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JoeBoomz
07-26-2013, 04:57 PM
WARNING: THIS THREAD IS PHOTO-INTENSIVE. I'D RECOMMEND AVOIDING IT FOR NOW IF YOU ARE ON A SLOW CONNECTION OR MOBILE DEVICE.


I cooked #8 on my stock motor (I must have been at or above 450HP with my 12PSI Vortech, never got around to getting it dyno'd...). :mad:

The real pisser is that it happened mid-summer and I can't drive it until I fix it. Would have been much better if it happened before the winter when the car is parked!


Anyway, so I am purchasing this Cobra pull complete with Eaton (everything under the hood):
LeChIdO8GC4 XdL66Zrj99I

I have a set of 60# injectors and a second fuel pump installation planned anyway, so the big decision to make is:

- leave my car as-is (plumbed for Vortech with air cooler), drop the Cobra motor in without the Eaton, and upgrade the pulley on the Vortech to bring it to 18-20PSI.

- tear out all of the Vortech piping, cooler, etc, and drop the complete Cobra motor in with the Eaton as it is.

I've never driven a roots-style blower before and understand that, while they're not as efficient as the centri's, the bottom end power is much better.



Either way, I'll have a complete supercharger kit up for sale at some point to offset the costs of purchasing this beast. The only way I was able to sell it to the wife was "almost breaking even" after selling off the spare supercharger and parts from the original blown motor. ;)


This will be a great time to put on a pair of SW headers!

MMBLUE
07-26-2013, 05:15 PM
Nice find Joe! I say keep the Vortech and sell the Heaton. The best thing you have going for you is, you can show the potential buyer how the eaton works.

WhatsUpDOHC
07-26-2013, 05:33 PM
Good stuff!
It's nice to have options. :beer:

License2Bill
07-26-2013, 11:04 PM
I will own a Mystichrome Cobra at some point in my life. If somebody offered me an even trade for the Marauder, I would not hesitate to hand over the keys.

Good find on the motor!

WhatsUpDOHC
07-27-2013, 03:55 AM
I will own a Mystichrome Cobra at some point in my life. If somebody offered me an even trade for the Marauder, I would not hesitate to hand over the keys.

Good find on the motor!
Temporary thread derail

Mystichrome Cobra

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251306558476#h t_1335wt_1165

Return to thread.

sailsmen
07-27-2013, 05:03 AM
I have a T Trim impeller and a Cobra Long block. The only way I could get ~20K miles on the belt and eliminate slippage at 19psi was to go with an 8 rib.
There are pros and cons to both set ups.
I would get it dynoed before any wot.

MOTOWN
07-27-2013, 05:22 AM
I would stick with the Centri setup since the intercooling plumbing is already in place.

SC Cheesehead
07-27-2013, 06:39 AM
I would stick with the Centri setup since the intercooling plumbing is already in place.

I've got to agree, as much as I love the Eaton swap, you're set up and ready to go with the centri; go for it!!!

MOTOWN
07-27-2013, 06:46 AM
I've got to agree, as much as I love the Eaton swap, you're set up and ready to go with the centri; go for it!!!

Yeah and he certainly wont have a problem selling an Eaton swap!:cool4:

SC Cheesehead
07-27-2013, 07:37 AM
Yeah and he certainly wont have a problem selling an Eaton swap!:cool4:

For sure....

RF Overlord
07-27-2013, 08:05 AM
Drop the Cobra motor in, Eaton and all.

CWright
07-27-2013, 08:18 AM
Heck NO,, I have had both setups! WHIPPLE that baby, you have plenty of motor now! :burnout::burnout:

dohc324ci
07-27-2013, 08:23 AM
Sell the Vortech (to me) and drop in the whole enchilada. You'll be ready for a Whipple of choice 2.3-2.9-3.4L!

Vortech347
07-27-2013, 09:40 AM
Keep the engine and spin the **** out of the Vortech. It'll make more power and when a Vortech is spun hard they make plenty of low end boost. You could sell the Eaton swap parts for 2500-3k on SVTp and probably pay for the car and have a free engine.

JoeBoomz
07-27-2013, 12:20 PM
Bah you guys aren't helping! Half say go Eaton and the other half Vortech!

The lazy guy in me thinks its easier to strip the motor while its out and change the front timing chain cover, then mount the vortech on. That versus pulling out all of the vortech plumbing and then trying to shoehorn the motor in (relocate the alt and notch the frame), and then re wiring all of the harness and everything to move the battery.

BUT the speed junkie in me wants an eventual whipple, which is a relatively easy upgrade once the Eaton is installed.

CWright
07-27-2013, 12:31 PM
Bah you guys aren't helping! Half say go Eaton and the other half Vortech!

The lazy guy in me thinks its easier to strip the motor while its out and change the front timing chain cover, then mount the vortech on. That versus pulling out all of the vortech plumbing and then trying to shoehorn the motor in (relocate the alt and notch the frame), and then re wiring all of the harness and everything to move the battery.

BUT the speed junkie in me wants an eventual Whipple, which is a relatively easy upgrade once the Eaton is installed.


Now you're talking!! :coolman:

sailsmen
07-27-2013, 02:23 PM
I would like to have a Whipple. Where are they on the Timeslips?

BLACKMAGIC03
07-28-2013, 12:26 PM
Eaton ...ill take the centri!!!

JoeBoomz
08-08-2013, 09:54 PM
Decided to keep the VORTECH!

Got a 2.67" pulley to spin the Vortech up to 50K at 6000 RPM.
And a Mondo bypass valve for the upgrade (man the thing is as big as my child's HEAD)

So, I will be pulling everything Cobra off this motor and transplanting everything Marauder onto it. When we're done with Dad's whipple build over the winter, I will be selling the complete Eaton kit.

I missed my boomZ so much without my Marauder :( that I moved them temporarily into the Overland:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-08-2013-PRI FlexPlate/IMG_5460.JPG


The engine is slated to arrive any day now.
The flexplate, smaller Vortech pulley, and mondo valve arrived today.
3000K converter ordered from PI.
Head cooling mod and EGR delete ordered from D'Agostino Racing.


I am skipping the SW kit this year to keep my marriage intact. Spent enough on this already and need some parts sales to offset the expense ;)
(unless I win the SW draw, 39 weeks left until we find out apparently)

More pics coming when the motor arrives and we start pulling the parts off.

Mamba
08-08-2013, 11:20 PM
I'll take that Vortech off your hands!!!

Mamba
08-08-2013, 11:21 PM
Or the Eaton i guess lol 😩

JoeBoomz
08-21-2013, 09:19 PM
Whew! Nothing like wiring a bunch of cash for something sight-unseen, and hoping it actually comes...

Well it did, the Cobra pull showed up last Monday and we spent all of last weekend getting it cleaned up and stripped of everything Cobra!

Pics, cuz it DID happen!


It was pretty grimy when we first took the shrink wrap off of it.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/1-IMG_5873.JPG

"But wait, why's that belt so loose?"

