all new top end and it still ticking!

[montyd]

So as some of you know I just had my heads redone, all new lifters, new exhaust valve guides, new oil pump, all new timing chains guides and gears. And added cobra intake cams. I got it together today and fired it up. Let it warm up a little and it still has the original tick! I took a video see what you guys think. It doesn't do it until the car starts to get warm. The warmer it gets the more it does it.

[montyd]

I can't get the video to upload either

[Vortech347]

Exhaust leak?

I once thought I had a bad lifter in my fox. The wife swore it was a header leak. I said BS. Replaced pushrods, lifters, rockers. Fired it up. Noise still there.... Pulled the header off...found a blown gasket. She was right.

[montyd]

I know the exhaust is tight I quadruple checked the headers when I installed them. The noise is higher in the motor. The only thing I didn't replace was the rockers. Its definitely a mechanical tick. The video is processing on you tube as we speak

[montyd]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F1TfstELpA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That's the link for the video

[SpartaPerformance]

New valve seats? That's where most of head tick comes from in DOHC.

[montyd]

The machine shop said the valve seats looked fine. I stressed that the valve seats are notorious for coming loose and ticking and to replace them. He said he checked them all and they were all fine, he re ground them and the valves and re assembled

[MyBlackBeasts]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F1TfstELpA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That's the link for the video

Hard to tell from a vid but sounds heavier than valve train. Maybe Wrist pin???

Get the stethescope out & go to town!

Good luck & keep us posted. :)

[montyd]

I sure hope not. I knew I should have built the bottom end while I had the heads off but I didn't have the money

[RacerX]

Could just be some piston slap. How's your oil pressure? Has the sound gotten worse over time or remained the same? Take a long handled screwdriver, put it to each cam cover bolt and put your ear right on the handle end. See if you can narrow the area down. Try different points all around the engine. I've listened to an engine while running, but, from underneath while it was on a lift. We would have sworn the noise was up top until we listened underneath. Be extremely careful of moving parts while doing this btw!!!

[montyd]

All I have is the factory gauge to go off of. It was reading higher then I remember it being before the rebuild. I did put a new pump in while it was apart too. I'm wondering about the right side timing chain tensioner for the chain that goes from the crank to the can. When I assembled it, the chain was tight on the tensioner side but had slack on the top side. I thought that once the tensioner was filed with oil it would take the slack out. I did notice that at a point while it was warming up, it went from quiet to noise like something freed up. I've read about oil filters causing low pressure when warm. I'm going to try changing the filter too

[MyBlackBeasts]

All I have is the factory gauge to go off of. It was reading higher then I remember it being before the rebuild. I did put a new pump in while it was apart too. I'm wondering about the right side timing chain tensioner for the chain that goes from the crank to the can. When I assembled it, the chain was tight on the tensioner side but had slack on the top side. I thought that once the tensioner was filed with oil it would take the slack out. I did notice that at a point while it was warming up, it went from quiet to noise like something freed up. I've read about oil filters causing low pressure when warm. I'm going to try changing the filter too

Didn't you put new guides, etc in with all that work?

[montyd]

New guides, tensioners, gears, bolts. I got the ford racing timing set with everything. And then ordered the cloyes gears and TFS lower gears which is in now

[montyd]

let me run this by you guys. i have been talking to my trusted mechanic and were kicking around the idea that it could be the water pump or alternator or one of the tensioner pulleys making the noise. i showed him the video and he said he did a trail blazer last week that made a very very similar noise and it was the water pump.. thoughts?? thanks again guys

[Marauderjack]

A $15.00 Stethoscope will remove much of your guesswork....believe me!!:beer:

[montyd]

That's what I'll be doing tonight.

[8UWITH6]

So take the serp belt off and start it up

[RacerX]

Water pump will start leaking before you ever hear any noise. If you can rotate the alt pulley back and forth and it's not clicking, squeeling or catching on anything, it should be fine. You CAN rule a lot of this stuff out with said auto stethoscope or long screwdriver. You'll understand once you try it. ;)

[montyd]

I have one. That a where I'm going to start tonight when I get home, I did rotate the alt before I put it on and thought it felt gritty but didn't think anything of it

[justbob]

Water pump will start leaking before you ever hear any noise. If you can rotate the alt pulley back and forth and it's not clicking, squeeling or catching on anything, it should be fine. You CAN rule a lot of this stuff out with said auto stethoscope or long screwdriver. You'll understand once you try it. ;)

Always thought the same a out water pumps till I did Mikes.. His had a about five nasty hard spots on rotation. So much so I had to put some good pressure on it. No leaky.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[montyd]

[QUOTE=justbob;1298439]Always thought the same a out water pumps till I did Mikes.. His had a about five nasty hard spots on rotation. So much so I had to put some good pressure on it. No leaky.]


did it make any noise?? im just wondering more than anything. i have a tech coming to the house tonight to give me a second opinion also and try some things, and take a listen with the stethoscope. i just had to wonder if anything external has ever been known to cause a noise like this.

