Adjustable control arms

[Blk04MM]

I always read about rear upper and lower control arms here but don't recall any threads on any adjustable ones. Does anyone have an adjustable set on their mm?

What's the pros and cons of the standard solid set VS adjustable?

[ctrlraven]

I don't believe there are adjustable ones for our car probably since the car is a body-on-frame design. Mustangs have adjustable uppers but they are unibody design.

[Blk04MM]

I don't believe there are adjustable ones for our car probably since the car is a body-on-frame design. Mustangs have adjustable uppers but they are unibody design.

Ok... I was inquiring because I can have some made for my MM. Tubular is what I'm thinking. But wanted to know if there were any advantages in adjustable ones over non.

[Blk04MM]

Nobody with info?

[ajdereicup]

IIRC the aftermarket control arms for older panthers are adjustable. Only benefit I can think of is the fact they're adjustable. Incase you decide to lift that bad boy to put some 26 inch rims on it....

[REAL4WD]

I asked this question on a different forum before. and was told since 98+ panthers have watts link design that adjustable control arms would throw the suspension off.

the 92-97 panthers for a while had adjustable uppers available aftermarket, but no more. the adjustable were available due to the different design of suspension.

[Mr. Man]

With a solid axle I can't see the advantage to an adjustable CA. Now a CA that could be dampered like a shock would be something but probably mucho dinero to make.

[Blk04MM]

IIRC the aftermarket control arms for older panthers are adjustable. Only benefit I can think of is the fact they're adjustable. Incase you decide to lift that bad boy to put some 26 inch rims on it....

Noooooo lol


I asked this question on a different forum before. and was told since 98+ panthers have watts link design that adjustable control arms would throw the suspension off.

the 92-97 panthers for a while had adjustable uppers available aftermarket, but no more. the adjustable were available due to the different design of suspension.

Got cha


With a solid axle I can't see the advantage to an adjustable CA. Now a CA that could be dampered like a shock would be something but probably mucho dinero to make.

Got cha.


Thanks all

[chief455]

Adjustable control arms can help dial in driveshaft pinion angle if the rear body was lowered

[lifespeed]

Adjustable control arms can help dial in driveshaft pinion angle if the rear body was lowered

This is the correct answer. The reason for adjustable control arms is to change the pinion angle. The most likely reason to change the pinion angle is to correct it when the ride height is changed. Of course, the Watts link must not be made to bind up, so use of the adjustment could not range too far, more of a correction.

It is possible to measure the pinion angle, and might be a good move before considering fabricating adjustable arms. If it is off, then probably worth it.

[Mr. Man]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but lowering the MM for most people is just an adjustment of the ride height sensor which inflates the airbag to whatever height is chosen. Lowering an MM from the frame is a big project and I haven't seen anybody try this. God only knows what the wagon wheel crowd is doing to jack up their cars.

[lifespeed]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but lowering the MM for most people is just an adjustment of the ride height sensor which inflates the airbag to whatever height is chosen.

Yes, it is easy to do but rotates the pinion gear slightly. Ideally it should be parallel to the transmission output shaft.

[Mr. Man]

I doubt the angle moves substantially enough to make adjustable CA's performance effective on the avg. Joe's MM. I'd spend my money elsewhere if I were him.

[lifespeed]

I doubt the angle moves substantially enough to make adjustable CA's performance effective on the avg. Joe's MM. I'd spend my money elsewhere if I were him.

Probably. It can be measured (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-5020?seid=srese1&gclid=CLi7nYfNibwCFatxQgodiW0A Ig).

[chief455]

Probably. It can be measured (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-5020?seid=srese1&gclid=CLi7nYfNibwCFatxQgodiW0A Ig).
And should be measured after any body to rear axle distance alteration.

[Krytin]

I made these years ago when I lowered the car to a level stance - needed to tweak the pinion angle a little.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Control_Arms_004.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

[Limited360]

Hmmmm making me wonder if I should be concerned with how low my car is now on stock control arms. My diff is quiet and the car has been lowered for 10,000 miles or so, I am not to concerned though as I don't do many miles a year...

But this does have me thinking!

[Mr. Man]

I made these years ago when I lowered the car to a level stance - needed to tweak the pinion angle a little.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Control_Arms_004.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:;)Hey Paul :wave:, Did you drop your car in the back with the airbag adjustment or did you do a frame drop.

[Krytin]

Hey Paul :wave:, Did you drop your car in the back with the airbag adjustment or did you do a frame drop.

1 1/4 coil cut off in front and lowered the rear as far as the adjustment would go on the air ride sensor. That wound up w/frame rails level to the ground w/255-45 18's front/rear.

[chief455]

1 1/4 coil cut off in front and lowered the rear as far as the adjustment would go on the air ride sensor. That wound up w/frame rails level to the ground w/255-45 18's front/rear.
I'm curious what that did to your pinion angle -2, -3 degrees and you brought it back to a comfy -1 degree?

