil change intervals.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

[Mike M]

Factory calls for 5W-20, I use 0W-30 Mobil 1 or 5W-30 Mobil1.

The 0W/5W is for cold start up, the "30" is what it runs at warmed up.

[rayjay]

Have always run the recommended oil up north, but will be switching to 5w-30 RP at next change.

[DOOM]

5W-20!

Says it right on the oil cap!

[SC Cheesehead]

Actually the recommended weight is 5w20.

I run Mobile 1 0w30 in my MM with no problems.

Best thing to do is get an oil analysis . I use Blackstone Labs. The analysis will tell you about the internal condition of th4e engine and recommended oil change intervals.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

+1 on oil analysis, the best way to determine service interval for your vehicle.

I run Motorcraft 5W-30 in mine since going S/C.

[MOTOWN]

I use Amsoil 5W 30 , well after I break in the new motor!

[RF Overlord]

Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 FTW...

Using 0W-30 will be fine. Using a good filter, such as the factory-recommended Motorcraft FL-820S, is more important than what brand of oil you use.

[Slinkard49]

Thanks guys I almost ran downstairs and checked the cap before I posted. I'm going to go with 0w-30 for this oil change and see how it goes. Never heard of an oil analysis but I'll definitely be looking into it now. I'll be using Mobil1 and all I use is Motorcraft filters even on my beater ranger. Thanks again for all the feedback.

[EMAS]

0-30 is fine, quicker flow on cold start and better protection when hot vs the 5-20 which was recommended for CAFE purposes.

[JOEMERC]

I use the Pennzoil Platinum also 5w30 ,switched from the Mobil 1 very happy with it so far no smoke on start up that we all seem to get once in awhile .and better in price also.I use Motor craft filter.

[TFB]

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in mine...

With a roots type blower that builds boost at low RPM, I wouldn't consider using less than a xW-30...

[Mike M]

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in mine...

With a roots type blower that builds boost at low RPM, I wouldn't consider using less than a xW-30...

The 0W-40 European blend is good stuff.

[rocky]

5W-20!

Says it right on the oil cap!

For some reason I heard that in the voice of Samuel L Jackson lol
Good point Doom


Sent from my iPhone 5

[Slinkard49]

Finally changed the oil and it was BLACK!!! Poor engine. I'm sending the oil out to Blackstone Labs as soon as their free test kit arrives. Glad I haven't been driving it much because of the Midwest weather.

[RoyLPita]

5W20 here. I used 5w30 full synthetic once.

[na svt]

Ford says to use 5w-20 for EPA reasons, not longevity. Every racer I know runs 5w-30 or 10w-30.

[fastblackmerc]

Won't hurt to run 0w30.

[na svt]

Won't hurt to run 0w30.

That is correct, but I would never run 5w-20 oil in an engine that is going to be driven hard. Also, according to John Mihovetz the lash adjusters are designed to work with 5w-30. That means using -20 will allow them to bleed down which effectively makes the cam's duration lower.

[TFB]

That is correct, but I would never run 5w oil in an engine that is going to be driven hard. Also, according to John Mihovetz the lash adjusters are designed to work with 5w-30. That means using -20 will allow them to bleed down which effectively makes the cam's duration lower.

Nope not so...

If that were true there would be valve train noise while running, as long as valve lash is maintained at zero, duration & lift are same no matter what oil is used...

BTW the 5W is a cold rating, which is still going to be 15-20x times thicker than a 30 or 40w when hot...

[na svt]

If that were true there would be valve train noise while running, as long as valve lash is maintained at zero, duration & lift are same no matter what oil is used...

This is not true and has been proven so by those who race these engines. They are bleeding down, not bottoming out. I've had discussions with my good friend John Tymensky and also Jon Mihovetz regarding this subject and both said that 5w-30 is what the lash adjusters were designed to use.

