IAC question

[clintons4]

How often do these even fail? My car stumbles a bit and will die at an idle. However it is not every time the car is started. I am guessing the iac is suspect. Is it worth it to try and clean the bastard? Thoughts? I don't like throwing parts at something for no reason. :confused:

[jwibbity]

How often do these even fail? My car stumbles a bit and will die at an idle. However it is not every time the car is started. I am guessing the iac is suspect. Is it worth it to try and clean the bastard? Thoughts? I don't like throwing parts at something for no reason. :confused:

its pretty easy to remove and clean......it'll take less than an hour to do

[Pat]

Hope to see you tomorrow at Goodson's.
We can discuss this if you want.

[clintons4]

Hope to see you tomorrow at Goodson's.
We can discuss this if you want.

I will do my best to make it. I was trying to find the food network article on the place. I looked at their website and they claim the best chicken fried steak in Texas....:beer:

[clintons4]

its pretty easy to remove and clean......it'll take less than an hour to do


I am on that first thing in the AM. Didn't even know if it would be worth the time taking it off and wasting my time. I also bought a set of new plugs. I replaced them about 25k ago but I was told that the NGK TR6 don't last all that long unless they are the XI iridium plugs. :confused: I found a set of 8 for less than $19 bucks shipped so I figured its cheap maintenance.

[Mr. Man]

While you are changing out the plugs look closely at the COPs you may have a cracked one.

[clintons4]

While you are changing out the plugs look closely at the COPs you may have a cracked one.

I will check them out. Never had to replace any and they are original units with 79k. I have a check engine light but last time I scanned it I only got a code for lean bank 1 &2 but figured it was a vacuum leak somewhere. Wondering if now it will show misfire codes :confused: The scanner I have sucks.

[JohnE]

I'm chasing a similar problem. Tried a new IAC, new plugs and coils so far, but no luck. Running without the MAF or TPS (one at a time) did't effect it. Unplugging every fuel injector, one at a time idling does not effect it either.

Suspecting O2 sensor / exhaust leak issues with the SW exhaust. The exhaust has tiny leaks at every one of the joints, the way its built. My O2's are about 20,000 miles old, but I may throw another set on there just to be sure.


Car runs great doing everything everything else, but idling. It has an occasional stumble at idle, which sometimes causes it to die. Commanding a higher idle speed reduced it, but still there.

[clintons4]

I'm chasing a similar problem. Tried a new IAC, new plugs and coils so far, but no luck. Running without the MAF or TPS (one at a time) did't effect it. Unplugging every fuel injector, one at a time idling does not effect it either.

Suspecting O2 sensor / exhaust leak issues with the SW exhaust. The exhaust has tiny leaks at every one of the joints, the way its built. My O2's are about 20,000 miles old, but I may throw another set on there just to be sure.

I don't want to throw parts at it for no reason though. I will report back after I clean the iac. As far as my exhaust goes, I have had the SW exhaust for several years now. I don't think that would have anything to do with the problem. I do have the original O2 sensors on the car as well. Never thrown a code for that. Has anyone experienced a failure of an O2 without a code showing up?

[clintons4]

Well, I have cleaned the iac and will wait a few minutes before I start it up. I took the time to scan codes and now it is throwing codes for all kinds of crap.

P0171 - LEAN BANK1
P0174 - LEAN BANK2
P1131 - O2 SENSOR 1 BANK 1
P1151- HEATED O2
P1235 - FUEL PUMP OUT OF RANGE

HELP!

[RF Overlord]

My car stumbles a bit and will die at an idle.


P1235 - FUEL PUMP OUT OF RANGEPossible connection?

[tbone]

Disco the battery and see if the codes go away.

[Bruce Wayne]

replace fuel filter, check for faulty ground at front of engine

[clintons4]

Disco the battery and see if the codes go away.


Cleaned the iac real good. Don't really feel as if it helped much if at all. The fuel filter is probably has less than 8k miles of use.

I cleared the codes and I have driven probably 70 miles or so and no engine light yet. However the car will start, run, then start to idle rough and smell rich. Eventually after 3-4 minutes it will die as if the key was turned off. :confused::mad2:

[tbone]

Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. Clean the intake with throttle body cleaner.

[clintons4]

A member on another forum suggested the egr valve was suspect. I replaced the EGR and it is still doing the same thing. :confused: The codes are lean bank 1 & 2 but the drive cycle isn't complete so who knows what else will pop up.

[justbob]

If your ECT and IAT aren't within 5* of each other on cold starts, it will give attitude until warmed up. If it's bad enough, it will just flood itself out.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Just read some of your other posts. Have you verified correct fuel pressure at the rail?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Pat]

Clint;

The OBD2 system codes your car is throwing seems to indicate a progression.

The fuel pump out of range P1235 code may be the root cause of the other codes.

That is, the fuel pump code, P1235, is telling you the fuel pump is malfunctioning, that would then trigger the bank one and two lean condition, P0171 and P0174.

