(Stock) Fuel Filter Replacement

[Donny Carlson]

I had the black beauty in the dealer for an oil change today, and the service dude told me they recommended changing both the air filter, fuel filter and "clean the injectors" at 15K. This and some other crap they can't perform (like an alignment and tire rotation) would set me back nearly two C notes. For like $50 worth of parts. I declined, then went to the parts department to buy an air filter replacement ($20, and they didn't have it in stock, which figured). But, hey, fuel filter at 15K? The maintenance manual says 30K and I've seen posts on here that say 25K. I'm betting the dealer is wanting to maximize profits by recommending filter changes at unnecessary intervals.

Which brings me to the point of this thread.... being mechanically retarded, is replacing the stock fuel filter within the capabilities of the average joe, i.e. can I do it, and what's involved or what tips can you offer me? I have this mental picture of spilling fuel all over the place and my car ending up looking like a briquette.:help:

Oh, I passed on the injector cleaning, too.

[bugsys03]

It is a pressurized fuel system so I would let a pro do it when needed. Certainly not a job for a 4 yr old;)

[cruzer]

Don't pay that for a filter :bounce: O'Reilley carries the Motorcraft filter just for our Marauders--have them look it up---then open the box and check that the filter itself is marked"FOR MARAUDER ONLY"--do not use any other "replacement" filter. Don't remember the price-hang on and I'll go get the number for you brb, Maury

[cruzer]

I have the filter in my hand--markings:
Ford Oval
HANN FILTER
3W33-9601-AB
Has"FOR MARAUDER ONLY"
Box lable:
Motorcraft FA-1745
Don't remember the exact cost, but it sure wasn't $ 20 :down: :down:
My car has 21,000 o it and I haven't spent much over 200--that includes 3,000 mi dealer oil changes and a tranny service (dropped pan and replaced filter, then backflushed). The fuel injector cleaning is not necessary ifyou use 93 octane--fuel filter, matter of choice--still have my original and pull 6,250 rpm with no problems--I realize that the service man gets points for sales, but they are taking it too far IMHO--Enjoy your Marauder :rock: Maury

[Marauderjack]

I have replaced numerous CV fuel filters and it can be messy!! :mad2:

I would do it outside in the open.....depressurize the system by opening the fuel fill cap.....remove the band that holds the filter to the frame.... pull the plastic retaining clips....pull hoses and install in reverse order. :)

It shouldn't be a problem but you will get gas on ya!!

I read somewhere that the fuel system on the MM does not have a loop return to the tank?? :confused: If that's true the filter should last much longer than on a CV where the fuel is constantly circulated!!

Marauderjack :D

[EbonyMarauder03]

Another thing to consider is how well your gas station takes care of the filters in the pumps? Obviously if you go to a station that looks like they care you shouldn't have to change your own filter too often, but if you get stuck stopping at dives you may want to consider changing yours more often.

Another tip on fuel filter changes is to locate the fuel pump relay and pull it out and crank the car until it doesn't run. This will relieve system pressure. Removing the gas cap relieves tank pressure. Together they will ease the mess. If you can't find the fuel pump relay you can unhook the inertia switch in the truck. Power to the fuel pump runs through this also. Most importantly...KEEP YOUR MOUTH CLOSED,WEAR SAFETY GLASSES and NO SMOKING. When you're done reconnect the inertia switch or reinsert the fuel pump relay, whichever you used to deenergize the fuel pump and cycle the key to build pressure back up in the system. Crank the car to start it. It may not catch the first time since you need to prime the fuel rail and injectors.

I know it's drawn out but you can do it yourself. You can wait until 30,000 miles. Ford recommends more or less a major tune up then. Air, fuel, oil filters, pcv valve, drain and flush the cooling system, change the trans filter and fluid or flush (dealer or customer choice). Some dealers do recommend air and fuel filters at 15k depending on Ford. At my dealer they started doing air and fuel filters the beginning of this year. It looks more like Ford pushing their dealers to sell more of Dearborn's parts. :bs:

[RF Overlord]

Replacing the fuel filter is easy, just like Marauderjack said:


do it outside in the open.....depressurize the system...remove the band that holds the filter to the frame...pull the plastic retaining clips...pull hoses and install in reverse order.

