UD pulley confusion

[wickedmerc]

I had Steeda underdrive pulley installed when I had engine work done. I believe it was only 1 pulley, the crank pulley. Since then, my voltmeter reads low: in gear, at idle. I've heard of this before (I did do a thread search but cannot find solution to my problem). I used my SCT tuner to increase idle RPM to over 700, but voltmeter still reads low.

This all came to a head today when I got stuck in a snow storm. Wipers, headlights, defrost/blower and rear defrost desperately needed. Voltmeter dropped under 10 when not moving. All accessories struggling and I was concerned car would shut off. Dropping it in and out of neutral, revving to get volts up....it was very unsettling.

My question: Did I miss something? Was there another pulley supposed to be installed with crank pulley to make this function "better"? I've heard from other owners who have U/D pulley upgrade that they do not experience anything like this. I cannot drive the car like this and I need to resolve this now. If I have to swap back to stock pulley, at this point, I'd really consider it.

Any words of wisdom appreciated.

[Comin' in Hot]

that volt meter is a dummy gauge too. use a multimeter on the battery to read alternator output

[jimbok1951]

Knew the oil pressure was a dummy, thought volt meter was real, learn something every day.

Thanks

[Mr. Man]

that volt meter is a dummy gauge too. use a multimeter on the battery to read alternator output


Knew the oil pressure was a dummy, thought volt meter was real, learn something every day.

Thanks
To the best of my knowledge the volt gauge is real, oil is not. Multimeter reader would be a good way to double check. Maybe the alternator/VR is going South.

[whitey]

volt gauge is real, checked with my scangauge2. try bumping rpm's up to 800 at idle, i think thats whats reccomended(i think i have my rpms set at 750, no issues as i was in the same situation as you today), but i also have would say your alternator might be on its way out. also, with the steeda u/d pulleys, there should have been 2 pulleys changed, the crank/harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley.

[Comin' in Hot]

mine have always been off, in all three of my marauders

[wickedmerc]

volt gauge is real, checked with my scangauge2. try bumping rpm's up to 800 at idle, i think thats whats reccomended(i think i have my rpms set at 750, no issues as i was in the same situation as you today), but i also have would say your alternator might be on its way out. also, with the steeda u/d pulleys, there should have been 2 pulleys changed, the crank/harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley.

That's what I was looking for...thanks man. I'll have to check that.

I'm certain the voltmeter is not fake. It's accuracy is questionable for sure.

Thanks guys.

[Comin' in Hot]

fake / questionable.... basically the same thing:lol:

[wickedmerc]

fake / questionable.... basically the same thing:lol:


Agreed! :D

I hope you are well my friend.

[ctrlraven]

Bump up to 800 rpms, at a stop or idle I would only run either front defroster or rear window defroster one at a time. That's what I have noticed at least with mine when I have lights and radio on. If I run both (front defroster and rear defroster) voltage drops to 13.0-13.2, with running just one or the other voltage remains the same at 13.7-13.8.

[fastblackmerc]

Bump up to 800 rpms, at a stop or idle I would only run either front defroster or rear window defroster one at a time. That's what I have noticed at least with mine when I have lights and radio on. If I run both (front defroster and rear defroster) voltage drops to 13.0-13.2, with running just one or the other voltage remains the same at 13.7-13.8.

Mine is at 800RPM in drive and I can run headlights, rear defroster, front defroster or A/C, radio, etc. No problems, charging over 14volts. I also did the big 3 upgrade.

Make sure ALL the connections are clean & tight... + & -.