R1Concepts rotor owners

[ctrlraven]

I'm going to put getting Wilwoods on hold for a while and just going to upgrade front and rear rotors for now.

For those who have gotten rotors from R1Concepts, which premium line rotor did you get, Cross-drilled & Slotted, Cross-drilled or Slotted, what pads did you match up with them and how have you liked them so far?

I have also been looking at http://frozenrotors.com/ as they sell cryo treated Powerslot slotted rotors and then match them up with some Hawk performance pads.

Both otpions are about the same price.

[RubberCtyRauder]

When I bought my Marauder it needed brakes so I was on a budget and purchsed R1 Eline series slotted only front and rear disc. They sell on ebay and include shipping so it woud be worth comparing site cost to ebay for R1. Mine were like $258 for all 4 shipped.(about 2 years ago) I have Raybestos ceramic pads. No noise, squeaks, squealing. I really liked the Hawk HPS pads I had on my CV Sport. The raybestos seem fine though.

[Krytin]

I always run Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors. I have run as much as 40 k miles on them and never any stress cracks. I'm about to put the 5th set on this week. I always run a high performance metallic lining. The Hawk HPS is good but very dirty.
I don't like the ceramics for the way I drive - they don't grab as hard as the metallic linings. If I didn't drive like an a hole I would go w/ceramic!

[gdsqdcr]

Hawk HPS pad and slotted R1 on all four corners. Minimal dust, but stops slightly better.

After speaking with a few folks, I could not justify the extra cost of cryo rotors.

[SC Cheesehead]

Drilled and slotted front and rear, ceramic pads. So far so good (apprx 30K on 'em).

[ctrlraven]

Drilled and slotted front and rear, ceramic pads. So far so good (apprx 30K on 'em).
What kind of improvement did you feel? Any wet weather driving or hard stop braking? Did you get the E line or Premium series?

[SC Cheesehead]

What kind of improvement did you feel? Any wet weather driving or hard stop braking? Did you get the E line or Premium series?



IIRC, Premium Series.

SOTP, better hard stop braking over OEM, but still nowhere like big brakes.

[ctrlraven]

I changed out my brake MC the other month ago and still have a low pedal feel. I'm pretty sure it's due to either the pads being low or the rotors on the rear.

I know I changed the front rotors about 3 years ago and for the life of me I can not remember if I have ever replaced the rear rotors which would have over 200K miles on them. That's what is making me think is causing the low pedal feel.

I need to find my shop manual and see what the minimal thickness is and measure the rears before ordering anything.

[MOTOWN]

Baers on the front now, and R1c drilled and slotted premium rotors on the rear with Wagner ultra quiet Ceramic premium pads, night and day difference, and no brake dust what so ever!

[SC Cheesehead]

I changed out my brake MC the other month ago and still have a low pedal feel. I'm pretty sure it's due to either the pads being low or the rotors on the rear.

I know I changed the front rotors about 3 years ago and for the life of me I can not remember if I have ever replaced the rear rotors which would have over 200K miles on them. That's what is making me think is causing the low pedal feel.

I need to find my shop manual and see what the minimal thickness is and measure the rears before ordering anything.

Yup, same here; have had that before and after, just ended up learning to live with it.

[ctrlraven]

Yup, same here; have had that before and after, just ended up learning to live with it.
I'd rather not deal with it. I can push the pedal in half way before the car starts to slow down and just a tad more then it really starts to grab.

The other week ago I had to move my car at the girlfriend's house and it's on an incline, I was just going to let it slowly roll down without starting the car.

As soon as I put it in neutral the car stared to roll real quick even with my foot on the brakes to control it. Had to pump 2-3 times to get it to bite and stop.

[MOTOWN]

Sounds like your brake booster its self could be bad.

[Krytin]

I'd rather not deal with it. I can push the pedal in half way before the car starts to slow down and just a tad more then it really starts to grab.

The other week ago I had to move my car at the girlfriend's house and it's on an incline, I was just going to let it slowly roll down without starting the car.

As soon as I put it in neutral the car stared to roll real quick even with my foot on the brakes to control it. Had to pump 2-3 times to get it to bite and stop.

Really hate to say this but it sounds like you might still have air in the system - if any got into the ABS module when you installed the MC you are going to have a lot of fun getting it out again!
I had to cycle the ABS many times to get the pedal close to good and I still think I have some air in it! Major PITA:mad2:

[ctrlraven]

Sounds like your brake booster its self could be bad.
That's what I am thinking it is.