Oh yeah...as Ebony said: "wear safetly glasses"...a little gas will always spill...

Depending on your environmental conditions, replacing the air filter at 15k is not too soon, and it's good insurance...same for the fuel filter; it's inexpensive and easy to do while you already have the car on the ramps for an oil change, although the more "normal" interval is closer to 25-30k.

OTOH, you were smart to pass on the injector cleaning...it's a waste of money. Most good brands of fuel already have a detergent additive package, so a separate injector cleaner operation is unnecessary; but if you want a little extra protection, just add a bottle of Gumout Fuel Injector Cleaner or Techron twice a year...

[martyo]

When you do the air filter, be sure to wipe the air box clean. You would be surprised how much road dirt accumulates in their in a very small period of time.

[TripleTransAm]

Here's something I always do as well, but only because I tend to get nice static sparks now and again getting in and out of vehicles like my Marauder and my Civic depending on what I'm wearing... I grab a ground strap and clip myself to a metal part of some kind (usually brake cable or hood hinge or something not easily visible and not painted). I haven't done the Marauder's filter yet, so I can't recommend any such point yet.

Call me anal... (others have called me worse)... but I don't have the luxury of working in a super airy well ventilated multi-bay dealership garage when doing this, so I don't want any static spark happening at the wrong time.

[03SILVERSTREAK]

I had the black beauty in the dealer for an oil change today, and the service dude told me they recommended changing both the air filter, fuel filter and "clean the injectors" at 15K. This and some other crap they can't perform (like an alignment and tire rotation) would set me back nearly two C notes. For like $50 worth of parts. I declined, then went to the parts department to buy an air filter replacement ($20, and they didn't have it in stock, which figured). But, hey, fuel filter at 15K? The maintenance manual says 30K and I've seen posts on here that say 25K. I'm betting the dealer is wanting to maximize profits by recommending filter changes at unnecessary intervals.

Which brings me to the point of this thread.... being mechanically retarded, is replacing the stock fuel filter within the capabilities of the average joe, i.e. can I do it, and what's involved or what tips can you offer me? I have this mental picture of spilling fuel all over the place and my car ending up looking like a briquette.:help:Well today was picture perfect day for the upgraded fuel filter . I ordered the bracket and the FG800A Ford/Motorcraft fuel filter . I went under the car and disconnected the fuel lines that were connected to the filter in which some fuel will jet out for a brief 2-3 seconds , the fuel filter started to spill fuel so as MAC said I used an empty coffee can and drained the filter and caught the leaking fuel from both lines . next I removed the old filter from the bracket and removed the bracket . I then marked the bracket so I can drill a hole and mount the new bracket on top of it . I then placed the newer/Larger filter into the bracket and bolted up the modified bracket back in its place . If anyone goe's through with this , becareful as the high pressure hoses are slighty short with this filter and becomes difficult to install , but not impossible . "NOTE"- when you remove the fuel lines on the filter be aware that you must slighty pull the plastic Holding clips out first so the ends release the filter , But be careful as the clips while doing the Prior removal broke into two pieces . I placed half the clips back after the new install and drove to the dealership were I had to purchase new clips at 7.00 a piece . The Results- well I can tell you that the overall WOT has improved and the 3-4 second lag while at WOT is gone with a continuous climb in RPM . BTW- while buying the clips one of the service reps asked if the mod improved the RPM lag and I told him yes . he then tells me that they have been doing a simular Fuel mod like the one here on the CVPI for several years now due to the interceptors having a lean fuel problem at WOT during high speed acceleration and blowing their head Gaskets and Ford has known about this problem and have done nothing to remedy it . will post Pics in the Gallery . O and thank you Dennis for this Fuel Mod... :up:

[RF Overlord]

I ordered the bracket and the FG800A Ford/Motorcraft fuel filter.

STREAK: I've done a search, but I must not be doing something right...

Can you post the P/N and cost for the bracket, again?

Danke Schöen

[03SILVERSTREAK]

STREAK: I've done a search, but I must not be doing something right...

Can you post the P/N and cost for the bracket, again?

