justbob
04-22-2013, 09:14 AM
I have received a few PM's regarding needed parts so I put together a list of what I used, yours could vary. Most parts from '07-'12 are the same, but the trans itself was beefed up in 2010-12.
Trans: 2012 GT500 TR6060 ( rated at 600 ft. lbs.) w/1,800 miles. I paid $1,000 shipped for the trans, clutch components, shifter, cross member (not used), and he even threw in his brake master cylinder and booster, but I couldn't retrofit.
Trans mount: factory GT500
Shifter: I used a stock 2012. *no matter the shifter it will require shortening about 2" on the (2) support legs and the linkage. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330897656110&index=16&nav=SEARCH&nid=22920876062
Clutch kit: flywheel, both discs, pressure plate, and hydraulic TOB from a 2012 bolt right up. This is a McLeod kit minus TOB but is better and $500 cheaper.. http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500.html?utm_content=mcl eod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500&utm_campaign=TFFitmentV1&utm_source=TheFind&utm_medium=Shopping&AMID=mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500-2010-=2010&model=GT500
Clutch alignment tool: yes you will need it or have fun aligning a twin disc! You do NOT need a fancy aluminum one, the plastic one works perfect. I believe this is the one I bought. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-105313-f
Stainless line upgrade kit with adaptors: http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-line-0513v8.html?utm_content=GSBasi cFitmentV1&utm_campaign=42850982962-avshop&utm_source=Google-pla&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=&adpos=1o1&network=g&AMID=mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-line-0513v8-GSBasicFitmentV1&year=2005&adtype=pla
Reservoir: Shelby's share theirs with the brake reservoir and I imagine you could simply drill and tap a fitting onto yours. I simply added a Wilwood remote reservoir to simplify the process. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11098?seid=srese1&gclid=CPe_hMyo3rYCFeU-MgodjgoArA
Pedals: I had NO clue what I would need so I bought a fox body set for $65 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221200440925&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=06545227216 and a '07 fully loaded hydraulic set with all switches included for $80 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221215000661&index=7&nav=SEARCH&nid=02698839816 off various forums. I also probably have $40 in additional hardware I bought from ACE, but probably only used $3 worth...
Driveshaft: The Driveshaft Shop CV style aluminum extended GT500 upgrade.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-driveshafts/ford/ford-2011-14-mustang-gt-6-speed-manual-1-piece-aluminum-shaft-with-cv-900hp-3-1-2-aluminum-1350-has-no-clearance-issues
Do NOT be sold on a steel telescoping design. Yes they can handle a ton of HP on a launch, but simply can't take WOT runs past 90 or so. I know, I've been thru two shafts and three rebalances..
Shifter boot and handle assembly: $29 ebay was the best source. *You will find that it has a hard plastic bottom that is square VS your rounded edge counsel. Simply trim down the four corners underneath the boot and she is a perfect fit that clips right on. i have decided that mounting it under the counsel looks way better and also plan to go back on this, maybe even finished off with one of Jim's (FBM) awesome Marauder bezels. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=380622175543&cmd=VIDESC
Shifter handle extension: only one I could find. *must be grinded down to fit into the factory handle as well as shortened as well as the shifter threads because you only need an additional 2" or so to achieve factory Marauder shifter handle height. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=190814226955&index=6&nav=SEARCH&nid=25886554355
Ford racing pilot bearing for all mod motors: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-7600-b
Flywheel bolts: recommend new. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6379-b
Pressure plate bolts: recommend new. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6397-a46
Neutral safety pigtail: http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_pigtail-bwd_18470559-p?searchTerm=Pigtail
Reverse lock out pigtail: http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/t56-reverse-lockout-module-pigtail-wires
Speedo pigtail: I "think" this is the one required. http://www.americanmuscle.com/speed-sensor-connector-7904.html
Back up light pigtail: I purchased an upgraded sensor and pigtail after reading up on many failures regarding the OEM sensor. They were wrong on the fitment so in a bind to my Louisville I soldered the wires to the sensor for the time being.. This is the OEM pigtail needed. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250900174559
Crossmember: 10' of 3/4" X 1 1/2" rectangular tubing, 2' of 1 1/4" OD thick wall tubing, 1' of 1 1/2" tube w/plugged ends for mounting bolts. Last pieces i used were approximately 1' X 6" 3/16" plate steel. Reason being for the 3/4" X 1 1/2" material is you only have 1" between the trans and the mount on the front side and my goal from the start was to never change the output shaft centerline. To accomplish this, the mount had to be tucked up as high as possible. There was no way that I could find to reuse the OEM cross member without serious modifications further weakening a HEAVY ugly unit. Mine is less than half the weight. There is probably 30 different designs you could build and all would work fine. I wanted simplistic, lite, and be removable in under 30 secs.
