View Full Version : Strutmaster Spring Conversion Kits
sflrainmaker01
04-12-2013, 12:14 PM
So, I have been checking around for Spring Conversion Kits. I saw Strutmaster, who says they use Eibach springs. The don't list a Marauder kit on their site, but, the guy said he can put one together that would include a more Marauder specific variable rate spring and a new set of Monroe Severe Duty shocks (since the car has been draggin' for so long he said the stock shocks are probably toast). Sounds pretty good to me. The only problem is that I will be having a "rainbow" of colors under the car...red springs, billet control arms and yellow shocks.....:rolleyes:
Mr. Man
04-12-2013, 01:25 PM
"I'll put a kit together for you" is like trying to harness lightning in a bottle. If you go this route make sure you know what the return policy is and have it in writing.
Eibach used to make a front lowering kit but they discontinued it a few years back.
There are a few threads that were posted recently on this subject. You might want to check into them.
justbob
04-12-2013, 01:33 PM
I will never understand even the thought of doing this.. You do know you are seriously lowering whatever resale value you will have when that time comes right?
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
jb513
04-12-2013, 04:55 PM
So, I have been checking around for Spring Conversion Kits. I saw Strutmaster, who says they use Eibach springs. The don't list a Marauder kit on their site, but, the guy said he can put one together that would include a more Marauder specific variable rate spring and a new set of Monroe Severe Duty shocks (since the car has been draggin' for so long he said the stock shocks are probably toast). Sounds pretty good to me. The only problem is that I will be having a "rainbow" of colors under the car...red springs, billet control arms and yellow shocks.....:rolleyes:
I did put something together for you on your original post.
sflrainmaker01
04-12-2013, 08:22 PM
I will never understand even the thought of doing this.. You do know you are seriously lowering whatever resale value you will have when that time comes right?
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Yes, possibly, but at the same time, I need to get the car on the road. I am afraid with some of the neglect the car may have had, I don't want to take the chance to have air suspension installed just to find more problems and then more $$. I can do the springs now and then eventually buy the air suspension kit and install it myself later and probably would end up spending the same amount of $$ as having the shop start from scratch now. I just don't know what else the car will need and I am setting aside any extra dough for overdue maintenence etc....
But, I get it.
lji372
04-12-2013, 08:42 PM
I did them once on a Lincoln continental. Worked great!! But were already proven b4 I did it. Good luck:beer:
fastblackmerc
04-12-2013, 08:43 PM
Yes, possibly, but at the same time, I need to get the car on the road. I am afraid with some of the neglect the car may have had, I don't want to take the chance to have air suspension installed just to find more problems and then more $$. I can do the springs now and then eventually buy the air suspension kit and install it myself later and probably would end up spending the same amount of $$ as having the shop start from scratch now. I just don't know what else the car will need and I am setting aside any extra dough for overdue maintenence etc....
But, I get it.
The air ride system is very simple. Air compressor, 2 air bags, lines and the ride height sensor.
Have you checked any of it out?
Could just be the rod has popped off the sensor... or the compressor is bad....
Marauderjack
04-13-2013, 03:09 AM
The car was engineered with the air suspension for a reason......removing it will not only reduce value but also compromise handling.....IMHO!!:eek:
sflrainmaker01
04-13-2013, 08:55 AM
The air ride system is very simple. Air compressor, 2 air bags, lines and the ride height sensor.
Have you checked any of it out?
Could just be the rod has popped off the sensor... or the compressor is bad....
Ok. Ya'll are talking me into looking into this. Being that bags are most likely shot (since the old owner drove it around with the bags not working), what would be a good starting point to see what all I am dealing with. Keep in mind, that my time will be limited over the next three weeks (no days off, maybe a bit of time off). I know I can check the fuse and the switch in the trunk, but what else? Power to the compressor, I suppose? Isn't the compressor under the intake?
fastblackmerc
04-13-2013, 09:15 AM
Ok. Ya'll are talking me into looking into this. Being that bags are most likely shot (since the old owner drove it around with the bags not working), what would be a good starting point to see what all I am dealing with. Keep in mind, that my time will be limited over the next three weeks (no days off, maybe a bit of time off). I know I can check the fuse and the switch in the trunk, but what else? Power to the compressor, I suppose? Isn't the compressor under the intake?
