Mechanics and guru's I need your help! Engine catastrophe?

[usabodyguard]

Ok the 03 MM has about 93k miles on her.... Only ever used synthetic oil, change regularly. I only use premium fuel, I recently changed the spark plugs, about 2k miles ago, along with the fuel filter and oil. On my way to the store she was running fne. No issues whatsoever... As I was doing about 20-25 under light acceleration it sound and felt and heard what I thought was maybe a flat, then the engine starting mailing wierd noises... I pulled into the nearest parking lot... No flats, engine sounded maybe a little louder and it seemed the noise may have been coming from the drivers side, and maybe even under the car...

I looked in the engine while it idled, it didnt sound that great, but the major noise was only under throttle - I checked for what I thought might be an exhaust leak, but everything appear Ok inside the engine compartment and underneath the car... No leaks, no check engine lights, normal operating temps, full gas tank...

I was only about a mile from my home and to drive it back, it didnt sound to good, I didnt push it, but the power seemed fine, just the vibrationa and noise...

My first thought was the Cats the Magnaflow installed had failed and was clogging, back pressure, I looked for any exhaust damage and there were none.

I drove home, no check engine lights, normal temps but something is deff wrong, can anyone lend some advice? Thanks in advance....

[larryo340]

Hard to tell without an audio/video clip, but as described it does sound like an exhaust leak....maybe from the exhaust manifold?

[Marauderjack]

Spark plug blown out maybe??:confused:

[Blackened300a]

Sounds like a plug wasn't tight or you didn't plug a coil back in all the way. Start there and make sure everything is tight. When my plug backed out it made a thumping and the engine had a vibration. Also no check engine light came on.

[SpartaPerformance]

I agree, check and make sure spark plug didn't come loose. If not torqued properly they will blow out and possibly cause major engine damage.

[fastblackmerc]

I agree with Paul and Tommy, check the last thing that was done to the car.

[RF Overlord]

I agree with Paul, Tommy, and Jim.

[usabodyguard]

Thank you for everyone's advice...

Well the problem was in fact one of the plugs backed completely out....drivers side, as I opened the cover I saw a small mount of shavings, dust really... Minute amount.

Here is the plug in question.... The tip is bent, and the lower threads are worn.

I opened the rest of the covers and a few of them are loose...

Can someone tell me the correct torque for plugs, also, should I just replace it and try starting it?
If anyone has a couple minutes for phone assistance, please pm me...


Thanks again guys!

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g194/usabodyguard/3f82d95bb2c554a07a255076962558 f2_zps5bb51ded.jpg

[SC Cheesehead]

Suggest you pull them all, replace with properly gapped new plugs. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads prior to installing.

11 ft lbs of torque, make sure the engine is COLD.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35043

[Marauderjack]

I agree with Paul, Tommy, and Jim.

What about me.....am I invisible here Bob??:(

[Vortech347]

I'm saying this in caps because everyone needs to read this.

DO NOT CHANGE SPARK PLUGS IN A MODULAR FORD ENGINE WITHOUT A DAMN TORQUE WRENCH!!!!!

"good n' tight" is not a unit of measurement.

Edit, wait a minute, Damn works? Usually that is starred out?

[sailsmen]

Photo looks like you cross threaded and only got 2-3 turns on it. Make certain the plugs go in easy and count the turns that thread.
If the plug can't seat you are going to have to have the damage repaired.

[Marauderjack]

I must be lucky since in over 50 years of wrenching I HAVE NEVER USED A TORQUE WRENCH ON SPARK PLUGS!!;)

From Outboards......to Chain Saws.....to Go Carts.....to Lawn Mowers.....to hundreds of Cars, Trucks and Boats and now my Marauder!!:beer:

It seems like some folks must hand tighten them and maybe just forget to finish the job??:cool:

An Inch Pound torque wrench is a good idea for low torque requirements!!:beer:

Hope you still have threads in the head for a new plug!!

[8UWITH6]

I'm saying this in caps because everyone needs to read this.

