Transmission crossmember

[Blk04MM]

HOW MANY BOLTS ARE IN THIS THING.

I took two out both ends and two nuts out the center. it still won't budge. I've drenched it in WD40

Any tips??

[Comin' in Hot]

you got them all.... when the frame bolts are tightened it clamps around the crossmember. It's a ***** to remove. a slide hammer is your friend.

[Blk04MM]

you got them all.... when the frame bolts are tightened it clamps around the crossmember. It's a ***** to remove. a slide hammer is your friend.

It's definitely a :censor: and its on jack stands. :shake:

[MOTOWN]

I had mines towed to a trans shop, and they put it on the lift and used a 6ft pry bar, and even then he had to hang in mid air on it!

[License2Bill]

I remember JustBob saying that it is a PITA especially the first time you try and remove it. Good luck!

[Comin' in Hot]

I removed mine when the car was on jackstands, I used 6 just incase the car shifted and I had wood cribbing up to the framerail height just incase I knocked the car off a stand bc it was definitely rocking the car using breakerbars....

[Blk04MM]

I had mines towed to a trans shop, and they put it on the lift and used a 6ft pry bar, and even then he had to hang in mid air on it!

:shake: wtf did ford think the trans would fall out while driving down the road? Why couldn't it be normal like every other trans.

I might hit the trans shop tomorrow this sucks


I remember JustBob saying that it is a PITA especially the first time you try and remove it. Good luck!

Definitely


I removed mine when the car was on jackstands, I used 6 just incase the car shifted and I had wood cribbing up to the framerail height just incase I knocked the car off a stand bc it was definitely rocking the car using breakerbars....

I may need longer breaker/pry bars.

[cougar9150]

I slid a 2x4 in the end of mine an beat it out with a BFH after soaking it down with PB blaster.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[fastblackmerc]

Don't know why you need to use PBlaster since the cross member is wedged in?

How about loosening the frame to body bolts?

[Marauderjack]

When the guy rebuilt my transmission he swore the cross member was welded in!!:eek:

It took them 2 hours to get it out but he fixed it so it would come out easy next time.......did not ask how!!:shake:

[Blk04MM]

I slid a 2x4 in the end of mine an beat it out with a BFH after soaking it down with PB blaster.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

I'm using a 36" pry bar. JUMPING on it and this :censor: won't budge :mad:


Don't know why you need to use PBlaster since the cross member is wedged in?

How about loosening the frame to body bolts?

Ok, How will that help? Isn't the pressure in between the wedge these idiots pressed it into?

If only the motor was as strong as this :censor: it'll be indestructible



When the guy rebuilt my transmission he swore the cross member was welded in!!:eek:

It took them 2 hours to get it out but he fixed it so it would come out easy next time.......did not ask how!!:shake:

2hours?! IM ON THE SECOND :censor: DAY

[yjmud]

I saw the video from car craft and it was stupid the time and energy it took

[tbone]

My trans guy removed mine 4 times, so it should be easy from now on. ;)

[cougar9150]

Don't know why you need to use PBlaster since the cross member is wedged in?

How about loosening the frame to body bolts?

Because lubrication helps stuff move when it's wedged into tight spots. I've only been an industrial mechanic for 16 years or so I may be wrong in the theory that penetrating lube helps things move or break loose. I know it works well when I'm tearing down a 20 year old packaging machine to rebuild.

Have you ever dropped the crossmember on a 03 and up Panther. I've done it on at least 10 different MMs and newer CVs and this is pretty much how all of them went.

Not sure how loosening the frame to body bolts would help at all to tell you the truth.

I normally support the transmission, remove your cross member to frame bolts. Remove your trans mount to crossmember bolts. Spray penetrating lube on either end and pry like hell till come out, or try sliding the 2x4 in the end and using it as a hammer point. A 5 pound sledge works pretty good here.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[babbage]

Edit: ^^^ What he said too.


I'm using a 36" pry bar. JUMPING on it and this :censor: won't budge :mad:


Your doing it wrong? Pry bar should be used as a lever. Put a big block of wood above xmember against body, one end pushes against the wood, the other against xmember. Pull the pry bar down so its tight and tap it with a 10 pound hammer...