Danke SchöenRF-here is what you requested .
Bracket assembly for the Fuel Filter-Part # F57Z-9A335-A (17.80)
Fuel Filter-Part # E7DZ-9155-A or (FG-800-A) (15.76)
Fuel Hose Clips (2) Part # 2F1Z-9A317-AA (12.80)-They cut me a break...
(NOTE- You don't need the Fuel Hose Clips unless they break during the removal of the hose from the old fuel filter ) .

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Well today was picture perfect day for the upgraded fuel filter . I ordered the bracket and the FG800A Ford/Motorcraft fuel filter . I went under the car and disconnected the fuel lines that were connected to the filter in which some fuel will jet out for a brief 2-3 seconds , the fuel filter started to spill fuel so as MAC said I used an empty coffee can and drained the filter and caught the leaking fuel from both lines . next I removed the old filter from the bracket and removed the bracket . I then marked the bracket so I can drill a hole and mount the new bracket on top of it . I then placed the newer/Larger filter into the bracket and bolted up the modified bracket back in its place . If anyone goe's through with this , becareful as the high pressure hoses are slighty short with this filter and becomes difficult to install , but not impossible . "NOTE"- when you remove the fuel lines on the filter be aware that you must slighty pull the plastic Holding clips out first so the ends release the filter , But be careful as the clips while doing the Prior removal broke into two pieces . I placed half the clips back after the new install and drove to the dealership were I had to purchase new clips at 7.00 a piece . The Results- well I can tell you that the overall WOT has improved and the 3-4 second lag while at WOT is gone with a continuous climb in RPM . BTW- while buying the clips one of the service reps asked if the mod improved the RPM lag and I told him yes . he then tells me that they have been doing a simular Fuel mod like the one here on the CVPI for several years now due to the interceptors having a lean fuel problem at WOT during high speed acceleration and blowing their head Gaskets and Ford has known about this problem and have done nothing to remedy it . will post Pics in the Gallery . O and thank you Dennis for this Fuel Mod... :up:
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/1109Mounted_F_F_-3-med.JPG[img]http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/1109Upgrade_Fuel_Filter_Kit-med.JPG

[RF Overlord]

Thanks, streak! :up:

I thought installing the oversize filter also required new ends on the fuel lines, but this is even better...I am so there, dude... :D

[CRUZTAKER]

Hey! Thanks to all on this one. I change my air filter faithfully every 10k and I wanted to get into the routine of doing the fuel filter every 15k.

Hey it can't hurt, right? And oversized...I really like that as well. Thanks 03SS.

[FordNut]

RF-here is what you requested .
Bracket assembly for the Fuel Filter-Part # F57Z-9A335-A (17.80)
Fuel Filter-Part # E7DZ-9155-A or (FG-800-A) (15.76)
Fuel Hose Clips (2) Part # 2F1Z-9A317-AA (12.80)-They cut me a break...
(NOTE- You don't need the Fuel Hose Clips unless they break during the removal of the hose from the old fuel filter ) .

I broke my clips also, but found that the ones that come with the FG-800-A could be used with some slight mods. They are too thick to fit in the new connecting fittings, but it only takes a second or two on a bench grinder to have them down to the right thickness.

And the mounting process I used was slightly different. I cut off part of the original bracket with a hacksaw, then drilled a hole for the bolt and cut a notch for the tab. I then mashed the tab flat in a vise. I guess I should have taken pics while I was doing it, maybe tomorrow I can take some pics of the installed product.

[Marauderjack]

I did this mod and was lucky enough not to break the clips!! :rock:

I removed the old filter bracket and drilled a couple of holes to mount the new one and it looks like it came that way!! :up:

I noticed that it seems to pull harder at 5000+ RPM's but I think it is because I WANT TO FEEL A DIFFERENCE??!! :bows:

I have often wondered about fuel starvation at high RPM's and wonder what the WOT gallons per hour figures are for this engine both NA and S/C ?? :confused:

I know that a 454 Chevy boat engine with a 4 BBL will burn about 30 GPH at WOT.....Most fuel pumps will supply several hundred GPH....So, what's the problem with our electric pumps??? Must be a pressure drop to the injectors making a momentary lean condition and not so much volume related??? :confused:

