Lidio tunes

[ShinerBlack]

Received my tuner from AlternativAuto last week and installed today. OMG OMG. Well,,, so far as advertised. Immediately noticed the improved transmission shifting and the delayed TC lock up. I've been around this forum for a while and just would not pull the trigger on the tuner. Should have done this so very long ago. :banana:Thanks Lidio !!!!!

[Guittard22]

What you pay on it ?

[guspech750]

:lol:

:lol:

So many people have said they same thing. "I should have bought a tune sooner" or "Why did I wait so long".

Awesome man. Glad your having MORE fun now :burnout:


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[ShinerBlack]

No big mods, stock is just terrific on this car. When I bought this car, the wifey was not impressed,,,until she drove it. It has been her daily driver since day one. I drive the econo box for the longer commute to work. I have used this forum for repair and maintenance suggestions. First it was the wheel alignment issues, and then the headlight control module, A/C controls, and now the tuner to correct the transmission shifting. You guys have saved me thousands. So no other performance mods planned,,,,yet. Great to be a part of the family.

[sam]

Anyone have Lidio contact?. Also what is the problem with alignment on
these cars?

[Mebot]

Anyone have Lidio contact?. Also what is the problem with alignment on
these cars?

The problem with the alignment is that our cars came from the factory with staggered sized tires. If you had the oem BF Goodrich tires you probably experienced severe inner tire wear on your fronts and severe balding in the middle of your rear tires.

Keeping your tires properly inflated provides extra mileage but the best thing is to get CarFixer's alignment as well as another brand tire that last longer.


sent from a Samsung Galaxy far far away..

[fastblackmerc]

The problem with the alignment is that our cars came from the factory with staggered sized tires. If you had the oem BF Goodrich tires you probably experienced severe inner tire wear on your fronts and severe balding in the middle of your rear tires.

Keeping your tires properly inflated provides extra mileage but the best thing is to get CarFixer's alignment as well as another brand tire that last longer.


sent from a Samsung Galaxy far far away..

The staggered sizes has nothing to do with the alignment problem and the bald center section of the rear tires is an air pressure issue.

carfixers post on MCM.com on 1/13/2007 explains it all.

"A friend of mine needed these today, so I thoght I'd post up the alignment specs for reference.

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)
That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: -.3 to -.5 degrees.
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street. "

I print these out and bring it when I get my alignment done. Alignment techs are more likely to set up the alignment to these specs when you explain why your requesting different specs that the factory provides.

[fordmike65]

The staggered sizes has nothing to do with the alignment problem and the bald center section of the rear tires is an air pressure issue.

carfixers post on MCM.com on 1/13/2007 explains it all.

"A friend of mine needed these today, so I thoght I'd post up the alignment specs for reference.

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)
That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: -.3 to -.5 degrees.
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street. "

I print these out and bring it when I get my alignment done. Alignment techs are more likely to set up the alignment to these specs when you explain why your requesting different specs that the factory provides.


These are the settings I used after reading about them here. I had just done my alignment after purchasing my MM, but redid it right away. I even modified the specs on the alignment machine. My MM did indeed have spme pretty severe inner edge wear. Hoping to run on these tires for a bit longer before having to spring for 2 fronts.

[Curless]

Anyone have Lidio contact?. Also what is the problem with alignment on
these cars?


http://www.alternativeauto.com/Home.html

[fastblackmerc]

What you pay on it ?

I'd contact Lidio or Martyo for that info.............

[Mr. Man]

The staggered sizes has nothing to do with the alignment problem and the bald center section of the rear tires is an air pressure issue.

carfixers post on MCM.com on 1/13/2007 explains it all.

"A friend of mine needed these today, so I thoght I'd post up the alignment specs for reference.

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)
That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: -.3 to -.5 degrees.
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street. "

I print these out and bring it when I get my alignment done. Alignment techs are more likely to set up the alignment to these specs when you explain why your requesting different specs that the factory provides.

Jim I know you've been waiting a life time to hear it so with this magnificent advice here goes:

Umm hum Testify!!! :rock::beer::2thumbs:

[fastblackmerc]

The staggered sizes has nothing to do with the alignment problem and the bald center section of the rear tires is an air pressure issue.

carfixers post on MCM.com on 1/13/2007 explains it all.

"A friend of mine needed these today, so I thoght I'd post up the alignment specs for reference.

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)
That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: -.3 to -.5 degrees.
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street. "

I print these out and bring it when I get my alignment done. Alignment techs are more likely to set up the alignment to these specs when you explain why your requesting different specs that the factory provides.

Jim I know you've been waiting a life time to hear it so with this magnificent advice here goes:

Umm hum Testify!!! :rock::beer::2thumbs:

Amen! :beer:

[sam]

thanks guys :)