It is time...

[Blk04MM]

Lately I've been all over the place with this car since i started DD it. small mishaps here and there and wanting to mod it but it's ok so If nothing else happens. I'll be in the market for a cobra short/long block.
I said screw the other stuff (headers, stall, etc..) and just get the motor built if the price is in the right range. My motor is ok and I've seen marauder motors go pretty far but fact is not every motor is the same so I might as well build it while I have the money.

Now here's where I'm stuck thinking

Will my accessories go on the cobra long/short block or will I have to shell out way more cash to get it up and running.

Is it cheaper to just rebuild my motor?

Unless I come across a 30-04 full swap then I won't be boosted right away I'll get it tuned for nitrous to play

Maybe I'll be able to sell from my motor when I don't need/use if its in good shape to make some cash back.

[SC Cheesehead]

Lately I've been all over the place with this car since i started DD it. small mishaps here and there and wanting to mod it but it's ok so If nothing else happens. I'll be in the market for a cobra short/long block.
I said screw the other stuff (headers, stall, etc..) and just get the motor built if the price is in the right range. My motor is ok and I've seen marauder motors go pretty far but fact is not every motor is the same so I might as well build it while I have the money.

Now here's where I'm stuck thinking

Will my accessories go on the cobra long/short block or will I have to shell out way more cash to get it up and running.

Is it cheaper to just rebuild my motor?

Unless I come across a 30-04 full swap then I won't be boosted right away I'll get it tuned for nitrous to play

Maybe I'll be able to sell from my motor when I don't need/use if its in good shape to make some cash back.

You'll want to swap out the front skirt on the Cobra motor with the OEM MM unit or else you'll have to notch the frame to get clearance.

Question, if you're staying NA, why the Cobra block?

[Blk04MM]

You'll want to swap out the front skirt on the Cobra motor with the OEM MM unit or else you'll have to notch the frame to get clearance.

Question, if you're staying NA, why the Cobra block?

Hoping not to be NA for too long as well as N02 in the mean time. I thought it'll be better to have the cobra block or am I wrong.

By all means correct me. I'm just bored wit what I have and have some room to play but my miles say "no go"

[Vortech347]

If you throw in a Cobra short/long block you will be losing 1.5 points of compression. Your N/A power will drop 20-30 and your torque will too across the entire RPM range.

[Blk04MM]

If you throw in a Cobra short/long block you will be losing 1.5 points of compression. Your N/A power will drop 20-30 and your torque will too across the entire RPM range.

Well that idea failed ...

Thanks for the info

[SC Cheesehead]

The stock engine's good for at least 450 rwhp, the stock block with forged internals should handle 700+.

You wanna spend bucks you can always go with an MMR or Aluminator

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0806_ford_racing_aluminat or_crate_engine_install/viewall.html

How much are you planning to spend? If you're talking abuilt motor, better plan on $10K minimum.

[Blk04MM]

The stock engine's good for at least 450 rwhp, the stock block with forged internals should handle 700+.

You wanna spend bucks you can always go with an MMR or Aluminator

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0806_ford_racing_aluminat or_crate_engine_install/viewall.html

How much are you planning to spend? If you're talking abuilt motor, better plan on $10K minimum.



Hmmmm The MMR forged rebuild & MMR street mod options don't seem bad. Would I lose compression N/A power and torque with either?

[CBT]

MMR 5.0 STROKER Street Mod 1000S (up to 1000 RWHP) 2V, 3V or 4V
"The Aluminator Shortblock Killer"


.....yums.....

[Blk04MM]

MMR 5.0 STROKER Street Mod 1000S (up to 1000 RWHP) 2V, 3V or 4V
"The Aluminator Shortblock Killer"


.....yums.....


That does look damn good but nowhere in my sights YET.

[SC Cheesehead]

Hmmmm The MMR forged rebuild & MMR street mod options don't seem bad. Would I lose compression N/A power and torque with either?

All depends on the pistons. If you're getting a built motor, you can spec a desired compression ratio.

FWIW, what you're going to spend on a crate motor, you could do an Eaton swap and be farther ahead, RWHP-wise.

[Blk04MM]

All depends on the pistons. If you're getting a built motor, you can spec a desired compression ratio.

FWIW, what you're going to spend on a crate motor, you could do an Eaton swap and be farther ahead, RWHP-wise.

I know but I'm at 154k on the clock. If I boost this one then its gone and I'll have a eaton kit with no motor.

[SC Cheesehead]

I know but I'm at 154k on the clock. If I boost this one then its gone and I'll have a eaton kit with no motor.

Gotcha.


Here's another option, may be worth considering if you plan to stay NA for a while.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-aluminator-shortblock-na.html

[ctrlraven]

Buy my pistons, find yourself a Teskid block, get some forged rods and a cobra crank. There is your forged BORED 5.0/5.1 shortblock with low compression for boost later down the road.

Only reason why I will not use the pistons is I do not plan on ever being boosted, going for a heavy breathing, high compression, bored out NA.