Turns out the seller took some extra parts off the motor in the process of pulling it from the car. Notice the lack of supercharger idler pulley and bracket:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/2-IMG_5881.JPG

The steering reservoir looks to have taken some damage too. This is where that sinking feeling in the gut started up....


Notice from this angle, the DISTINCT LACK OF AIR INTAKE TUBE, MAF or FILTER. Sigh....

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/3-IMG_5878.JPG


Oh look, the starter apparently also wasn't included...

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/4-IMG_5882.JPG


On this side, oh look, the oil adapter/cooler. It's broken. Only half of it is there!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/5-IMG_5868.JPG


Anyway, after no word from the seller for a week, he finally got back to me and has promised to me that he will replace the missing / broken parts.

Unfortunately they won't be the EXACT ones shown in the original eBay auction (because he has since already sold them), but at LEAST I will have a Cobra MAF and intake, the correct oil cooler, the starter, and the supercharger idler pulley and bracket. If you look at the above videos, the car shown has some nice aftermarket upgraded parts, the idler pulley, air intake, and what looks to be an SCT ba2400 MAF.

I haven't decided if I want to pursue it further yet, for now I will wait for the parts to actually arrive and will proceed from there.


ANYWAY, onto better news.

With the initial inspections completed, we covered up all the holes and then loaded the dirty engine onto a trailer.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/6-P1010481.JPG


Took it to a carwash to give it a solid de-greasing and wash:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/7-IMG_5916.JPG

Took a break for lunch and let it air dry for a bit...
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/8-IMG_5917.JPG


And pulled it back into the garage to start stripping it:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/9-IMG_5921.JPG


The Eaton shined up quite nicely!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/10-P1010509.JPG

JoeBoomz
08-21-2013, 09:37 PM
With all the grime off, it's MUCH more pleasant to work on this thing!

First order of business was to get the manifolds off. Here's an "after" shot of a beautiful and clean backside:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/11-P1010501.JPG
Clean motors get you lovin'!


I got a good peek up her exhaust ports and was very happy to see all the valve stems nice and straight.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/12-P1010503.JPG

Decently clean under the passenger side coil cover.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/13-P1010505.JPG


Not so clean under the drivers side coil cover. The silicon gob on the wiring was not properly sealed over the years and water got in and caused some corrosion around the rear coil here.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/14-P1010514.JPG


Ah, it never gets old...

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/15-P1010515.JPG


...looking at that backside...
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/16-P1010516.JPG


Now we get to have some fun up front and take off the mass of pulleys and brackets that drive the Cobra's dual belts

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/17-P1010521.JPG


Last we pulled off the entire lower intake, with the Eaton, rails, injectors all still mounted on it:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/18-P1010531.JPG


A peek into the intakes reveals all the valve stems are nice and straight from this end too. w00t!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/18.5-IMG_5924.JPG

NOW it's looking more ready to run a Vortech!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/19-P1010541.JPG




Dad and I spent approximately 10 hours enjoying this process last Saturday. What great quality bonding time!

JoeBoomz
08-21-2013, 10:15 PM
Here's a few shots of the removed Cobra parts collection (see also: Eaton Swap), which I hope will find a good home with another mercurymarauder.net member when we're done with Dad's build!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/21-IMG_5925.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/22-P1010534.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/23-P1010535.JPG


My guy I bought the motor from struck again - it looks like the intake got chipped in the removal process on the right side. Or perhaps in shipping BECAUSE IT WASN'T COVERED BY AN INTAKE TUBE (grrrrrr...)

Anyway, an intake tube will cover it entirely and there would be no leakage, but it still sucks to see sloppiness damage a nice part.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/24-P1010536.JPG


Next we unbolted the motor from its mounts and the k-member, and lifted it off the trailer in order to attach to an engine stand for the next round of work.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/25-P1010556.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/26-IMG_5938.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/27-P1010571.JPG


While it was on the trailer, we had tried on the PRW flexplate and discovered two bolts don't line up. The great guys at PRW have stepped up and will correct the problem for us (more on that in the flex plate thread).

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/28-P1010559.JPG


I am now the proud owner of 4% of a wrecked Mustang Cobra mystichome!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/29-IMG_5937.JPG

This piece is DEFINITELY going to be hung on the wall in my garage.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/30-P1010563.JPG



Temporary thread derail

Mystichrome Cobra

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251306558476#h t_1335wt_1165

Return to thread.

That's a rare k-member!

JoeBoomz
08-21-2013, 10:33 PM
Keeping the energy level up...

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/31-IMG_5939.JPG


Almost have everything stripped off now except for the front pulley.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/32-IMG_5940.JPG


See that dryer hose in the background? +15 horsepower bolt-on addition. True story.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/33-IMG_5941.JPG


Here's a closer look at the broken oil cooler adapter (I am using the Marauder adapter instead of the Cobra one)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/34-IMG_5942.JPG


Easy to see from the front what a relatively "small" block the 4.6 is. The heads are huge on it. We spent quite a bit of time cleaning out the COT ports, lots of corrosion and gunk on the inside to polish off and suck out on this 72,000-mile motor.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/35-IMG_5944.JPG


This freeze plug is on the rear of the driver's side head, right by the #8 cylinder.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/36-IMG_5968.JPG


On the Cobra, the RIGHT side head is opened up, allowing coolant to flow nicely through the head and out the back of the motor (note they didn't do this in the Marauder).
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/37-IMG_5971.JPG


Remember how I said I cooked the #8 cylinder on my stock motor? And that I wish I had a cooling mod installed?
So you can probably guess what I am going to do with the driver side freeze plug...
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/38-IMG_5974.JPG
Canada is cold. Our arms get hairy.

Now we can cool both sides nicely.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/39-IMG_5976.JPG

If you are skipping the messier top-mounted cooling mod, and doing the rear head cooling mod instead, the kit to order is sold by D'Agostino racing at http://dagostinoracing.com/ford-99-04-mustang-dohc-cooling-mod.html. Not cheap, but once you get the kit and you see the machined and welded parts, you'll know why.

I can't install the kit while the motor is on the engine stand because the stand bolts are in the way. But it will go on when we install it into the Marauder and the heads will both run nice and cool.


NOW the motor is ready for some Marauder parts to be installed on it!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/40-IMG_5983.JPG

JoeBoomz
08-21-2013, 10:42 PM
One last little bit and then I'm done for the night.


We were VERY pleased to find that compression is good in all of the cylinders, and, that all of the spark plugs have a nice golden color.
Even though the car originally had an SCT MAF and some aftermarket upgrades, the motor was obviously run with a safe tune and working MAF with no fuel issues. The pistons also look very nice.