Comments......Flame suit is ON!!! :flamer:

Marauderjack :pimp:

[woaface]

After reading this, I'd go and change my own fuel filter, but I need tranny fluid replaced and the 30k service on the axle (some kind of greese on the bearings or such? Oh, I'm 1k over for an oil change too...So I'll just go to my favorite garage:)

[03SILVERSTREAK]

http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/1109Mounted_F_F_-3-med.JPG[img]http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/1109Upgrade_Fuel_Filter_Kit-med.JPGHas anyone else followed up and done this Mod ? because if you haven,t your missing out on a simple fix of Fuel lean on your N/A Marauder during WOT...

[RF Overlord]

Has anyone else followed up and done this Mod ? because if you haven,t your missing out on a simple fix of Fuel lean on your N/A Marauder during WOT...

I just did it last weekend...thanks again, 03SS...!

This might be a good place to mention that anyone doing this mod will probably get a check engine light, as I and apparently quite a few others did...it's normal (as I found out later after panicking) and can be cleared for free at any AutoZone...

[Marauderjack]

Wonder why a new fuel filter would throw a CE light?? :(

Mine has been fine for a month or so!! :D

Marauderjack :D

[RF Overlord]

Wonder why a new fuel filter would throw a CE light??

jack:

I think this only applies if you change to the much larger FG-800A filter...it has something to do with the extra air that gets trapped or the time it takes the fuel pump to re-pressurise the system...Marauder8, who is going to be installing my 4.10s and Cobra exhaust next week, cleared the code for the Bunny Lady, so I wasn't there to see exactly which code gets set...anyone?

[Marauderjack]

I put in the 800A and never got a CE light....YET?? :confused:

Marauderjack :D

[03SILVERSTREAK]

jack:

I think this only applies if you change to the much larger FG-800A filter...it has something to do with the extra air that gets trapped or the time it takes the fuel pump to re-pressurise the system...Marauder8, who is going to be installing my 4.10s and Cobra exhaust next week, cleared the code for the Bunny Lady, so I wasn't there to see exactly which code gets set...anyone?Don't worry-it also happened to me and it was due to air as well . I also cleared it with the Supertuner...

[CRUZTAKER]

May one clear this code by merely pulling the battery cable for awhile AFTER the light has come on?

[cruzer]

I am having my filter replaced next week at John Eagle in Dallas-=--an SVT shop--an hope to change to 800A filter. I have a DR flash---will they mess up my flash if I get the light? :help: :confused:

[CRUZTAKER]

Maury, just advise them NOT to goof with the EEC, or just tell them you have a flash, they'll understand.

Although no one answered me, we may be able to clear the code with the battery. If not, go to autozone...

[purelux]

I did the upgrade on my 98 towncar I didn't get a code but did have to feather the throttle a bit to get and keep it running at first. The car seems to idle a bit quieter and lower rpm's not sure if it actually does it may just due to a almost 2 year old filter getting changed out though. I did get a descent amount of water and carbon out the pipes for a little while though when I revved it. It does seem to be a bit more responsive though espiaclly if I give it a good amount of throttle from a very low speed or standstill. Where as it used to seem to lag until the rpms' picked up.

[RF Overlord]

Although no one answered me, we may be able to clear the code with the battery. If not, go to autozone...

Barry:

In my "Check Engine Light" thread, drobin stated that he had the same issue (CEL after filter upgrade) and cleared it by pulling the PCM fuse...

Also, the owner's manual says that it should clear itself "after 3 driving cycles"...


will they mess up my flash if I get the light?

Maury:

No, clearing codes is a separate function...as long as they simply CLEAR it and don't do a complete reflash...but others have had problems with dealers doing a reflash without asking, so take Barry's advice and TELL them specifically NOT to...

[warren]

I agree at WOT we need fuel.
The FG800 indeed is larger however it has the same in and out size as the
stock filter.
I took a tappered pin punch 12" long and brought the ends that are curved
in, back out. Not to much as I did not want to score the ring seals with a sharp
edge - I just wanted more flow by making the hole wider and closer to ID.

Also I am looking at the Boost-A-Pump as a solution for my N/A MM.