[RacerX]

Always thought the same a out water pumps till I did Mikes.. His had a about five nasty hard spots on rotation. So much so I had to put some good pressure on it. No leaky.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
No kidding! Interesting, but, listening to the video, if that's a water pump, there's a Keebler elf in there with a BFH doing something badazz! :lol:

[montyd]

No kidding! Interesting, but, listening to the video, if that's a water pump, there's a Keebler elf in there with a BFH doing something badazz! :lol:

Ha ha you just made my afternoon. This thing has me totally discouraged ( I considered trading it this morning) and were dead at work so all I have to keep me occupied is think about the dang thing. I'll take pictures if I find an elf and hopefully he is making some new special marauder cookie....

[ncmm]

It might be the fuel injectors. I had an '03 Focus SVT that ticked so loud you could here it from inside the car.

[montyd]

I took the belt off and its still there. My mechanic took a look at it and determined the same thing I thought originally. Which is that the noise is coming from the right(passenger) side head in the very front. At this point I'm headed for an oil pressure gauge that's real to see just exactly what the oil pressure is in the motor and then continue from there. I'm leaning towards it being a bad primary timing chain tensioner and this point even tho its brand new

[Vortech347]

Listened to the video. I would NOT run that car again till you figure out the mystery noise.

[montyd]

I had to check the oil pressure and that's the last it will run. At idle it had 40+ psi. I went to 12-1400 rpm and it was over 90psi and climbing. The motor wasn't at temperature but it was warm enough that the gauge was up into the normal range. I'm thinking that seems really high and I'm wondering if it'd way to much causing the chains to be to tight? It has motorcraft 5-20 in it that's brand new

[Vortech347]

I gotta check the oil pressure and that's all I'm doing. Then the timing cover is coming off a third time..

Oil pressure won't tell you anything. You already know there is a huge mechanical problem.

[montyd]

I don't feel like tearing the motor down again tonight. It'll have to wait until tomorrow and I'll tear the cam covers and timing cover back off and have a look.

[F2F]

Exhaust leak?

I once thought I had a bad lifter in my fox. The wife swore it was a header leak. I said BS. Replaced pushrods, lifters, rockers. Fired it up. Noise still there.... Pulled the header off...found a blown gasket. She was right.
easy there was no reason for the last couple words we all understood. :P

[montyd]

I tore the front cover and cam covers back off and here is what I found. The passenger side left in video) chain seems a lot more loose the the drivers side(right in video) chain. What do you guy think? I couldn't seem to put the video here so that's the link to it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMRhrbVK5vI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[RacerX]

That's not bad actually. Rotate your crank with a socket and breaker bar. You'll see them tighten and slacken and everything will jump a little. The cam lobes have some major resistance with the springs depending on where everything is. This is why we have harmonic balancers. Why Eatons at a certain idle/harmonic have a vibrating sound.

LMRhrbVK5vI

[CBT]

[QUOTE=RacerX;1298920]That's not bad actually. Rotate your crank with a socket and breaker bar. You'll see them tighten and slacken and everything will jump a little.

That's a good feel, bro. :beer:

[montyd]

OK. I guess I'm out of ideas than. I was really thinking that the tensioner wasn't putting enough pressure on it and that was my noise. How can I tell if a follower is bad? They are the only parts I didn't replace

[CBT]

Did you try swapping out the alternator?

[montyd]

I took the serpentine belt off, started the car and the noise was still there so I kinda ruled out everything external on the motor

[burt ragio]

You have determined the noise is coming from the front passenger side. I would take valve cover off inspect rocker wear point. Check gap. Check lifter for wear gawling. If they are good last resort I would lap the valve & seat in said cylender. You may even want to check cam lobes.

[montyd]

For an update, I've changed all the cam followers in the first cylinder on passenger side, checked all the new lash adjusters, measured the exhaust cam lobes and there all the same, I put it back together and it still ticks. So while it was hot I tore the the passenger side cam cover off, covered everything, and started the car. Everything looked the same across the head and with the stethoscope i couldn't pin point it. At this point, I've all but given up. I'm going to put it back together in the morning, and check the drivers side once its warm. If I can't pin point it I think I'm going to get rid of the car. I don't know what else to do.