5-30 is also much better it reducing wear according to John Tymensky ( who happened to be a Ford Developmental Program engineer and also ran Modular Performance for many years).
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36607
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/45339-Crower-Cams?p=468629#post468629
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/45339-Crower-Cams?p=468691#post468691
http://mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=112712&highlight=oil+engineer+wear
http://www.synthetic1.com/amsoil-5w20-synthetic-motor-oil.htm

[Mike M]

The 5W does not stand for weight, it stands for winter. It doesn't matter how hard you run your engine, by the time your engine is up to normal operating temp he oil is now the second number (20 or 30 or 40).

[TFB]

OK it 5 Winter, it's still 15-20X times thicker when cold than when hot... A 0/5W-30 or 40 is exactly whats needed for a boosted, high HP street engine... Stock engines do just as well on 5W-20...

YOU mentioned nothing of racing engines, all sorts of issues arise when running at continual high RPM which is not happening in a street environment...

[Baaad GN]

Mabe I'm wrong but I though the weight was different, example 5 w 30, when it's cold the weight is 30, as the engine heats the oil thins out to say 5. It flow's a lot easier with heat.
Many years ago (1950's-60's) my father was a chemical engineer for Sinclair Oil Co. and was the Manager in their reseach labs in Harvey IL. All the various Chemical Companies where looking for a motor oil to run in the heavy equipment on the north slopes of Alaska when they started to drill for oil as the cold temps made it almost impossible to start the engines, they were actually building fires etc trying to keep these engines warm.
Mobile through chemistry developed the Mobil 1 where it would'nt be like tar in cold weather. The men at Sinclair tested Mobil 1 and found out how good it was, it worked great in motors down to 50 below and didn't burn like normal oil, another thing they found by running it in many test motors in the lab was ZERO wear!!!!! The non burning is why you see companies run this type of oil in turbo car's or cars with high heat issues. Most high performance turbo's had oil lines to the turbo for their bearings, regular oil car burn and screw up the bearings. The down fall was unless your motor was sealed well it wanted to leak so on old engines they all leaked a little. More and more companies have come out with similar products almost identical to moble 1. My father and many of the engineers he worked with never used anything other than mobile 1 so to this day that's the oil I choice for me.

[RF Overlord]

Oil doesn't have "weight", it has viscosity. The 5 and 30 numbers are the viscosity grade. A multi-grade oil like 5W-30 will behave like a straight 5-grade oil would at 0° and behave like a straight 30 would at 100°C. Some people mistake this as the oil thickening as the temperature rises, but in reality the oil just isn't thinning as much as it's base grade would in the same temp range.

In conventional oils this is accomplished by the addition of Viscosity Index Improvers. These are polymers which are tightly coiled when cold, like a Slinky, but which "relax" when heated and cause the oil to resist thinning. An unfortunate by-product is that they get broken up, or "sheared", with use, so a 5W-30 will eventually become a 5W-20 or even lower with prolonged use.

Synthetic oils require little or no VII, so they stay in grade longer. This is just one of the reasons you can leave synth oil in the crankcase for a longer interval. They also have superior cold flow characteristics, which makes them very useful in northern areas, such as mentioned by Baaad GN. This also makes them great at reducing start-up wear, which is calculated by some engineers to be as high as 40% of total wear in an engine.

As far as the "myth" that synthetic oil causes leaks, there are 2 answers. One is that in the very early days of synthetics, some of the additives used caused problems with the seal materials that were used at the time. Modern synthetic oils are fully compatible with all seal formulations.

The second answer is that if synthetic oil is introduced to an engine that has been maintained poorly, it can do significant cleaning, which removes sludge and exposes leaks that were being blocked by contaminants. If the seals and gaskets aren't too far gone, they will usually recover in the presence of fresh oil and the leaks will abate or stop.

