View Full Version : Blend door actuator
BLACKMARAUDER04
05-18-2013, 01:31 PM
I have pulled apart the dash to replace the actuator.
Where is it physically mounted?
I can't see it.
lji372
05-18-2013, 01:45 PM
I don't personally know but google should be your friend.
Shoot curless a p.m. He would know for sure
Blk Mamba
05-18-2013, 04:28 PM
Inside the air box under the glove box.
Marauderman
05-18-2013, 04:52 PM
I have pulled apart the dash to replace the actuator.
Where is it physically mounted?
I can't see it.
fastblackmerc--then man that can do a 1,00 things with our car--did mine--contact him ( PM ) for any info---
BAD MERC
05-18-2013, 05:08 PM
Mine was replaced by Carfixer just by pulling the dash off the firewall about a foot. It's located right of center and if you bought the new one - you know what you're looking for. Tip; One of the screws that hold it can be loosened but not easily removed so notch that hole in the new actuator to install it easier. Just break the old one off once you remove the easy screws. Lay a mirror face down on the windshield and it will make your view into the dash easier. Backasswards but easier.
BLACKMARAUDER04
05-18-2013, 05:52 PM
I found it and was able to remove one screw.
Can't get at the other two.
I am now stuck.
Anyone know how to remove the entire dash?
lji372
05-18-2013, 08:15 PM
I found it and was able to remove one screw.
Can't get at the other two.
I am now stuck.
Anyone know how to remove the entire dash?
I don't personally know but google should be your friend.
Shoot curless a p.m. He would know for sure
Spectragod
05-20-2013, 05:56 PM
I found it and was able to remove one screw.
Can't get at the other two.
I am now stuck.
Anyone know how to remove the entire dash?
Actually, if you remove the glove box assembly and passenger side airbag, it's pretty easy.
If you want to remove the dash, it is quite a process, I'll try to condense it.
Remove the panel at the top of the dash by the windshield, it snaps off, remove the 5 or 6, 7mm screws
Remove the gauge pod....if its a Marauder
the is a 10 mm bolt on each side in the center that will need removed.
Remove the trim below the steering column, remove the bolts holding the column up, 4, 18mm IIRC
Remove both kick panels, there is a single 10mm bolt on each side, remove them.
pull the dash away from the firewall, it is heavy and bulky, get help for this, just set it as far back as you can, as the wiring is still attached, it won't move far. You will have loads of room if you go this route, if you've never done it before, you will be in for an experience.
I would recommend removing just the airbag and glove box, I can do these in just under 3 hours now. If you close to me, I would be willing to help you out.
ChiTownMaraud3r
05-21-2013, 08:55 PM
Does anyone know why these POSs go bad in the first place?
I have to do mine and would hate to re-do all of this as it sounds like a pain in the sack.
lji372
05-22-2013, 09:04 AM
Does anyone know why these POSs go bad in the first place?
I have to do mine and would hate to re-do all of this as it sounds like a pain in the sack.
i was told when it went in my 97 explorer that it is from condensation build up while running the a/c at max setting. i was told to avoid this in the future to switch from the max a/c to the a/c five minutes before arriving at my destination.
right or wrong that's what i do now:beer:
Dave1kRR
05-22-2013, 09:52 AM
I did the glove box and airbag removal as well. I just had to get creative with the hard to reach screw. I just found a good combo between using gear wrenches and small rachet and sockets.
Blackmobile
05-22-2013, 10:45 AM
There is a write up on CV.net on the replacement of the heater core, which in the process the blend door actuator module is accessable.
http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1588408#Post1588408
fastblackmerc
05-22-2013, 12:34 PM
i was told when it went in my 97 explorer that it is from condensation build up while running the a/c at max setting. i was told to avoid this in the future to switch from the max a/c to the a/c five minutes before arriving at my destination.
right or wrong that's what i do now:beer:
I highly doubt that...........
There is no way that moisture can get into the actuator.
I assume it's just cheap electronics that eventually fail.
If you are going to replace it, spend the money for a genuine Motorcraft replacement. Dorman and others do not last long.
fastblackmerc
05-22-2013, 12:36 PM
I have an offset ratcheting wrench with a short extension and socket that works great.
fastblackmerc
05-22-2013, 12:36 PM
Mine was replaced by Carfixer just by pulling the dash off the firewall about a foot. It's located right of center and if you bought the new one - you know what you're looking for. Tip; One of the screws that hold it can be loosened but not easily removed so notch that hole in the new actuator to install it easier. Just break the old one off once you remove the easy screws. Lay a mirror face down on the windshield and it will make your view into the dash easier. Backasswards but easier.
You don't have to break anything off.
a_d_a_m
05-26-2013, 09:17 PM
With the help of a CVN buddy, okay he did most of the work, my actuator is fixed. We went through the glovebox without dropping the dash. My hands were too big to get in at the back screws and I think if I was doing this myself, I'd have to drop the dash. What a pain in the butt for 4 little screws. 4hrs later...I have a/c though.
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