Marauder vs CVP71 brakes

[gnxtc2]

I drive a 2011 CV P71 for work. The P71's brake bite with the slightest amount of pressure on the brake pedal.

My '04 Marauder, the brake pedal travels way down and doesn't brake as good as the P71. I have 16K on the Marauder.

Aside from going to aftermarket parts, why does the P71 brake so much better than the Marauder?

Thanks

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

[lifespeed]

The CVPI brake components are all in good condition, vs the worn-out Marauder? The seals in the master cylinder are 10 years old, rotors could be warped, floating pins in the calipers could be sticky. I know you've only got 16K miles, but . . . if your brakes don't work right something is wrong and needs to be fixed.

[Guittard22]

P71 were made with bigger brakes for Pursuit stop and go on a dime

[lifespeed]

They come from the factory with a "cop chip" that makes them even faster than a Marauder. Bulletproof tires too.

[RoyLPita]

P71 were made with bigger brakes for Pursuit stop and go on a dime

Not true. I had CVPI take off pads on my MM. The only reason why I didn't have them on for long was they were excessively dusty.

As for the pedal fell of a 10 year old MM, flush out the brake fluid.

[fastblackmerc]

Not true. I had CVPI take off pads on my MM. The only reason why I didn't have them on for long was they were excessively dusty.

As for the pedal fell of a 10 year old MM, flush out the brake fluid.

Replace the brake hoses with SS hoses from TCE, then flush out the old fluid.

[capt512]

I have noticed the same thing as well, drove a used 05 CV and 09 GMQ and both had much better pedal feel. It appears to good pedal feel is all but impossible to get. I have the SS TCE lines (made very little difference if any in my case), new rotors, new pads, new fluid, etc and I still go way to the floor before stopping.

[fordmike65]

We service local PD & Highway Patrol cars here at the dealer. When I first got my MM a few weeks ago, I too noticed a considerable difference between the newer P71's & my MM brake pedal travel & braking performance. I recently installed TCE's stainless braided lines & bled the brk system. Pedal came up a bit, but still not like the police vehicles. I then flushed the system using a pressure flusher we use here. Not much of a difference. Finally I decided to perform a complete HCU bleed procedure using the IDS which actually cycles all the HCU's valves while you depress the brake pedal. You then go from wheel to wheel bleeding out the old fluid & topping of the master cyl. Boy what a difference! This baby stops on a dime & asks for change! I definately recommend anyone to have this done. Here we charge 1 hr labor plus fluid, so price will depend on your local dealer's labor rate.

[wannaMM]

To correct my "Deep" petal on the brakes I took the following action....
On replacing my master cyl ,I "adjusted the "Pusher rod" that activates the master.
I adjusted it outward less than 1/8" and got some of the pedal travel back.
Care must be excersized as not to make it "too" long , and cause the brakes to drag.
I'll unstrap the master again in the near future,making another minor adjustment until I get the petal response (depth) that I'm comfortable with...Just my .02....

[vegasmarauder]

I have noticed that once the MM cycles the ABS system via either bleeding or a hard stop that activates the ABS system, the pedal seems to come uphigher and get a better feel. Don't know if it just some old brake fluid collecting in the ABS controler or what, but have noticed it on 2 MM's. So...take it out, hit the brakes hard from 45 MPH to activate the ABS system (stand on the brakes hard) and see what happens. I have "reset" the brakes on a few MM's by doing this. strange, but true...

[lji372]

We service local PD & Highway Patrol cars here at the dealer. When I first got my MM a few weeks ago, I too noticed a considerable difference between the newer P71's & my MM brake pedal travel & braking performance. I recently installed TCE's stainless braided lines & bled the brk system. Pedal came up a bit, but still not like the police vehicles. I then flushed the system using a pressure flusher we use here. Not much of a difference. Finally I decided to perform a complete HCU bleed procedure using the IDS which actually cycles all the HCU's valves while you depress the brake pedal. You then go from wheel to wheel bleeding out the old fluid & topping of the master cyl. Boy what a difference! This baby stops on a dime & asks for change! I definately recommend anyone to have this done. Here we charge 1 hr labor plus fluid, so price will depend on your local dealer's labor rate.


Thanks for the post:beer:

Looks like a trip to a stealership is in my future. Went to a local place before Louisville for this issue. They bled them but no change. They still feel too soft for my liking.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I have replaced the brake booster, master, calipers, and rubber hoses on my 03 Marauder, as well as tried many pad formulations, because I was always unhappy w/ the brake travel and effort. I have read other accounts over the years from other picky people who have the same finding as you. I have also cycled the abs and re bled many times. The Marauder uses the 2001-2002 crown vic/marquis/town car booster, not the same booster the newer crown vic/marquis's use. The newer booster is definitely different effort.

My new project is putting a new 2004-2011 crown victoria brake booster in my Marauder, which requires also changing the brake pedal assy to the crown vic's. If you are interested in the results I will report back. I have hated the brakes on this car for years and I finally am at a point where I'm going to try this. I was thinking about putting a big brake kit on my car but I don't want to do that until I am satisfied w/ the pedal feel stock.