[babbage]

Could the head or block need to be decked? If the block overheated and warped a bit perhaps that could be it? Sucks man sorry for your nightmare. Don't sell it. Perhaps you could just get a good used set of heads and bolt them on.

[montyd]

I just had the heads completely gone through, they were both decked all new valve guides full valve job. All new lash adjusters, and a couple followers. So I really hope its not warped heads or the machine shop will be paying for everything to fix it. I've been messing with thus since January and have almost 2k in it now. I'm almost wondering if its fuel related or something. It originally started when It was about 20 or 25 degrees outside. But only does when the motor is warm which is the worst part because its hard to get it hot and get a valve cover off fast enough, although I am to the point where I can have both can covers and the timing cover off in under an hour lol

[RacerX]

Turn off OD, put it in neutral, put the gas to the floor, slam the shifter into first, hold the gas pedal down, wait until you hear the engine hitting the rev limiter, slam it into second, repeat for third. If the tick hasn't gotten any worse, you're A-OK!






J/K!!! :D It may just be piston slap, it does sound a bit like it. You may be fine. Just pay attention to the sound over time and see if it stays the same or gets louder. If it gets louder, you may have a bad internal issue. You may even want to get a borescope to go through the plug holes and check the cylinders for any damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=borescope

[montyd]

the thought has crossed my mind but then again i have freking 600$ worth of brand new 285 bfg kdw's on the rear and dont wanna waste the money :lol: i took the mustang out and it got the beaking instead lol


i had the heads off less then 3 weeks agao and the tops of the pistons and the cylinders looked really good. i havent drieven the car since january because im afraid to. i guess maybe i should start driving it and see what happens. if it blows up it ill find out what was wrong lol

my dad thinks i should pull the pan and plasti guage the rod bearings. it just seems way to high in the motor to be that. i did notice when i had the cam cover off that the noise almost seemed quieter and on the other side. i did forget to put the cop's on the passenger side when i ran it with no cam cover(who would have thought i twould run on 4 cylinders?) im almost starting to wonder if its bad fuel and actually spark knock. but it seems way to mechanical sounding for that. i guess i dunno just trying to think of every possibilty before tearing the motor out and the heads back of. im going to try the drivers side with no cops today and see if that takes care of it??

[Mr. Man]

I know you triple checked the exhaust when you installed them but might be worth a look.

Did you listen to the bottom end when your car was on the lift at the mechanic shop?

[1 Bad Merc]

Are you sure it's not a fuel injector ticking? My injectors are pretty loud on my Lincoln and they make a racket sometimes.

[montyd]

I did listen to the bottom end and I just did laying on the floor in my shop. I can hear ticking all over the place but the ticking that's not supposed to be there is definitely on the front of the motor. I'm starting to lean towards its in one of the front cylinders. It just doesn't sound like a rod bearing to me. Its a lighter sounding noise. Maybe its a wrist pin? I've had the thought to add some Lucas or STP to the oil and see if that helps and if it does I know its bottom end? Thoughts?

I'm headed to town for fuel for it I've burned up 1/4 tank of gas trying to find the noise. I did listen to the injectors too and they seem quiet

[DTUB]

Why don't you try disconnecting an injector (0ne at a time) on the left bank and see if that has any effect.

[montyd]

I did that also, s couple times. And nothing changed. Zack listened to the video and is thinking its bottom end do I'm going to Jack it back up and pull the oil pan and see whats going on in there

[burt ragio]

Brother you got to much blood money & time to give up. When you get to the root of this ticking ghost get it fixed you will regain confidence & strength. If you quit now you will never forgive yourself.

[montyd]

The tick turned out to be rod bearings. This is what the front two looked like. The crank still looks perfect no nicks or lines or anything. I gotta check the rest but I'm hoping to put new bearings in and be good to go

[1stMerc]

Ouch. What oil are you running?

[montyd]

It was mobil 1 full synthetic. I had 6 rods that look like that. But didn't hurt the crank or rod so im good to go

[justbob]

WOW.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[lifespeed]

It was mobil 1 full synthetic. I had 6 rods that look like that. But didn't hurt the crank or rod so im good to go

I think it is unlikely the rest of your bottom end is fine. Do it right, machine the crank, hone the block, replace the pistons and re-size (or preferably replace) the connecting rods.