Take a butane torch and heat up the the two mating areas. two big bolts on each side have been removed right?

[fastblackmerc]

Because lubrication helps stuff move when it's wedged into tight spots. I've only been an industrial mechanic for 16 years or so I may be wrong in the theory that penetrating lube helps things move or break loose. I know it works well when I'm tearing down a 20 year old packaging machine to rebuild.

Have you ever dropped the crossmember on a 03 and up Panther. I've done it on at least 10 different MMs and newer CVs and this is pretty much how all of them went.

Not sure how loosening the frame to body bolts would help at all to tell you the truth.

I normally support the transmission, remove your cross member to frame bolts. Remove your trans mount to crossmember bolts. Spray penetrating lube on either end and pry like hell till come out, or try sliding the 2x4 in the end and using it as a hammer point. A 5 pound sledge works pretty good here.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

I understand the lubrication thing but I'd think it would be easier to loosen all the body to frame bolts so the cross member isn't wedged in.

BTW... packaging equipment? Mind if I ask who you work for? PM is OK if you don't want it known here....

[Blk04MM]

Edit: ^^^ What he said too.


I'm using a 36" pry bar. JUMPING on it and this :censor: won't budge :mad:


Your doing it wrong? Pry bar should be used as a lever. Put a big block of wood above xmember against body, one end pushes against the wood, the other against xmember. Pull the pry bar down so its tight and tap it with a 10 pound hammer...

Take a butane torch and heat up the the two mating areas. two big bolts on each side have been removed right?

Tried that. The body under the car just flexes there isn't any real harden spots to use under the car.

[Blk04MM]

Because lubrication helps stuff move when it's wedged into tight spots. I've only been an industrial mechanic for 16 years or so I may be wrong in the theory that penetrating lube helps things move or break loose. I know it works well when I'm tearing down a 20 year old packaging machine to rebuild.

Have you ever dropped the crossmember on a 03 and up Panther. I've done it on at least 10 different MMs and newer CVs and this is pretty much how all of them went.

Not sure how loosening the frame to body bolts would help at all to tell you the truth.

I normally support the transmission, remove your cross member to frame bolts. Remove your trans mount to crossmember bolts. Spray penetrating lube on either end and pry like hell till come out, or try sliding the 2x4 in the end and using it as a hammer point. A 5 pound sledge works pretty good here.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2



So I'm wasting my time with WD40?

[babbage]

Tried that. The body under the car just flexes there isn't any real harden spots to use under the car.

that's why you use a big piece of wood, much larger surface area than the end of the prybar.. I remember being able to pry it out by pushing on metal near the edge.

Heat the outer area that xmember butts up against for 30 seconds. Then pry it right out. Perhaps I'm stronger than most. In the words of Roy D. Mercer 'How big a boy are ya' ?

;)

[babbage]

So I'm wasting my time with WD40?

Not really. PB Blaster is caustic, it will EAT thru a pastic cup. WD-40 will not.

If the xmember is rusted to the fame connection point either would help. PB Blaster is much more aggressive.

[Blackened300a]

Hahahahaha. I remember the issues I had on the parts car. I used 2 pry bars and worked it from left to right. I also used a pinch bar and a big hammer to try and expand the cross member bracket so it would have some wiggle room. If you see a hint of rust smoke while prying ,then you know you are making progress.

[Blk04MM]

that's why you use a big piece of wood, much larger surface area than the end of the prybar.. I remember being able to pry it out by pushing on metal near the edge.

Heat the outer area that xmember butts up against for 30 seconds. Then pry it right out. Perhaps I'm stronger than most. In the words of Roy D. Mercer 'How big a boy are ya' ?

;)




Hahahahaha. I remember the issues I had on the parts car. I used 2 pry bars and worked it from left to right. I also used a pinch bar and a big hammer to try and expand the cross member bracket so it would have some wiggle room. If you see a hint of rust smoke while prying ,then you know you are making progress.


Got one side out but it only dropped like a inch. Maybe inch and a half.
Dumb question but Does the exhaust have to be dropped?? :confused:

[Curless]

Spent about a half an hour getting GIGAN's trans out Wednesday...I have a hoist though and a very LARGE pry bar! That prick was rusted right in there...Anyone attempting this on your back in a garage....I pitty you!