Bags may not be shot.
First thing I'd check is the ride height sensor. Located in the Watts link. The rod should be connected at both ends.
Make sure the switch is turned on in the trunk.
Next check the air compressor. It's under the air filter housing / washer tank. They have a habit of not working after being submerged in water that collects in the bucket it sits in. Drill more drainage holes to prevent this.
See if you have power to the pump.
Then check the fuses, circuit breaker.
Where in SW Fla. are you?
sflrainmaker01
04-13-2013, 10:22 AM
The drivers side had some (at least) moderate cracking or dry rot I noticed when I tried to fix the left rear tire. If they are any good I would be suprised. The sensor in the Watts link? This car has an aftermarket link. Or did you mean attached to the center mounting point of the Watts link?
Fort Myers, aka Dunk City! :banana:
justbob
04-13-2013, 10:47 AM
If I recall, there is also a way to pump air into the system near the compressor to check the bags.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
marauder410
04-13-2013, 11:07 AM
i installed sunoc heavy duty spring kit on my rear with monroe severe's on rear and i my opinion my MM rides better without the air suspension
also converting it to spring will niot lower the value of your car thats a bunch of non sense
fastblackmerc
04-13-2013, 12:11 PM
The drivers side had some (at least) moderate cracking or dry rot I noticed when I tried to fix the left rear tire. If they are any good I would be suprised. The sensor in the Watts link? This car has an aftermarket link. Or did you mean attached to the center mounting point of the Watts link?
Fort Myers, aka Dunk City! :banana:
The ride height sensor is or should be attached to the Watts link.... after market or OEM.
fastblackmerc
04-13-2013, 12:12 PM
i installed sunoc heavy duty spring kit on my rear with monroe severe's on rear and i my opinion my MM rides better without the air suspension
also converting it to spring will niot lower the value of your car thats a bunch of non sense
Why non sense?
If you de-content the car you lower the value.....
Following your "logic", replacing the 4.6l 4V with a 4.6l 2V the car still has the same value?????? Non sense!
sflrainmaker01
04-13-2013, 12:20 PM
i installed sunoc heavy duty spring kit on my rear with monroe severe's on rear and i my opinion my MM rides better without the air suspension
also converting it to spring will niot lower the value of your car thats a bunch of non sense
I haven't totally ruled a conversion out, but what is sunoc? The Strutmaster kit has the Monroe severe also.
sflrainmaker01
04-13-2013, 12:22 PM
The ride height sensor is or should be attached to the Watts link.... after market or OEM.
I will do a Google search to see what it looks like and see if I can find it. Maybe that is the problem.....
justbob
04-13-2013, 01:21 PM
also converting it to spring will niot lower the value of your car thats a bunch of non sense
Most people, such as myself, will catch this on inspection and instantly walk away no matter the price. Why you ask? Our first thought is, what else did they half ass or cheap out on? Less buyers equals lower value.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
fastblackmerc
04-13-2013, 01:21 PM
I will do a Google search to see what it looks like and see if I can find it. Maybe that is the problem.....
This is what it looks like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-OEM-AIR-SUSPENSION-SENSOR-HOUSING-8W1Z-5359-A-/230693199904?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACrown+Victoria&hash=item35b662e020#ht_2000wt_ 1320
Could be whomever installed the Metco Watts link never reinstalled it.
sflrainmaker01
04-13-2013, 02:46 PM
This is what it looks like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-OEM-AIR-SUSPENSION-SENSOR-HOUSING-8W1Z-5359-A-/230693199904?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACrown+Victoria&hash=item35b662e020#ht_2000wt_ 1320
Could be whomever installed the Metco Watts link never reinstalled it.