Isn't your time valuable? Rebuild the bottom end correctly and never look back. It will serve you well for many years.

[guspech750]

Yes. Rebuild it all. For Booooooooost!!


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[montyd]

Id love to rebuild it all. But at this point its just not on the cards. I've already spend every dime I could scrap up on this thing. If I wasn't in the middle of building a house I probably would be able to. I will check the mains before I put it back together but that's it for now. My plan at this point is to get it fixed and start saving for a cobra short block. Then hopefully this winter ill be able to swap it out.

[burt ragio]

Caps look like a oil issue. The motor had little or no oil, never changed oil, poor oil pressure. Find the culprit. How did the cylender walls look when you were replacing the caps.

[montyd]

I had the. Heads off a couple weeks ago, the cylinders looked perfect and there has been very little run time since Ifirst heard the noise.( the car hasn't moved since january when I first heard it). Im thinking that I didn't let it warm up enough before driving it the day it happened. The oil was to thick and starved to rods. Even with the bearings the way they are, it didn't make any noise until the motor was warm. It has a brand new pump.in it now also and has good oil pressure

[burt ragio]

Sounds like your good to go. Bolt it up put the windows down & take her out for a long ride. Allow break in time for new bearings. Then drain oil add new & your golden.

[lji372]

Nice to see you found the problem.
Get that house done but don't forget to build the garage big enough :D

34505

Problem is it's never big enough

[montyd]

thanks for keeping me going guys. i really appreciate it. ive never met any of you guys and i can aleady tell your all quality people. the world need more marauder owners :beer:.

as for the house, i designed it all and the garae is actually 300 sq feet bigger than the house lol. i have a roatary lift going in, a complete wash bay in the center and a 2 stalls for my finished cars. i tried to build a garage that has everyhting i could dream of in a shop and i think i nailed it. i even found a drinking fountain that plugs in at the restore a couple weeks ago for 40 bucks haha, now to figure out how to get it to spit cold beer out...:lol:

[lji372]

just trying to help :D

https://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&q=cold+beer+dispenser&oq=cold+beer+dispenser&gs_l=hp.3..0j0i22i30l3.4357.48 42.1.5042.2.2.0.0.0.0.185.185. 0j1.1.0...0.0...1c.1.14.psy-ab.thEEyaaSB_E&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.47008514,d.dmQ&fp=5b953161970de69d&biw=1454&bih=726


and i am looking for some type of lift, has to be compact, and can't go very high because of ceiling height (no, i didn't build it :lol: )

[montyd]

I scored mine used for 1100 bucks. Best money i've ever spent and I can't even use it yet lol but it does require a 12 ft ceiling to whick I put in cathedral trusses to get. And all I need is cold beer on tap id never get anything done lol

[MyBlackBeasts]

The tick turned out to be rod bearings. This is what the front two looked like. The crank still looks perfect no nicks or lines or anything. I gotta check the rest but I'm hoping to put new bearings in and be good to go

Low oil pressure or blocked flow.

Good thing you were running quality synth or it would be blown.

Don't care how much you have spent, ***** the $$$ or put it on hold till you have it. If you just plop new bearings in as is, guarranteed you will be pulling the motor again in a short time...

Good luck with the repair.

[lifespeed]

Low oil pressure or blocked flow.

Good thing you were running quality synth or it would be blown.

Don't care how much you have spent, ***** the $$$ or put it on hold till you have it. If you just plop new bearings in as is, guarranteed you will be pulling the motor again in a short time...

Good luck with the repair.

Yes. Motor doesn't care about your finances. Do it right or do it over. Table the project for now.

[boatmangc]

Ditto, on checking ALL of the bearings, if the crank appears to be OK plastiguage all bearing journals. If they check OK, replace all of the bearings, and the oil pump.
Then screw in a real oil pressure gauge and spin it over and see what the oil pressure really is.

rockautodotcom has a Sealed Power oil pump for $125 and rod bearings for 22.79 complete set, Crank Bearings for $41.79.
My guess, when you plastiguage you will find standard bearings won't work anymore.

[montyd]

I will be plasti gauging everything before I bolt it back together. If its in spec ill go with it. If not I won't it has a brand new pump in it already so im good there. And I have a real gauge installed so we will see when my new rod bolts come in

[lifespeed]

I will be plasti gauging everything before I bolt it back together. If its in spec ill go with it. If not I won't it has a brand new pump in it already so im good there. And I have a real gauge installed so we will see when my new rod bolts come in

You don't replace rod bolts without re-sizing the rods! I know you feel under pressure to get this done, but if you cut corners, don't machine the crank, machine/replace the rods, etc, it is going to bite you!