[justbob]

PM sent....


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[MOTOWN]

Spent about a half an hour getting GIGAN's trans out Wednesday...I have a hoist though and a very LARGE pry bar! That prick was rusted right in there...Anyone attempting this on your back in a garage....I pitty you!

A Biggggg +1 not to mention its dangerous on jack stands since the entire car will be moving!:eek:

[Blk04MM]

Spent about a half an hour getting GIGAN's trans out Wednesday...I have a hoist though and a very LARGE pry bar! That prick was rusted right in there...Anyone attempting this on your back in a garage....I pitty you!

That'll be me ..


PM sent....


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Replied


A Biggggg +1 not to mention its dangerous on jack stands since the entire car will be moving!:eek:


Well I've done most of the work like this I'm just tired of wrestling with it. About to send it to shop smh don't wana hear the cost they will tell me.

[Blk04MM]

Anyone had to drop their exhaust to remove the crossmember

[MOTOWN]

Anyone had to drop their exhaust to remove the crossmember

No not required to remove the Xmember

[MOTOWN]

That'll be me ..



Replied




Well I've done most of the work like this I'm just tired of wrestling with it. About to send it to shop smh don't wana hear the cost they will tell me.

They didnt charge me a dime!:burnout:

[Blk04MM]

No not required to remove the Xmember

Well with one side out it didn't even drop low enough for the xmember to clear the bolts from the two center nuts :confused::mad:
I haven't played with the other side yet because I'm stuck on how will this work when the one side won't clear


They didnt charge me a dime!:burnout:

I need that kind of service

[MOTOWN]

Well with one side out it didn't even drop low enough for the xmember to clear the bolts from the two center nuts :confused::mad:
I haven't played with the other side yet because I'm stuck on how will this work when the one side won't clear



I need that kind of service

If your doing this to remove the tailshaft leave a bolt in one side, so when you re install the Xmember it will be a lot easier to line up.

[Curless]

For those of you who are going to attempt this on the ground....I had a good friend and customer killed a few years ago from his car dropping on him...crushed him to death in his own driveway. He was here the day before and asked me to swap his converter...I could not get him in that week so he went home and tried it himself...he died right there. He had 4 good jackstands and a jack under the car but it still got him. ITS NOT WORTH IT. Most shops charge $300 to $400 to R&R a trans...ITS NOT WORTH THE RISK. If you are going to do it, be damn sure you have stands that are good welded ones not Sams club garbage....Rest in Peace Shawn.....

[Blk04MM]

If your doing this to remove the tailshaft leave a bolt in one side, so when you re install the Xmember it will be a lot easier to line up.

I'm trying to remove the TS housing. The one side that is dropped is laying on top of the exhaust with no more room to drop. What next? :confused:



For those of you who are going to attempt this on the ground....I had a good friend and customer killed a few years ago from his car dropping on him...crushed him to death in his own driveway. He was here the day before and asked me to swap his converter...I could not get him in that week so he went home and tried it himself...he died right there. He had 4 good jackstands and a jack under the car but it still got him. ITS NOT WORTH IT. Most shops charge $300 to $400 to R&R a trans...ITS NOT WORTH THE RISK. If you are going to do it, be damn sure you have stands that are good welded ones not Sams club garbage....Rest in Peace Shawn.....


Sorry to hear about your friend. I believe these are good enough. I have a jack under the rear as well. Might go and buy those ramps drive the front up then jack the back up to place ramps under.

[MOTOWN]

If the Xmember is laying on the exhaust you should have enuff room the pull the tailshaft out.

And Curless is right its not worth it on jack stands, i would have been to the trans shop , and back by now.

Please be very careful and have somebody out there with you incase you need help.

[Blk04MM]

If the Xmember is laying on the exhaust you should have enuff room the pull the tailshaft out.

And Curless is right its not worth it on jack stands, i would have been to the trans shop , and back by now.

Please be very careful and have somebody out there with you incase you need help.

TS been out before the XMember was even touched. We're trying to replace his TS housing.

