View Full Version : Air Suspension Line Repair
ledzilla
09-30-2013, 03:09 PM
I'm going to be repairing the air line for my rear suspension, but I was hoping to get some advice before starting. Or rather, I tried once already and it leaked like a sieve and I could use some additional guidance so I don't waste any more line or connectors...
1) I'm using some nice quick-connect union connectors that I purchased from Suncore. When inserting the air line into the connector, what should I be paying attention to to make sure that the air line is seated within the connector properly so it doesn't leak?
2) Considering the air line on my MM is at least 11 years old, I know the plastic of the line isn't as flexible or supple as it once was. Is there anything I should keep in mind to ensure it seats in the connector properly? Should I use something to help seal it in? I thought I heard someone mention use of WD-40, but I'm not really sure how it would work in this application.
fordmike65
09-30-2013, 03:13 PM
Where exactly are you attempting to repair the line? Out of the compressor dryer? At a solenoid? Making an inline repair at a break?
fastblackmerc
09-30-2013, 03:48 PM
I don't think I'd use WD40.
Make sure all the cut you make are square.
fordmike65
09-30-2013, 04:00 PM
If you're trying to make an inline repair, cut white line perfectly square as stated above and carefully trim back black plastic sheath. Then I'd use an updated air line union from an Expedition.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/xx183/fordmike65/Airlineunion_zps2b0f927f.jpg
ledzilla
09-30-2013, 04:44 PM
I'm repairing the section of line that runs above the transmission cross member. When my brother-in-law and I had to use a torch to cut off the bolts holding the cross member
to the chassis back in June, we apparently melted the air line.
When I made the cuts the first time I tried the repair, I did my best to make them square across the end. I'm not sure why, but the side of the line coming from the air compressor
leaked like crazy after connecting a union. That side is tough to work with as it leads upwards into the engine compartment.
I suspect perhaps, when I used tin snips to remove the damaged section of lines, the line may have been a bit, distorted, where I tried to square off the end. I'll be trimming the line on
each end a little further, supposing I still have enough replacement air line, so maybe it'll snug up better.
I already have the extra connectors I need from Suncore, so I won't be buying any others, unless I screw things up even further than I already have. When I first attached the
lines to the connectors, I pushed them in until there was a little "pop" as they snugged into place. Should I not have pushed them in that far? Because even though they're
quick-connect, I can't get the lines back out of the existing connectors.
Here's the melted section of line...
http://www.ledzilla.us/images/Marauder/20130916_182924.jpg
whitey
09-30-2013, 04:46 PM
Dont use wd40, use silicone lubricant/grease if need be. wd40 will eventually destroy rubber anything.
ledzilla
10-01-2013, 06:49 AM
I wasn't planning to use any WD-40. I just wasn't sure for what reason it was recommended to use.
ledzilla
10-06-2013, 04:32 PM
Well... After attempting the use of some silicone RTV to seal up the connections on the line and failing (the air blew through the sealant), I checked the leaks again and the connectors themselves are leaking, and not from where the lines are inserted. You know how the compressor has that quick-connect fitting where the line is inserted? Yeah, it's leaking where the fitting is attached to the connector.
fordmike65
10-06-2013, 05:11 PM
Its leaking at the dryer? Fittings not serviceable. There's no way silicone will seal an air line. Youll have to replace the dryer assembly. If your still trying to repair that air line, I highly recommend the Expedition fitting I referred to above.
ledzilla
10-06-2013, 05:54 PM
No, there's nothing wrong with the compressor or dryer. I was using the connector as an example. I am, however, interested in these Expedition connectors. But I'll need a bit more to go on before trying to procure any. Like, what year range of Expedition, or part number of the connector.
lifespeed
10-08-2013, 12:11 AM
How hard would it be to replace the entire line, drier to solenoid?
fordmike65
10-08-2013, 05:21 AM
Its a stock updated part for a 97-02 Expedition with rear air suspension. Called an air line union, located on the air line under the brake master cylinder. I'll get you a part # when I get to work today.
ledzilla
10-08-2013, 12:22 PM
How hard would it be to replace the entire line, drier to solenoid?
This is something I am seriously considering right now. It doesn't seem like it would be excessively difficult, though. Just a pain in the rear to get the line run where it's supposed to be situated in some spots, or so I'd imagine.
