Mr.Marauder is sick

[Mr.MRder]

Not sure what's going on with "Mr.Marauder", but he's sick.

When I am stopping at a red light the RPM's drop and the engine shuts off, I have to re-start it and press the gas pedal to keep it running.

Took it to advance auto and have them ran an electrical check, alternator and battery are good (battery is practically brand new, it's 6-7 month old). I have always use premium gas since I bought it.

Not sure if this is related to the above issue, but when I am driving uphill on the interstate and as I slowly accelerate, the engine or the transmission seem to stutter and loses a bit of power until it changes to the next gear. It tends to do this at about 30-50mph, with or without O/D engaged.

Any idea where I should look at before I take it to the mech?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[RF Overlord]

Your first issue is a bad IAC.

The transmission issue sounds like the infamous torque converter clutch shudder. When was the last time the ATF was changed?

[justbob]

Both of your issues sound like a torque converter on the way out or a bad TPS switch which controls the torque converter and obviously the idle functions as well.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

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"Since 2004"

[Mr.MRder]

Hmm, sounds like "he's" really sick then. The IAC is behind the throttle body, correct?

As for the torque converter, do you have a pic or a simpler description of what the problem may be? I am afraid it's beyond my comprehension right now. Sounds like dropping the trans or something along those lines, ie., expensive to repair.

[Mr.MRder]

I don't know when was the last time the trans oil was replaced. But the oil looks and smells like detergent, I guess it's ok?

[EMAS]

It does sound like the IAC, or Idle Air Control Valve is bad.

That speed is the range where torque converter shudder is likely to occur but it doesn't cause a feeling of a loss of power, it typically feels like you are running over rumble strips or a cattle guard. The way to see if that is the problem drive with your left foot over the brake pedal and as soon as it acts up lightly apply the brakes. If the brakes are applied the computer stops commanding the torque converter lock up and the shudder will stop. If lightly applying the brakes does not stop it from acting up then it is not TC shudder.

I just went through the TC shudder with my DD Grand Marquis. On it the shudder was very severe and came on immediately. Today I changed the fluid and the shudder stopped completely. Of course my GM is older and has a drain plug in the torque converter so I was able to change all of the fluid and not just what was in the pan.

If you take it somewhere to change the trans fluid I'd only suggest a Ford dealer to be certain that they use Mercon V and not universal fluid or universal fluid with a bottle of fluid "converter" additive.

If you are going to do it yourself I'd put a drain plug in the pan when you drop it and change the filter. Then after driving it for a few days or a week drain with the plug, refill, drive and repeat again.

[Mr.MRder]

Thanks Emas. I'll try that trick tomorrow and report back.

[Pat]

John;

Did you get those open connections pointed out by CBT fixed? You may have other disconnected/misconnected vacumn lines.

Is there a Marauder owner nearby that you can compare with, I wonder?

[Granddaddy Marq]

Where in Alabama are you? I have an IAC in my extra parts pile.

[martyo]

Where in Alabama are you?

[martyo]

Where in Alabama are you? I have an IAC in my extra parts pile.


Where in Alabama are you?

Jinx.


.......

[whitey]

COP's, i bet thats your shudder your feeling. Could also be the reason it stalls.

[Mr.MRder]

Thanks everybody for your help. In a few moments I am fixing to go out and do the trick Emas suggested.

GrandaddyMarc and Martyo, I am located in St. Clair county, 30 mins north of Birmingham.

Grandaddymarc, do you live in Guntersville? My wife and I spent our honeymoon there at Bed and Breakfast, I think it's the only one there. It's an hour and a half from us.

Will report back in a little while, I have to re-fuel so I'll do those things while I drive it.

Thanks everybody for your kindness!

[RF Overlord]

I don't know when was the last time the trans oil was replaced. But the oil looks and smells like detergent, I guess it's ok?Unless you are intimately familiar with what Mercon V looks and smells like, those are poor ways to determine ATF quality. Also, the additive pack can become depleted with no other obvious change.

If you aren't sure that it's ever been changed, it would be good preventative maintenance to change it now. Do as EMAS suggested above and your transmission will thank you.

ATF should be changed every 30,000 miles...more often if you are a hard driver.

There is NO SUCH THING as a "lifetime fill".

[EMAS]

There is NO SUCH THING as a "lifetime fill".


Sure there is, it will just be a shorter "lifetime".

[Mr.MRder]

Update. Took the car for a test drive and had to first warm it up the before the symptoms would occur, it doesn't do it if the engine and trans are cold.