[MOTOWN]

TS been out before the XMember was even touched. We're trying to replace his TS housing.

Ummmm ok the same clearance used to remove it, should be used to install it:confused:

[Blk04MM]

Ummmm ok the same clearance used to remove it, should be used to install it:confused:

It's the original one in there. Gota drop the trans to R&R a TS housing??

[MOTOWN]

TS been out before the XMember was even touched. We're trying to replace his TS housing.


It's the original one in there. Gota drop the trans to R&R a TS housing??

Didnt you just say its been out:confused: and no the trans doesnt have to come out, just lower the Xmember and remove the TS.

If your struggling with this just tow it to a trans shop and be done with it.

[Blk04MM]

We've got most of the bolts out. All but one on the housing and the two bigger bolts that face downward on the bottom... Those are a ***** with the Xmember in the way.

[Blk04MM]

Didnt you just say its been out:confused: and no the trans doesnt have to come out, just lower the Xmember and remove the TS.

If your struggling with this just tow it to a trans shop and be done with it.

Meant DS.... Typo.

[MOTOWN]

Meant DS.... Typo.

Ahhhh i see;)

[Blk04MM]

Ahhhh i see;)

Aggravation setting in. Taking a few hours away from this. I'd like to dropkick the person square in the face who decided to have the XMember pressed in. I know for my car when I go stall I'm definitely not touching it. And I'll be sure to have them shave the :censor: out the ends to go back in easy.

[MOTOWN]

Aggravation setting in. Taking a few hours away from this. I'd like to dropkick the person square in the face who decided to have the XMember pressed in. I know for my car when I go stall I'm definitely not touching it. And I'll be sure to have them shave the :censor: out the ends to go back in easy.

This is good wrenching experience for you GRASSHOPPER be patient! LMAO:lol:

[Blk04MM]

This is good wrenching experience for you GRASSHOPPER be patient! LMAO:lol:

:blah: lol

[Comin' in Hot]

cross member removal, cam cover swaps, and fuel tank straps are marauder rights of passage

[Marauderjack]

cross member removal, cam cover swaps, and fuel tank straps are marauder rights of passage

AMEN!!!!!!:o

[Blk04MM]

cross member removal, cam cover swaps, and fuel tank straps are marauder rights of passage

Definitely the hardest tooling I've done on a marauder so far.

[Comin' in Hot]

It's the easiest of the three, unless you know the trick for tank straps... I have to do a how to for them

[MOTOWN]

It's the easiest of the three, unless you know the trick for tank straps... I have to do a how to for them

Just think you get to have this fun all over again when you install the GEARVENDORS!:beer:

[Comin' in Hot]

Just think you get to have this fun all over again when you install the GEARVENDORS!:beer:

I'm dreading it!!!!

[Blk04MM]

The easier? lol well i wont be doing the other two. Have no meed or desire to. After I bought the 36" pry bar the job got fairly easier. I used it as a wedge from the driver side to the top portion of the member on the passenger side. Wedged it, hammered it in and POP it came out. Should've did that from the start but it's a learning process so I can accept the frustration for knowledge.

Now Gota work on the TS housing coming out.

[Comin' in Hot]

The good news is the tail shaft housing is straight forward and like 6 bolts

[Blk04MM]

The good news is the tail shaft housing is straight forward and like 6 bolts

Yeah but without the xmember coming all the way out its a :censor: trying to get the two bottom bolts out that face down. I believe they mount the TH to the mount (I may be wrong) I just know its the two that face down toward the ground

[cougar9150]

I understand the lubrication thing but I'd think it would be easier to loosen all the body to frame bolts so the cross member isn't wedged in.

BTW... packaging equipment? Mind if I ask who you work for? PM is OK if you don't want it known here....

I work for a company called PharmaWorks in Odessa. Fl. I've been there for a year and before that I was a Tech and Manufacturing Engineer in the Semi-Conductor Industry. My avatar is a picture of me in one of my old machines.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[fastblackmerc]

I work for a company called PharmaWorks in Odessa. Fl. I've been there for a year and before that I was a Tech and Manufacturing Engineer in the Semi-Conductor Industry. My avatar is a picture of me in one of my old machines.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

My future son-in-law works for Atlantic Packaging. His father is the CFO.