DO NOT CHANGE SPARK PLUGS IN A MODULAR FORD ENGINE WITHOUT A DAMN TORQUE WRENCH!!!!!

"good n' tight" is not a unit of measurement.

Edit, wait a minute, Damn works? Usually that is starred out?


I did my plugs about 7K miles ago.......... are you saying I should go back and torque them? If so whats the specification?

[8UWITH6]

and why is the ground electrode smashed on that plug? Did you drop it on the floor or is that how it came out? I hope you dropped it otherwise you might have other issues inside that particular cylinder.

[Blackened300a]

and why is the ground electrode smashed on that plug? Did you drop it on the floor or is that how it came out? I hope you dropped it otherwise you might have other issues inside that particular cylinder.


No, the plug backs out and then sits in the cylinder hole bouncing up and down against the threads with the coil still hooked to it igniting the gas in the cylinder, that's the popping noise.

[8UWITH6]

I guess the compression from the cylinder would bounce it around quite a bit in there.............. ugh.

[usabodyguard]

Ok as fate would have it, the cylinder in question I can't get the new plug to thread....

Please tell me I don't have to pull the head?? Any suggestions?

[RF Overlord]

You can TRY and chase it with a tap, but since these heads have so few threads, I'm not hopeful that will work. You will most likely have to have the threads repaired with either a TimeSert or a Lock-n-Stitch kit. The LnS kit is the only one currently authorised by Ford for proper repair, although TimeSert has a very good reputation as well.

HeliCoil is a lot less expense, but is also less reliable.

[Mike M]

Like Sailsman said, it looks like your cross threaded it putting it in. The picture shows the threads are done. Not surprised you can't get new one in.
Never start threading a plug with your socket and extension. Use a rubber hose.

[RF Overlord]

What about me.....am I invisible here Bob??:(My apologies, 'jack...I was responding to Jim's thread immediately above mine, trying to be funny. :beatnik:

...and Marauderjack's calibrated arm notwithstanding, most of us mere mortals NEED to use a torque wrench. The biggest cause of flying spark plugs in modular motors is over-tightening and causing damage to the (few) threads.

[usabodyguard]

Well this should be fun....

Anyone else done this that can lend some tips?
Suggestions on which size, length to use?

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g194/usabodyguard/20130721_130542_zpsdf54ff8d.jp g

[fastblackmerc]

Well this should be fun....

Anyone else done this that can lend some tips?
Suggestions on which size, length to use?

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g194/usabodyguard/20130721_130542_zpsdf54ff8d.jp g

Are there instructions on the package or the company's website?

[LANDY]

This happened to me a couple of months ago when i made the mistake of letting my friend snug the pass side plugs. I guarantee there was no crossthreading involved with you issue. Either worn out threads or plug wasn't tight enough. I have NEVER used a torque wrench on my plugs. Never had an issue. I fixed my issue with the timesert kit. Its all great now.

[usabodyguard]

Yes there are instructions, very simple and straight forward....

However, it requires a 3/4 socket to drive the thread chaser tool... Which A 3/4. SOCKET DOESN'T FIT INTO THE SPARK PLUG HOLE... And I don't have a thin walled socket... ARRRRRGGGGGHHHH

Fml

[usabodyguard]

:corner: :(:mad: :bigcry::cry::down::banghead:

[fastblackmerc]

Yes there are instructions, very simple and straight forward....

However, it requires a 3/4 socket to drive the thread chaser tool... Which A 3/4. SOCKET DOESN'T FIT INTO THE SPARK PLUG HOLE... And I don't have a thin walled socket... ARRRRRGGGGGHHHH

Fml

You'll think of something.......

[justbob]

Grind it down to a smaller size? If you have access to a welder, I would just weld a 3/8" extension to it.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Vortech347]

I must be lucky since in over 50 years of wrenching I HAVE NEVER USED A TORQUE WRENCH ON SPARK PLUGS!!;)

From Outboards......to Chain Saws.....to Go Carts.....to Lawn Mowers.....to hundreds of Cars, Trucks and Boats and now my Marauder!!:beer:

It seems like some folks must hand tighten them and maybe just forget to finish the job??:cool:

An Inch Pound torque wrench is a good idea for low torque requirements!!:beer:

Hope you still have threads in the head for a new plug!!