[Mike M]

Oil doesn't have "weight", it has viscosity. The 5 and 30 numbers are the viscosity grade. A multi-grade oil like 5W-30 will behave like a straight 5-grade oil would at 0° and behave like a straight 30 would at 100°C. Some people mistake this as the oil thickening as the temperature rises, but in reality the oil just isn't thinning as much as it's base grade would in the same temp range.

In conventional oils this is accomplished by the addition of Viscosity Index Improvers. These are polymers which are tightly coiled when cold, like a Slinky, but which "relax" when heated and cause the oil to resist thinning. An unfortunate by-product is that they get broken up, or "sheared", with use, so a 5W-30 will eventually become a 5W-20 or even lower with prolonged use.

Synthetic oils require little or no VII, so they stay in grade longer. This is just one of the reasons you can leave synth oil in the crankcase for a longer interval. They also have superior cold flow characteristics, which makes them very useful in northern areas, such as mentioned by Baaad GN. This also makes them great at reducing start-up wear, which is calculated by some engineers to be as high as 40% of total wear in an engine.

As far as the "myth" that synthetic oil causes leaks, there are 2 answers. One is that in the very early days of synthetics, some of the additives used caused problems with the seal materials that were used at the time. Modern synthetic oils are fully compatible with all seal formulations.

The second answer is that if synthetic oil is introduced to an engine that has been maintained poorly, it can do significant cleaning, which removes sludge and exposes leaks that were being blocked by contaminants. If the seals and gaskets aren't too far gone, they will usually recover in the presence of fresh oil and the leaks will abate or stop.

That was spot on.

I own a Mobil 1 shop and I could not have explained it better.

[cat in the hat]

That was spot on.

I own a Mobil 1 shop and I could not have explained it better.

I almost clapped ;)

[Baaad GN]

Good answer!

[daddyusmaximus]

I just got some Penzoil Platinum the other day in preparation for my 1st change in my new (to me) Marauder. That's what I used in my old CVPI's SOHC 4.6. Thinking I may want to try Mobile 1 instead this time around. Is there a real benefit to the "high mileage" oils out there? My car has 110K on it. I read of a Mobile 1 high mileage oil once, but it's not at china-mart. Maybe they have it in the zone.

[MOTOWN]

Uggggggggg!:click:

[Turbov6Bryan]

Pensoil has too much paraffin in it, turns to bees wax
Mobile is a great oil, never had bad luck

I've been using napa full synthetic on my 5.0 and challenger, and a bottle of stp anti wear added to the marauder since it has 195k on it

[Crown Vicman]

Am I wrong for using 10w 40 and 10w 30?

[Red Rum]

I use 5w30 Mobile 1 extended life. And a Lucas engine oil additive. Also I run a Lucas fuel tank additive. To every full tank of Gas. Lucas oil additive is a must. For any motor. You buy 5 quarts of oil. And the Lucas to replace the 6 quart of oil. They sell it thick for regular motor oil. And a synthetic for all synthetic oils. I run the regular one. On my car with Mobile 1 synthetic. And my motor runs smooth and quiet. And feels brand new. Even if it is low Low miles. If you haven't tried the Lucas stuff. It is wonderful stuff. They have it for everything. Motor transmissions and rear ends even power steering. And on and on.

[Marauderjack]

What does the Lucas stuff offer that improves Mobil I 5W30??:confused:

[fastblackmerc]

I use 5w30 Mobile 1 extended life. And a Lucas engine oil additive. Also I run a Lucas fuel tank additive. To every full tank of Gas. Lucas oil additive is a must. For any motor. You buy 5 quarts of oil. And the Lucas to replace the 6 quart of oil. They sell it thick for regular motor oil. And a synthetic for all synthetic oils. I run the regular one. On my car with Mobile 1 synthetic. And my motor runs smooth and quiet. And feels brand new. Even if it is low Low miles. If you haven't tried the Lucas stuff. It is wonderful stuff. They have it for everything. Motor transmissions and rear ends even power steering. And on and on.