Thanks! So, with that being missing/disconnected, would that make the air suspension completely inop?
Also, are most of these air suspension parts interchangeable between the Lincoln, Merc and Crown Vics for 2003 and up?
jb513
04-13-2013, 03:45 PM
Once again... Sorry about the 1. 1. 1.
REMOVAL
Turn off suspension switch in trunk.
Jack up rear of vehicle and put on jackstands underneath the frame...not the rear axle! Rear suspension should hang.
With all the weight and tension off the rear axle, puncture the air bladder with a lockblade knife and twist (you can control the amount of air escaping this way).
Remove 2-pin connector from solenoid on air spring. Remove air line from solenoid also.
Go in between the top of tire and fender lip where the top of the spring goes through the upper brace and remove lock clip.
If bottom of air spring has not yet unhooked from axle housing, use a pry bar and separate it from the perch.
If the spring has not yet fallen out, just pull on it and remove.
INSTALLATION
Put top of spring in its mounting area and connect air line and solenoid connector. When installing a "non-inflated" air spring, use a floor jack or something similar to raise the rear axle so the bottom of the spring will drop into place on the axle.
* MAKE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT STEPS EXACTLY *
Turn suspension switch back on and turn the ignition to the ON position.
Push down metal tab and disconnect height sensor on its bottom mount. Collapse or push sensor together.
NOTE: This makes the module "think" the car is low, and the module will signal the compressor to come on.
After compressor comes on for about 15 seconds (no wrinkles in spring), connect the sensor back to its ball stud.
IMMEDIATELY get up and turn the suspension switch OFF!
Turn the ignition switch off as well.
Install lockclip back on top of air spring.
Take vehicle off of jackstands.
Crank up car and let the compressor run until it stops.
You're all done and you just saved yourself a bunch of money!
sflrainmaker01
04-14-2013, 07:36 AM
Once again... Sorry about the 1. 1. 1.
REMOVAL
Turn off suspension switch in trunk.
Jack up rear of vehicle and put on jackstands underneath the frame...not the rear axle! Rear suspension should hang.
With all the weight and tension off the rear axle, puncture the air bladder with a lockblade knife and twist (you can control the amount of air escaping this way).
Remove 2-pin connector from solenoid on air spring. Remove air line from solenoid also.
Go in between the top of tire and fender lip where the top of the spring goes through the upper brace and remove lock clip.
If bottom of air spring has not yet unhooked from axle housing, use a pry bar and separate it from the perch.
If the spring has not yet fallen out, just pull on it and remove.
INSTALLATION
Put top of spring in its mounting area and connect air line and solenoid connector. When installing a "non-inflated" air spring, use a floor jack or something similar to raise the rear axle so the bottom of the spring will drop into place on the axle.
* MAKE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT STEPS EXACTLY *
Turn suspension switch back on and turn the ignition to the ON position.
Push down metal tab and disconnect height sensor on its bottom mount. Collapse or push sensor together.
NOTE: This makes the module "think" the car is low, and the module will signal the compressor to come on.
After compressor comes on for about 15 seconds (no wrinkles in spring), connect the sensor back to its ball stud.
IMMEDIATELY get up and turn the suspension switch OFF!
Turn the ignition switch off as well.
Install lockclip back on top of air spring.
Take vehicle off of jackstands.
Crank up car and let the compressor run until it stops.
You're all done and you just saved yourself a bunch of money!
Very cool, thanks!
fastblackmerc
04-14-2013, 08:01 AM
Thanks! So, with that being missing/disconnected, would that make the air suspension completely inop?
Also, are most of these air suspension parts interchangeable between the Lincoln, Merc and Crown Vics for 2003 and up?
Yes the system would not work because it thinks it's already at the right height.
