Kenne Bell Hobbs Switch

[loud2004marquis]

Anyone here using the hobbs switch with the BAP or just wiring it to constantly run?

Is there a preference or benefit to using the switch?
I would imagine the switch would be an additional thing to have a chance of breaking/malfunctioning, but I'm no expert.

[RF Overlord]

I plumbed the Hobbs switch supplied with my Trilogy kit into the line for the boost gauge. Supposedly set to turn on the BAP at 3.5 (or 5 ...can't remember) lbs of boost. My car transitions from vacuum to boost seamlessly, so I guess it's working properly.

[guspech750]

Same here. Mine is wired in to go on with boost.



Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[burt ragio]

I thought I read that by wiring it hot for some reason it can throw an occasional cell. Maybe some one can clarify this.

[Spectragod]

Mine is set up to operate at 3 pounds of boost.....

[03sport007]

I wired mine to be on constantly. It was what my tunner recomended. In my simple mind in made since for the FPDM to see a constant(higher) voltage. That way it would be easier for it to adjust the output for the fuel pump operation. I'm guessing that's why my tunner recomended it because it easier to tune that way. Note sure if it's better? No issues after 15k

[Spectragod]

Seen it done both ways, stock the HOBBS triggers @ 7 pounds, leaving it there, creates a big hiccup, between WOT and 7 pounds, at 3 it is seam less.

[loud2004marquis]

stock the HOBBS triggers @ 7 pounds, leaving it there, creates a big hiccup, between WOT and 7 pounds, at 3 it is seam less.

How did you set it up to trigger at 3?

[LANDY]

I have always wired the BAP to be o at all times. Never had a problem.

[Vortech347]

Every return-less car I've installed one on is done pre FPDM and wired at 100% with both the switch and the knob.