Here are some shots under the valve covers, it looks like the oil was changed regularly in this Cobra as the cam lobes aren't badly worn or burnt (the colors are from a reflection in this photo, in person there is no sign of the purple on the lobes, you can see more purple on the wall of the head that isn't normally there).
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/40-IMG_5950.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/41-IMG_5952.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/42-IMG_5955.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/43-IMG_5961.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/44-IMG_5964.JPG


Chain tensioners also look like they're in great shape with very little or no wear.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-21-2013-JOEBOOMZCobraMotor/45-IMG_5965.JPG


We haven't taken the front cover off yet, waiting until we are ready to put the Marauder front cover on afterwards. Will inspect the chain guides further at that point.


So the PI converter showed up today (3K stall), and we're just waiting for the set of gaskets to arrive (CJPonyParts), as well as the replacement flex plate from PRW. We will start the Marauder motor pull in a few weeks when all of the parts come in (don't want to tie up the garage or ground the car in the meantime).

MOTOWN
08-22-2013, 12:01 AM
Lookin good Joe! someone is going to be all over that Eaton swap! cant wait to see more progress.

JoeBoomz
09-05-2013, 07:40 PM
We took a weekend off to send the kids down some waterslides, and got back to it again last weekend.


Here are some shots of that rear head cooling mod installed all the way:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6110.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6112.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6113.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6114.JPG



We got the rear pinion bearing out of the crank, it broke apart and was a two-step removal:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6115.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6116.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6117.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6118.JPG


Here's the back of the block now with the bearing removed. Ready for torque converter insertion!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6119.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6120.JPG

JoeBoomz
09-05-2013, 07:49 PM
A sexy pinky-purple PI 3000 converter.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6016.JPG


These come with a set of 4 bolts and holes ready to go for either 10.5" or 11.5" circle sizes.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6014.JPG


Confirming fitment to the flex plate:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6086.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6087.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6088.JPG


PRW came through on their promise and delivered two brand-new 8-bolt flex plates that fit our two `04 Cobra motors perfectly:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6121.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6122.JPG


Here's the pattern for tightening the bolts (should anyone need it). I think it was 65 ft. pounds.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-05-2013-Cobra Motor/IMG_6124.JPG


We got the oil pan off, didn't find any nasty surprises and no ring play on the crank as it turns. Nothing worthy of pictures.


This Saturday we plan to get the stock motor pulled from the Marauder and ready to parts swap everything over. Still outstanding is the gasket set ordered from CJPonyParts - they were on a serious backorder but shipped out this week.

I got another "promise" from the original seller of my cobra motor that the missing parts will ship "tomorrow." I'll believe it when I see it...

MOTOWN
09-05-2013, 08:02 PM
I love the placement of that rear head cooling mod! saves a to of room at the back of the intake!

JoeBoomz
09-05-2013, 08:35 PM
I love the placement of that rear head cooling mod! saves a to of room at the back of the intake!

It's definitely the way to go if you've got access to the back of the engine. The kit is quality, machined and with o-rings. The fittings bolt to the heads. Should be zero issues and positive results.

1stMerc
09-05-2013, 09:08 PM
Heck, Joe you could have done dual power adders, ur,ur,ur. Mo power. It's not to late to be the first.

JoeBoomz
09-05-2013, 10:12 PM
Heck, Joe you could have done dual power adders, ur,ur,ur. Mo power. It's not to late to be the first.

Yes the thought did cross my mind. Lots of fab work to get both blowers mounted though! More than my marriage can afford...

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 05:03 PM
My apologies on the lack of updates.

We have been keeping up on the project, but some unfortunate career-related matters have made it difficult for me to sit down and get the pics up.
Actually the car is done and running right now (!!!) but it will take me some time to catch up with these posts.

Anyway, we spent another 10 hours on a Saturday to get the stock motor pulled from the car. We expect we will be much faster the second time around when we do dad's car, now that we've done it once already!

Without further ado, time for another 8 posts of pics.


Here's where we started out in the morning:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6135.JPG


First order of business is to get the hood off, only held on by four small bolts.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6148.JPG


Here's a look at the tiny Bosch boost valve that originally came with my Vortech kit back when it was at 9-10PSI.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6160.JPG


Here's what it is being replaced with, a Vortech Modo valve the size of a child's head:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6170.JPG


The Mondo will be mounted past the blower, after the intercooler, on this straight section of pipe in front of the driver side front wheel:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6172.JPG


Here is the pipe pulled out with a template location sketched on it for the flange:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6173.JPG


A shot of the engine bay with a bunch of junk removed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6179.JPG


A look behind the Vortech reveals some nice black crudly build up.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6183.JPG
Two things have caused the buildup - oil in the intake from blow by out the passenger side PCV valve. A catch can is being added to solve this.
Secondly, the belt was wearing, and some of the black may actually be rubber dust from the belt.


A nice shot of the Vortech removed (see evidence of the oil blow by at the black bottom portion).
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6184.JPG
I actually took the picture to remember which bolts went where for when I reassemble the unit.


Here's a shot of the alternator mounting brackets added for the Vortech kit.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6187.JPG
Another picture I took to help with putting things back together when done...


(continued in next post)

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 05:15 PM
Next step was to get the wiper cowl off.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6192.JPG
A few phillips head screws, some plastic snaps, and some metal clips, and we can take the top part off.


The second piece is held in by bolts. There is a section in the middle of the unit that is wonderful for collecting leaves in the fall. I recommend everyone take it apart and clean it out every few years, or more frequently if the car is parked outdoors.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6194.JPG


The leaf collector is actually a drain hole, mine was filled with leaves. Cleaning it out probably added 5 horsepower.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6199.JPG


With the wiper assembly removed, we can easily see down the back of the engine to the top of the bellhousing, as well as the freeze plugs that are used for the top-mounted ("evenflow") cooling mod.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6203.JPG
Now we can get at the bellhousing bolts much easier to remove them.


Here's an interesting shot into the bellhousing inspection hole as we remove the torque converter nuts attaching it to the flex plate:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6214.JPG


With the electrical connections unplugged, the harnesses detached, the AC compressor and steering pump removed from the block (we left the hoses connected and no draining was required), the bellhousing bolts removed, the exhaust manifolds disconnected from the pipes, the torque converter unbolted, the starter removed, the motor mount bolts removed, and the engine sling set up, we are finally ready to lift the engine out of the car!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6217.JPG


These pictures are my favorite. We took a lot of them. Most other people's posts only have one pic of the engine being pulled anyway, so we definitely can use more.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6218.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6222.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6225.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6227.JPG


Hit the 10-image limit again. Continued in the next post...

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 05:26 PM
One more shot of the lift out of the car:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6228.JPG


Next we got the old motor on a stand for the next round of work.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6229.JPG



Here's one of my favorite shots, a nice collection of motors. From left to right:
- New Cobra longblock for my car (replacing the engine we pulled here)
- Old Marauder engine (cooked the valves on #8, no cooling mod)
- Dad's new Cobra longblock for his car (2.3L Whipple)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6234.JPG
Good things come in threes, right?