Really hate to say this but it sounds like you might still have air in the system - if any got into the ABS module when you installed the MC you are going to have a lot of fun getting it out again!
I had to cycle the ABS many times to get the pedal close to good and I still think I have some air in it! Major PITA:mad2:
When my MC was replaced, the brakes were bled the old way 3 times and using a snap-on scan tool to cycle the ABS module. The pedal had more feedback after doing it the old way then cycling the ABS module.

I've also got KVR SS brake lines. I think I am going to get some TCE ss brake lines. Might as well replace the brake booster also since they are not that expensive.

[MOTOWN]

That's what I am thinking it is.

When my MC was replaced, the brakes were bled the old way 3 times and using a snap-on scan tool to cycle the ABS module. The pedal had more feedback after doing it the old way then cycling the ABS module.

I've also got KVR SS brake lines. I think I am going to get some TCE ss brake lines. Might as well replace the brake booster also since they are not that expensive.

I really think that will get you the firm pedal back.

[ctrlraven]

I really think that will get you the firm pedal back.
It's worth a shot, I mean I can't exclude it since the car has 200k miles on it. I know the vacuum lines are good as I checked them when I pulled the cowl off to clean it.

[larryo340]

Really hate to say this but it sounds like you might still have air in the system - if any got into the ABS module when you installed the MC you are going to have a lot of fun getting it out again!
I had to cycle the ABS many times to get the pedal close to good and I still think I have some air in it! Major PITA:mad2:
Without Ford IDS or a scan tool with the capability to perfom an ABS bleed it's gotta be very hard if not impossible to get all the air out.

[Green96]

I do not care for drilled personally, so I went with the slotted only premium line and the Posi Quiet Extended Wear Brake Pads (not the ceramic ones) for the front brakes (have not done the rears). When I got them the pads plainly said semi-metalic but I cannot find that stated any more.

My main worry with drilled rotors is cracking. I do not know of any R1 rotors cracking but it was not worth the risk for me.

I am happy with my set-up.

[Vortech347]

Their cross drilled stuff is crap. Had 3 sets crack on our last Cobra and my Fox. However their non-drilled/slotted seemed to hold up very well. If you plan on being VERY aggressive do not get them. Unless cross drilled are manufactured a certain way they will develop cracking. That is why actual factory cross drilled rotors aren't cheap. If you're putting them on a car for more bling and don't rail on it much. Its ok. I'll see if I can find the pictures I took of them after an auto-x. Damn near every hole had 3-4 cracks coming from it.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Really hate to say this but it sounds like you might still have air in the system - if any got into the ABS module when you installed the MC you are going to have a lot of fun getting it out again!
I had to cycle the ABS many times to get the pedal close to good and I still think I have some air in it! Major PITA:mad2:

+1 on the air in your lines. I would do a fluid swap and get rid of air in the system.

[ctrlraven]

+1 on the air in your lines. I would do a fluid swap and get rid of air in the system.
My brakes felt slightly better after having the MC replaced. But still not like they should be or felt like other Marauders I have driven.

I know there isn't any air in the system as my mechanic spent about 3-4 hrs bleeding the system the old school way and via scan tool abs module cycling. We went through almost 3 quarts of fluid, it was clear and no bubbles.

Next step is the brake booster. If that doesn't help I will just replace the hoses, rotors and pads and be done with it.

[Green96]

Don't forget to check the adjustment of the plunger. I do not know the spec, but there should be a limited amount of travel before the slop in the mechanism is taken up and contacts the plunger in the master cylinder. I think mine is a little too long but I have not gotten around to adjusting it.

[ctrlraven]

Don't forget to check the adjustment of the plunger. I do not know the spec, but there should be a limited amount of travel before the slop in the mechanism is taken up and contacts the plunger in the master cylinder. I think mine is a little too long but I have not gotten around to adjusting it.
I will check that as well. I was looking through my Ford shop repair manual and will be doing a lot the testing listed in it.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Interesting..good luck. Let us know what the culprit was.

[lifespeed]

Warped rotors (doesn't take much) ruin pedal feel by knocking the pistons back into the bores.

[justbob]

Not sure if the company I used in '08 (race concepts) is affiliated with R1 or not but I just used some cheap pads they sent with their $199 ebay special with their drilled and slotted rotors and just now, over 45,000 miles later changed the pads to Wearever Platinums due to age mostly. I'm rolling on the same rotors, unturned, still today with zero complaints.
My car stops on a dime with the manual anyhow, can't ever see going Wilwood now, except for looks..


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[fastblackmerc]

Not sure if the company I used in '08 (race concepts) is affiliated with R1 or not but I just used some cheap pads they sent with their $199 ebay special with their drilled and slotted rotors and just now, over 45,000 miles later changed the pads to Wearever Platinums due to age mostly. I'm rolling on the same rotors, unturned, still today with zero complaints.
My car stops on a dime with the manual anyhow, can't ever see going Wilwood now, except for looks..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Have you driven / stopped in a Marauder with Wilwoods?