It did it a few times after the warming up process, and every time it did I lightly tapped the brakes as suggested, but I am not sure if it stopped the shuddering. In other words, when I tapped the brakes it seemed as it did not stop the stuttering but it continued for a half a sec before the trans shifted to third gear. Tried it twice but did not noticed a difference.

Need to repeat the test drive to make sure, but I am leaning towards believing that applying the brakes did not stop the TC from shuddering.

The car kept shutting down on me anytime I came to a stop. It's fine on the hwy otherwise.

RFoverlord, I think I may have to do that. I put some "stinky juice" as recommended in another post and will report back, if the stinky juice "fixes it" then I will know. But I need to do a trans service anyways, unsure when was the last time it was done on the car.

Will report back when I get news.

[justbob]

When TPS switches go bad they do numerous things. One of which is overheat and keep the converter locked all the way to a stop which in turn kills the engine. Very common on mod motors. You should just take it to Ford and have them check it while its doing it before you cause damage. Or at very least, since your probably over due anyhow, get a trans service first, then go from there.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

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"Since 2004"

[Mr.MRder]

Took it for a second drive, 30 miles round trip. I can confirm now that applying brakes when the trans stutters did not stop it. Also put some stinking juice and that didn't help either. Cleaned the mass air flow sensor as well, did not improve much.

Will take it to a friend of mine and have the trans checked.

Thanks everybody! Will report back when I get more news.

[whitey]

ill say it again:) COP's. my car was acting up like that around 40mph, loss of power, felt like tranny was crapping out, until i pressed the gas down enough for it to down shift, than it was fine. Check engine light never came on, and car never threw any codes, i believe for the car to throw a code for the COP's, it has to accelerate slowly and evenly up to 90 mph or something stupid like that....very hard to do driving on the street. i changed tranny fluid, spark plugs, etc and was boggled, along with numerous other people on here, until MuscleMerc(god love him) told me it was the COP's. hot damned if it wasn't!. a lot of people, including me, confuse the feeling of tranny shudder with a bad COP. FYI: dont get granetelli COP's, too many people say they are junk. after this is all said and done, you can buy me a beer:)

btw, my car never stalled, but if a couple COP's are acting up, it could be the issue.

How many miles are on your car?

[EMAS]

If lightly applying the brakes did not stop the issue then it has nothing to do with the trans.

Coils, plug wires or plugs are then certainly a likely possibility as to the cause of the issue you are having at speed.

If it dies when you stop and you have to keep your foot on the throttle to keep it running then it is almost certainly the IAC.

If is was a torque converter that wasn't unlocking then when you restarted it you wouldn't need to keep your foot on the throttle to keep it running.

The TPS has nothing to do with the torque converter lock up. That is based on the trans being in 3rd or OD, the road speed and whether or not the computer is receiving a signal that indicates the brakes are applied.

[Mr.MRder]

Whitey, you may be onto something here, I'll check that out, thanks for the tip!

Emas, glad to know it's not the trans!! I'll go ahead and buy a new IAC and let you all know.

Advance Auto are wanting $99+ for a generic IAC, they have them online for about $40, and also saw it on ebay for $38, w/free shipping. May try O'reilly and check their prices.

Those of you that live closer to me, do you one for sale? I would pick it up today if you do.

Thanks again! Very helpful bunch of people you have here! Will report back once I start replacing parts.

[Granddaddy Marq]

I have 2 or 3 IAC I'll give you 1 if you think it will help. They are used.

[whitey]

hope it helps;)

rockauto.com, not sure on price but you can use discount code

1753043014880883

enter it in the "how did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart.

good for 5% off. just got this in an e-mail today.

[Mr.MRder]

Thanks for the link whitey!

Grandaddymarc, thanks for the generous offer! I would rather buy a new one, but do you know how old, or how many miles yours have?

[justbob]

If lightly applying the brakes did not stop the issue then it has nothing to do with the trans.

Coils, plug wires or plugs are then certainly a likely possibility as to the cause of the issue you are having at speed.

If it dies when you stop and you have to keep your foot on the throttle to keep it running then it is almost certainly the IAC.

If is was a torque converter that wasn't unlocking then when you restarted it you wouldn't need to keep your foot on the throttle to keep it running.

The TPS has nothing to do with the torque converter lock up. That is based on the trans being in 3rd or OD, the road speed and whether or not the computer is receiving a signal that indicates the brakes are applied.

