Trans Temp Gauge and a couple more ???'s

[tbone]

When installing a trans temp gauge sender, is installing the sender in an aluminum pan an adequate ground, or is more needed? The instructions are vague when it comes to aluminum pans and grounding needs. It says it should be grounded when installed but does not mention aluminum pans or what the procedure is if you have one.

When using a boost gauge for manifold pressure vacuum, where is the best spot to tap into to monitor the vacuum?

When tapping into power for the gauges for lighting, including dimming, should I just tap into a dash lighting fuse, or is there a better place?

Instead of grinding off some paint and grounding to the chassis, or finding another misc black wire, is there a better method to ground the gauges?

BTW, Auto Meter could do a better job of including all the correct parts as promised (compression fittings were incorrect size) and better instructions since everyone is not a professional mechanic.

[RF Overlord]

Installing a trans temp sender in the pan will work fine. Remember, most of the local power company's wiring is aluminium. Separate grounding is not necessary, or at least it wasn't in my my case. On a side note, you'll get a more accurate reading if you install it in the output line from the transmission to the cooler...that is where the fluid is hottest. AutoMeter makes a manifold specifically for that purpose.

I tapped my gauge illumination power into the circuit for the pod gauges. I ran a 2-conductor wire to the boost gauge on the pillar from the same place. For the constant +12V I used the cigar lighter circuit as it's handy and was being replaced by the trans temp gauge.

[justbob]

I run one single power wire from fuse 18 with a tap and a 5amp fuse for all gauges and reuse the existing 15 amp for the original stuff.

Next I run one ground for any gauges requiring it and also for the bulbs straight down to the floor where there is an existing ground bolt.

Connect all whites from the bulbs and run a single white to the orange wire at the pods.

Trans sensor I mount in the testing hole that's plugged off drivers side right between the bell housing and the shift linkage. You will get a higher reading because this is where the fluid exits the converter so don't be alarmed.

Any vacuum source is sufficient. I just did Brandon's yesterday and ran his to the DPFE sensor using a tee and 1" of vacuum line I snipped off the vacuum storage box. (Plenty of slack there as he didn't have any.)

Run your trans wire and your vacuum line thru the grommet above the gas pedal and then bundle the wire and zip tie it to your trans harness and run it down to the sensor.

Shouldn't have to say, but wiper cowl removal is your friend.

Simple and clean.



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

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[fastblackmerc]

When installing a trans temp gauge sender, is installing the sender in an aluminum pan an adequate ground, or is more needed? The instructions are vague when it comes to aluminum pans and grounding needs. It says it should be grounded when installed but does not mention aluminum pans or what the procedure is if you have one.

You will have sufficient ground when installing in the pan.

When using a boost gauge for manifold pressure vacuum, where is the best spot to tap into to monitor the vacuum?

When tapping into power for the gauges for lighting, including dimming, should I just tap into a dash lighting fuse, or is there a better place?

Since you are close to the headlight switch use the Orange / Black wire.

Instead of grinding off some paint and grounding to the chassis, or finding another misc black wire, is there a better method to ground the gauges?

There are a few place under the dash or the drivers side kick panel where there are already grounds from the factory. Use them.

BTW, Auto Meter could do a better job of including all the correct parts as promised (compression fittings were incorrect size) and better instructions since everyone is not a professional mechanic.

I'm sure Autometer's parts and instructions are generic... not Marauder specific.

See my answers.....

[tbone]

Thank you gentlemen.

[gdmjoe]

RF Overlord ... On a side note, you'll get a more accurate reading if you install it in the output line from the transmission to the cooler...that is where the fluid is hottest. AutoMeter makes a manifold specifically for that purpose.

http://www.gdmjoe.com/AutoMeterTemperatureManifold22 87.jpg
*Part # 2287

[tbone]

Yep, looked it up. But I'm going with Justbob's method. I really want to know the temp I'm right off the TC since I'm running a 2800-3200.

[MOTOWN]

Yep, looked it up. But I'm going with Justbob's method. I really want to know the temp I'm right off the TC since I'm running a 2800-3200.

Thats the way i ran my trans temp gauge very neat and clean install!

[Speed]

Trans sensor I mount in the testing hole that's plugged off drivers side right between the bell housing and the shift linkage. You will get a higher reading because this is where the fluid exits the converter so don't be alarmed."