I believe the parts maybe the same as the Ford Shop Manual makes no distinction between the Marauder, CV or GM.
sflrainmaker01
04-14-2013, 08:32 AM
Yes the system would not work because it thinks it's already at the right height.
I believe the parts maybe the same as the Ford Shop Manual makes no distinction between the Marauder, CV or GM.
So, when people talk about air spring rates (or regular springs for that matter) for the Marauder, are they really for different applications (CV, GM etc) or just vary by manufacturer?
jb513
04-14-2013, 12:29 PM
Bags are all the same across the board as far as Ford vehicals are concerned. A Town Cars bags can go on a Grand Marquis and the Marquis bags can go on a Marauder. The things that set them apart are, Shocks and Watts link or no watts link, wheels and tires, roll bars and various other things but, the air bags remain the same.
Blk Mamba
04-14-2013, 01:18 PM
This is how you test the air bags, if you have a bad compressor, or, connection.
fastblackmerc
04-14-2013, 04:28 PM
So, when people talk about air spring rates (or regular springs for that matter) for the Marauder, are they really for different applications (CV, GM etc) or just vary by manufacturer?
Spring rates are for the actual springs.
lifespeed
04-14-2013, 08:44 PM
Bags are all the same across the board as far as Ford vehicals are concerned. A Town Cars bags can go on a Grand Marquis and the Marquis bags can go on a Marauder. The things that set them apart are, Shocks and Watts link or no watts link, wheels and tires, roll bars and various other things but, the air bags remain the same.
Couldn't be more wrong. There are different spring rates for these vehicles, at least three that I am aware of. If you have any interest in maintaining the car's performance you want the original air springs, not a "close enough" substitute. Marauder air springs have a cream-colored top piston and black bottom piston.
The aftermarket air springs I have personally used were different from OEM, despite the claim they were for the Marauder application. They aren't on my car anymore . . .
lifespeed
04-14-2013, 08:48 PM
Spring rates are for the actual springs.
Ford makes different air spring rates for the Panther platform. They don't compare numerically to coil springs because air springs have a rising rate.
Comin' in Hot
04-14-2013, 09:59 PM
This is how you test the air bags, if you have a bad compressor, or, connection.
great info
sflrainmaker01
04-15-2013, 07:08 AM
Thanks for all the great posts and info. Been out of town for a few days. So, tonight, after work, I will jack up the car and see what is going on under there now that I am more informed.
lifespeed
04-15-2013, 04:49 PM
Thanks for all the great posts and info. Been out of town for a few days. So, tonight, after work, I will jack up the car and see what is going on under there now that I am more informed.
While I would not normally recommend installing used rubber parts (air springs), I do have a set of used OEM if you have more time than money. It is only about a 1.5 hour job once you figure out to put your hand through the access hole in the middle of the rear frame crossbrace. :P
As others have pointed out, however, it is just as likely to be leaking at the compressor end.
sflrainmaker01
04-15-2013, 08:36 PM
While I would not normally recommend installing used rubber parts (air springs), I do have a set of used OEM if you have more time than money. It is only about a 1.5 hour job once you figure out to put your hand through the access hole in the middle of the rear frame crossbrace. :P
As others have pointed out, however, it is just as likely to be leaking at the compressor end.
Thanks for the offer. Read my "amazing" thread. I will let you know.....
lifespeed
04-15-2013, 09:42 PM
Thanks for the offer. Read my "amazing" thread. I will let you know.....
LOL. I guess we all thought you would have checked the switch in the trunk already. :D
sflrainmaker01
04-15-2013, 10:01 PM
LOL. I guess we all thought you would have checked the switch in the trunk already. :D
Embarrassing, I know! :o BUT, after listening to the previous owner rant about how it hasn't been working for awhile etc etc, who would have thought?:awe: That is one reason I brought it home instead of straight to the shop to redo suspension right away. To be lucky, I was hoping there could have been only a bad sensor or something.
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