broken tail shaft. whats next

[bigmerc281]

ive been hearing a noise this past week so i took my car apart this weekend thinking the noise was the u joints turns out it was tail shaft housing. is there a upgraded version of the tail shaft i can install maybe hardened shaft durable bearings ect. i have 410s j mod and a lidio tune that may of caused the damage any help would be appreciated thanks
i have a video of the damage
http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/bigmerc281/media/VID_20130831_134135.mp4.html

[fastblackmerc]

Unless you do triple digit driving for long periods of time the tune & 4.10's probably had nothing to do with the tail shaft failing.

[bigmerc281]

Unless you do triple digit driving for long periods of time the tune & 4.10's probably had nothing to do with the tail shaft failing.

I read somewhere that if you go.410s you would.have to do something called a forced tail shaft mod

[SC Cheesehead]

I read somewhere that if you go.410s you would.have to do something called a forced tail shaft mod

If you can find the link, post it up; first I've heard that.

[bigmerc281]

If you can find the link, post it up; first I've heard that.

http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=74

Heard it from this page

[Mike M]

My shop did that on a Marauder years ago, I totally forgot about that.

[justbob]

I read somewhere that if you go.410s you would.have to do something called a forced tail shaft mod

Load of bull from some justifying anal upgrades. I ran 4.30's in numerous triple digit runs and never even had a leaky seal. I am not the only one to have done so well.

Now, I am a sucker for upgrades obviously, but I would never steer anyone towards mods that aren't a must. There is so many other things that would benefit more to be upgraded. Now, if you have already modded half your car that's another story. But personal experience of 92,000 on the stock trans and driveshaft with me driving and never once a hiccup is all I need. Everyone drives different, maybe you hit 130 and keep it there? That would be a whole different discussion.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[bigmerc281]

Load of bull from some justifying anal upgrades. I ran 4.30's in numerous triple digit runs and never even had a leaky seal. I am not the only one to have done so well.

Now, I am a sucker for upgrades obviously, but I would never steer anyone towards mods that aren't a must. There is so many other things that would benefit more to be upgraded. Now, if you have already modded half your car that's another story. But personal experience of 92,000 on the stock trans and driveshaft with me driving and never once a hiccup is all I need. Everyone drives different, maybe you hit 130 and keep it there? That would be a whole different discussion.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30984

I don't usually travel at high speeds well not any thing passed 110. My seal is leaking. Im kind of.confused on how should.I approach the repair

[justbob]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30984

I don't usually travel at high speeds well not any thing passed 110. My seal is leaking. Im kind of.confused on how should.I approach the repair

If you have the coin go for it. I would simply replace the seal and run it. But if you tail shaft is worn then you need to replace it anyhow. I can't get your link to work on my phone.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[SC Cheesehead]

If the seal is leaking, just replace it.

There are literally hundreds of us running 4.10s with extensive miles on the cars with no issues.

[bigmerc281]

If the seal is leaking, just replace it.

There are literally hundreds of us running 4.10s with extensive miles on the cars with no issues.

Ok.so.i wouldnt have to spend the extra money on a new tailshaft.Did you see the link I posted how would i approach that fix

[bigmerc281]

If you have the coin go for it. I would simply replace the seal and run it. But if you tail shaft is worn then you need to replace it anyhow. I can't get your link to work on my phone.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I could move the tailshaft 1/4 of a inch up and down ill try to get the link video to work

[bigmerc281]

My shop did that on a Marauder years ago, I totally forgot about that.

Do you remember how much play the shaft had and how.would I aproach this fix

[Mike M]

Do you remember how much play the shaft had and how.would I aproach this fix


No, I never checked it as the car was pretty new. I think he got the parts from Rienhardt.

[Krytin]

I could move the tailshaft 1/4 of a inch up and down ill try to get the link video to work

There should NOT be 1/4" of play up and down or side to side where the driveshaft yoke slips into the tail shaft!
There should be no visible play there. In & out is ok - no up & down.

There is a bushing in the end of the tail shaft that is replaceable. Also check the yoke on the outside surface where the bushing & seal ride on it for grooves or wear. Hopefully there is no damage to the output shaft on the tranny.
I would not drive too much and not at highway speed until this is repaired!

Edit: Just saw the video - you need the yoke slipped into the tail shaft to test fit that bushing. The output shaft in the transmission does NOT ride directly on the end bushing in the tail shaft - the drive shaft yoke does!

[yjmud]

the bushing is like seven dollars if you are handy you can do the forced lube for fifty yourself

[SergntMac]

A very long time ago, I performed a test for a tail shaft lubrication system. It was a strong consideration at the time when 4:10 and higher gear ratios were growing popular. I started with a new tail shaft assembly (seals, bearings, gasket and all) and I concocted a line from the oil pan to the tail shaft using brake line. It was my belief at the time that lacking luberication, the increased rotation would have an impact on bearing life, not to mention adding a semi-cooling affect as well. Creating and installing the mod went rather easy. It should have, it's really a simple and easy mod if you have access to a lift.

Can't say I can articulate any real benefit, other than to say that luberication of the tail shaft caused me to relax a bit about this topic. Remember, I am speaking about th "1X" Marauder which came to life as an experimental automobile. None of us had more than 15-20K miles on our cars, and there was an awful lot of "what if" dialogue here. Never finished the experiment so I have no "+ =" to report. To my knowledge, the 1X "Patches" went on to serve as a police cruiser in Honolulu HI. Last I heard, she was looking forward to retirement and her boss was able to keep her. So...no reports of success or failure.

Based on what you have posted so far, I suggest a full replacement of all tail shaft materials, flush the tranny, replace the filter (avoiding any contamination from old fluid) and don't bother with the tail shaft luberication mod.

Happy motoring, Gents, and be safe
Mac.

[Krytin]

The forced lube mod that Jerry W. outlines in some of the documentation about the transmission takes oil from a pressurized source on the side of the case, not the oil pan.
The problem with the tail shaft bushing is that it relies on oil "splashing" onto it in the end of the tail shaft housing - there is no dedicated supply of oil under pressure to the bushing. Under normal conditions this appears to be enough. Under extended high speed runs the oil that is there can get very hot and gets spun away from the bushing which can lead to premature failure.
Most civilians won't (or shouldn't) be driving at these extended high speeds to cause a problem. People how actually run their cars on a large enough road course may have a need for the pressurized tail shaft lube modification.

A bushing that develops a 1/4" of play may have another problem with oil getting to it. It may be as simple as running w/low oil level in the transmission. Or it may have just worn out!


Edit: Just saw the video - you need the yoke slipped into the tail shaft to test fit that bushing. The output shaft in the transmission does NOT ride directly on the end bushing in the tail shaft - the drive shaft yoke does!

[MOTOWN]

I have the forced lube tail shaft mod from blue oval chips and you have to drop the trans Xmember to remove and replace.

[sailsmen]

I had the forced tail shaft mod done at a nominal cost when I was having my trans built.

As respects the drive shaft for high speed and 4:10 it is definitely a consideration. The OEM shaft lacks stiffness at high speeds w/ 4:10 causing the shaft to become out of round which can destroy the tail shaft housing.

Here is a very informative although 10 year old thread;
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5195&highlight=tail+shaft

[Dennis Reinhart]

The drive shaft is normally what causes this, adding a good shaft and the forced lube mod will cure this.