[montyd]

As of now im in the hunt for a new motor. I will have it machined and waiting to go in this winter. As of now, I can't keep making the payments on.the car and not drive it. I realize im taking a risk by putting new bearings in and going with it but that's what I cam afford to do at the moment. But I also don't have another 1500 bucks for machine work and all the other stuff that goes with redoing a bottom end. I also realize its twice the work but I don't mind that. This way I can buy parts slowly and build a bullit proof bottom.end that I wont have to worry about. I've already sold 1 car/toy to do the repairs to this point and I wont sell another to keep going. It may not be the correct way to do it but I did it with my mustang and its handled 4 years of living at 6000+ rpm (I didn't know any better when I built that motor ) so I think this one wil be ok for a few months.

[boatmangc]

If yo are going to go ahead and drive it step up on your oil from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple or Amsoil, all synthetics are not created equal.

[montyd]

I will definitely do that. Are there any Stroker threads around here(im sure there are I haven't started digging yet) im thinking I want to build a Stroker motor to replace this one. I thought about finding a 5.4 bottom end and just going with that after having it rebuilt of course. I need to start reading on it and decide what to do.

[Weaver]

That sucks, Monty. I spun a bearing on my original motor, too. I got my current built one from Modular Mustang Racing (no warranty left) and this same noise just started last night. :( At least it sounds the same to me.

I guess it's time to buy a beater again while I table the marauder. I'm getting real sick of doing that, the thought of giving up/selling has crossed my mind too.

Still in the process of uploading but I think my vid link is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfI1uJZvTJ8

[RacerX]

Don't use a 5.4 block. Deck height is higher and you can't shut your hood. Go with a boss 5.0 block and stroker kit to get you about 330ish cubes. Add ZDDP to whatever current oil you use. Doesn't matter which oil, none save. Diesel oil and real racing oils have enought zinc, incl Amsoil, RP, etc.

[Black Magic]

Hi.
Read all the posts and was wondering if you ever got a rebuild on that motor. How long did the fix work for? Please let me know.

[Rob]

I found this thread and it has me freaked out. I'm hearing the same sound from the top front right area.

It started maybe a week or two ago and has gotten a little louder and more noticeable. I figured it was a heat shield until I popped the hood just now and heard it in the top front right'ish area. It only happens after the engine has warmed up for a few miles and gets progressively worse as it warms up. Only hear it on engine rev.

Now for the kicker. I was magically down 5 quarts of oil! I have NO clue what happened or where it went. I'm good about checking the oil all the time. There were no puddles or smoke.

I added 5 quarts of Motorcraft blend and it went away on engine rev and idle. I did however hear a little tick for a second when starting up a couple of times when colder. I'm going to see what happens when I go out to diner tonight. If it comes back I'm not going to be happy.

Question for the brain trust. How bad is the damage? I'll start my own thread if it comes back...

As a preemptive strike, realistically what should I be looking at buying for parts/services? I do not intend to do anything to the motor (blower) at this time so bare bones replace what is wrong fix.

[Rob]

Went for a drive. No sound, no tick. Either I dodged a bullet or am driving a ticking (no pun intended) bomb.

[blkZooM]

Do yourself a favor and youtube, "Cobra Head Tick" if it sounds anything like them then their is no issue just a very annoying tick. These heads are known for having a random tick for some reason and there isn't from what ive looked up a way to get rid of it besides buying late 04 or the +5 heads.

[Rob]

Do yourself a favor and youtube, "Cobra Head Tick" if it sounds anything like them then their is no issue just a very annoying tick. These heads are known for having a random tick for some reason and there isn't from what ive looked up a way to get rid of it besides buying late 04 or the +5 heads.

No, I know about that tick and it's not it. The engine purrs nicely, injectors happily clicking, exhaust warmly rumbling.

The sound I was hearing was EXACATLY like monty's youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F1TfstELpA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

After my 5 quarts of oil, the sound is gone. I still get this sinking feeling the other shoe is about to drop.

[Zack]

Damn just read this. You guys scared the OP into unnecessary work.
He could have slapped in new bearings and rod bolts and been on his way.

[Rob]

Damn just read this. You guys scared the OP into unnecessary work.
He could have slapped in new bearings and rod bolts and been on his way.