The 02 sensors, which are the last sensors in this chain would squawk because the combustion process was faulty, lean, in this case.

As justbob recommended, have your fuel pressures checked.

Fuel pumps are known to fail in this car.

Dump cable and get direct TV.

[clintons4]

Just read some of your other posts. Have you verified correct fuel pressure at the rail?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


That will be checked in the morning. I do have a fuel pressure tester. What should the correct pressure be?

[clintons4]

Clint;

The OBD2 system codes your car is throwing seems to indicate a progression.

The fuel pump out of range P1235 code may be the root cause of the other codes.

That is, the fuel pump code, P1235, is telling you the fuel pump is malfunctioning, that would then trigger the bank one and two lean condition, P0171 and P0174.

The 02 sensors, which are the last sensors in this chain would squawk because the combustion process was faulty, lean, in this case.

As justbob recommended, have your fuel pressures checked.

Fuel pumps are known to fail in this car.

Dump cable and get direct TV.

Funny I just saw one of those commercials for Direct TV. I will be checking the fuel pressure in the am. :beer:

[clintons4]

This morning I hooked up the fuel pressure tester and here is a quick video. Should this thing bounce around that much? Also seems like it dips pretty low when I let up on the throttle.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b306/clintonmomo/th_20140204_104453.jpg (http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b306/clintonmomo/20140204_104453.mp4)

^Photobucket video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K92SxmTrKmA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

^Youtube link

I also checked again for vacuum leaks and sprayed everything down with carb cleaner and no results. Visual inspection also didn't reveal any split boots, loose hoses etc.

:mad2:

[Zack]

I had almost all of those codes after installing a junkyard engine.
Turned out to be bad coils.

[jwibbity]

i was just going through fuel issues yesterday with my car not starting, after i got it started and datalogged the fuel pressure, i never dropped below 31psi, with an average or 39-40, and as high as 90 psi on startup and WOT, maybe the fuel pumps dying.....

or you can try venting the schrader valve on the fuel rail with it running, maybe its got trapped air in it.....??

[clintons4]

I had almost all of those codes after installing a junkyard engine.
Turned out to be bad coils.


Any way to test individual coils? Or is that even worth messing with from your experience would I just be better off swapping the whole set? They are factory units with right around 79k

[GreekGod]

...or you can try venting the schrader valve on the fuel rail with it running, maybe its got trapped air in it.....??
Do our MM's have a fuel return line? -- (ie: no air pockets?)

==============

[jwibbity]

Do our MM's have a fuel return line? -- (ie: no air pockets?)

==============
from what i looked at yesterday, no.....its a returnless system

the fuel line comes in on the passenger side fuel rail next to the fuel rail sensor thingy and then connects to the driver side with the shrader valve on the end of the driver side

[clintons4]

i was just going through fuel issues yesterday with my car not starting, after i got it started and datalogged the fuel pressure, i never dropped below 31psi, with an average or 39-40, and as high as 90 psi on startup and WOT, maybe the fuel pumps dying.....

or you can try venting the schrader valve on the fuel rail with it running, maybe its got trapped air in it.....??

Negative on air being trapped. Fuel pressure tester has a psi bleed off valve. Not even close to 90 on startup. What is the correct or avg fuel pressure seen with our car?

[Zack]

Any way to test individual coils? Or is that even worth messing with from your experience would I just be better off swapping the whole set? They are factory units with right around 79k

Without stress testing them on a FORD IDS machine, the only other way that works (sometimes) is to do a WOT blast from a stop all the way to 100mph.

That is the easiest way for the pcm to detect a bad coil.

[martyo]

Without stress testing them on a FORD IDS machine, the only other way that works (sometimes) is to do a WOT blast from a stop all the way to 100mph.

That is the easiest way for the pcm to detect a bad coil.

True, but we find we get less speeding tickets using our IDS machine. :P

[jwibbity]

Negative on air being trapped. Fuel pressure tester has a psi bleed off valve. Not even close to 90 on startup. What is the correct or avg fuel pressure seen with our car?

i do have a ford gt pump so i dont know if its different for a stocker....

[Pat]

Without stress testing them on a FORD IDS machine, the only other way that works (sometimes) is to do a WOT blast from a stop all the way to MPH.

That is the easiest way for the pcm to detect a bad coil.

That's how I found mine. The FLM shop was of no help, they could feel the car misfiring during their test drive but not one of them suspected bad Coil(s). I took my car to a general mechanic down the street, he determined the fuel delivery was good, with his pressure guages, road tested the car, bought a coil and substituted the new for the old, found three bad coils before he stopped and told me go buy eight coils, don't get anything made in china. Problem fixed that day.

FYI, didn't have to even get to 40 MPH before the problem reared it's ugly head.

[clintons4]

Without stress testing them on a FORD IDS machine, the only other way that works (sometimes) is to do a WOT blast from a stop all the way to 100mph.