So the next order of business is to move everything from the motor on the right to the motor on the left.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6235.JPG



But first we took a break to admire the now-empty engine bay.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6237.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6238.JPG


The AC compressor was unbolted from the engine and left with all hoses intact, no need to deal with the coolant.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6239.JPG


It's a shame I couldn't drive to the carwash to clean out the engine bay!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6240.JPG


Same thing with the steering pump - unbolted and left sitting, no need to drain the steering fluid.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6242.JPG
IMPORTANT: note the depth of the torque converter in the bellhousing. When replacing, you need the new converter to be at the same depth (lined up with the middle of the black plug at the bottom of the bellhousing)


Here's a shot of the factory torque converter in the bellhousing.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6244.JPG


"Why did it take 10 hours?" No drips or spills - we cleaned up everything as we went and took our time and enjoyed it!
I also placed every bolt and nut into labelled bags so we knew where everything goes when we put it back together.
I'm sure the experts can do it much more quickly.


Anyway, another 10-image limit. Onto the next post...

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 05:40 PM
Here's the the mileage (kilometerage) at the time of the engine pull:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6248.JPG


Here's a pic of the air-to-air cooler removed, keeps the IAT's nice and low.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6249.JPG


Because the engine was removed, and we wanted to remove the transmission crossmember, we had to jack up the transmission. You cannot jack on the pan directly without building it up with some blocks, otherwise it will bend. Jacking it up on the bellhousing is recommended instead.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6252.JPG


Next was the crossmember removal.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6253.JPG



This has been covered elsewhere on here before, but it's worth mentioning again.

IMPORTANT: the transmission crossmember is PRESSED into the frame. You will need to use persuasive force to remove it.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6256.JPG

If the car is on stands be VERY careful and ensure you do not ROCK the car. People have rocked their car off the stands and on top of themselves doing this. We added four additional stands, ready to catch the frame, just for safety. Do NOT be under the car while you are prying the crossmember out. If in doubt, leave it to the professionals with a vehicle lift.


The NUTS are WELDED (on the front of the crossmember). You only need to remove the BOLTS (from the rear)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6250.JPG



See? Welded.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6251.JPG


Another shot of the crossmember loose:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6255.JPG



Finally, here's a good look at the factory torque converter.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6258.JPG
Mine came out of the car with the paint on it. Interesting.

Are they supposed to rattle when shaken? Mine does! Maybe it's a good thing we are replacing it...

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6264.JPG


Note: the factory converter has STUDS on it, you use nuts to attach it to the flex plate. This makes it a pain putting the motor onto it! The replacement PI converter I got has holes in it for BOLTS, so you can rotate the converter afterwards to line up with the holes in the flex plate. Much easier to do.


(continued in the next post)

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 05:52 PM
Here's the nice clean, and now-empty bellhousing:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6261.JPG


Here's a shot of the transmission mount removed from the crossmember:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6273.JPG


The car has a Dynotech stainless steel driveshaft (previous owner put it on):
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6274.JPG


I was VERY pleased to discover that the previous owner of my car also got the rear tail shaft lube mod done to the tranny along with the shift kit! You can see the line run to the tail output shaft here.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6275.JPG


And where it is run to the front of the transmission:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6276.JPG


Here is what the back of a stock Marauder engine looks like, removed from the car:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6282.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6289.JPG


When we finished up for the night, I got a shot of dad's NA Marauder next to mine with the engine removed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6295.JPG
This winter we are pulling his stock motor out and dropping the Cobra Whipple into it.


IMPORTANT: The Cobra oil pan does NOT fit the Marauder frame, you need to use the Marauder (or another) pan. Also, the Marauder and Cobra pickup tubes are DIFFERENT and the Cobra tube does not clear the baffles on the Marauder pan. You either need to modify the Marauder pan, or swap the tubes.

I wanted to keep the Cobra pump and pickup tube, so some modifications to the Marauder pan are required to fit them:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6387.JPG

Marauder pan at left (modified), Cobra pan at right (it has a deeper midsection than the Marauder pan).


Here's a shot of the old stock motor with more parts removed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6460.JPG



Oh look, another 10 pics already. Time for another post.

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 06:02 PM
I had a surprise waiting for me when I pulled the intake off of the stock motor.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6462.JPG
Ewwwww.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6463.JPG

I have no idea how long THAT's been there!

The original owner stored it out in the country so it's possible it's been there the entire time I owned the car. I have never had mice problems that I know of in my garage. Anyway, it probably didn't help matters much in terms of cooling. Maybe it contributed to my cooked #8 cylinder? :rolleyes:

ANYWAY, I will be checking my motor annually under the intake with an inspection camera going forward!


Here's the stock motor with the manifolds and crank removed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6474.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6479.JPG


Here's the Cobra block with the oil filter adapter and gasket removed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6485.JPG



Next we took the front timing cover off the "new" Cobra engine.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6491.JPG


The car had 72,000 miles on it, and some oil vapor buildup on the inside of the cover:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6492.JPG


Good shot of the timing chains:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6496.JPG


Here's the stock motor with the front timing cover removed.
IMPORTANT: you can remove the timing cover without removing the cam covers (just the front bolts need to come out).

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6502.JPG


(continued in next post)

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 06:13 PM
IMPORTANT: Timing chain tensioner guide wear discussion here.

To compare the two motors, my stock motor came out at just under 70,000KM, which is about 43,000 miles.
The replacement Cobra motor has 78,000 miles on it.

I had envisioned swapping the timing chain guides, assuming my lower mileage stock motor would have less wear.
Turns out I assumed wrong - the stock motor with lower mileage had much more wear than the Cobra motor.

The Cobra motor almost had no wear whatsoever!


In these photos, take note of where the chain links are with respect to the nylon plastic guides (the "height" of the links in the guides).

STOCK MOTOR, 43,000 miles (you can tell the block is aluminum)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6503.JPG


COBRA MOTOR, 78,000 miles (notice the iron block)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6504.JPG


The chain sits much higher in the cobra guides than in the stock marauder motor's.

Here's the passenger side, STOCK MOTOR (43,000 miles)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6506.JPG


COBRA MOTOR (78,000 miles)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6507.JPG


The tensioners themselves are different parts between the two motors. Perhaps the marauder motor tensioners put more tension on the chain than the Cobra one did.

Marauder motor:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6508.JPG


Cobra motor:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6509.JPG


I was quite happy leaving the Cobra guides alone and not messing with the timing chain.


Moving on, here's a couple shots under the covers of the glorious Cobra engine:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6511.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6513.JPG

I showed my wife and for some reason she wasn't all that excited about it.

JoeBoomz
10-05-2013, 06:22 PM
Here's the marauder timing cover pulled off and with fresh gaskets installed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6516.JPG



IMPORTANT: The Marauder timing cover does NOT match the Cobra's.

The bolt to the right of the water pump (from the front) is slightly lower on the Marauder cover, and you cannot put a bolt through that hole.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6521.JPG

We were able to seal the hole with silicone with no adverse effects.
Installing a Cobra cover on a Marauder block will give you the same issue.


I spent an hour doing the final prep work on the Cobra block for intake installation:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6540.JPG
Shiny and good as new!


The Marauder intakes fit the Cobra heads with zero issues:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6541.JPG


Marauder stock COT installed:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6542.JPG


And lastly, the alternator put back on:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-05-2013-EnginePull/IMG_6544.JPG


That's all for this batch, I will try to get the next set of pics up soon with more parts swapping progress and then finally, the Cobra engine installation.

I do have a post to make about some new Gauge installations as well.

03sport007
10-05-2013, 09:34 PM
Looking good!!!!! Bet you can't what to drive it?

BLACKMAGIC03
10-07-2013, 05:52 PM
Nice bro!!!!!!

JoeBoomz
10-15-2013, 08:18 PM
Whew it's been a busy few weeks starting a new career, and at the same time I've been a bit selfish, enjoying my Marauder while I can before the snow flies!

But I owe everyone some more pics, these should tide everyone over until MOTOWN finally gets some results back on HIS sweet build!

Back into the pics!

Here is where we had the flange welded to the intake tubing for the new Vortech Mondo boost bypass valve:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020680.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020671.JPG

This is the pipe that connects AFTER the air to air cooler. In retrospect we should have put it BEFORE the air cooler, to reduce the amount of warm air going into the cooler (and ultimately reducing intake air temps).

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020687.JPG

...BUT in putting the whole thing back together, I'm glad we didn't, because clearance is a major issue when trying to feed the pipe back up and get it lined up and connected to the blower! (anyone who has ever had to do it, you know what I'm talking about)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020689.JPG


The BOV is located inside the fender, right in front of the driver's side front wheel:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6621.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6623.JPG


EXHAUST

Unfortunately I just couldn't fit Headers into the roadmap for this build this year.

With my job on the line, I took too long to decide to order them, and when I finally talked to Marty about getting them, the fastest SW could get them shipped would be three weeks.

With winter coming (and dad's garage space tied up), I just couldn't afford to delay things any further. (sorry Marty, they WILL get ordered, you'll be the first I call!)


So, dad got his master machine shop guy to add bungs to the factory manifolds so we could put a wideband on either side:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020797.JPG


Driver's side was easy, just used the pre-existing EGR hole (EGR is deleted) to attach the bung to.

Passenger side was brand-new hole and bung added.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020805.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020808.JPG

This guy does great work, he's the same one fabbing up Dad's custom fuel hat.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020811.JPG

The manifolds are NOT painted - they were just nicely sandblasted. This is how they looked from the factory!

Unfortunately, they will rust up again eventually - but I keep the car pretty clean and they should last until the headers are ordered.


(continued in next post...)

JoeBoomz
10-15-2013, 08:32 PM
TORQUE CONVERTER

Here's a couple shots of the new Precision Industries converter next to the stock converter.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6579.JPG

Notice how much smaller the PI converter is.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6582.JPG

But the HEIGHT is the same - this is important, as the converter sits at the same depth in the bellhousing. Here are some pics of the converter fully inserted.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6584.JPG

If you are installing one of these and it doesn't go this deep, you need to rotate it push harder. Insert jokes here.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020753.JPG

But seriously, it was a real pain to get in all the way, dad spent a good hour turning it slowly, pushing, turning more, pushing, trying to get it to CLICK into position properly while I was working on the new motor.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6583.JPG

This is a 3000K stall torque converter from Precision Industries.


Initially, I found when driving that 3000K is actually a bit HIGH for my taste. I find that compared to my stock converter, the engine needs to rev more to get the car going now. It almost made the car seem heavier to drive. I might be happier with a 2500K or maybe even lower.

BUT, on a positive note, 3000 RPM is around the point the boost kicks in on my Vortech. Which means that the converter kicks in at the same time, and when the tach crosses the 3 in my car now, you REALLY feel everything work just like magic. So, I may be wrong, and might be unhappy were I to try a slower stall.

After all the work getting it in, I don't want to go swapping it any time soon. Instead, to compensate, I have adjusted my shift points in the tune so the car naturally keeps the RPM's a bit higher at slower speeds - closer to the converter's stall speed. Now I don't feel the issue half as much.



Time to jump around a bit with the pics to catch up from some that I missed in the previous posts.


Here's a shot of the Marauder upper and lower intakes, all in one piece, complete with rails and injectors, ready to drop onto the new engine.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6529.JPG

You can see the blower, alternator, and COT in the background, all the pieces are ready for moving to their new best friend.



Dad got me some new cam covers for my Cobra motor (thanks Dad!) - they REALLY dress it up!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6575.JPG


With all of the parts off of the old stock motor, it was time to trailer it home:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020852.JPG


Here it sits presently in my garage, ready to come apart when I get it on a stand this winter (after we're done with dad's Whipple build)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6596.JPG



(continued in next posts)

JoeBoomz
10-15-2013, 08:45 PM
Speaking of pretty cam covers, here's the Cobra longblock, completely assembled, and ready to drop in, with the new pretty stuff installed on it!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020821.JPG

We kept the COBRA oil dipstick and tube. The Marauder one is longer and harder to use, and it gets in the way of my Vortech intake plumbing. The Cobra one fit the bill perfectly.



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020836.JPG


We were able to move the SVT badge from the original Cobra cam covers that came with the motor to the new covers.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020841.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020842.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020846.JPG


The cam covers have an awesome wrinkle paint on them. We didn't get them painted, we bought them that way (eBay).
I'm looking forward to rocking some car shows next summer when the roads are cleaned up again!


Time to lift the new motor off it's stand and get ready to drop it in!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6599.JPG


Another good look at the rear cooling mod:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6600.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020860.JPG

Notice the black mark by the tensioner - the tensioner appears to be failing a bit, it doesn't hold straight and the belt actually rubs against the timing cover a bit. It may be bending inward somehow. I didn't find any evidence of issues on the belt, however.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020870.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020871.JPG


(continued in next post)

JoeBoomz
10-15-2013, 08:54 PM
And in she goes:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6606.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6607.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020872.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020874.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020875.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020883.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020884.JPG

We hit an issue getting one of the top bellhousing bolts in. Either the block had thread issues (we re-tapped it without any luck), or there is a difference between the cobra and marauder blocks on this bolt. It's almost like the bolt was too long and was hitting the intake or something. A shorter bolt went in perfectly and solved the problem.

We will be re-tapping all of the holes in Dad's block before we get to this stage, to hopefully avoid any issues like this.

No other compatibility issues with the motor install at this point, everything else mated up properly. There was a change between the blocks on the bolt size and thread for the transmission cooler line bracket (that mounts to the block under the passenger exhaust manifold behind the motor mount).

The power steering pump and AC compressor fit the Cobra block perfectly. Zero issues with either of those (but tap the threads out first, the iron block is rusty and screws with your bolts!)

(continued in next post)

JoeBoomz
10-15-2013, 09:02 PM
Here's what the modified driver side manifold looks like with the sensors in place, before we connected up the rest of the exhaust:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020901.JPG



I had been sitting on the fence about one last change on my setup, and my wife finally convinced me that BLACK IS BETTER.

TWO YEARS ago I bought a black upper intake from RR|Suki (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70711). I wasn't sure then if I would ever use it, it kinda turned into a great conversation starter as a decoration in my office.

ANYWAY, back to present time, my wife convinced me that the car would look better with a black upper intake. So off came my factory ("silver") one:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6613.JPG


(ewww)


And on went RR|Suki's work of art:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6620.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6616.JPG

I know I got AT LEAST 20 more horses out of this (color) upgrade.


Here's some shots of the rest of it all coming together and the final connections being made (getting VERY excited at this point!!!)

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020904.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020906.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020910.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020912.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020920.JPG

JoeBoomz
10-15-2013, 09:21 PM
Burping was a fun process, several rounds of "how much coolant did you say the car would take?" and "is there still room for more?!"

In the end it took almost two full jugs of (unmixed) antifreeze (we did a 50/50 mix) for a total of 3.5 jugs of mixed fluid. Quarts, liters, I can't remember any more how much of either it was. I do know that the capacity listed in the car's user manual is WRONG!


Transmission fluid took almost 10 quarts if I remember correctly. No issues there (we did a fluid swap with the torque converter being changed). Note to self: get transmission pan with drain plug.


Here she is, after three months layed up (this is a typo, the correct spelling is censored for SOME boosty reason) - finally running and driveable!
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020927.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020935.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020937.JPG

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020938.JPG


The car is absolutely wild, she breaks traction halfway through acceleration in first, then shifts to second while spinning, and finally catches up in 2nd at about 3000 RPM, where it just keeps on pulling!

I was scared of it before when I had the stock motor in it, now with the Cobra block and more boost, the reduction in compression is completely overcome by the increased air.

In the past week, I have dialed the spark back at 3-6k just to keep it more driveable (and reduce tire wear!).



BOOST VALVE: I don't think the $250 Vortech BOV made a lot of difference. I do have more boost now, so maybe my original little bosch wouldn't be holding up, but it was working fine at the 13PSI I had before. It does have a stronger spring and closes more quickly than the bosch did, however - this is apparent when you let off the gas and hear the supercharger "flutter" noise.


One more important point to note in swapping the cam covers.
PCV valve location is different on driver's side on Cobra cam covers.

Take a look at the stock motor cam cover:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6663.JPG

The PCV hole is directly above the coil cover on the stock Marauder motor.

On the Cobra cam cover:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/IMG_6662.JPG

On the Cobra cover, it is further back. And it has ZERO clearance to the wiper cowl bracket.

I ended up removing the bracket on my car (intentionally breaking the plastic tab off of the cowl) to free up the PCV valve location.


One last pic, here's what started this whole thing:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/Joes Bad Plug.jpg

The plug on the right was from my #8 cylinder.
All other seven plugs from the old motor are perfect!

I haven't pulled it apart yet but my assumption is that #8 overheated due to lack of cooling mod (detonation or preignition), the valves were cooked (cracked likely), and the plug either melted, or somehow contacted the piston. This is consistent with other reports I've seen about the Marauder stock motors. You can tune them as carefully as you want, but a cooling mod should be done in all cases!

Compression test shows that cylinder is low on compression, so the valves definitely have an issue. There is a mark on the piston, either from a piece of valve, or the spark plug. The motor RUNS OK still, it just ticks (and has a bit less power). We took a good look at it when it was on the stand, and the crank is solid, with zero play in the rings, and everything under the cam covers seems nice and tight and moving where and when it should be. I haven't pulled the head off yet, that's a job for later this winter once we're done with Dad's Whipple build. I will update here with pics and findings when it's done.

The old motor always smoked blue on startup (since I got the car) - the new motor does none whatsoever. The old motor also had lots of blow by from the PCV, so I added catch cans - and the new motor also has none of this. The Cobra motors definitely seem to be much better built overall than the stock Marauder motors were.

It's nice to finally have the project DONE, and nice to have my mind at ease about a motor purchase from a wrecked pull! Also, very nice to be driving the Marauder again!


Anyway thanks for following along guys, this project was a ton of fun, and I hope the pictures and notes help someone else who's going the same route.

03sport007
10-15-2013, 09:26 PM
Nice job!!!! Thanks for posting!!

MOTOWN
10-15-2013, 09:57 PM
Great write up Joe, looks good!

Baaad GN
10-16-2013, 12:33 PM
Thanks Joe hopefully we'll see more projects like yours, really interesting!
Now get it tuned!!!!!!!!!!

RR|Suki
10-16-2013, 03:03 PM
Nice work man, glad I could contribute to it in a small way hahahaha.

fastblackmerc
10-16-2013, 03:16 PM
Looks Great!

Congrats!

JoeBoomz
10-17-2013, 07:09 PM
One thing I neglected to mention is the routing of the coolant lines with the addition of the rear cooling mod.

Fluid travels backwards through the engine from the front (where it is pushed by the water pump), out the back of the heads, up to the firewall to connect to the inlet for the heater core, then back out of the heater core to connect to the return tube along the top of the block, back into the water pump inlet.

The line that originally ran from the heater core to the front COT was removed.

The rest of the output from the water pump is circulated through the COT and the radiator as originally from the factory.

In the logging I've done since the new motor install, the hottest I've seen the coolant temp get to is 200F. There is a cylinder temperature that can be logged, but it always seems to have an identical value at all times. This doesn't prove that the engine is cooled any BETTER than before, but it does prove that the coolant flow through the radiator and engine wasn't disrupted by the changes.

TAKEDOWN
10-17-2013, 07:22 PM
STUNNING... Where'd you get the engine I want one, lol!

GreekGod
10-21-2013, 12:01 PM
Your photo essay answered many questions I've had over the years. Very well done.

=========

JoeBoomz
02-12-2014, 03:33 PM
VALENTINES DAY IS COMING!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7426.JPG

:D


Some updates to post here, I'm getting very anxious for warmer weather in 6 weeks!

I dropped in some 60lb SD's, and in my usual form, snapped some pics along the way.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7097.JPG

These came with my dad's Whipple when he bought it (he is using 80's)


BEFORE:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7093.JPG


AFTER
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7095.JPG

So fast, it's blurry.

This side is a bit slower:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7100.JPG


The old 39's next to the new 60's:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7098.JPG


All done and waiting for blower to go back on.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7099.JPG


Still in progress are modifications to ducting and ba5000 MAF.

JoeBoomz
02-12-2014, 03:43 PM
I sent my V-2 S to Vortech for a rebuild (a bit leaky) - but more importantly, an upgrade to an Si!

Here it is, back from its trip, and ready to blow:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7404.JPG

The upgrade from S to Si replaces both the impeller and the volute. I can confirm it is modified because the screw-plugs that used to be at the end of the blower, are now completely sealed off whereas when I sent it in, I could remove them.


Vortech did a very professional job cleaning it and packaging it up for shipping.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7405.JPG



Unfortunately I can't say they did too well with their customer service. I had a rough run with them and was very disappointed.

If I am buying a snail again, it won't be a Vortech.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7411.JPG


I believe the inside here has changed as well, I don't remember being able to see the side of the impeller before here (on the right)
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7408.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7409.JPG



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/02-12-2014-JoeCarUpdates/IMG_7414.JPG


I got the blower back onto the car this weekend (forgot to get a pic) and ordered a custom K&N to strap to the front of the blower. I am deleting the draw-through MAF and the big tube up front, adding a ba5000 before the throttle body, and venting to atmosphere. I still have to reroute some PCV lines but soon I can start working on building a tune for the car again. I will post the process of building the tune from scratch here when I do so.

MOTOWN
02-12-2014, 10:37 PM
Looks sweet Joe! cant wait to see how it runs.

JoeBoomz
04-08-2014, 02:02 PM
Oh thank God, I can finally drive my Marauder again. As you all experienced, this winter was longer than most, here are some of the Albertan highlights:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/IMG_6974.JPG


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-24 03.20.56.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/IMG_6983.JPG




So, if you recall before the winter, this is where I left off, with a draw-through MAF setup (ba3000):

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/10-15-2013-CobraInstall/P1020938.JPG


I decided over the winter that I wanted to convert to a blow-through to see if I could get any improvements with fewer airflow restrictions.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-04 20.19.32.jpg


As posted earlier, my V-2 was reworked by Vortech and upgraded to an Si, and the injectors were swapped out with some 60 lb. SD's.

In addition to those upgrades, I purchased a ba5000 from Summit, a MAF converter wiring harness from Blue Oval Chips, and got a MAF flange on eBay. We had the pipe cut apart and added the flange, and plugged up all of the other holes that used to be used by the old draw-through setup for recirculation.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-17 10.55.34.jpg


Then on a somewhat nicer day (note the snow), I painted the pipes black-ish to match my upper intake and to clean the pipes up after all the ugly fab work done on them:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-08 17.38.19.jpg

Continued in next post....

JoeBoomz
04-08-2014, 02:06 PM
Beforehand, I had a separate IAT (intake air temperature) sensor, wired to the two outside wires on the original MAF harness. Now, I can get rid of the separate sensor and use the inbuilt sensor in the ba5000.

I used the converter plug from Blue Oval Chips to connect the factory MAF plug to the new ba5000, but originally I had no signal from the MAF (0 MAF AD COUNTS).

I had to wiggle the plug to get a signal going through. This could have been a poor contact in the plug, or more likely a bad joint on my factory MAF plug. Not willing to take any chances, I cut the factory MAF plug off and wired the new MAF harness directly into my original factory wiring. Wires were soldered and then heat-shrinked.

Some pictures along the way:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.03.26.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.05.03.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.13.13.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.13.55.jpg



http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.27.18.jpg


Continued in next post...

JoeBoomz
04-08-2014, 02:49 PM
IMPORTANT: PCV System Discussion Here!


Before the intake change, I had the following setup:

Passenger side PCV - piped to intake between blower inlet and MAF (no valve)
Driver side PCV - Cobra PCV valve, pipe to upper intake on motor

This allowed circulation:

- at idle by drawing from the passenger side cam cover, through the crankcase, and then into the intake via the driver side cam cover
- at non-boost TP's from the intake manifold (driver side), through the crankcase, out the passenger side cam cover, then into the blower
- closed at boost

The problem is, when the car is blown, the suction through the crankcase drew a lot of oil out of the PCV connectors, and you'd need catch cans to keep it clean. But otherwise this configuration worked VERY well.



Now that we are getting rid of the draw-thru configuration, we no longer have a "sweet spot" to put the passenger side PCV valve that is before the blower, but after the MAF. We do not want to introduce unmetered air into the system.

But, the PCV system plays a VERY important role in keeping fumes and vapor out of the crankcase, which when added to your oil, can become corrosive and cause engine issues!

I considered a few different configurations. Some people put a breather on one side of the crankcase, and keep the other side on the intake (with a PCV valve), so that at vacuum conditions there is still fresh air drawn into the crankcase. I didn't want to do this, because it introduces unmetered air into the system (into the intake through the crankcase).

Here's a nice K&N breather, plugs right into the PCV holes on the cam covers:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-26 16.57.01.jpg


Another thought would be to route both PCV connections to the upper intake as before, and have them both feed into the intake at idle speeds. The problem here is that you need two PCV valves, and there is no air movement in the PCV whatsoever under boost (when the most crankcase byproducts are being generated). If you try without PCV valves, you will put boost into the crankcase, which can cause a very messy situation.

Lastly, you could say screw it, and put breathers on both sides. THIS WILL ACTUALLY WORK. It smells, but it works. The "problem" here is that no fresh air goes into the crankcase. It only generates fumes and builds up, and some of it bleeds out of the breathers. Much of the vapor and fumes will still sit in the crankcase, defeating the whole purpose of having the holes in the cam covers for PCV.


In ye olde days, the original PCV systems were very simple. Run a hose downwards and let the airflow over the tip of the hose suck the fumes out of the engine. It actually worked. It smelled, but it did the job. Later on they figured out that they could recirculate that crap and burn it off in the combustion process, making things less smelly and making the treehuggers happier at the same time.


My solution is to put a breather in the passenger side, then draw the air through the driver side by way of a 12V vacuum pump, which exhausts out the underside of the car by a hose. So, we have constant airflow into the passenger side through the breather through the crankcase, out the passenger side, into a catch can, through the pump, and then out to the bottom of the car. It doesn't smell pretty but the output exhaust can be directed at the rear of the vehicle with the regular exhaust and won't bug the occupants.


Enough reading, let's look at some more pictures. To set up a 12V pump always on at ignition time, we need to take apart the ignition harness. That's the grey plug under the master brake cylinder:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.46.25.jpg


I took off the fancy factory electrical tape and wire loom:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 20.47.24.jpg
...and discovered that someone had to make a correction to the harness at the factory, just like they did with dad's Marauder. Here's a splice done exactly like we saw in his harness.


Anyway, the ignition wire I used was YELLOW/WHITE, here's a completed shot with the harness all wrapped up again:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 21.10.43.jpg



A shot of the 12V vacuum pump attached to the factory vacuum "tank":
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 21.43.46.jpg



And a quick look at the finished product:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-03-19 22.11.39.jpg

We have:
- out from driver's side PCV hole in cam cover
- into JLT catch can
- out from catch can and into vacuum pump
- out from vacuum pump and dumped to underside of car


So the vacuum pump starts up when the car ignition is on, and the stinky stuff is sucked from the crankcase and dumped to the underside of the car.


Continued in next post...