Comparing an aluminum headed car with only 4 threads to an iron headed chain saw, lawn mower or outboard is ridiculous. There are some that get lucky. However with how many I have seen and had to fix for others. The luck is thin. It is a low torque requirement. I use my inch-lb when doing them.

Another possible reason the electrode is smashed is because some folks won't use the correct retention sockets and the plug will fall out of the socket while on the way down into the well and hit the head.

[usabodyguard]

So I have run out of options... if I remove the drivers side valve cover will I have easier access? I tried several automotive parts stores but no thin walled 3/4 sockets.
So remove the covers?

[JBFTech]

Do you have any friends near by that work at a FLM dealer? Or do you think your local dealer would be nice enough to lend you a tool? The ford plug thread repair kit tools are a hell of a lot better than the tools that come in those parts store kits. Also they are sized properly as to not have to rig things up to make those tools work.


Sent from B.F.E. by aliens

[usabodyguard]

I took a full can of gas, and a match....


Naw, thanks again you guys for helping a newb figure this out. I went ahead and returned the one kit and just got a chaser instead, smothered it in anti seize (to pickup the shavings) and then I used a RUBBER HOSE, installed the new plug, put it all back together and started it up....


odd, that mysterious tick and loss of power are gone!? Hahahaha I'm such a dipshit sometimes...

Once again, I love my marauder, except that I now need to replace an axle shaft, that should be fun.

Thanks again guys!

[Vortech347]

So I have run out of options... if I remove the drivers side valve cover will I have easier access? I tried several automotive parts stores but no thin walled 3/4 sockets.
So remove the covers?

Not really. The size is the same between the valve cover and the opening area in the head. There are Ford specific kits. I don't think a one size fits all will work.

[RF Overlord]

I went ahead and returned the one kit and just got a chaser instead, smothered it in anti seize (to pickup the shavings) and then I used a RUBBER HOSE, installed the new plug, put it all back together and started it up....odd, that mysterious tick and loss of power are gone!?Excellent! I'm glad to be wrong this time... ;)

Are you replacing an axle due to bearing surface wear? If so, I guarantee it will be WAY more fun than your spark-plug adventure. If you don't want to do the job twice, be sure you clean out the axle tubes REALLY well and spray down the diff with Brakleen or something as well.

[Comin' in Hot]

Removing the cover will get you closer, but I don't know if it will get you close enough.

The good news is that the driver's side is 1000% easier to remove than the passenger side.

[Baaad GN]

His problem may and may not be solved, looking at that plug shows some bad looking threads, can't imagine the threats on the head were NOT effected. Maybe you got the plug to go in but how strong is it????? I guess a couple flat runs with a lot of engine pressure will tell the story! Next time it'll sound like a bomb!

[usabodyguard]

His problem may and may not be solved, looking at that plug shows some bad looking threads, can't imagine the threats on the head were NOT effected. Maybe you got the plug to go in but how strong is it????? I guess a couple flat runs with a lot of engine pressure will tell the story! Next time it'll sound like a bomb!

The plug was completely out of the cylinder bouncing around, COP pressure and still firing on my 1.5 mile drive home. All of the plugs were loose, all... This one happened to back all the way out. The damage was from the bouncing around, IMO. When I secured the new plug it felt nice and strong and tight.

I guess time will tell...

[Curless]

Use one of these....they work awesome!

http://www.plccenter.com/Shop/APEX%20TOOLS/3545/FNFP?source=GoogleShopping&gclid=CPnvpKqUw7gCFZBAMgodRmMA jg

NAPA has them...

[boatmangc]

Use one of these....they work awesome!

http://www.plccenter.com/Shop/APEX%20TOOLS/3545/FNFP?source=GoogleShopping&gclid=CPnvpKqUw7gCFZBAMgodRmMA jg

NAPA has them...

EXACTLY!
That's the way to save it if there is anything left it will work wonders. And you put it in and then unscres it so debris is carried out not in.