Few upgrades

[Blk04MM]

While I have the free funds. Thinking about adding a few mods to the car such as Headers, 3500 stall & steeda UDP.

Currently sits with 168k, 4.10s, CAI and Z tune.

How much more of a difference will I get with those mods? RWHP/RWT gains? Is it worth it? Will they Improve the car noticeably?

[ctrlraven]

With headers you'll need to have a re-tune to really benefit from them so that adds more $$$. I would not recommend a 3500 stall, I have one it's quite the headache sometimes with DD'ing the car. 2800-3000 is a good range, the 3500 would be more so if you plan on tracking the car a lot and you'll need a re-tune for the converter.

Add up the part cost and labor for each thing and see if it's worth the net gains. Just for the headers only ($800-900), labor ($500-700) and dyno tune ($350-500) you are close to half the price of an Eaton swap kit.

I would look more at doing some suspension stuff, front/rear addco sway bars, rear control arms, watts link these three things will have quite the noticeable difference in how the car handles and reacts on the road. Doing the J-mod is another good cheap mod. All three of the suspension mods cost about the same as a set of headers.

[fastblackmerc]

With headers you'll need to have a re-tune to really benefit from them so that adds more $$$. I would not recommend a 3500 stall, I have one it's quite the headache sometimes with DD'ing the car. 2800-3000 is a good range, the 3500 would be more so if you plan on tracking the car a lot and you'll need a re-tune for the converter.

Add up the part cost and labor for each thing and see if it's worth the net gains. Just for the headers only ($800-900), labor ($500-700) and dyno tune ($350-500) you are close to half the price of an Eaton swap kit.

I would look more at doing some suspension stuff, front/rear addco sway bars, rear control arms, watts link these three things will have quite the noticeable difference in how the car handles and reacts on the road. Doing the J-mod is another good cheap mod. All three of the suspension mods cost about the same as a set of headers.

Good advice.....

I have a PI 3500 stall and a Martyo tune and mines is a DD.

Definitely do the suspension upgrades. Adding a Metco drive shaft hoop is cheap insurance.

+1 on the J-Mod. :banana2:

[Blk04MM]

With headers you'll need to have a re-tune to really benefit from them so that adds more $$$. I would not recommend a 3500 stall, I have one it's quite the headache sometimes with DD'ing the car. 2800-3000 is a good range, the 3500 would be more so if you plan on tracking the car a lot and you'll need a re-tune for the converter.

Add up the part cost and labor for each thing and see if it's worth the net gains. Just for the headers only ($800-900), labor ($500-700) and dyno tune ($350-500) you are close to half the price of an Eaton swap kit.

I would look more at doing some suspension stuff, front/rear addco sway bars, rear control arms, watts link these three things will have quite the noticeable difference in how the car handles and reacts on the road. Doing the J-mod is another good cheap mod. All three of the suspension mods cost about the same as a set of headers.

Lucky me no labor cost. My buddy has a full service shop.
I've contacted Z about the stall he told me I wouldn't need a retune.
I think at these miles if I eaton swap I'm asking for a pop. Plus I'm not looking to spend 3k right now. I know there aren't much net gains in these motors unless it's SCd. Just thought about other things to make it a bit better if I could find the parts for a reasonable price. Headers I know would be new. I don't really care to change suspension. It's not a race car at all. JMod has already been done


Good advice.....

I have a PI 3500 stall and a Martyo tune and mines is a DD.

Definitely do the suspension upgrades. Adding a Metco drive shaft hoop is cheap insurance.

+1 on the J-Mod. :banana2:

Car isn't driven that high rate of speed often for a DSL IMO. I've switched out my DS for an MMC though.

[ajdereicup]

When I bought my car the guy said it was at 345rwhp. I just had it dynoed on a mustang dyno with some people that had no idea what they were doing and quite possibly my car acting up but the best it did out of 5 runs was 397 rwhp (5 runs because they were having issues or something the rest of the runs were in the 200s which is just insane because that's what this car is around stock) and that was with the addition of long tubes, removing all cats and making the rest of the exhaust 2.5inch and a ported and polished 75mm TB instead of the stock smaller one.

But that's just a rough idea seeing as who knows if those numbers are on point (I'd believe them more then the 200s the dyno was kicking out based off of what the car was at when I bought it) and the fact that this car is boosted so the headers and TB would help me more then a N/A car such as yours. That's with no new tuning for the headers yet either

[na svt]

A tune isn't needed with the headers. I ran the Zack trans tune with my circle D 3200 (perfect IMO) and it worked great. Paying $300-$500 for an n/a tune is ridiculous IMO, see if you can get one from Zack.

Why is it everyone suggests a damn eaton swap to those asking about n/a mods?

[lifespeed]

Personally I find stall converters kind of obnoxious, even if they do help slightly in a drag race. Up to you on that one.

But, at 168K if you have not completely rebuilt your suspension, replaced your shocks and rear control arms you should absolutely do so. It will drive and handle better than new.

Don't knock it unless you've tried it!!

Edit: Consider Addco sway bars and replace the floater pins in the brake calipers. You will be surprised.

[MOTOWN]

Personally I find stall converters kind of obnoxious, even if they do help slightly in a drag race. Up to you on that one.

But, at 168K if you have not completely rebuilt your suspension, replaced your shocks and rear control arms you should absolutely do so. It will drive and handle better than new.

Don't knock it unless you've tried it!!

Edit: Consider Addco sway bars and replace the floater pins in the brake calipers. You will be surprised.

Agreed on the high stall converters! i have used a 3500, a 3200, and a 3000, anything over 3k on a street car is going to be very frustrating and no fun.

[Mebot]

What does replacing the floater pins yield? This is the first I've heard of that

sent from a Samsung Galaxy far far away...

[slickster]

Personally I find stall converters kind of obnoxious, even if they do help slightly in a drag race. Up to you on that one.

But, at 168K if you have not completely rebuilt your suspension, replaced your shocks and rear control arms you should absolutely do so. It will drive and handle better than new.

Don't knock it unless you've tried it!!

Edit: Consider Addco sway bars and replace the floater pins in the brake calipers. You will be surprised.

Yep!!! Not much else to do after the tune and gears! The best thing that could happen is the motor going out then doing a 03 cobra motor swap then getting a s/c!! I say save up and do something small and cheap just to take that bordness away