View Full Version : Pinion Seal
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 07:38 AM
The pinion seal is leaking pretty bad on TagAlong's car. I was going to replace it today. As long as I mark everything and tighten and loctite the pinion nut back down where it was Im good to go correct? All the research I have done says to check preload and blah blah blah. Its already been preloaded/crushed so as long as I dont crush it anymore it should be just as it was before I removed it..................
Discuss, thanks fellas! :)
Curless
10-21-2013, 07:41 AM
I assume you are using an impact on the pinion nut correct? If so, yes you can do it this way...once it starts to hammer and not move call it good. By the way, you will need a good impact gun with ample power to tighten it up!
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 07:47 AM
I assume you are using an impact on the pinion nut correct? If so, yes you can do it this way...once it starts to hammer and not move call it good. By the way, you will need a good impact gun with ample power to tighten it up!
I was going to use a breakover bar. I would be doing this with the wheels on the car and on the ground (4 post lift ramps) so I have something to tighten against. The only time I would need to maybe lift the car up is to remove and re-install the driveshaft.
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 07:56 AM
I have air if you think thats a better way. I just dont want to overtighten it.
Curless
10-21-2013, 08:10 AM
I would not use a breaker bar...you wont get it tight enough. You can feel it with the gun when it starts to over tighten the nut
Vortech347
10-21-2013, 08:59 AM
Make sure you add some RTV to the surface area of the nut. Its a common area to leak as well.
I've done this several times. I've found using a torque wrench to 80ft-lbs and some lock-tite always does the trick just fine.
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 10:35 AM
What color locktite
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 11:19 AM
Chris I am running up to work to borrow one of my techs impact guns. I am also going to mark and measure the threads and pinion nut
Curless
10-21-2013, 11:26 AM
Chris I am running up to work to borrow one of my techs impact guns. I am also going to mark and measure the threads and pinion nut
Perfect, that will work!
Logizyme
10-21-2013, 11:34 AM
mark the nut location on the pinon, then re-tighten the nut to the mark on the pinon.
one rotation of the nut, either too loose or too tight will be WAY to loose or WAY to tight, theres no need to count the threads, just let the impact gun do most the work, as the gun starts to slow down take it off and look at the mark, put it back on untill it gets right on the mark.
I've never bothered with putting on new locktite, never heard of putting silicone around the nut either...
fordmike65
10-21-2013, 11:57 AM
mark the nut location on the pinon, then re-tighten the nut to the mark on the pinon.
one rotation of the nut, either too loose or too tight will be WAY to loose or WAY to tight, theres no need to count the threads, just let the impact gun do most the work, as the gun starts to slow down take it off and look at the mark, put it back on untill it gets right on the mark.
I've never bothered with putting on new locktite, never heard of putting silicone around the nut either...
I'd use a new nut. I too have seen several weep fluid past the threads.
Vortech347
10-21-2013, 02:03 PM
Yup, the nut has a sealer on it. Gets worn off when its used. That is why a little RTV on it will keep it from leaking. You don't need a new nut if you do it this way. Just make sure you use brake cleaner and a towel. Make sure its all clean and oil free when putting the nut on.
I use red lock tite. Marking the nut and pinion work well too.
Use an impact just to take it off. Don't use it to re-install. Its not needed in either case of lining up the marks or torquing it.
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 02:11 PM
Im back together. Kinda. I am slightly past my mark. My mark was at 6 oclock. The mark on the nut is 7 or 730. Run it or try and tighten it more? Threads sticking out look about where I marked them.
Vortech347
10-21-2013, 02:20 PM
Im back together. Kinda. I am slightly past my mark. My mark was at 6 oclock. The mark on the nut is 7 or 730. Run it or try and tighten it more? Threads sticking out look about where I marked them.
For some reason I always ran into an issue using the "line" method. The nuts would go back on WAY to loose.
I've learned it takes about 110-125ft-lbs to crush the sleeve. So I just torque them at 80 and have never had a problem. Done it well over a dozen times. Did it in my Marauder actually when the seal leaked about 50k ago. So far so good.
Marauderjack
10-21-2013, 02:44 PM
Try not to overtighten it.....the bearing will suffer QUICKLY....don't ask how I know!!:(
lifespeed
10-21-2013, 02:53 PM
Hope it works out. Is the rear high-mileage? A leaking pinion seal can be a symptom of other issues.
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 03:02 PM
I did torque it to 80 ft lbs
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 03:06 PM
I did torque it to 80 ft lbs
Before and after
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 06:06 PM
Hope it works out. Is the rear high-mileage? A leaking pinion seal can be a symptom of other issues.
Yes, it has 177,000 miles it has earned the right to leak IMO. No noise, no other issues. Just picked up the car getting it road ready for the wifey. :)
Got it figured out guys. My lead tech from work stopped by and checked my work said I did it just fine. I did lure him over with beers. :beer:
marauder410
10-21-2013, 06:22 PM
I am having the same issue and work at meinike and have nice impact gun with air and all tools needed
can you post a link to were I can get this pinion seal...I don't wanna get the wrong thing...PART # be better
also do you need a new crush collar???
can some1 please list tools needed..new parts recommended since its apart like new seal, nut, crush collar etc... PLEASEEE
also if someone could pleaseee do a step by step intructions on how to do this repair and any tips on doing so...so I can print it out and look at It..to make it easy as possible...
also car will be on a lift...that will make it a lot easier
I REALLY NEED TO DO THIS ASAP BEFORE I CASUE MY REAREND GOES BOOM...so if some1 could pleaseee do this it will be awesome
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 06:45 PM
Buy the seal from Ford. No need for a sleeve since your not getting inside the rear end (ignore this comment Jerry) . I changed the fluid because the car is new too ud and I am glad I did it was nasty
lifespeed
10-21-2013, 06:54 PM
Yes, it has 177,000 miles it has earned the right to leak IMO. No noise, no other issues . . .
These rearends are pretty worn out with that many miles. The pinion seal leak is a symptom, IMHO. I know it's not what you want to hear.
The rumbling noise from worn axles/bearings is not that pronounced, but you'll pick up on it if you're good at noticing these things. Or 90 weight on the rear wheels will remove all doubt.
8UWITH6
10-21-2013, 09:27 PM
Thanks for your positive outlook.
Vortech347
10-22-2013, 08:58 AM
Seals are rubber on metal. They wear out. Or if any debris gets in there it will toast em quickly.
IMHO if a Ford 8.8 rear end is setup correctly doesn't get contamination, and fluid changed on schedule it will go well into the 200k's. I can't say that for the clutch packs though It'll start one tire frying after about 50k.
lifespeed
10-22-2013, 09:46 AM
Thanks for your positive outlook.
LOL, my outlook has no bearing on the useful service life of the 8.8 Ford.
8UWITH6
10-22-2013, 05:48 PM
If it matters drove it 20 miles on the highway today nice and quiet. So Ill run it.......... thats all you can do until it breaks.
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