Cleaning the MAF

[drgnrdr33]

Has anyone ever tried cleaning the MAF? I dug around the forums and see plenty on the K&Ns but no MAF cleaning instructions.:help:

I installed a K&N airfilter, right out of the box, no extra oiling per their instructions. After a mile of driving the Check Engine light went on and won't go off. The local dealer says the K&N filters do not void the warranty but they have seen a few cases where they ruin the MAF, a $300 expense not covered by the warranty. I figured I'd try cleaning it since I'll likely have to replace it anyway.

Also, do you know know of a place that sells them for less than $300?

[01True BlueGT]

Try this site. Its for a mustang but same cleaning proceedure.
http://www.bullittarchive.com/Maintenance/maf/

[RF Overlord]

That's a good link, True Blue...

note where it says: "A cleaner made for electrical wiring that DOES NOT leave a residue."...

This is VERY important...do NOT use carburetor cleaner, or throttle-body cleaner...you WILL ruin the MAF and be SOL...

I think Dennis sells the Marauder airbox and MAF as a set to the CVPI crowd...he should be able to hook you up with just a MAF for much less than $300...


...and don't put the K&N filter back in...

[03SILVERSTREAK]

That's a good link, True Blue...

note where it says: "A cleaner made for electrical wiring that DOES NOT leave a residue."...

This is VERY important...do NOT use carburetor cleaner, or throttle-body cleaner...you WILL ruin the MAF and be SOL...

I think Dennis sells the Marauder airbox and MAF as a set to the CVPI crowd...he should be able to hook you up with just a MAF for much less than $300...


...and don't put the K&N filter back in...Strange that he's having problems with his MAF and I have a K&N Filter with no problems...:confused:

[frdwrnch]

This may shed some light on this issue: A mass airflow sensor measures the amount and density of the air. It does this by routing the air across two wires contained in the MAF. One is a heated wire and the other is not. Forgive me if I oversimplify but basically by measuring the difference in temperature across the two wires it can calculate the amount and density of the air. SOMETIMES oil from a K&N type filter will accumulate and cook on the hotwire and accumulate and foul the sense wire resulting in improper calculations and MAF malfunction. I have only been successful once in cleaning a MAF sensor and it was on a low mileage vehicle. I think once the oil cooks on the hot wire that you probably can't remove it. But, for that kind of money I would try.

[RF Overlord]

Strange that he's having problems with his MAF and I have a K&N Filter with no problems...

Maybe his was over-oiled at the factory...?

That seems to be the way it is with K&N air filters...some people have no issues, and some do...personally, I don't like the odds...

[drgnrdr33]

Thanks for the help! I'll try the eletronics cleaner when I get back into town. Got dragged out for work-related training.

[drgnrdr33]

I replaced the K&N filter with a stock filter and ran the car for approx 75 miles. The Check Engine light remained on. Idling was slightly rougher than before the light went on and gas mileage dropped by approx 1/3.

I got back into town and picked up some spray on electronics contact cleaner. Brand is "PureClean", though there were lots of others to choose from. I used a cleaner that leaves no residue & said it was safe for all plastic parts. Others on the shelf leave silicone behind (likely no better for an MAF than the oil from the K&N) or say they are safe for "most" plastics. Cost for an 8oz spray can = $3.49 @ Frys Electronics.

I took the top of the airbox completely out of the car (removed sensor cable and air intake hose) and looked @ the MAF. It did not appear dirty or give any other clue that oil was on it. I sprayed a few shots of cleaner on the MAF in both air flow directions, let it dry for a minute (cleaner dries fast), and replaced the top of the airbox.

Note that I also had a tamper-proof #20 Torx bit to remove the MAF from the airbox, just in case.

I fired up the car and it idled smoother, but the check engine light was still on. The link to cleaning an MAF early in this thread mentioned that the Check Engine light would go off after 3 cold starts. The link is for a Mustang so I decided to be patient and see if Ford's EEC operation was consistent across models. Sure enough, after 3 cold starts the Check Engine light went off and the MM is running like it was before, both idle and mileage.

To all - Thanks for saving me $300!!!!!:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

[CRUZTAKER]

Great! Now pull that battery cable for 15 minutes or so and erase those codes from the EEC.