Its a stock updated part for a 97-02 Expedition with rear air suspension. Called an air line union, located on the air line under the brake master cylinder. I'll get you a part # when I get to work today.
I'd really appreciate it. If these don't work, I'm just going to replace the entire line, front to back.
lifespeed
10-08-2013, 12:50 PM
This is something I am seriously considering right now. It doesn't seem like it would be excessively difficult, though. Just a pain in the rear to get the line run where it's supposed to be situated in some spots, or so I'd imagine.
I would replace the whole line. The stuff is cheap, and I'm not the one laying on my back doing it ;)
Seriously, just put a new line in. Use electrical tape to secure the new line to the old to pull it through. Obviously if there are clamps you'll have to remove them to do this. Use alcohol (not acetone!) to remove the tape schmutz.
You'll feel good about doing it right, and the Marauder will reward you with reliable operation.
fordmike65
10-08-2013, 03:25 PM
I've done several repairs here at the dealer using these unions. Never had a issue.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/xx183/fordmike65/IMAG1256_zps97467d7d.jpg (http://s754.photobucket.com/user/fordmike65/media/IMAG1256_zps97467d7d.jpg.html)
MyBlackBeasts
10-08-2013, 09:36 PM
Its a stock updated part for a 97-02 Expedition with rear air suspension. Called an air line union, located on the air line under the brake master cylinder. I'll get you a part # when I get to work today.
The unions are a standard repair part.
Available from NAPA.
Ask for one for the line diameter you need or take a line sample in to match up.
Also available from anyone selling semi-truck repair supplies. Use by the dozens weekly working on trucks.
ledzilla
10-09-2013, 11:06 AM
I've done several repairs here at the dealer using these unions. Never had a issue.
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/xx183/fordmike65/IMAG1256_zps97467d7d.jpg (http://s754.photobucket.com/user/fordmike65/media/IMAG1256_zps97467d7d.jpg.html)
I'll look into these. I'd like to take advantage of the replacement line I've already purchased and cuts in the existing line I've already made.
The unions are a standard repair part.
Available from NAPA.
Ask for one for the line diameter you need or take a line sample in to match up.
Also available from anyone selling semi-truck repair supplies. Use by the dozens weekly working on trucks.
I actually went to my local NAPA and they had the unions and line in their books, but they didn't have stock of any of it. They didn't seem to find any at any nearby alternate locations, either. I was kind of disappointed.
So I guess my plan will be to return the connectors I purchased from Suncore since they leak (quite surprised about it, actually) and get new ones from a Ford parts supplier (possibly the local dealer, there's one a couple minutes down the street). If that fails, then I'll do the entire line. Since I know where my current patch is, I can actually swap out union connectors on the patch without lifting the car.
massacre
10-09-2013, 11:20 AM
I repair air lines all day long, when the line is properly seated in the repair connector, you should be able to pull on it and the line should not come out of the connector.
if a line pulls out, it is not seated properly. As was stated, make all cuts as straight as possible. We use DOT approved repair conectors, they are supplied to us by Lawson in a variety of sizes.
fastblackmerc
10-09-2013, 12:58 PM
I'll look into these. I'd like to take advantage of the replacement line I've already purchased and cuts in the existing line I've already made.
I actually went to my local NAPA and they had the unions and line in their books, but they didn't have stock of any of it. They didn't seem to find any at any nearby alternate locations, either. I was kind of disappointed.
So I guess my plan will be to return the connectors I purchased from Suncore since they leak (quite surprised about it, actually) and get new ones from a Ford parts supplier (possibly the local dealer, there's one a couple minutes down the street). If that fails, then I'll do the entire line. Since I know where my current patch is, I can actually swap out union connectors on the patch without lifting the car.
NAPA can order the parts and have them the next day.
MyBlackBeasts
10-09-2013, 10:43 PM
I'll look into these. I'd like to take advantage of the replacement line I've already purchased and cuts in the existing line I've already made.
I actually went to my local NAPA and they had the unions and line in their books, but they didn't have stock of any of it. They didn't seem to find any at any nearby alternate locations, either. I was kind of disappointed.
Gotta truckstop close by? A truck repair shop or dealership?
Go to the parts counter and buy them by the fist-ful.
Know any truck mechanics? They'll have a dozen in their tool box. Ask for one.
If you can get in touch with a Lawson or Curtis salesman, buy what you need.
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