That is the easiest way for the pcm to detect a bad coil.

Yea and good luck finding a place in the Houston area to do that...:bandit:

Where is the best place to buy OEM coils?

[Zack]

Yea and good luck finding a place in the Houston area to do that...:bandit:

Where is the best place to buy OEM coils?

Autonation Ford has 8 BNIB GT500 Coils for $215 (same as MM)
Cant beat that with a stick.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/autonation-ford-white-bear-lake-formerly-tousley-ford-320/

[clintons4]

Autonation Ford has 8 BNIB GT500 Coils for $215 (same as MM)
Cant beat that with a stick.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/autonation-ford-white-bear-lake-formerly-tousley-ford-320/

Found what I needed on their site. Thanks brotha. BTW I should get those grills to you soon. I feel like I never have time to do anything.

[JoeBoomz]

Unless the engine is throwing a specific cylinder misfire code, it is very difficult to pinpoint which coil in 8 is bad. If you have a spare one you can replace one at a time and then retest to see if the issue is resolved but this is very time consuming. For the few hundred it might save you a ton of time and gas (WOT blasts) to just replace the whole set.

BUT your original codes (lean condition on both banks) likely aren't caused by coil issues. But if Zack had the same codes and coils fixed it, well then there we have it.

[clintons4]

BUT your original codes (lean condition on both banks) likely aren't caused by coil issues. But if Zack had the same codes and coils fixed it, well then there we have it.

Lets freaking hope so. Got them 2 day air so expect and update on this pain in my ass soon.

If it still does the same thing after the new coils are installed, expect to see a set of good used coils in the classifieds soon. I am ready to drink beer...

[massacre]

At work I use the MODIS, if you do a continuity test with the engine running it will show all 8 coils and their activity in real time. When you put a load on the motor is when you will see which coils are the culprit. A lot of times while I'm there I just put new plugs in or at least check the plug gaps. If the gaps are huge they will misfire even with good COPs.

[clintons4]

At work I use the MODIS, if you do a continuity test with the engine running it will show all 8 coils and their activity in real time. When you put a load on the motor is when you will see which coils are the culprit. A lot of times while I'm there I just put new plugs in or at least check the plug gaps. If the gaps are huge they will misfire even with good COPs.


I just installed brand new plugs at the same time I swapped out the EGR. I made sure to gap them correctly. It was probably time for plugs anyhow. From what I have seen these ngk (non platinum) seem to only last for about 20-25k. I get them for $18 bucks shipped so its cheap PM anyhow.

[massacre]

Cool, you shouldn't have to worry about plugs then.

[clintons4]

Speaking of coils

Has anyone here tried these or know anyone who has?

http://www.weaponxperformance.com/weaponx/catalogv137/ford-boss-v8-4v-level-2-efx-direct-fire-super-coil-kit-p-368.html

Sounds like serious stuff but who knows there has been lots of snake oil with these coil bastards....:confused:

[GreekGod]

MSD or Accel are the best alternative choices for replacing OEM Ford coils.

=====

[clintons4]

Looks like someone else has the same issue with the fuel pressure bouncing around. He is throwing codes stating it is running rich, mine is the exact opposite. Found a couple of these videos looking through youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlXE3ktrh4Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JgvevAmlGY

I will have a new set of OEM coils arriving Friday. I am still confused on the fuel pressure jumping around like that. Any ideas? I do have a new Division X fuel pump that I could throw in but I don't want to do that now if I don't have to. :confused:

[clintons4]

I have about had it with this thing. :mad: I have replaced the coils with brand new ford units, new NGK plugs, checked fuel pressure and determined that is not an issue, and swapped EGR with a verified good used unit. I cleared the codes and fired it up. After idling for about 5-7 minutes....the damn thing died again. Its as if the key was shut off. No sputtering etc. I fired it back up after that then took it out for several WOT blasts and drove for a couple miles after that. No codes, again the cycle is not complete yet. Once I returned from the drive I let it idle, it died again after several minutes.

[Zack]

Have you wiggled the MAF connector when the car is running?
My own car was doing some weird stuff once and I had a bad connection in the pigtail. Car would die when I wiggled it the right way.

Its beginning to sound electrical. Check for the wire chafing problem behind the drivers side cam cover. There are also spots in the harness behind the bumper that can collect water and corrode wires away.

[GreekGod]

I have about had it with this thing. :mad: I have replaced the coils with brand new ford units, new NGK plugs, checked fuel pressure and determined that is not an issue, and swapped EGR with a verified good used unit. I cleared the codes and fired it up. After idling for about 5-7 minutes....the damn thing died again. Its as if the key was shut off. No sputtering etc. I fired it back up after that then took it out for several WOT blasts and drove for a couple miles after that. No codes, again the cycle is not complete yet. Once I returned from the drive I let it idle, it died again after several minutes.

Have you used any isopropyl alcohol in the fuel tank?

[clintons4]

Have you wiggled the MAF connector when the car is running?
My own car was doing some weird stuff once and I had a bad connection in the pigtail. Car would die when I wiggled it the right way.

Its beginning to sound electrical. Check for the wire chafing problem behind the drivers side cam cover. There are also spots in the harness behind the bumper that can collect water and corrode wires away.

I will check the maf connection. It seems a bit tight on the JLT. Maybe that's the issue. I will also check for chafing on the harness. I would suspect that corrosion behind the bumper not as likely since no salt has ever seen the car. I always keep everything clean but who knows. Right now I am installing toolboxes and racks in my work truck so it will be a while before I can get on the Marauder.

[tbone]

I put a new intake manifold in my Town Car last year. Took it for a ride and it ran like crap. I was very upset until I realized I forgot to plug in the MAF. Try unplugging it and see if it runs the same way.

[clintons4]

Have you used any isopropyl alcohol in the fuel tank?



Negative. When and how would that happen? Is it added to gasoline in areas?:confused:

[whitey]

Negative. When and how would that happen? Is it added to gasoline in areas?:confused:

Hes thinking there might be water in the fuel, and i guess adding alcohol would remidy this...idk. however usually water in the tank would cause the car to either not run, or poorly run at all points. Good luck with this crap man, i feel for you. Just a thought, if your running lean, would a injector thats stuck shut or extremely clogged do this? If its just clogged enough to the point where fuel can spit out at 50psi, but not at 40 or 30 psi. The reason i say this is because ive seen at work where pipe fittings leaked at 100 psi, but at 50 psi they didnt leak at all. I hate to put you on a wild goose chase, but maybe a bottle of techron would help clean it up if that's the issue.

[clintons4]

Hes thinking there might be water in the fuel, and i guess adding alcohol would remidy this...idk. however usually water in the tank would cause the car to either not run, or poorly run at all points. Good luck with this crap man, i feel for you. Just a thought, if your running lean, would a injector thats stuck shut or extremely clogged do this? If its just clogged enough to the point where fuel can spit out at 50psi, but not at 40 or 30 psi. The reason i say this is because ive seen at work where pipe fittings leaked at 100 psi, but at 50 psi they didnt leak at all. I hate to put you on a wild goose chase, but maybe a bottle of techron would help clean it up if that's the issue.

I get what you are trying to say. At this point I am willing to try anything. I may go get a bottle of techron. I have to go to FLAPS and get oil change stuff anyhow. I doubt the whole water in the fuel issue, I have used the fuel that was in the tank and have new fuel in it now. Burned through almost a 1/4 tank this am on my WOT blasts. :D

[clintons4]

Well after driving 79 miles the codes have started coming back. Showing lean bank 1 and 2 but it still shows some of the monitors are not ready. So basically no change, coils were good. :mad2:

and...I posted the coils in the classifieds. In case anyone was interested in a cheap set of good coils.

[Zack]

Fwiw I'm sorry for making the coil suggestion and it didn't pan out. I really had all those codes you have and it was the coils

[GreekGod]

Negative. When and how would that happen? Is it added to gasoline in areas?:confused:

Houston is high humidity -- water gets in your gasoline from condensation --

"Isopropyl alcohol is a major ingredient in "gas dryer" fuel additives (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_additive). In significant quantities, water (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water) is a problem in fuel tanks, as it separates from the gasoline, and can freeze in the supply lines at cold temperatures. It does not remove water from gasoline; rather, the alcohol solubilizes water in gasoline. Once soluble (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soluble), water does not pose the same risk as insoluble water as it will no longer accumulate in the supply lines and freeze."

see here:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Heet-12-oz-ISO-gas-dryer-and-antifreeze/_/N-262d?itemIdentifier=136368_0_0 _

[clintons4]

Fwiw I'm sorry for making the coil suggestion and it didn't pan out. I really had all those codes you have and it was the coils

It's all good brotha. :beer:

[Pat]

Clint: here are some links for each of the codes that show on your scan tool.
P0171/0174 www.obd-codes.com/p0171 (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171) ( or 0174)

P1131 http://engine-codes.com/p1131_Ford.html

P1151 www.obd-codes/p1151_ford (http://www.obd-codes/p1151_ford)

P1235 http://engine-codes.com/p1235_ford.html

There is an underscore between the last code digit and the word ford. IE p1235_ford
the underlined link hides it.

Are you still throwing the same codes? the first three all mean a lean condition, the last code means a fuel pump drive model didn't get a signal or the signal was incorrect from the PCM. I think this one is not really valid. Look at the trouble analysis of the first three codes.

Pat

[clintons4]

Clint: here are some links for each of the codes that show on your scan tool.
P0171/0174 www.obd-codes.com/p0171 (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171) ( or 0174)

P1131 http://engine-codes.com/p1131_Ford.html

P1151 www.obd-codes/p1151_ford (http://www.obd-codes/p1151_ford)

P1235 http://engine-codes.com/p1235_ford.html

There is an underscore between the last code digit and the word ford. IE p1235_ford
the underlined link hides it.



Are you still throwing the same codes? the first three all mean a lean condition, the last code means a fuel pump drive model didn't get a signal or the signal was incorrect from the PCM. I think this one is not really valid. Look at the trouble analysis of the first three codes.

Pat

Too soon to tell. It still shows lean ban 1 and lean bank 2. It has not yet completed a drive cycle. I will see when what it comes up with when complete.

[clintons4]

I changed the oil today and checked for chaffed harnesses etc. I also wiggled the maf connection and no avail. Same deal. This thing is pissing me off.

I am going to go get a bottle of Techron and throw it in the tank and drive around today and see if there are any changes or new codes after the drive cycle.

[clintons4]

What should compression be on a stock motor? I am going to test that today.

[tbone]

I changed the oil today and checked for chaffed harnesses etc. I also wiggled the maf connection and no avail. Same deal. This thing is pissing me off.

I am going to go get a bottle of Techron and throw it in the tank and drive around today and see if there are any changes or new codes after the drive cycle.

Did you spray some WD40 on the MAF connector or try driving with it disconnected to see if anything changes?

My power door lock switch stopped working. WD40 and all is well. Just a thought.

[clintons4]

Did you spray some WD40 on the MAF connector or try driving with it disconnected to see if anything changes?

My power door lock switch stopped working. WD40 and all is well. Just a thought.

No, I wiggled the connection and checked the wires for damage or loose pins. None found.

I added a bottle of Techron to the tank and I drove the car around 20 miles or so and it has still not completed the drive cycle. It also still shows lean 1 & 2 and will die when left to idle for 5 minutes or so. :mad2:

[L.Mark]

Not to send you chasing your tail, but when mine was acting up it would run normal with the MAF unplugged and, die at idle, not start, jerk, you name it. But I had a wiring harness nearly cut in half in the driver's fender. This caused the CEL to nearly stay on and always read IAC or MAF was bad...it was due to said wires arcing off the inner fender...

[Pat]

You know Curless found a similar problem with a members cronic malfunctioning car.
He had the front end off before finding that a hole was drilled into the inner fender and cut into a wiring harness. Great find and problem solved. Kudo's to Curless.

[tbone]

No, I wiggled the connection and checked the wires for damage or loose pins. None found.

I added a bottle of Techron to the tank and I drove the car around 20 miles or so and it has still not completed the drive cycle. It also still shows lean 1 & 2 and will die when left to idle for 5 minutes or so. :mad2:

Well, my power lock switch stayed inop after wiggling it and unplugging/plugging in but WD40 got it working again. Give it a "shot".

I would disconnect a bunch of your connectors and spray them. Can't hurt.

Also, the connectors on the coils and fuel injectors get brittle and the clips that hold them tight break off causing the connector to back off a little. I have a few connectors that I had to zip tie to stay fully seated.

[L.Mark]

You know Curless found a similar problem with a members cronic malfunctioning car.
He had the front end off before finding that a hole was drilled into the inner fender and cut into a wiring harness. Great find and problem solved. Kudo's to Curless.


That was me...

...and yes cudos, I would not have the car today if not for Chris...fact...

[JohnE]

I'm chasing a similar problem. Trying a few things, when I make progress I'll let you know. Plugs, coils, IAC Valve did not help. Current try is new front O2 senors. See if the idle dip comes back after a few days.

[clintons4]

I'm chasing a similar problem. Trying a few things, when I make progress I'll let you know. Plugs, coils, IAC Valve did not help. Current try is new front O2 senors. See if the idle dip comes back after a few days.


Let me know if you make any progress on yours. I will do the same. :beer:

[clintons4]

That was me...

...and yes cudos, I would not have the car today if not for Chris...fact...


I saw the thread on that. I have not drilled anything on my car in that area. :confused: Is it possible for the same area of the harness to get damaged from chaffing?

[Pat]

Ckint;

I don't recall anything being said about plugged or malfunctioning injectors in this thread. IIRC the injectors don't have a seperate fault circuit , fuel delivery problems are detected by the O2 sensors. Clean, check, swap or replaced injectors in pairs on opposite banks if possible.

Pat

[L.Mark]

I saw the thread on that. I have not drilled anything on my car in that area. :confused: Is it possible for the same area of the harness to get damaged from chaffing?

Yes, there were actually two places. One where the idiot drilled through the harness and one several inches before that were rubbed through to the actual wires...

[clintons4]

I really hate the thought of having to chase down some chaffed wires...

http://memecrunch.com/meme/11TW5/ain-t-nobody-got-time-fo-dat/image.png

[clintons4]

Ckint;

I don't recall anything being said about plugged or malfunctioning injectors in this thread. IIRC the injectors don't have a seperate fault circuit , fuel delivery problems are detected by the O2 sensors. Clean, check, swap or replaced injectors in pairs on opposite banks if possible.

Pat


I will do that after the compression test. I hope I get home early tomorrow and get a chance to do it.

[massacre]

I really hate the thought of having to chase down some chaffed wires...

http://memecrunch.com/meme/11TW5/ain-t-nobody-got-time-fo-dat/image.png

I have to do it at work all the time, it can be a real PITA. But a good test light and meter can save some time or a power probe is even better. if you know which circuits are suspect, do the wiggle test with a meter or test light. Power probe is nice because you can power stuff up to test and also ground stuff too.

[L.Mark]

I really hate the thought of having to chase down some chaffed wires...

http://memecrunch.com/meme/11TW5/ain-t-nobody-got-time-fo-dat/image.png

Feel you pain brother...Chris started at the beginning with the ICA CEL always showing and the cylcing of the fuel pump...which led to tests that showed there was constant current being applied instead of just when the key is on and/or car is running...try to see and find a commonality between what's all going on and it may help with a starting point...or you could give Chris a call and take it to him...he has big time experience with Gremlins...and I aint talkin about Jerry or Zack this time...:P:P:P

[clintons4]

I have to do it at work all the time, it can be a real PITA. But a good test light and meter can save some time or a power probe is even better. if you know which circuits are suspect, do the wiggle test with a meter or test light. Power probe is nice because you can power stuff up to test and also ground stuff too.


I had a power probe that was stolen from me. Loved that thing. If I don't find anything with a compression test, looks like this will be the time to replace it.

[massacre]

I despise thieves. And tool thieves are the worst.

[clintons4]

I despise thieves. And tool thieves are the worst.


Yea that was around 2010 along with the power probe was a Snap On Solus. Then just a little over a year ago, my garage was broken into and all my flank drive wrenches, snap on socket sets, compressor, dewalt compound saw, delta table saw were all stolen. shitbag insurance company denied the claim. So now my premium has increased because of the claim even though there was no payout. :mad2: If I didn't have bad luck, I would have none.

[JohnE]

When you're car almost dies, does the Alternator red light on the dash come on? I see this most of the time when mine almost dies. It also can idle with less power than normal without the light on too.

So far new O2 sensors did not correct the issue, just a slight improvement. I don't have a catch can on the PCV, so there's a bit of oil that gets built up in the lower manifold sometimes.

[massacre]

Yea that was around 2010 along with the power probe was a Snap On Solus. Then just a little over a year ago, my garage was broken into and all my flank drive wrenches, snap on socket sets, compressor, dewalt compound saw, delta table saw were all stolen. shitbag insurance company denied the claim. So now my premium has increased because of the claim even though there was no payout. :mad2: If I didn't have bad luck, I would have none.

Holy crap! That is real bad man, sorry to hear about that. I have tons of Snap On tools, flank drive plus wrenches 1/4" to 1-1/4" impact guns, etc and if they were ever stolen I would be completey screwed as I use them every day for my job. And insurance companies suck too biggest rip-off artists in the world.
Hopefully you have beefed up secutiry at your house, sounds like Houston has high crime!

[L.Mark]

When you're car almost dies, does the Alternator red light on the dash come on? I see this most of the time when mine almost dies. It also can idle with less power than normal without the light on too.

So far new O2 sensors did not correct the issue, just a slight improvement. I don't have a catch can on the PCV, so there's a bit of oil that gets built up in the lower manifold sometimes.


Yes, been there many times...

[clintons4]

When you're car almost dies, does the Alternator red light on the dash come on? I see this most of the time when mine almost dies. It also can idle with less power than normal without the light on too.

So far new O2 sensors did not correct the issue, just a slight improvement. I don't have a catch can on the PCV, so there's a bit of oil that gets built up in the lower manifold sometimes.


No, It as if the car was just shut off with the key. :confused: I am running original O2 sensors. I don't see any way possible all four would crap out at the same time so I kinda ruled that out. Anyone experienced them all going out at the same time Marauder or any other vehicle?

[clintons4]

Holy crap! That is real bad man, sorry to hear about that. I have tons of Snap On tools, flank drive plus wrenches 1/4" to 1-1/4" impact guns, etc and if they were ever stolen I would be completey screwed as I use them every day for my job. And insurance companies suck too biggest rip-off artists in the world.
Hopefully you have beefed up secutiry at your house, sounds like Houston has high crime!


Its not really that bad where I am at now. I did install a full camera system that covers everything.

[justbob]

No, It as if the car was just shut off with the key. :confused: I am running original O2 sensors. I don't see any way possible all four would crap out at the same time so I kinda ruled that out. Anyone experienced them all going out at the same time Marauder or any other vehicle?


Mine did that off and on for over a year. Turned out being the fuel pump and it was next to impossible to diagnose.