Dennis R. can get the above and also has a bigger ID filter available
as a kit for us and a replacement fuel pump as well.

WarrenB:burnout:

[duhtroll]

OK so if it eliminates the time lag, has anyone taken it to a g-timer or track and verified an ET drop 0-60 or in the 1/4?

Inquiring minds want to know. I'm all over this if it works!

:)

Thanks,
-A

[Smokie]

I just recently took my car in for an oil change and they recommended changing the fuel filter and doing the injector cleaning. I gave them the ok and paid $145.

Do I think there was anything wrong with my fuel filter and injectors? No there wasn't, there was nothing wrong with my oil and oil filter either (3000 miles old). My point is that this service facility is where my MM. gets taken care of.

When I take it in for warranty service there is no "they all do that" or "lets wait until it gets worse" If I say " I think there is something wrong here " THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG and parts get changed or services performed, no hassles, no fights...just done.

Thats why I paid the $145.

[MENINBLK]

Does anyone have part numbers for STRAIGHT FUEL LINE COUPLERS instead of using the original 90deg couplers ?
I've searched and I can't find these numbers anywhere...

[Scott Leininger]

Has anyone who has doen this mod noticed an inprovement in the acceleration. MY 04 MM and 00 cvpi both seem to hit a flat spot between 40 and 50 mph under WOT. Has anyone noticed if this helps with this flat spot??

[jaywish]

Hi Pete,

I believe Dennis R. or Logan detailed a fuel filter Mod which eliminated the 90degree fittings.

Maybe that was around last winter possibly spring.

Jay


Does anyone have part numbers for STRAIGHT FUEL LINE COUPLERS instead of using the original 90deg couplers ?
I've searched and I can't find these numbers anywhere...

[BK_GrandMarquis]

Hi Pete,

I believe Dennis R. or Logan detailed a fuel filter Mod which eliminated the 90degree fittings.

Maybe that was around last winter possibly spring.

JayDennis has a mod for this. I have it on my Grand Marquis. It's not cheap though. It was around $220 or $250. The kit had a high flow fuel filter with a replaceable filter element. It used a couple of stainless steel braided lines. You had to cut the existing line to get rid of the bends. It used two compression washers to seal the lines. The hardest part was cutting the lines and scrapping off the paint. The fittings are a very tight fit. Just a little paint on the OEM lines and you won't be able to slide the fittings on. I have a couple of pics on my SuperFord site.

I felt an improved pedal response but that may just be because I spent $200+ and wanted to feel like it did something. :lol:

[MENINBLK]

Dennis' idea is good, but expensive at over $200.

I an looking to just cut off the 90deg bends and push in a straight coupler.
The couplers are only pressed into the fuel line, and at worst would need a hose clamp to hold them in place.

I am not looking to flip the car over at a show and let everyone see how pretty it looks.
I just want to get the larger fuel filter in place and get rid of the bends in the line, so the fuel hose isn't under any additional stress.

[jaywish]

Pete,

We could cut back the lines, double flare connect an additional piece of tube to get the line length correct. Followed with a gentle bend and fittings for the filter.

I don't know what kind of fittings come with whatever filter you wanted to use but I believe that the late 80's Ford straight fittings (my 89 5.0 Marquis) just sliped on over a straight cut fuel line. Which is really easy.

I'd have to compare fuel line pressures to see if that would work.

Any thoughts on this folks?

Jay

[MENINBLK]

Pete,

We could cut back the lines, double flare connect an additional piece of tube to get the line length correct. Followed with a gentle bend and fittings for the filter.

I don't know what kind of fittings come with whatever filter you wanted to use but I believe that the late 80's Ford straight fittings (my 89 5.0 Marquis) just sliped on over a straight cut fuel line. Which is really easy.

I'd have to compare fuel line pressures to see if that would work.

Any thoughts on this folks?

Jay

Jay,

That's too much work.
The couplings simply allow you to slip the end of the filter into the line,
and there is a retaining clip inside the coupler, that grabs the lip on the edge of the filter line.
There is plenty of fuel hose at the site of the filter,
I just want to cut out the bend, and insert a dead on coupler into the fuel hose...

There has to be other cars with straight couplers used on the fuel filter.
All we need is one with the same size fuel line and we are set.