What does the Lucas stuff offer that improves Mobil I 5W30??:confused:

IMHO............

It's a well known fact that oil additives (any thing that is not in good quality, name brands oil) is not needed in any engine. Lookup "Bob the Oil Guy" on the internet for more information.

The first best thing to do for your engine is get an oil analysis done. I use Blackstone. The analysis will tell you about the wear inside your engine and will have recommendations for oil changes and oil weight.

My last Blackstone analysis showed nominal engine wear and I should change oil and filter at 6k. I change mine at every 5k so I'm good to go.

The second best thing for your engine is regular oil and filter changes. Using good quality oil, I prefer Mobile 1, and good quality filters, I use the Mortorcraft FL820S filter. The additives added to good quality oil will wear out over time just like antifreeze so regular changes will keep the correct additives working in your engine.

[Fastbob]

What does the Lucas stuff offer that improves Mobil I 5W30??:confused:Lucas additive has a special "wallet lightening" additive that improves fuel mileage due to less weight having to be moved down the road. It's a physics thing.

Quality motor oil has all the additives needed already in it. I use 5w20 Motorcraft oil in my stock Marauder and also in our 2014 Lincoln MKZ 3.7 AWD, with Motorcraft filters. I use 5w30 Mobil1 in my 2013 Ford F-150 Ecoboost. Your mileage may vary.:D

[Marauderjack]

I agree 110% with Jim and Fastbob but I wasn't gonna get as explanatory as they did!!:shake:

I wondered what benefits you might think you get from Lucas stuff??:confused:

I will say you should save your money for more important things!!:beer:

[fastblackmerc]

I agree 110% with Jim but I wasn't gonna get as explanatory as he did!!:shake:

I wondered what benefits you might think you get from Lucas stuff??:confused:

I will say you should save your money for more important things!!:beer:

Benefit = it makes you feel good

Good article on what additives are in your oil

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whats-in-your-motor-oil/

Motor Oil University:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

[nusbd]

be careful with too high a viscosity, lifters will go solid and hold valves open when you dont want them too! interference engine and all. the synthetics you gus discussed should all be fine.

[Red Rum]

Wow really my comment on this post were taken off. Wow totally uncalled for. But that is cool. Erase this one too. Somebody is on a power trip. Lol

[fastblackmerc]

Wow really my comment on this post were taken off. Wow totally uncalled for. But that is cool. Erase this one too. Somebody is on a power trip. Lol

My point is all the additives you motor will need are already in any good quality oil. There is no need to add anything else. Doing so just lightens your wallet. That being said........... do what you feel comfortable doing and spending money on.........

[Crown Vicman]

If you start using the lucus additives in your motor oil and fuel, how do you know if it is actually working? I tried two bottles of the Lucus power steering leak stop(which it guarantees to stop) and I still have a power steering leak.

[GetMeMyStogie]

I buy the made-in-Germany 0W-30 Castrol stuff whenever I find it on sale. I'll use it year-round, but if my stash is low I'll save it for use in winter.

[DrZ]

Original owner bone stock engine, I use Mobil 1 5w-20 extended with Mobil 1 filter 6k oil change intervals with 136500 on engine with no problems at all. I rev engine to redline on a regular basis since new.

[RF Overlord]

Pensoil has too much paraffin in it, turns to bees waxAn old wive's tale that refuses to die...

[Seneca]

An old wive's tale that refuses to die...

Can I get some honey with my wax? 😆 I agree after workingon emergency equipment for 10 years an the facilities using the cheapest oil on bid. With proper changes none of the oils will give you problems.. I still prefer amsoil for me vehicles

[FordNut]

Wife's car with 260k has always had Mobil1, 5w20 until about 200k, after that a 5qt bottle of 5w20 topped off with a little bit of 5w30. I figure it's getting loosened up a little bit. Oil changes every 5k.