I'm interest in going this route do have an image of your set up. Thanks

[justbob]

I'm interest in going this route do have an image of your set up. Thanks

Sorry I do not. I don't have a trans temp, I have just done a few installs for members.

You are looking for a small plug directly above the shifter linkage. Can't miss it.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Speed]

Got it thanks.:beer:

[tbone]

I used that fitting for my forced lube mod, so I installed it in the trans pan. Works great! Thanks for all the advice. No issues whatsoever.

[justbob]

I used that fitting for my forced lube mod, so I installed it in the trans pan. Works great! Thanks for all the advice. No issues whatsoever.

Gotcha. Next time just use a tee and run both. Quick, easy, no mess.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[jaywish]

Could I use that test port near the bell housing to drain the converter? I want to change the tranny fluid now that the car has hit 25Kmiles.

I miss the old converter drain plugs.

[fastblackmerc]

Could I use that test port near the bell housing to drain the converter? I want to change the tranny fluid now that the car has hit 25Kmiles.

I miss the old converter drain plugs.

The only ways to drain the convertor are:

1 - Remove the convertor

2 - Flush by machine or by hand.

[jaywish]

Will it drain if the motor is started after the pan is dropped?

[fastblackmerc]

Will it drain if the motor is started after the pan is dropped?

Probably, but then you run the risk of running the pump and tranny dry...... I assume you don't want a transmission repair in your future.

Either get it flushed or get a pan with a drain plug and drain the pan and refill with every other oil change.

[jaywish]

I just wish I knew someone I could trust to flush it. But I don't. Can anyone make a recommendation somewhere in the region of Yonkers?

The pan is a workable alternative.

[tbone]

Gotcha. Next time just use a tee and run both. Quick, easy, no mess.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Fat Bastard had the pan off anyway, so it was no big deal to drill and tap.

[tbone]

I just wish I knew someone I could trust to flush it. But I don't. Can anyone make a recommendation somewhere in the region of Yonkers?

The pan is a workable alternative.

Go to a Ford dealership.

[RF Overlord]

The pan is a workable alternative.If your fluid is not contaminated or oxidized now, then the drain & fill method suggested by FBM ^^^ is more than adequate to keep the fluid fresh.

[jaywish]

Fluid looks nice and clean, just want to keep it that way.

Thanks

[99SVT]

My trans temp sensor is mounted in an aluminum pan. It works good in that location. I can datalog the trans temp on the output with a programmer if i want. With it in the pan you can see if the cooler is adequate. I put a superduty cooler in to replace the stock one and couldn't get the temp above 120° until i installed a thermostat inline, now it stays at 150-160°.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997R using Tapatalk 2

[dmjarosz]

Trans sensor I mount in the testing hole that's plugged off drivers side right between the bell housing and the shift linkage. You will get a higher reading because this is where the fluid exits the converter so don't be alarmed.

How much higher and where does the fluid go next? I was going to install mine in a manifold on the cooling exit line but this seems like much less work.

[babbage]

My trans temp sensor is mounted in an aluminum pan. It works good in that location. I can datalog the trans temp on the output with a programmer if i want. With it in the pan you can see if the cooler is adequate. I put a superduty cooler in to replace the stock one and couldn't get the temp above 120° until i installed a thermostat inline, now it stays at 150-160°.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997R using Tapatalk 2

That is great setup you have! Mine usually never gets past 180° - I have seen low 190's in heat soaked hot rodding stop and go traffic, with my dual cooler setup. I have jmod, aluminum pan +2 quarts and an extra 22,000 btu cooler. Water temp when moving even on a 90+F day is 175°. :cool:

Who's T-stat are you using?

[babbage]

How much higher and where does the fluid go next? I was going to install mine in a manifold on the cooling exit line but this seems like much less work.

You guys realize that you can get a Scanguage II (site banner!) to monitor up to 4 things at once and you don't have to drill and tap anything! Reads the transmission fluid temp from the PCM which is internal (hotter than the pan). I have this I usually watch Trans temp, Water, MPH and RPM. Got it dash mounted all the way to the left.

They have Trans Fluid Temp in this pic 181 (perfect)

http://www.scangauge.com/wp-content/uploads/header_scangaugeii.jpg

http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugeii/