yet another timing chain tensioner and chain guide thread

[svtguy]

I just wanted to add my experience to those of the others who have had this common problem.

My issue began when I heard this (link in first post)...http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=87979.

When I got the timing cover off, I discovered this. Notice plastic lining completely broke off from guide.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/701/medium/IMG_79161.JPG

When I got the arm off I saw more damage...The tensioner plunger also showed chain wear just beginning.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/701/summer_2013_DC_marauder_002.JP G (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/22905/title/summer-2013-dc-marauder-002/cat/701)

The driver side components had no damage at all so I did not touch them. I also left the chains themselves in place. When I got the new oem parts on, it looked like this.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/701/summer_2013_DC_marauder_001.JP G (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/22904/title/summer-2013-dc-marauder-001/cat/701)

Before putting it back together, I lowered the oil pan, got my arm in there and retrieved these broken plastic pieces!!

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/701/summer_2013_DC_marauder_006.JP G (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/22909/title/summer-2013-dc-marauder-006/cat/701)

Had I not got those out of the pan, I'm sure they would have clogged the pick up tube at some point and by by motor.

I won't repeat all the steps involved in completing this job as they have been well documented already. The only tips I might add are:

a) removing steering pump pulley is not a necessity. The whole pump can be removed/lowered and moved to the side.
b) do not over tighten timing cover bolts. I broke one and it wasn't easy to get it out. Nor was I the person you wanted to be near when it happened.
c) if you decide to not change the chains, zip tie them in place and be sure they do not move! Mark chain position.
d) carefully lift the cam covers so that the gasket does not come out of its groove. The passenger side came out for me and I could not get it back on without removing the cover completely.
e) refer to member writeups by Blakened300a and justbob and you should be golden. Also some good info on crownvic.net.

I was going to take the car to a shop to have it done but all my estimates came back between $1,200 to $1,800. I understand why as it is labor intensive but I had more time than money so had to do it myself. Car runs fine and that nasty rattle is long gone, knock on wood.

Special thanks to all the members here on mm.net for all the info available here, especially to justbob, Blackened300a, fastblackmerc, Racerx and others, you know who you are...:beer: You guys rock!

[Krytin]

Did you have to remove the chains or just zip tied them to hold them in place because of the extra slack when the old tensioner assembly was removed?

Nice work - I may be doing this soon before it falls apart!

[WhatsUpDOHC]

You dodged a bullet there! Nice.

[justbob]

Nice talking to ya! Glad it all worked out.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[svtguy]

I did not remove chains. I zip tied them and they held pretty good. But the cam still moved slightly when I removed the tensioner. It seems like you're going to get a bit of cam movement no matter what, or now matter how tight you zip tie them.

It wasn't easy getting the arm back on, as it was now a a tighter fit. When the cam moved, it created more tension on the chain and now the arm wouldn't fit underneath chain. I had to create a bit more slack to get the arm back on. Was a big ordeal as I was worried about screwing timing but I was able to rotate the cams back the bit of space they moved. I probably should have lined it up at TDC beforehand to avoid that.

[vegasmarauder]

As a tip to others doing this, move the engine by hand until the timing marks on the crank sprocket are at the bottom and the cam sprokets are near the top of each cam. Mark the respective chain link that is lined up with the marks bfore removing anything. Then you can shift the cams slightly if needed to get everything back on and have a way to check the cam timing.