JoeBoomz
04-08-2014, 02:56 PM
I measured the Vortech blower inlet at 3.5" and found that I had about 6" of space to the rad. Scouring the K&N fitment charts, the biggest filter I found that I could fit on the blower in that space was this guy:

RC-5040 - Universal Chrome Filter
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=rc-5040



I couldn't be happier with how it looks and fits.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-18 17.46.21.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-18 17.46.07.jpg


Pics of it with the passenger side breather also installed:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-26 16.59.19.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-02-26 16.59.47.jpg



And the car, as it is running today, outside in the warm spring sunshine!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-04-08 10.44.31.jpg


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/04-08-2014-BlowThruMAF/2014-04-08 10.44.34.jpg




Sadly, tomorrow's forecast has snow in it again :mad2:

GreekGod
04-08-2014, 07:01 PM
You said:

"In ye olde days, the original PCV systems were very simple. Run a hose downwards and let the airflow over the tip of the hose suck the fumes out of the engine."

Technically, the "hose" was steel tubing, called a road draft tube, and yes, the vacuum created by motion of air across the bottom opening, at speed, helped relieve crankcase pressure. It was typically connected on top to the intake manifold, and had a wire mesh screen/baffle to separate out engine oil

=======================

MOTOWN
04-08-2014, 08:59 PM
Lookin good Joe! whats up with your Dads Whipple project?

JoeBoomz
04-09-2014, 12:08 PM
Lookin good Joe! whats up with your Dads Whipple project?


We are making (slow) progress on it a weekend at a time. I've just been very slow at posting the updates here, getting pics together, etc.

In dad's car, got the triple fuel pumps in and the big lines are run, have the radiator and coolers all set in place for brackets fabrication, and are working on getting sway bars swapped out. Still to order is a new drive shaft and transmission, and I'm still waiting on Metco to get our order shipped (control arms, watts link, etc.). As you know, it's never ending!!!


Oh and, yes we did get snow again today! grrrrr...

1stMerc
04-09-2014, 12:26 PM
Looking good, Joe. Get that tune adjusted yet?

JoeBoomz
04-09-2014, 02:42 PM
Looking good, Joe. Get that tune adjusted yet?

Thanks! The tune is mostly dialed in, I did it last weekend. The ba5000 seems no different to tune than the ba2400 or ba3000 did - you just have to account for the size of pipe you are using to start with. I checked the STFT's last night and they are in the .98 range, so there is only a 2% offage on the MAF reading to correct (and it shows my wideband is working properly too).


I do have a "lazy" 3-4 shift now that has cropped up, I wonder if the OD band is wearing on the tranny. Had zero issues before the winter. The car will rev like it's in neutral on occasion instead of going into 4th. Let off the pedal and it falls into 4th. Turn off OD and the problem goes away. I went through all the transmission parameters in the tune three times now and can't spot anything obvious. I have still to try adjusting some of the 3-4 shift points as well as increasing the line pressures, but don't have a lot of hope :(
EDIT: increasing pressures resolved the issue - see below posts.

The transmission was upgraded with an ArtCarr stage 2 transmission kit and a tailshaft lube mod about 8 years ago by the original owner, so it's possible the (Kevlar) OD band has worn out since. The OD band has always been a weak point in these transmissions.

GreekGod
04-09-2014, 05:31 PM
would slipping clutches in the converter cause the slipping?

=================

Comin' in Hot
04-09-2014, 06:00 PM
I like your air filter. I've been wanting to change to a blow thru MAF, and this would be perfect due to my water to air setup and the air filter being located down behind the passenger side fog light. What effect does the location have on your IAT?

JoeBoomz
04-10-2014, 09:41 AM
would slipping clutches in the converter cause the slipping?

=================

That's possible, the converter is new from PI and was just put in last September. But the issue only seems to be happening in 4th so I've ruled out the converter for now.




I like your air filter. I've been wanting to change to a blow thru MAF, and this would be perfect due to my water to air setup and the air filter being located down behind the passenger side fog light. What effect does the location have on your IAT?

IAT takes a big jump in traffic now. I need to come up with a basic heat shield to block that portion of the rad or to separate the underside of the filter from the rad area. The other day I logged when was about 75F outside, IAT's were 100 and when I was sitting still in traffic for 20 minutes, IAT's came up to about 140. They dropped back down once the car started moving again with airflow through the intercooler. Spark retardation worked perfectly with the heat - it was a good way to test the tune.

Comin' in Hot
04-10-2014, 06:23 PM
IAT takes a big jump in traffic now. I need to come up with a basic heat shield to block that portion of the rad or to separate the underside of the filter from the rad area. The other day I logged when was about 75F outside, IAT's were 100 and when I was sitting still in traffic for 20 minutes, IAT's came up to about 140. They dropped back down once the car started moving again with airflow through the intercooler. Spark retardation worked perfectly with the heat - it was a good way to test the tune.

That was my fear, with a water to air it would act like a giant heat sync because I don't have unlimited fluid like you have unlimited air flow.

My only option would be to relocated the battery and make an airbox where the battery currently is located

lji372
04-10-2014, 06:26 PM
That was my fear, with a water to air it would act like a giant heat sync because I don't have unlimited fluid like you have unlimited air flow.

My only option would be to relocated the battery and make an airbox where the battery currently is located

Couldn't you put the battery on the passenger side like with an eaton swap?? :dunno:

Comin' in Hot
04-10-2014, 06:43 PM
Couldn't you put the battery on the passenger side like with an eaton swap?? :dunno:

Nope, that's where my intercooler is
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/Marauders/1234870_527066804031139_150995 1262_n_zps7a10f81b.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Witman40/media/Marauders/1234870_527066804031139_150995 1262_n_zps7a10f81b.jpg.html)

JoeBoomz
04-11-2014, 10:21 AM
I do have a "lazy" 3-4 shift now that has cropped up, I wonder if the OD band is wearing on the tranny. Had zero issues before the winter. The car will rev like it's in neutral on occasion instead of going into 4th. Let off the pedal and it falls into 4th. Turn off OD and the problem goes away. I went through all the transmission parameters in the tune three times now and can't spot anything obvious. I have still to try adjusting some of the 3-4 shift points as well as increasing the line pressures, but don't have a lot of hope :(


I increased the pressures on the 34 shift - and the problem has not reoccurred since! While this is encouraging, I realize I may still be on "borrowed time" with the OD band...




Nope, that's where my intercooler is
<sweet picture> (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Witman40/media/Marauders/1234870_527066804031139_150995 1262_n_zps7a10f81b.jpg.html)

Looks like your PCV system is still set up as it came from the factory. When I swapped to a cobra PCV valve on the drivers side and ran it into the upper intake, and then ran the passenger side PCV connector (no valve) to the intlet on the blower, the performance actually seemed to increase a bit and I gained a bit more boost. I don't know if the rerouting is the cause for the improvement, but I don't think the stock PCV valve is up to the task with a blower added.

Jeronimojc
01-09-2015, 11:19 AM
Just wanted to say wesome thread! Will definitely be using it for reference shortly.