[fordnut02]

Are you guys using Mobil 1 5w 20 Full synthetic ?

just changed mine with Full synthetic Mobil 1 and Motorcraft Filter thats all I use in my Fords

going to put a New Fuel Filter on and some Lucas fuel treatment in its good stuff

[RF Overlord]

and some Lucas fuel treatment in its good stuffDon't waste your money...use either Regane by Gumout or Techron by Chevron. Those are the only two that contain PEA (polyetheramine) which is the only really effective cleaner.

[FordNut]

Techron is the only one I've used.

[Turbov6Bryan]

An old wive's tale that refuses to die...

I speak from experience

Back 20 years ago, pulling sbc intake manifolds on work vans and the lifter valleys would be completely filled up with WAX. Literally leaving a impression of the bottom side of the intake in the valley.

Penzoil is the worst oil avail imho

The work vans were just like this:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3371743/all/Here's_some_sludge_for_ya.

Merry Christmas

[Fastbob]

I speak from experience

Back 20 years ago, pulling sbc intake manifolds on work vans and the lifter valleys would be completely filled up with WAX. Literally leaving a impression of the bottom side of the intake in the valley.

Penzoil is the worst oil avail imho

The work vans were just like this:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3371743/all/Here's_some_sludge_for_ya.

Merry ChristmasI used to see Ford engines like that in the mid 70s when I worked at a Ford dealer. Engines were full of sludge and usually needed to be replaced. Most had Pennzoil in them and they were not properly serviced. To this day, I wouldn't use Pennzoil if it were free and I know that today Pennzoil is not the same as way back when. I won't use Amszoil either cause it sounds too much like Pennzoil. I know this doesn't make much sense, but that is the way it is.

[Siege]

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36607

I remember this thread from years ago and it is the primary reason I run 10W-30 in mine.

Relevant quotes from that link:

Please do not put 5w-20 or less into a mod motor. Please.

I spent about 10 years doing engine development with Ford Motor Company, including being the systems engineer on the 2003 Aviator and 2005 Mustang V8s.

5W-30 is probably a good oil for the street with mixed temperatures.

I'm not saying that 5W-20 is not going to instantly do damage. But suffice it to say I've seen and been involved in a LOT of development on these motors, and my personal opinion is that I would never run 5W-20 in a modular motor. Regarding your "spec oil" comment, you need to look at what else governs this recommendation.

I would not run 5W-20 in ANY stock mod motor. This is especially true in 4v motors, but applies to all of them in one form or another.

My *PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION* would be to run a good fresh synthetic in the 5w-30 to 10W-40 range. And keep an eye on oil temps and oil pressure variations. The oil viscosity might slightly change the VCT's transient behaviors, but I wouldn't expect significant issues. I admit that I've never tested or seen testing relating to oils thicker than 10W-40, so I can't comment on that.

I've seen the dyno testing. I've probably looked at several hundred engines disassembled and spread out on inspection tables. And I've been involved in testing to resolve issues where varying the oil viscosity was part of the test DOE. Trading a very small FE improvement in exchange for a large durability safety margin is not something I'm interested in doing.


More food for thought is that the modular engines from 1996-2000 were all recommended to use 5W-30 from the factory. With no mechanical changes to warrant it, Ford began recommending 5W-20 starting in 2001.

This lends credence that it was a decision made for fuel economy reasons instead of engine durability.

[BAD MERC]

I use ONLY Valvoline 5W-20 and a Trans Dapt filter relocation with a Bosch Distance Plus filter.

[alec2538]

I've been running Amsoil 5w40 full syn for the last few thousand miles. Before I was running Amsoil 5w20 full syn. It seems to idle quieter with the 5w40 in it, and I haven;t noticed any big drops on economy. The 5w40 has extra detergent in it as well, according to my Amsoil rep.

I run 5,000 mile intervals. At 185k, and 4k on this oil change, the oil is still golden brown and the level hasn't moved. I love a tight motor!