redline's water wetter

[whitey]

So in 70* weather, my car is running around 200*, was looking to run around 190*, would water wetter work? Anybody use this stuff for a dd? Anyone with experience with it? Thanks.

[fastblackmerc]

So in 70* weather, my car is running around 200*, was looking to run around 190*, would water wetter work? Anybody use this stuff for a dd? Anyone with experience with it? Thanks.

Change to a 180 degree thermostat or better yet to a Reische Performance 170 degree thermostat.

http://reischeperformance.com/#anchor

Also see this from their website:

Additional Cooling System Improvements

"It is important that the fan settings in your tune are set up properly to see the best possible heat dissipation from your cooling system. Otherwise a low temp thermostat will only be effective when the vehicle is moving because heat cannot be removed unless there is air passing through the radiator. Typically with our 170° thermostat installed your cooling fan(s) should be set to turn on between 184-190° and shut off between 176-182°, if not then re-flash your tune with the appropriate settings.

Water transfers heat more effectively than antifreeze so we recommend using the lowest concentration of antifreeze possible for your climate along with a product like Redline Water Wetter. Just make sure you have enough antifreeze in your coolant to keep it from freezing in the winter and always run no less than 20% in a street car. We do not recommend adding Water Wetter to coolant that is more than 40% antifreeze."

[Mike M]

It was about 93 here the other day and my car was 181 degrees.

I have a 170 degree thermostat and I run water wetter.

[napolitano]

I run it also and the 170 stat. Highest temps I saw here in fl in summer were 190.
I was warned by my mechanic friend that running this way would result in a shorter life of cooling components. Also he said cars were designed to run at certain temp ranges from factory.
But so far no problems from my mm.
Just food for thought.

[Marauderjack]

Water Wetters don't do much with anti-freeze solutions and will clog up your "Catch Can"!!!:eek:

[cat in the hat]

I always thought Water Wetter was more for the track, so you wouldn't have a 300 foot antifreeze slick if something lets go.

[napolitano]

Yeah cause your supposed to use water wetter and just water.
No antifreeze is needed with that stuff.

[Mike M]

I only run about 20% antifreeze or less in my system for lubrication and water and water wetter.

[cat in the hat]

I only run about 20% antifreeze or less in my system for lubrication and water wetter.

Interesting ! Does this decrease your running temperatures ? What temp does that mix it freeze at ?

[Mike M]

Where I live I don't worry about the cold too much. But if you live where there is a winter, you just need to do a refill every fall.

[lifespeed]

Depending on what you are trying to do, there may not be a big benefit to running a colder thermostat and fan setting. A colder engine does not run as efficiently.

If you are pushing the limit with high compression, boost, and/or advanced ignition timing with colder plugs then a cooler engine will allow you to push a little further without detonation.

But on a stock engine I don't think the payback from a colder T-stat is that significant.

[babbage]

But on a stock engine I don't think the payback from a colder T-stat is that significant.

You mean a stock engine with a poor cooling design? (like all 03/04 MM's have) Warped heads, dropped seats, other major damage... can all be traced to a dead end for coolant, cyl 8 drivers side firewall. Colder T-Stat will help prevent this.

[ctrlraven]

Whitey, when was the last time the coolant has been replaced? If it's been more than 24 months, get the coolant system flushed and change the t-stat to a 180 degree one.

As far as the warm days we have had here so far I have been running 188-193 with a 180 t-stat and had my coolant flushed last year. The factory t-stat is 195 and that's only when it just starts to open, temps have to be higher for it to fully open.

Redline's water wetter really does nothing. I've used it before and saw no difference in temps.

[lifespeed]

You mean a stock engine with a poor cooling design? (like all 03/04 MM's have) Warped heads, dropped seats, other major damage... can all be traced to a dead end for coolant, cyl 8 drivers side firewall. Colder T-Stat will help prevent this.

There are different opinions on this. If you believe cylinder 8 is an issue the solution is not to overcool the motor, rather it would be to do the rear cooling mod.

[Vortech347]

Depending on what you are trying to do, there may not be a big benefit to running a colder thermostat and fan setting. A colder engine does not run as efficiently.