[Logizyme]

R1 concepts drilled and slotted premiums with Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramics for 15k miles on my vic. very little dust, but pedal travel is somewhat long, you get used to it. rotors are starting to warp some, I drive pretty hard, and we have allot of big hills around here. no cracks around any of my drilled holes.

the new marauder has semi-metallic pads I can tell for sure. pedal travel is much less and it bites faster. not that it really has more stopping power, but just a shorter pedal travel.

Next time around I will just get some regular old centric premium rotors.

[justbob]

Have you driven / stopped in a Marauder with Wilwoods?

Yes Jim, front only and wasn't impressed at all. BUT I'll be fare and admit they were absolutely brand new and not bedded in yet. I just expected s lot more for the unreasonable price of big brakes.

Now for you. Have you ever made a panic stop in a twin disc manual MM? :D I'd lay that challenge against Wilwoods any day!

Still love the looks though, I wouldn't argue that.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[lifespeed]

Yes Jim, front only and wasn't impressed at all. BUT I'll be fare and admit they were absolutely brand new and not bedded in yet. I just expected s lot more for the unreasonable price of big brakes.

Now for you. Have you ever made a panic stop in a twin disc manual MM? :D I'd lay that challenge against Wilwoods any day!

Still love the looks though, I wouldn't argue that.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Keep in mind there are a couple configurations of Wilwood big brakes for our cars: 13" front with stock rears, or 14" fronts with 13" rears. You won't be surprised to hear the latter is a dramatic improvement, engine braking or not.

[Logizyme]

I agree, there's only so much engine braking can do, and its all on the rear tires which have little traction during deceleration.

[justbob]

Lol anytime, anywhere, any speed. Total sucker bet.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Now that this thread has been completely derailed.. Try to also understand that every time I brake I am either in neutral or downshifting, and only stopping momentum of weight. I no longer have driveline or a spinning converter pushing me that extra bit foreword. Basic physics guys, we all know manuals have always aided in closing stopping distances.

This discussion has had me thinking though. Has there ever been a comparison of equal MM's (as close as possible at least) with big brakes VS stock? I'd be interested in the results of various brake tests of real word results because I live life off facts, not opinions. The only big brake cars I have driven I believe we're 13" front only cars which I personally feel to be a complete waste as for only a little more could have went 14". But that is an opinion. Anyways, even two of the owners admitted that they expected a whole lot more for the cost and they are right, they should have. But that is seat of the pants without facts.

Maybe instead of just 1/4 mile times we should start to also do some skid pad results for the future owners or anyone looking for a good upgrade. Notice how early on I said my race concept brakes provided no real difference on the street but a slight noticeable difference at the track? Instead of justifying a purchase by hyping it, I chose to focus on how long you can expect to get out of them and what price you can expect to pay for a long lasting, decent looking, but only marginally better over stock.

I have seen first hand people drink the koo**** on here for many upgrades, not care for the taste, and yet hype it to justify it. If I don't like the taste, I call them out. Back to the brakes, it would be nice to get some factual results on here, not from vendors, perhaps at a major event with different set ups. It would have to be compiled at the same place to keep the results even close to realistic claims as weather, surfaces, ETC, would play a big part. Tires as well as drivers would unfortunately have to be the exception.

This would be useful information for anyone.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[1Marauder]

Data sets are data sets... I agree. I had to slow from 90 to about 15-20 while next to a big rig and an overpass abutment... And my big ol badass Maraudermade me feel like Fred Flinstone with my feet dragging.

In the space I had-- I thought I'd be able to fully stop but could not.

I am searching for new SS hoses (where is the best place to get them? ) new pads and new rotors. And will have the fluid drained/pumped/fully replaced with highest grade.

I am finding it hard to find stopping data... Example Marauder at x lbs from 65 mph takes ---- feet to stop vs...

[1Marauder]

Forgot to add... Without spending $2,000 to $3,000!!!!

[babbage]

Forgot to add... Without spending $2,000 to $3,000!!!!


DBA 4000 series rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, TCE SS lines from Todd @ TCE.

$680 for brakes, $120 for SS lines, best you can get before going bigger.

[lifespeed]

Forgot to add... Without spending $2,000 to $3,000!!!!

There is no inexpensive lunch here. Even new, slightly-upgraded stock will run you $600 - $1,000 depending on brake lines and caliper replacement. And they work slightly better than new, non-warped stock.

You makes your choices and pays your money. All American cars (with rare exception) are under-braked. I guess that is part of the low cost. :(