thermostat and water pump maintenance

[lifespeed]

I am replacing the water pump and thermostat due to some issues with accessory noise, not to mention old age and high mileage.

What have other users found with regards to the condition of the thermostat housing? Would it be wise to order a new housing, or just money thrown away? In the past on other cars I have found these would corrode over time and needed replacing. I have changed the coolant every 2 - 3 years in this engine.

[ctrlraven]

Are you sure its the water pump and not something else?

If you change the water pump, get an EMP Stewart Warner WP. You might as well upgrade instead of staying stock.

The t-stat housing should be fine. I've got over 190k miles on my stock WP and t-stat housing and no problems. Coolant exchange was done about 7 months ago, tech said everything looked good and clean.

[lifespeed]

The tensioner and idler were a problem, already fixed. Alternator is likely an issue too. I'm going to change the water pump just on general principle. It has a bearing, and I'm getting noise up there. I don't really care if it is still pristine (unlikely at 100K miles), I want all new bearings and components up front except the AC and PS.

Ford pump seemed to last OK, why should I go aftermarket?

[fastblackmerc]

The tensioner and idler were a problem, already fixed. Alternator is likely an issue too. I'm going to change the water pump just on general principle. It has a bearing, and I'm getting noise up there. I don't really care if it is still pristine (unlikely at 100K miles), I want all new bearings and components up front except the AC and PS.

Ford pump seemed to last OK, why should I go aftermarket?

Supposedly the EMP Stewart pump flows better than stock.

From their website.

"For over 25+ years, Stewart has focused on the development and production of high performance water pumps, resulting in innovations like special high-strength castings, larger flow passages, more efficient impellers, and stronger bearings. Every Stewart pump is hand-assembled and includes a one-year guarantee.

At about $130.00 I'll be using one next time I change my pump.

[lifespeed]

Stock pump is only $85. But I am a sucker for better parts for the Marauder. I'm planning on upgrading the alternator bearings and using a Litens OAD decoupler pulley instead of the simple over-running clutch.

Edit: They come in short and long styles for the Ford 4.6L. STE50046S is for the 2001 - 2004 Mustang, and is the short version. Earlier 4.6L mustangs use the long version. Anybody here use one yet? I would hate to get a pump that doesn't fit.

[lifespeed]

Anybody install one of these and can confirm they fit? They come in short and long styles for the Ford 4.6L. STE50046S is for the 2001 - 2004 Mustang, and is the short version. Earlier 4.6L mustangs use the long version.

I would hate to get a pump that doesn't fit.

Edit: a search shows one member with a supercharger is using this pump. Hopefully that means it fits NA too. Don't think the pulley setup moves longitudinally for an SC install.

[Krytin]

Been working fine for more than a few years in my NA car. I think blackened300a did a write-up on the installation w/pictures.

[Cobra25]

Anybody install one of these and can confirm they fit? They come in short and long styles for the Ford 4.6L. STE50046S is for the 2001 - 2004 Mustang, and is the short version. Earlier 4.6L mustangs use the long version.

I would hate to get a pump that doesn't fit.

Edit: a search shows one member with a supercharger is using this pump. Hopefully that means it fits NA too. Don't think the pulley setup moves longitudinally for an SC install.


I"ve had one in my Marauder for years. The correct part # is : STE50046S. They have a higher flow rate than the stock marauder pumps.

[Cobra25]

Just to add they install just like the stock ones do and anyone can put one in any type of marauder. They have more fins on the back at a different angle.

[Cobra25]

Stock pump is only $85. But I am a sucker for better parts for the Marauder. I'm planning on upgrading the alternator bearings and using a Litens OAD decoupler pulley instead of the simple over-running clutch.

Edit: They come in short and long styles for the Ford 4.6L. STE50046S is for the 2001 - 2004 Mustang, and is the short version. Earlier 4.6L mustangs use the long version. Anybody here use one yet? I would hate to get a pump that doesn't fit.
The STE50046S is the correct one.

[Vortech347]

Unless you have a power adder and need a bigger radiator the stock pump works great. Flow doesn't really matter much since the T-stat controls the coolant flow/temp anyway. The housing should be fine. They are a pretty robust piece.

[lifespeed]

Unless you have a power adder and need a bigger radiator the stock pump works great. Flow doesn't really matter much since the T-stat controls the coolant flow/temp anyway. The housing should be fine. They are a pretty robust piece.

no doubt you are correct. I hope to have a power adder someday and re-use the water pump.

[Marauderjack]

I've had one for 7 years and 150K miles.......works fine but not any better than the OEM pump I threw away!!:shake:

I'd stick with the FORD pump and save $$$'s for other stuff.....

My $0.02 FWIW!!:beer:

[DOOM]

Got one on my car.

[justbob]

My OEM lasted 36,000 miles. My $45 advanced auto one lasted 56,000 till I replaced it along with the engine for no reason..

Complete waste of $100 IMO


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

[fastblackmerc]

Anybody install one of these and can confirm they fit? They come in short and long styles for the Ford 4.6L. STE50046S is for the 2001 - 2004 Mustang, and is the short version. Earlier 4.6L mustangs use the long version.

I would hate to get a pump that doesn't fit.

Edit: a search shows one member with a supercharger is using this pump. Hopefully that means it fits NA too. Don't think the pulley setup moves longitudinally for an SC install.



STE50046S is the correct P/N to fit the Marauder with or without forced induction.

[lifespeed]

I've had one for 7 years and 150K miles.......works fine but not any better than the OEM pump I threw away!!:shake:

I'd stick with the FORD pump and save $$$'s for other stuff.....

My $0.02 FWIW!!:beer:

If the bearing and seal lasted 150K miles that is something to brag about. I doubt cheap part store pumps, or even Ford will do that.

Agreed that flow and cooling aren't likely to improve without a two-row radiator, or needed on a stock engine.

[justbob]

One thing to remember is some brands at the cheap places are the very same manufactures that Ford or other companies use. The mark up is unreal.

Just an example here, but I was quoted $75 for a BWD Cobra IAC from Advanced. To my knowledge, they are one of the suppliers to Ford. Local Ford crooks quoted me $186! They also wanted $42 for a neutral safety pigtail, VS. $7 for a BWD pigtail! Same damn thing.

As for the EMP on a boosted engine. Mine runs 19-21#'s. Still completely unneeded, It runs just the same as it did N/A. In all fairness i do have a 170* thermostat now, but i didn't when I was at 12#'s for years. Put that extra scratch to your Alt. or numerous other things unless you just have to have it. It is an upgrade, and trust me, I like upgrades so I get it, just more so the ones I can see a difference with.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.