[FordNut]

I believe frdwrnch changed to the straight connectors, look him up and check for part numbers. Post them if you get them.

[Dennis Reinhart]

[QUOTE=03SILVERSTREAK]http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/1109Mounted_F_F_-3-med.JPG

I originally tried this but after talking to Jerry and Paul at PHP they both felt the big restiction is the 90 degree bends on inlet and out let thats why I went with the Kinsler Fuel filter and braided lines. I will post a picture of this later on.

[Dennis Reinhart]

[QUOTE=03SILVERSTREAK]http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/1109Mounted_F_F_-3-med.JPG

I originally tried this but after talking to Jerry and Paul at PHP they both felt the big restiction is the 90 degree bends on inlet and out let thats why I went with the Kinsler Fuel filter and braided lines. I will post a picture of this later on.http://web.iwebcenters.com/reinhartautomotive/images/session/00-00-1104602288-filterinstalled.jpg

[cyclone03]

Jay,

That's too much work.
The couplings simply allow you to slip the end of the filter into the line,
and there is a retaining clip inside the coupler, that grabs the lip on the edge of the filter line.
There is plenty of fuel hose at the site of the filter,
I just want to cut out the bend, and insert a dead on coupler into the fuel hose...

There has to be other cars with straight couplers used on the fuel filter.
All we need is one with the same size fuel line and we are set.

I was at NAPA the other day just poking around and they had replacement strait connectors with about a 12" hose pre attached.The instructions said to heat the open end in HoT(boiling?) water for 10min then slip over the hard line and cool for 30mins.
About $12 each I think.

[FordNut]

I was at NAPA the other day just poking around and they had replacement strait connectors with about a 12" hose pre attached.The instructions said to heat the open end in HoT(boiling?) water for 10min then slip over the hard line and cool for 30mins.
About $12 each I think.
Were they hanging on a shelf or behind the counter? Got a part number? Thanks for the heads up.

[sfsv]

:)As a FLM certified service advisor I am advising you that changing the fuel filter at 15k miles is early, unless you feel that you have gotten a poor quality tank of fuel. I tell all of my clients to follow the factory recommended service intervals and get the service done at the dealership to maintain their records. When someone is trying to oversell a schedule maintenance to you, you should just present your schedule maintenance guide and tell them this is what you follow. If they blow you off, find yourself an ethical service advisor and build a relationship with them. By the way, it does not hurt to take care of the service advisors lunch if they are treating you right and being fair with you. As for as fuel injector cleaning, the panther chassis cars have not had a high instance of injectors failing or clogging since 1991. There are some present FMC products that have a problem with injectors clogging up, but your MM is not one of them. I actually have Town Cars that I service that have over 300,000 miles on them and I have never cleaned the injectors.
I had the black beauty in the dealer for an oil change today, and the service dude told me they recommended changing both the air filter, fuel filter and "clean the injectors" at 15K. This and some other crap they can't perform (like an alignment and tire rotation) would set me back nearly two C notes. For like $50 worth of parts. I declined, then went to the parts department to buy an air filter replacement ($20, and they didn't have it in stock, which figured). But, hey, fuel filter at 15K? The maintenance manual says 30K and I've seen posts on here that say 25K. I'm betting the dealer is wanting to maximize profits by recommending filter changes at unnecessary intervals.

Which brings me to the point of this thread.... being mechanically retarded, is replacing the stock fuel filter within the capabilities of the average joe, i.e. can I do it, and what's involved or what tips can you offer me? I have this mental picture of spilling fuel all over the place and my car ending up looking like a briquette.:help:

Oh, I passed on the injector cleaning, too.

[Dennis Reinhart]

I was at NAPA the other day just poking around and they had replacement strait connectors with about a 12" hose pre attached.The instructions said to heat the open end in HoT(boiling?) water for 10min then slip over the hard line and cool for 30mins.
About $12 each I think.
Without seeing this its tough to comment on, but the plastic flexible line is a permanent part of the steel line, I am not sure how you can attach a plastic replacement line to a steel line, the lines that run down the rail are steel, we cut out the plastic and install braided steel. So it would be nice to see a picture of this.