Wrong. One of the jobs the TPS signal is used for is controlling TCC control. I replaced one just two weeks ago with every symptom the OP has without fail.

Now, I never did say "this is your problem so go buy it" as others here have done. I suggested to go have it looked at before any other damage may be done. We all know there is many possibilities and this poor cat would break the bank if he just went and through parts at it..

COPS. Reasonable Guess, but doubt it would stall.

EGR. Changed many that caused stalling and bucking.

TCC. We all know that solenoid is a crap shoot for mileage.

There is plenty of others and I haven't even mentioned all the variables to consider if this were two separate issues. Either way some good guesses here from many, but I replace by testing, not guessing, and certainly not by advice found online.




Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[whitey]

i agree justbob, i doubt the cop's are causing the stall. i personally think its 2 different issues, that have been brought up/noticed at one time. mr. mrder, how many miles are on your marauder?

[Mr.MRder]

131k+ mi, if I remember well.

[boatmangc]

Just throw parts at it, you're bound to hit it eventually.
Or you could go plug it in and just find the problem.

With a good OBD diagnostic tool the IAC can be functionally tested. The TPS can be checked as well.

There are way too many options on what it could be to just guess.

Pep Boys will probably troubleshoot it and then sell you the parts if you prefer to change them yourself.

[whitey]

Cops usually crap out around 100k, do a diagnostics on the iac, tps, etc. Just so were on topic here, the shudder might be the cops, the stalling is probably a different issue.

[Mr.MRder]

Didn't have a way to test the IAC myself, so I removed it and cleaned it up, I figured that for testings purposes it would give me an idea, not sure though.

But anyways, the IAC was very dirty, clogged with carbon, but cleaned it up very well. Then took the car for a short drive and it seems to be idling better, however I will know for sure tomorrow as I may have to drive it a long distance.

Now, I have a very ignorant question, but where are those coil packs located in this car? And what about the spark plugs? I've look around and can't find them! It must be something obvious, but I can't see them. Any tips on removing the spark plugs? I've read somewhere they are prone to break during removal. :confused: Should I warm up the engine and then try to remove the spark plugs?

Well, I figured I may do maintenance even if the coil packs are good, it's time for some service anyway.

Thanks everybody, I'll keep you informed.

[whitey]

On the valve covers are coil covers, 2 bolts, and you can remove them. There purpose is to keep water out of the spark plug ports. Autolite Ap 104 or ngk stock replacements.

[justbob]

Replace plugs only when engine is COLD. Then make sure to torque them to 8 ft-lb. the long boots on the coil packs are prone to cracking and are replaceable as well.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[fastblackmerc]

Replace plugs only when engine is COLD. Then make sure to torque them to 8 ft-lb. the long boots on the coil packs are prone to cracking and are replaceable as well.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
Also:

Remove any debris in the plug wells BEFORE removing the plugs.

Apply small amount of anti seize to the plug threads.

Apply small amount of dielectric grease to the COP boots (spark plug end).

Apply a dab of silicone sealer to the rear of the COP cover (where the harness comes through) to prevent any water from entering.

[RF Overlord]

Replace plugs only when engine is COLD.^^^what Bob said^^^

This is critical. These motors have aluminium heads...they are not your father's Oldsmobile.
Then make sure to torque them to 8 ft-lb. Factory service manual says 11 ft/lbs, but it you use anti-seize, then 8 is close enough.

[Mr.MRder]

Thanks for the help everyone!

Justbob and overlord, so I'll torque between 8 ft/lbs, or 11 ft/lbs.

Are these COP's any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ignition-Coil-Set-of-8-Ford-Multispark-Blaster-Epoxy-Coil-Pack-DG512-/281130473496?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMercury%7CModel%3A Marauder&hash=item4174ae9818&vxp=mtr#ht_2374wt_940

Any recommendations on a good but relatively economical set of coil packs would be appreciated.

The good news is that after cleaning the IAC with throttle body spray, the stalling is gone, and the car has been idling as it ought to.

The stuttering is still there but I will be ordering those parts and service it.

My brother in law told me he had the exact same problem I am having in his 04 F150 truck, he replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and it was day and night difference.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Thanks for the help everyone!

Justbob and overlord, so I'll torque between 8 ft/lbs, or 11 ft/lbs.

Are these COP's any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ignition-Coil-Set-of-8-Ford-Multispark-Blaster-Epoxy-Coil-Pack-DG512-/281130473496?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMercury%7CModel%3A Marauder&hash=item4174ae9818&vxp=mtr#ht_2374wt_940

Any recommendations on a good but relatively economical set of coil packs would be appreciated.