Parking brake mount: obviously you will be using this now.. I reused the old by cutting some tabs off here and there, flipping it upside down and moving it to the frame rail cross member perch. It now uses one of the cross member bolt holes, and I drilled a second hole in the perch to use for the second hole. Works flawlessly.
As for the pedals I used the factory brake pedal assembly in its entirety adding a fox body pedal (bent to fit better) and half of the fox body swing shaft and bushings. I used the master cylinder, brake return spring (for use with the fox body pedal), neutral safety switch and its mount. Everything else was custom mounts. If you are willing to lose the adjustable pedals then there is a TON of more real-estate above the gas pedal to simply use all of the fox body swing shaft and do your mock up on the other side. I do not care for decontenting factory options as I see it as hack work or laziness, even though I haven't touched my adjustable pedal switch in nine years.. BUT with having the motor for that right smack in the way of the shaft, it would certainly be more ideal to abandon that so you could pass right through to the gas pedal side.
Trans tunnel: easier than it looks for anyone with a clue of grinding and welding. I believe my final cut dimensions were 3 1/2" X 14". I then folded about 1" up all the way around to create a simple lap joint for the new tunnel extension I built out of 18 gauge metal IIRC. Total height extension I believe was 3 1/4" at the back. The only massaging necessary was the very front (under dash) it was a minimal 1/4" or so. I then welded the entire new tunnel inside and dynamatted it and I spot welded the bottom side of the lap and used seam sealer, finishing off with using truck roll on bed liner on the entire underside. WOW did it turn out sharp!
Reason for the tunnel extension was simple. This shifter is an under mount remote assembly. I did try at first to mount it above the tunnel like I saw someone on another site do with a panther. But as usuall, it was hack work and zero possibility of ever sealing up the two support arms and the linkage. Nice thing is you can easily replace the tunnel with one from a junked car if you ever feel like going back to auto, or simply keep the extension and go with a nice after market automatic shifter.
Other parts that are reusable include the starter and the engine plate.
Be prepared to snap your ring and pinion depending on your mods. I snapped every single tooth on my new 4.30 pinion and 12 teeth off the ring on the street with 420's on a 1st gear pedal up launch. Not sure why it gave out as I had just rolled a 1,000 miles of torturous miles since completion of the project. I am now installing a Yukon 4.10 gear in hopes the increased pinion diameter will help some. Just thought I would warn you of the newfound killer Torque loads...
Yukon 4.11: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/yga-24097
That's it in a nutshell. Pics can be found here: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86055
I will reserve some space on post 2 incase I need to add stuff.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Trans: 2012 GT500 TR6060 ( rated at 600 ft. lbs.) w/1,800 miles. I paid $1,000 shipped for the trans, clutch components, shifter, cross member (not used), and he even threw in his brake master cylinder and booster, but I couldn't retrofit.
Trans mount: factory GT500
Shifter: I used a stock 2012. *no matter the shifter it will require shortening about 2" on the (2) support legs and the linkage. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330897656110&index=16&nav=SEARCH&nid=22920876062
Clutch kit: flywheel, both discs, pressure plate, and hydraulic TOB from a 2012 bolt right up. This is a McLeod kit minus TOB but is better and $500 cheaper.. http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500.html?utm_content=mcl eod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500&utm_campaign=TFFitmentV1&utm_source=TheFind&utm_medium=Shopping&AMID=mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500-2010-=2010&model=GT500
Clutch alignment tool: yes you will need it or have fun aligning a twin disc! You do NOT need a fancy aluminum one, the plastic one works perfect. I believe this is the one I bought. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-105313-f
Stainless line upgrade kit with adaptors: http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-line-0513v8.html?utm_content=GSBasi cFitmentV1&utm_campaign=42850982962-avshop&utm_source=Google-pla&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=&adpos=1o1&network=g&AMID=mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-line-0513v8-GSBasicFitmentV1&year=2005&adtype=pla
Reservoir: Shelby's share theirs with the brake reservoir and I imagine you could simply drill and tap a fitting onto yours. I simply added a Wilwood remote reservoir to simplify the process. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11098?seid=srese1&gclid=CPe_hMyo3rYCFeU-MgodjgoArA
Pedals: I had NO clue what I would need so I bought a fox body set for $65 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221200440925&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=06545227216 and a '07 fully loaded hydraulic set with all switches included for $80 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221215000661&index=7&nav=SEARCH&nid=02698839816 off various forums. I also probably have $40 in additional hardware I bought from ACE, but probably only used $3 worth...
Driveshaft: The Driveshaft Shop CV style aluminum extended GT500 upgrade.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-driveshafts/ford/ford-2011-14-mustang-gt-6-speed-manual-1-piece-aluminum-shaft-with-cv-900hp-3-1-2-aluminum-1350-has-no-clearance-issues
Do NOT be sold on a steel telescoping design. Yes they can handle a ton of HP on a launch, but simply can't take WOT runs past 90 or so. I know, I've been thru two shafts and three rebalances..