Gave up and threw one in and problem gone..

Same as you fine one minute, then key off symptoms. Pull over and wait for a few seconds and it would fire right up and be fine for a week, month, you never knew.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[clintons4]

Mine did that off and on for over a year. Turned out being the fuel pump and it was next to impossible to diagnose.

Gave up and threw one in and problem gone..

Same as you fine one minute, then key off symptoms. Pull over and wait for a few seconds and it would fire right up and be fine for a week, month, you never knew.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I would much rather have to replace a fuel pump over heads or shortblock. I have been poking around the interwebs about 4v compression tests etc. seems that many people have issues with low compression on left cyl head. with their Mach1's. I have not seen them describe this exact situation I am experiencing. Then again doing that is like trying to diagnose yourself with WebMD and well, if I did that I am sure I would be dead already.

I did buy a compression tester and should have time tomorrow unless I get called out for work. Since I did get a nice high quality Harbor Freight precision instrument I will be looking for the delta in numbers not the number itself. If for some odd reason the gauge on this thing is "accurate" what number should I be looking for? I have seen people say anywhere from 175-210 :confused:

I will be sure to post results either way.

[justbob]

Seems to me I average 218. As long as they are around 10% of each other. Keep in mind you mention having a condition that comes and goes. Anything wrong compression test wise would be a mechanical failure that wouldn't go away.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[clintons4]

Well I did the compression test and it's not looking good

cyl 5 125 cyl 1 135
cyl 6 110 cyl 2 132
cyl 7 125 cyl 3 130
cyl 8 125 cyl 4 132

I know these numbers are way low across the board. Even if you factory in a POS tool/gauge it looks bad. I checked cyl 6 again with oil and results are the same. Leads me to believe there is a problem with the valve(s) but I have not had any funny noises like a dropped valve seat or anything. The car never got hot or anything and it does not use any coolant so....any insight will help.

What I am seeing is that I have two options at this point:

1. Sell for $8

2. Pull motor and build the crap out of it....

Let me know what you guys think.

[Zack]

Something is wrong with the tester, or the way you set it up.

Im not buying those numbers at all.

[clintons4]

Something is wrong with the tester, or the way you set it up.

Im not buying those numbers at all.


I had to use some adapter on the tester. The hose that I had would not seat in the threads. It seemed as if the threaded body was too wide to get low enough.

[Zack]

I had to use some adapter on the tester. The hose that I had would not seat in the threads. It seemed as if the threaded body was too wide to get low enough.

I posted earlier in the thread I had to modify my Harbor Freight Tester.
I forgot what I did, but it was a PITA

[clintons4]

I posted earlier in the thread I had to modify my Harbor Freight Tester.
I forgot what I did, but it was a PITA

I have the harbor freight unit, But I had to use adapters from another kit. I went and rented the VatoZone loaner. It is broken and the gauge does not work at all. I left the adapter/hose in the cyl and just switched gauges. The needle wouldn't even move.

[justbob]

Did you open the throttle body when cranking?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[clintons4]

Did you open the throttle body when cranking?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Yes sir. :alone:

[justbob]

Yup, leaky tool.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[clintons4]

Yup, leaky tool.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


I kinda figured that. However I am still concerned with the number cylinder 6 is reading. I checked it twice, It was still consistently low.

[Zack]

I kinda figured that. However I am still concerned with the number cylinder 6 is reading. I checked it twice, It was still consistently low.

Thats not a big enough difference to worry. It could be as simple as a tiny carbon deposit on the valve sealing surface.

[JohnE]

*Edit: insulating the fuel lines did not fix my idle stumble/dieing issues. Still looking for the root.

I have an idea that may be contributing to this, but it's only a guess. Now that the headers have a little age, the ceramic coating isn't helping as much as new. I noticed that the temperature under the hood is extremely warm. This can't be good for fuel temperature running through uninsulated fuel lines from the frame. I suspect that at idle, the fuel temperature may be an issue. High heat in close proximity to slow moving fuel.

After wrapping the fuel and evap lines with fiberglass insulation, I've seen a little improvement. May be coincidence, may not. My engine still has occasional stumble issues, but there is an improvement so far.



john

[Zack]

I have an idea that may be contributing to this, but it's only a guess. Now that the headers have a little age, the ceramic coating isn't helping as much as new. I noticed that the temperature under the hood is extremely warm. This can't be good for fuel temperature running through uninsulated fuel lines from the frame. I suspect that at idle, the fuel temperature may be an issue. High heat in close proximity to slow moving fuel.