[Blk04MM]

I made these years ago when I lowered the car to a level stance - needed to tweak the pinion angle a little.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Control_Arms_004.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

Exactly what I was thinking of doing.

[chief455]

Another common fix for pinion angle tweaking is fabriction for relocation holes onto your lower control arm brackets at the rear axle. Pretty easy to do.
In my humble opinion you should check your actual pinion angle before getting all wrapped up in new adjustable parts. It may be within range of desired angle already.

[babbage]

There are 3 great aftermarket control arms for the MM (non-adjustable) but a BIG improvement over stock.

1. Sparta - site vendor control arms
2. Metco
3. Henious

[Krytin]

I'm curious what that did to your pinion angle -2, -3 degrees and you brought it back to a comfy -1 degree?

Actually, with anything more pliable than spherical rod ends (what I started with - much too noisy), you do want between -2 to -3 degrees. the idea is to have the angles on both ends of the drive shaft to be equal under load to have minimal vibration/uneven load on the pinion bearing/transmission tail shaft and universal joints.

When I lowered the car, the transmission was lower in relation to the pinion - effectively "nosing up" the pinion. I adjusted the centerlines of the pinion shaft and the transmission output shaft to be parallel. Since the bushings on the adjustable arms are the delrin ones from Sparta Performance and the uppers are the Lincoln Limo arms w/rubber bushings, I set the pinion between -1 and -2 degrees (down) so it would (hopefully) rotate up to 0 degrees under load. I don't have much driveline vibration so I guess I got it pretty close. The car has been run up to the 140+ mph range for brief periods w/no bad vibes.

[Bradley G]

The OEM Ford Limo uppers and boxed lower is an economical option as well!


There are 3 great aftermarket control arms for the MM (non-adjustable) but a BIG improvement over stock.

1. Sparta - site vendor control arms
2. Metco
3. Henious

[chief455]

Actually, with anything more pliable than spherical rod ends (what I started with - much too noisy), you do want between -2 to -3 degrees. the idea is to have the angles on both ends of the drive shaft to be equal under load to have minimal vibration/uneven load on the pinion bearing/transmission tail shaft and universal joints.

When I lowered the car, the transmission was lower in relation to the pinion - effectively "nosing up" the pinion. I adjusted the centerlines of the pinion shaft and the transmission output shaft to be parallel. Since the bushings on the adjustable arms are the delrin ones from Sparta Performance and the uppers are the Lincoln Limo arms w/rubber bushings, I set the pinion between -1 and -2 degrees (down) so it would (hopefully) rotate up to 0 degrees under load. I don't have much driveline vibration so I guess I got it pretty close. The car has been run up to the 140+ mph range for brief periods w/no bad vibes.
I use the same process and shoot for the same range (-1 to -2 degrees)
I have experienced tire shake during launch with anything steeper than -2 degrees, and found landing on -1 degree feels pretty good during launch and high speeds. As you stated - the objective is 0 degrees under load, so we build in some give. We have to consider the suspension and how much it will squat - every car is different.
Rebel that I am, in years past, I have lowered the tail housing of the transmission by altering the mount to effectively change my pinion angle.
Yes, that changes the entire engine/transmission angle, but as far as I know - they are at an angle for this very reason from the factory.

[Blk04MM]

Another common fix for pinion angle tweaking is fabriction for relocation holes onto your lower control arm brackets at the rear axle. Pretty easy to do.
In my humble opinion you should check your actual pinion angle before getting all wrapped up in new adjustable parts. It may be within range of desired angle already.

Will do. I want to lower her too but I'm on 255 on the front / 295 on rear


There are 3 great aftermarket control arms for the MM (non-adjustable) but a BIG improvement over stock.

1. Sparta - site vendor control arms
2. Metco
3. Henious

In Your opinion which do you like.


Actually, with anything more pliable than spherical rod ends (what I started with - much too noisy), you do want between -2 to -3 degrees. the idea is to have the angles on both ends of the drive shaft to be equal under load to have minimal vibration/uneven load on the pinion bearing/transmission tail shaft and universal joints.

When I lowered the car, the transmission was lower in relation to the pinion - effectively "nosing up" the pinion. I adjusted the centerlines of the pinion shaft and the transmission output shaft to be parallel. Since the bushings on the adjustable arms are the delrin ones from Sparta Performance and the uppers are the Lincoln Limo arms w/rubber bushings, I set the pinion between -1 and -2 degrees (down) so it would (hopefully) rotate up to 0 degrees under load. I don't have much driveline vibration so I guess I got it pretty close. The car has been run up to the 140+ mph range for brief periods w/no bad vibes.


The OEM Ford Limo uppers and boxed lower is an economical option as well!

I've been north of that and no bad vibes either