Shifter boot and handle assembly: $29 ebay was the best source. *You will find that it has a hard plastic bottom that is square VS your rounded edge counsel. Simply trim down the four corners underneath the boot and she is a perfect fit that clips right on. i have decided that mounting it under the counsel looks way better and also plan to go back on this, maybe even finished off with one of Jim's (FBM) awesome Marauder bezels. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=380622175543&cmd=VIDESC
Shifter handle extension: only one I could find. *must be grinded down to fit into the factory handle as well as shortened as well as the shifter threads because you only need an additional 2" or so to achieve factory Marauder shifter handle height. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=190814226955&index=6&nav=SEARCH&nid=25886554355
Ford racing pilot bearing for all mod motors: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-7600-b
Flywheel bolts: recommend new. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6379-b
Pressure plate bolts: recommend new. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6397-a46
Neutral safety pigtail: http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_pigtail-bwd_18470559-p?searchTerm=Pigtail
Reverse lock out pigtail: http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/t56-reverse-lockout-module-pigtail-wires
Speedo pigtail: I "think" this is the one required. http://www.americanmuscle.com/speed-sensor-connector-7904.html
Back up light pigtail: I purchased an upgraded sensor and pigtail after reading up on many failures regarding the OEM sensor. They were wrong on the fitment so in a bind to my Louisville I soldered the wires to the sensor for the time being.. This is the OEM pigtail needed. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250900174559
Crossmember: 10' of 3/4" X 1 1/2" rectangular tubing, 2' of 1 1/4" OD thick wall tubing, 1' of 1 1/2" tube w/plugged ends for mounting bolts. Last pieces i used were approximately 1' X 6" 3/16" plate steel. Reason being for the 3/4" X 1 1/2" material is you only have 1" between the trans and the mount on the front side and my goal from the start was to never change the output shaft centerline. To accomplish this, the mount had to be tucked up as high as possible. There was no way that I could find to reuse the OEM cross member without serious modifications further weakening a HEAVY ugly unit. Mine is less than half the weight. There is probably 30 different designs you could build and all would work fine. I wanted simplistic, lite, and be removable in under 30 secs.
Parking brake mount: obviously you will be using this now.. I reused the old by cutting some tabs off here and there, flipping it upside down and moving it to the frame rail cross member perch. It now uses one of the cross member bolt holes, and I drilled a second hole in the perch to use for the second hole. Works flawlessly.
As for the pedals I used the factory brake pedal assembly in its entirety adding a fox body pedal (bent to fit better) and half of the fox body swing shaft and bushings. I used the master cylinder, brake return spring (for use with the fox body pedal), neutral safety switch and its mount. Everything else was custom mounts. If you are willing to lose the adjustable pedals then there is a TON of more real-estate above the gas pedal to simply use all of the fox body swing shaft and do your mock up on the other side. I do not care for decontenting factory options as I see it as hack work or laziness, even though I haven't touched my adjustable pedal switch in nine years.. BUT with having the motor for that right smack in the way of the shaft, it would certainly be more ideal to abandon that so you could pass right through to the gas pedal side.
Trans tunnel: easier than it looks for anyone with a clue of grinding and welding. I believe my final cut dimensions were 3 1/2" X 14". I then folded about 1" up all the way around to create a simple lap joint for the new tunnel extension I built out of 18 gauge metal IIRC. Total height extension I believe was 3 1/4" at the back. The only massaging necessary was the very front (under dash) it was a minimal 1/4" or so. I then welded the entire new tunnel inside and dynamatted it and I spot welded the bottom side of the lap and used seam sealer, finishing off with using truck roll on bed liner on the entire underside. WOW did it turn out sharp!
Reason for the tunnel extension was simple. This shifter is an under mount remote assembly. I did try at first to mount it above the tunnel like I saw someone on another site do with a panther. But as usuall, it was hack work and zero possibility of ever sealing up the two support arms and the linkage. Nice thing is you can easily replace the tunnel with one from a junked car if you ever feel like going back to auto, or simply keep the extension and go with a nice after market automatic shifter.
Other parts that are reusable include the starter and the engine plate.
Be prepared to snap your ring and pinion depending on your mods. I snapped every single tooth on my new 4.30 pinion and 12 teeth off the ring on the street with 420's on a 1st gear pedal up launch. Not sure why it gave out as I had just rolled a 1,000 miles of torturous miles since completion of the project. I am now installing a Yukon 4.10 gear in hopes the increased pinion diameter will help some. Just thought I would warn you of the newfound killer Torque loads...
Yukon 4.11: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/yga-24097
That's it in a nutshell. Pics can be found here: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86055
I will reserve some space on post 2 incase I need to add stuff.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.