I am buying the following right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-OEM-BRAKE-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-3W1Z-2455-BA-/280838880677?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41634d3da5&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350875417826

[ctrlraven]

I have replaced the brake booster, master, calipers, and rubber hoses on my 03 Marauder, as well as tried many pad formulations, because I was always unhappy w/ the brake travel and effort. I have read other accounts over the years from other picky people who have the same finding as you. I have also cycled the abs and re bled many times. The Marauder uses the 2001-2002 crown vic/marquis/town car booster, not the same booster the newer crown vic/marquis's use. The newer booster is definitely different effort.

My new project is putting a new 2004-2011 crown victoria brake booster in my Marauder, which requires also changing the brake pedal assy to the crown vic's. If you are interested in the results I will report back. I have hated the brakes on this car for years and I finally am at a point where I'm going to try this. I was thinking about putting a big brake kit on my car but I don't want to do that until I am satisfied w/ the pedal feel stock.

I am buying the following right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-FORD-OEM-BRAKE-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-3W1Z-2455-BA-/280838880677?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41634d3da5&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350875417826
Interesting info, thanks for posting it.

I have been unhappy with my brake pedal feel also. The last component I have to replace is the brake booster but will wait to see what your test results return. I'm tired of the pedal going half way down before it starts to catch and then apply a little more pressure and it will start to really grab and bite.

I replaced the master cylinder earlier this year, bled ABS and old school method several times (made no pedal feel difference), have Goodridge stainless lines (thought about getting TCE ss lines), calipers are all in good working condition and installed new slot type raybestos rotors and matching pads all around. When on the brakes they bite and stop the car but just the pedal travel/feedback sucks especially after driving any of my other vehicles for a while and then I have to remind myself the MM is different.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

When I changed my stock booster for another 2003 Marauder booster, the travel and feel was unchanged. Unless your booster is blown (and you would have zero assist, you can test the diaphragm by pumping the brakes when the car is off, you should get a couple assisted pumps before it goes hard) I doubt that will fix it. I have had my car since it had 23k miles and its original brakes and it has always sucked. I will have this done over the next couple of weeks, I find myself driving the car less and less specifically because everything else I have stops better and in traffic, that annoys me. I feel the same way you do, every time I drive the Marauder, the first time I hit the brakes I remember "holy crap, these brakes suck". Will report back, stay tuned.

[ctrlraven]

Yeah 3rd brake pump when the car is off the brakes are super firm. I am usually pretty easy on brakes and have always given myself extra space to brake when following a car. Problem with that is it's enough room for someone to dart right in and possibly having to slam on my brakes as traffic comes to an abrupt stop.

[fastblackmerc]

I fixed my brakes on the MM with the addition of a set of Wilwoods from TCE. :D

[TORINO]

My problem is my BLK with low miles work great even touchy my BLK dd works just fine. But my DTR and DPB not so a bit lower pedal and softer. The stopping power is there but the feel sucks. DTR and DPB have traction control but i had a 04 CV and it had traction control and brakes were great so whats up ????

[BlkMamba24]

My problem is my BLK with low miles work great even touchy my BLK dd works just fine. But my DTR and DPB not so a bit lower pedal and softer. The stopping power is there but the feel sucks. DTR and DPB have traction control but i had a 04 CV and it had traction control and brakes were great so whats up ????

Sweet baby jesus you've got 4 Marauders :bows:

[RF Overlord]

I just replaced the front calipers, pads and rotors on Mary's car with the Raybestos Police series on Sunday. Now that she's driven it a bit, maybe she'll chime in with how they feel.

[MM03MOK]

I just replaced the front calipers, pads and rotors on Mary's car with the Raybestos Police series on Sunday. Now that she's driven it a bit, maybe she'll chime in with how they feel.

So far, so good! I've done a little hard braking to bed them and the car stops with no studder or wiggling. No ABS light either. Ya, they're not a BBK but I'm mostly stock. The pedal feels firm under foot. Just a slight mouse-like squeal as I'm driving but I haven't put many miles on Phoebe yet since the swap-out.

[GreekGod]

... I then flushed the system using a pressure flusher we use here. Not much of a difference. Finally I decided to perform a complete HCU bleed procedure using the IDS which actually cycles all the HCU's valves while you depress the brake pedal ... I definately recommend anyone to have this done. Here we charge 1 hr labor plus fluid ...

Please--what is "HCU" and "IDS"

=================

[lifespeed]

Hydraulic Control Unit. IDS is the ford tool that can cycle the HCU valves during bleed for a complete purge of any air.

[GreekGod]

OK--got it--thanks

========

[Chevyguy]

My 04 MM also has a mushy pedal similar to my old 2001 P-73 Vic, it's been that way since I got it with 50K miles 3 years ago.

My 04 P-74 Vic however has a nice firm pedal... And it has 145k miles vs 102K for the MM

My 0.02 something in the Master cyl or HCU is to blame. If I bleed the MM or activate the ABS the pedal is firm for some time but softens up again.

[chief455]

WOW! The first thread I've read since buying my 04 MM and not liking the low pedal feel on test drive. Sadly, I'm not alone and really didn't find a solution right here. Maybe the dealer HCU flush.....

[nusbd]

most marauders are low miles, and long between maintenance intervals, the brake fluid grabs moisture and pedal gets mushy, recommend two weekends in a row doing a brake fluid bleed/flush at all 4 corners working in rotation from opposite corners, there is so much hide out in the abs, time and fluid motion is needed to dry them out. if you have a vacuum bleed kit, you may get lucky and only have to do it once. dont forget to check the vacuum line, any air leak or hose rot drops performance.