The good news is that after cleaning the IAC with throttle body spray, the stalling is gone, and the car has been idling as it ought to.

The stuttering is still there but I will be ordering those parts and service it.

My brother in law told me he had the exact same problem I am having in his 04 F150 truck, he replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and it was day and night difference.

You want to put a very thin coat of antisieze on plug threads and torque to 8/9 ft/lbs. 11/12 is dry torque, you don't want to torque that high with antisieze on plugs. It will weaken head threads and you'll be very sorry in the future!

Only use Motorcraft COPs. All the aftermarket ones are junk and fail prematurely.

[Mr.MRder]

Got it, will torque the plugs as suggested as I have anti-seize paste. Thanks a bunch myblackbeasts!!

Sorry for so many questions, but will any Crown vic COP's work with this engine? If not, would the Mustang Mach1 cops work?

I'm getting generic brands when I look up the model and no OEM's are showing up for the Marauder. Poor thing.

Thanks again!

[whitey]

Mach 1 should work, crown vics will not

[justbob]

Look up 03/04 Cobra also. Same stuffs.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Mr.MRder]

Thanks folks! Will do and report back when I have them all installed.

[Mr.MRder]

Finally found Motorcraft COPs! Unfortunately I will have to pass for now and maybe get them in the future but I got them saved in my favorites.

For now I need some "good enough" quality coil pack instead.

For those of you who may stumble on this thread who are looking everywhere but can't find the exact Motorcraft COP part you need, the part numer for the Motorcraft is DG-543 and they are selling on ebay for $43ea (you may get them cheaper if you buy a pack though).

For now I'm leaning towards the ACCEL Super Coils 140034-8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-140034-8/overview/year/2003/make/mercury/model/marauder

Or

Granatelli Motor Sports Street Fighter Coil Packs 21-4001-SF
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grn-21-4001-sf/overview/year/2003/make/mercury/model/marauder

The Granatelli Street Fighter(??) are only $10 higher, but I'm unsure which one is better, don't have experience with either so they may be so-so or they may turn out to be excellent.

If you had to choose between those two models, which one would you buy?

[RF Overlord]

This is hearsay because I have no direct experience with either one, but I've heard more complaints about the Granatelli coils.

I've heard good things about MSD...they may also be an option for you.

[boatmangc]

Feeding something parts to try and fix a problem is usually not the most cost effective way to go about it.
Troubleshooting is your friend.

[fastblackmerc]

Finally found Motorcraft COPs! Unfortunately I will have to pass for now and maybe get them in the future but I got them saved in my favorites.

For now I need some "good enough" quality coil pack instead.

For those of you who may stumble on this thread who are looking everywhere but can't find the exact Motorcraft COP part you need, the part numer for the Motorcraft is DG-543 and they are selling on ebay for $43ea (you may get them cheaper if you buy a pack though).

For now I'm leaning towards the ACCEL Super Coils 140034-8
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-140034-8/overview/year/2003/make/mercury/model/marauder

Or

Granatelli Motor Sports Street Fighter Coil Packs 21-4001-SF
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grn-21-4001-sf/overview/year/2003/make/mercury/model/marauder

The Granatelli Street Fighter(??) are only $10 higher, but I'm unsure which one is better, don't have experience with either so they may be so-so or they may turn out to be excellent.

If you had to choose between those two models, which one would you buy?
I'd buy the Motorcraft Ford ones.

[whitey]

Heres an option, just buy 1 or 2 of the motorcraft coils and literally replace 1 or 2 at a time, test drive it, if its still bad, remove the new ones, replace the old ones, move on to the next 1or 2.....test drive, etc.

[Mr.MRder]

boatman, I agree with you, unfortunately I don't have a way to test these parts (altought I am open to ideas how to do this, never done it before), other than paying a mechanic and then the overal cost kind of balances out.

whitey, so if I understood right, you are saying to basically swap a few coils at a time to see which ones are the bad units?

[whitey]

Yep, usually it is 1 coil that goes bad. You could just swap out that coil.....but keep in mind that at that mileage, you could have 2 bad ones, or another one could fail next week. So im suggesting, just to get by until you save the cash up to buy all of them. Motorcraft only...it sucks, they're pricey, but the other brands are just too much of a crap shoot to take a chance on it.

[Mr.MRder]

Sounds good whitey. I may try get one or two and test which ones are bad.