That's exactly what I am trying to avoid; unnecessary work. If I can get away with a relatively simple fix, I'm happy. If I need to machine the crank, rods, etc, I will if I NEED to, but I'm not going to do that for the thrill of it...

[Mike M]

My engine developed a noise just as you described, I'm pretty good at diagnosing these things but it really stumped me. I ended up replacing all the chain tensioners but it had the same noise. I decided to do a hard 0-60 pull and a rod came through the block.

This was a few years ago.

Wish I had better news.

[Zack]

If the crank looks good and the rod ends look good, slap bearings in and go. Don't listen to the naysayers

[lifespeed]

If the crank looks good and the rod ends look good, slap bearings in and go. Don't listen to the naysayers

And by "looks" I'm sure he means "measure with a micrometer". ;)

If it doesn't work, no big deal. Just pull it out and do it over again.

[Zack]

And by "looks" I'm sure he means "measure with a micrometer". ;)

If it doesn't work, no big deal. Just pull it out and do it over again.

I had an engine with an identical problem years ago. Put bearings in and went on my way. No issues

[lji372]

I had an std problem years ago. Put a&d ointment in and went on my way. No issues


Cause your awesome!!!

[tbone]

I had this problem on my 76 VW Scirocco in @ 1982. My buddy knew right away what the sound was from. I installed new crankshaft thrust bearings and drove it another 50k miles without issue. Easy job.

[Rob]

I had this problem on my 76 VW Scirocco in @ 1982. My buddy new right away what the sound was from. I installed new crankshaft thrust bearings and drove it another 50k miles without issue. Easy job.

I've only done top end work. Can someone point me to a tutorial on how to do the rod bearings? At this point I don't think I want to take the chance...

[Zack]

I've only done top end work. Can someone point me to a tutorial on how to do the rod bearings? At this point I don't think I want to take the chance...

Remove rod cap.
Push piston down enough to access upper bearing.
Replace both bearings.
Replace rod bolts (one time use)
Torque down
Done.

[Rob]

Remove rod cap.
Push piston down enough to access upper bearing.
Replace both bearings.
Replace rod bolts (one time use)
Torque down
Done.

That's rather anticlimactic. I was expecting something more involved. :D

What are the preferred bearings and rod bolts. And where is the best place to buy them?
Torque spec for all bolts?

[Zack]

That's rather anticlimactic. I was expecting something more involved. :D

What are the preferred bearings and rod bolts. And where is the best place to buy them?
Torque spec for all bolts?

Ford for bolts.
Alternately tighten new connecting rod cap bolts in several passes to obtain 25-35 N-m (18-25 lb-ft) and rotate connecting rod bolts an additional 85-95 degrees. After installation, rotate crankshaft to ensure smooth operation.

[tbone]

The problem is getting off the oil pan on the Marauder. On my VW nothing was blocking access.

[Zack]

Yes, engine definitely has to come out for this.

[Rob]

I was wondering how you guys say it is a simple fix if the engine has to come out. Not quite that simple.

I sadly don't have a garage anymore so I have to work with my mechanic to get this done. I was talking with him about this (he is a good friend) and he is saying not to let other people, meaning you guys, get me worried. He said since the sound went away and all seems fine, why worry. The engine does seem fine. It's not like I can quickly inspect the bearings with just dropping the pan as much as it will go.

However I like to plan ahead. After some reading, would I replace the bearings with stock Ford? Not over/under sized? Since I'm in there, anything else I should replace? Naturally if I see anything...chains, slides, etc. Engine has 119K on it. I'd like to do this all in one pop since this would already be costing me some good coin.

Instead of going to the dealership, anyone have the part number of the bearings and bolts?

Thanks folks.

[tbone]

It's simple once you have access. I would love to pull the oil pan on my car and root around in there, but......

[justbob]

I was wondering how you guys say it is a simple fix if the engine has to come out. Not quite that simple.

I sadly don't have a garage anymore so I have to work with my mechanic to get this done. I was talking with him about this (he is a good friend) and he is saying not to let other people, meaning you guys, get me worried. He said since the sound went away and all seems fine, why worry. The engine does seem fine. It's not like I can quickly inspect the bearings with just dropping the pan as much as it will go.

However I like to plan ahead. After some reading, would I replace the bearings with stock Ford? Not over/under sized? Since I'm in there, anything else I should replace? Naturally if I see anything...chains, slides, etc. Engine has 119K on it. I'd like to do this all in one pop since this would already be costing me some good coin.

Instead of going to the dealership, anyone have the part number of the bearings and bolts?

Thanks folks.


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