[Blk04MM]

Got it fixed. Learned a lot and definitely some shortcuts. Thanks for all the input

[88grandmarq]

Just rebuilt the transmission on my buddies 2004 CVPI. Car was up on Jack stands, it took some work but we got the crossmember out.
A BFH, several pry bars and lots of cursing were involved.

Here is how we feel about the 2003+ transmission Crossmember
http://www.85merk.com/members/eric_s/FU_crossmember.jpg

[Blk04MM]

Just rebuilt the transmission on my buddies 2004 CVPI. Car was up on Jack stands, it took some work but we got the crossmember out.
A BFH, several pry bars and lots of cursing were involved.

Here is how we feel about the 2003+ transmission Crossmember
http://www.85merk.com/members/eric_s/FU_crossmember.jpg

:lol: exactly now I felt. I did it on jack sands for a friend and :censor: that xmember and :censor: ford for pressing it in :censor: idiots.

[vegasmarauder]

Chiming in a little late, but the key to getting the crossmember out is the lubrication on the pressed ends. I have done about 10 of these now and without any penatrating oil it is next to impossible to get it to budge.

This info was sent to me by a friend. It was published in a magazine called Machinist's Workshop a few years ago. It lists the breakaway torque on rusted bolts and various penatrating oils. The results:
No oil...516 Ft pounds, WD-40...238 FT#, PB Blaster...214 FT#, Liquid Wrench...127 FT#, Kano Kroil...106 FT#, and ATF/Acetone...53 FT#.

Being a skeptic, I lixed up some MerconV and Acetone at 50/50. Used it on some rusted bed bolts on a 55 Chevy truck. Waited 24 hours and re-applied it then tried to loosen the bolts. I was stunned at how easy they came loose. The ATF/Acetone does really work. Have to be carefull what container you put it in, but it works. Put some in a spay bottle and spray the top of the crossmember ends and let it wick down into the sides. I am able to pop them loose with an 18" prybar and not rock the car at all.

I have used the mix for about 2 years now and it really does work.

[Comin' in Hot]

Chiming in a little late, but the key to getting the crossmember out is the lubrication on the pressed ends. I have done about 10 of these now and without any penatrating oil it is next to impossible to get it to budge.

This info was sent to me by a friend. It was published in a magazine called Machinist's Workshop a few years ago. It lists the breakaway torque on rusted bolts and various penatrating oils. The results:
No oil...516 Ft pounds, WD-40...238 FT#, PB Blaster...214 FT#, Liquid Wrench...127 FT#, Kano Kroil...106 FT#, and ATF/Acetone...53 FT#.

Being a skeptic, I lixed up some MerconV and Acetone at 50/50. Used it on some rusted bed bolts on a 55 Chevy truck. Waited 24 hours and re-applied it then tried to loosen the bolts. I was stunned at how easy they came loose. The ATF/Acetone does really work. Have to be carefull what container you put it in, but it works. Put some in a spay bottle and spray the top of the crossmember ends and let it wick down into the sides. I am able to pop them loose with an 18" prybar and not rock the car at all.

I have used the mix for about 2 years now and it really does work.

Great info!!!!!

[1stMerc]

For those of you who are going to attempt this on the ground....I had a good friend and customer killed a few years ago from his car dropping on him...crushed him to death in his own driveway. He was here the day before and asked me to swap his converter...I could not get him in that week so he went home and tried it himself...he died right there. He had 4 good jackstands and a jack under the car but it still got him. ITS NOT WORTH IT. Most shops charge $300 to $400 to R&R a trans...ITS NOT WORTH THE RISK. If you are going to do it, be damn sure you have stands that are good welded ones not Sams club garbage....Rest in Peace Shawn.....

I can relate, came close to not being here a few years ago when had car on jack stands to paint calipers. One stand cocked and car slid sideways. Rear ended up about four inches from side of house. Good thing it was at an angle and gave me enough room to get away. Didn't soil anything, but it scared the heck out of me. Been leery ever since.

So sorry for your loss.

Be care full out there.