If you are pushing the limit with high compression, boost, and/or advanced ignition timing with colder plugs then a cooler engine will allow you to push a little further without detonation.

But on a stock engine I don't think the payback from a colder T-stat is that significant.

Agree'd. In fact mostly stock N/A Mod motors usually put down their best dyno numbers when they are 200-205ish.

[ctrlraven]

Along with a tune, installing one stage colder plugs and 180 t-stat is just smart if you want to get the most out the tune.

[fastblackmerc]

Along with a tune, installing one stage colder plugs and 180 t-stat is just smart if you want to get the most out the tune.

As long as you have a tune that is optimized for them.

[whitey]

Well, i just bought some of lucas oil's 'water wetter' replica(i like lucas products, just personal preference) and what i did was drain out the bottom of the radiator, until the tank was empty. My old coolant was saying it was a lot of antifreeze and not a lot of water....70/30 maybe?. So i refilled my tank from the crossover tube with distilled water and added the lucas product.

Test drive: took it out, got it up to about 198*, floored it and temps went up to 207 with the heater on full blast. Did this twice, then the third time it got to 204*. As im normally driving, around 65mph temp is anywhere between 198 and 204, jumps around 6*....is this normal?

[sailsmen]

Year, make, model and mods.

[ctrlraven]

Well, i just bought some of lucas oil's 'water wetter' replica(i like lucas products, just personal preference) and what i did was drain out the bottom of the radiator, until the tank was empty. My old coolant was saying it was a lot of antifreeze and not a lot of water....70/30 maybe?. So i refilled my tank from the crossover tube with distilled water and added the lucas product.

Test drive: took it out, got it up to about 198*, floored it and temps went up to 207 with the heater on full blast. Did this twice, then the third time it got to 204*. As im normally driving, around 65mph temp is anywhere between 198 and 204, jumps around 6*....is this normal?

Are you looking at Cylinder Head Temp (CHT) or Water Temp (WT°) on your scan gauge?

[whitey]

water temp chris.

my mm: 2003 300A 144k miles,...j-mod, zack tune 2.0, steeda u/d pulleys, jlt cai, second set of cats removed.

[sailsmen]

No, not normal, is your rad fan coming on? Turn on the a/c and see if it comes on.

[whitey]

ill check tommorrow sailsmen, im pretty sure its working, ive had it not work before and it started overheating and stops greater than 20 seconds. red lights, stop signs, highway speeds, city speeds.....it stays between 198 and 202 most of the time, 204 sometimes, and 197 sometimes. to me it just seems odd to have a 6-7 degree fluctuation in temp, for no real reason....am i just being paranoid?

[ctrlraven]

Well if you have a stock t-stat it only starts to open up at 195.

But still that's a good bit higher than mine with having almost the same mods besides me having a 180 t-stat and a coolant flush just last year. Even sitting at a long light or pushing it on the highway recently mine never went past 193. Normal for me is 188-193 just depending if I am moving or sitting still for a period of time.

[sailsmen]

Those temps on a properly tuned car should not cause any damage, however they indicate something ain't right. What ever ain't right usually gets more wrong.

Also check that your rad fins are not blocked and that you have the plastic air dam.
This is a site with the best burp procedure and other good cooling info.
http://reischeperformance.com/refill.html

[whitey]

Ok, in the process of following the burping procedure now, tomorrow morning i will fill up fluid the final time. I will report back tommorow after work. Chris, what should i be looking for CHT wise?

[ctrlraven]

Ok, in the process of following the burping procedure now, tomorrow morning i will fill up fluid the final time. I will report back tommorow after work. Chris, what should i be looking for CHT wise?
CHT should usually read on average 2-3 degrees higher than WT, at least for me that's the average I've seen over the past 4-5 years I've had my scan gauge.

[whitey]

Well its burped, and couldn't take anymore coolant. Im showing steady 198-200 city, and i floored it on the highway and the temp went down to 197....usually it goes up to 202-204 then. Im happy with it now. Thanks for the help guys and that link is the best yet...should be stickied.