After wrapping the fuel and evap lines with fiberglass insulation, I've seen a little improvement. May be coincidence, may not. My engine still has occasional stumble issues, but there is an improvement so far.



john

The Marauder pcm raises fuel pressure if the IAT's go up, to avoid vapor lock.
It would never even be an issue unless you were sitting still with the engine running. Even then, well...look at cop cars. Never a problem

[RacerX]

The Marauder pcm raises fuel pressure if the IAT's go up, to avoid vapor lock.
It would never even be an issue unless you were sitting still with the engine running. Even then, well...look at cop cars. Never a problem
That's what saved my butt when the intercooler pump relay fizzled AT THE TRACK! Lower plenum charge temp jit 210, PCM pulled timing down to 8 degrees and fuel pressure went up. Saved my engine! :D

[justbob]

The Marauder pcm raises fuel pressure if the IAT's go up, to avoid vapor lock.

It would never even be an issue unless you were sitting still with the engine running. Even then, well...look at cop cars. Never a problem


Or if your blower is pullied to the max and your in Hotlanta... In traffic... :(


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[JohnE]

*Edit: insulating the fuel lines did not fix my idle stumble/dieing issues. Still looking for the root.


The factory programming uses the MAF temperature sensor for ambient, plus modeling to estimate the fuel rail temperature. My IAT is now in the blower lower manifold and ambient programming modified accordingly. Keep in mind that the long tube headers radiate a lot more heat than the factory iron logs do. I wouldn't chalk this up as automatically taken care of by the computer.

Simply commanding more fuel pressure at low flow rates didn't help, I tried that a few months ago.


Not saying fuel temp is my issue, just testing for now. After all it is a 11 year old car. many things could go wrong.



*This would not ever be "vapor lock" because the fuel pump is in the tank. Fuel can still boil in the lines and rail though.

[clintons4]

Well I am still experiencing the same issue with the car. However now it seems to have a slight surge to it when idling now. Is there some secret hidden vacuum line that I have not located? I sprayed the crap out of it around the intake. No luck. :censor: Another thing that seems to be worth mentioning is the fact that the computer seems like it won't finish a drive cycle. I have driven over 300 miles with a combo of city & highway. It still shows some systems as "not ready"

[JohnE]

Shop vac blowing into the manifold sure helps locate leaks.


I discovered oil coated hoses behind the blower. After a little cleaning and troubleshooting, found that there is a small gap in the RTV seal of the blower plate. This wasn't a large leak, but it couldn't have been helping things.

As a temporary fix, I've put a coating on RTV outside of the effected area. Time will tell if the RTV can stand up to boost pressure (~13psi). It should seal under vacuum, even if it works as a check valve.

John

[clintons4]

Shop vac blowing into the manifold sure helps locate leaks.


I discovered oil coated hoses behind the blower. After a little cleaning and troubleshooting, found that there is a small gap in the RTV seal of the blower plate. This wasn't a large leak, but it couldn't have been helping things.

As a temporary fix, I've put a coating on RTV outside of the effected area. Time will tell if the RTV can stand up to boost pressure (~13psi). It should seal under vacuum, even if it works as a check valve.

John

I'm not supercharged so this wouldn't apply to my vehicle. Probably going to start digging into it this weekend again. Any info would help.
Thanks

[Zack]

Shop vac blowing into the manifold sure helps locate leaks.


I discovered oil coated hoses behind the blower. After a little cleaning and troubleshooting, found that there is a small gap in the RTV seal of the blower plate. This wasn't a large leak, but it couldn't have been helping things.

As a temporary fix, I've put a coating on RTV outside of the effected area. Time will tell if the RTV can stand up to boost pressure (~13psi). It should seal under vacuum, even if it works as a check valve.

John

Have you verified with absolute certainly your lower manifold clears the cooling mod?

[vegasmarauder]

I have found the upper manifold gasket will start to leak in the area right next to the EGR valve. This area seems to get very hot and the gasket degrades enough to cause a small vacuum leak. I have found 2 MM's that had this issue. When you pull the top off and the gasket out you can see the silicone is gone in that area. I was going to take a picture of it, but tossed the old ones out.

I find it by spraying carb cleaner right in that area and you will see/feel the idle change slightly.

[clintons4]

I have found the upper manifold gasket will start to leak in the area right next to the EGR valve. This area seems to get very hot and the gasket degrades enough to cause a small vacuum leak. I have found 2 MM's that had this issue. When you pull the top off and the gasket out you can see the silicone is gone in that area. I was going to take a picture of it, but tossed the old ones out.

I find it by spraying carb cleaner right in that area and you will see/feel the idle change slightly.


I will give it another shot. Any ideas on the drive cycle issue?

[jaywish]

Did you use a vacuum gauge anywhere along the line?

[clintons4]

No I didn't. Is there a good or more preferred way of doing this?

Also, if anyone is reading this for the first time since the post was bumped I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas. I know it is 8 pages of stuff to read/ scan over but I am really losing my mind with this issue.

[clintons4]

Hump day bump. Anyone have any more ideas? As stated I noticed my scanner is taking forever to communicate with the car. I tested the scanner on another car to verify it isn't just the scanner itself. It still stumbles and dies after idling for a few min and will not complete a drive cycle.